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hi men, here is a few pics of my son-in-laws C161 i just fixed. i don't know how many of these cracked/ broken seat support areas i have fixed. certainly a weak link and a bad design of the late C series and 3,4 and 500 series. my hobart welder sure came in handy. thanks to my buddy phil for the pics. mike in mass.

hi men, i ventilated the belt guard AND the support bracket to hopefully avoid the dreaded valve seat issue. i had the belt guard sandblasted and powder coated. please note the 8 inch deck gauge wheels. i can cut very high. thanks again to my buddy phil for the pics. mike in mass. t

Well, after a lot of time and money, I finally have a site I am comfortable with. Included is a section called "The Yard" which includes pictures of every tractor we have in the yard right now. I am still working on it, so not everything is posted yet, but I have all the Cub cadet and Wheel Horse tractors on there. For members or visitors of RedSquare, here is a one time use coupon for an additional 10% off any order over $25.00. This coupon works with the current 7.5% discount applied to any order on our site over $25.00. That's a total of 17.5% discount on one order. Coupon Code: CC0RMYU73C Coupon expires 10/31/2019 Good for one time use only on orders over $25.00. www.joesoutdoorpower.com Thanks and please provide feedback on the new site.

Just finished up on this one! Here's a couple shots of the interior that we build.

It is for a old volvo amazon and no i just bought the pipe for the muffler and i bought a stainlessteel bend. this is how it got, maybe the radius of the bend should have been smaller so the muffler could have been closer to the hood but it is what it is.... parts was less than $50 so im happy with it. At least its better than before

As stated on a previous post my oil pressure light keeps flashing regardless of everything I have tried. Rather than being worried about the actual oil pressure I elected to install an actual gauge along with also a hydro temperature gauge. Quite a bit of work but worth it. Oil pressure is actually much higher than expected with 25 at 1500 RPM going to about 59 at full throttle. Having a bit of an issue with the hydro temperature sensor. Was working fine but suddenly no reading. Will replace that shortly.

6 brake light bulbs, 2 still working. Seems auto manufacturers could give another dummy light for a blown bulb... In my mind, brake lights are much more important than turn signals. I use my turn signal, but if it was out, someone is just inconvenienced... not in my back seat.

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You don't. When they go bad, buy replacement bearings # 103119 for about $25 each on Ebay...or sometimes $60 for a set of three. Just press out the old bearing and press a new one in its place.

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Well, turns out the guy that was going to look at it was looking for a project for his 2 sons, and they both decided that they want a ford instead (some peoples kinds, right? LOL). I've done a bit more work to it the last few days and I'm starting to like the truck. I might call and put insurance on it tomorrow, put antique plates on it (Like $60 for 5 years registration and no inspection) and sort it out some. If It runs and drives good, I might just have to keep it!

Its really simple. Just a bit labor intensive due to the difficulty in removing the engine shroud on the Onan. Once that is removed you just need to remove the old sending unit above filter and replace it with the one that comes with gauge. The new one is substantially wider than old one and would not thread in correctly since it interferes with filter housing , so a two inch nipple was necessary to extend it past that point. Then its just a matter of placing a wire from it to the gauge. The second wire in the old one (blue I believe) just needs to be grounded so hour meter works when key is turned. Then the gauge itself needs to be grounded (black wire) and red wire connected to power source activated by switch. I merely tapped it into the 15AMP fuse which is switched that way. The temperature gauge very simple also. Merely replace sending unit with new one and use same wire. Find the wire in back of dash (dark green) and tap into it to gauge. The other two wires same as the other gauge. I am not a fan of the dummy lights and the oil pressure one was worrying me. This way there are no questions whether there is pressure or not. One can foresee a problem before its too late, from both the oil pressure and hydro temperature.

Ugh.......

SWMBO would have a hissy fit if she saw one of those on the window.

I see the chickens decided discretion the better part of valour and kept out of the way.

Nice to know there are repro parts out there. So, reverse rubber for sure... I don't see where I'm missing a foot rest. The resto's I've seen just have a foot peg on the left side. My right side has the foot pedal that's attached to the drive lever, and a foot peg. It didn't take much to get this running. Everything seems to work. I did put a set of tires on it, inc. different / slightly larger front wheels. Engine is not orig. and is a 1969 9hp Briggs. I'll likely do a full resto on this, not overly concerned w/ originality, but will want it to at least look period correct. I'll somehow use a Kabota replacement muffler like on the Yardman hot rod mower as I really don't like a lot of noise. Color I envision is a light mint pearl (like the inside of an Andes Mint) with cream accent for wheels, seat, engine, jackshaft. I have the rear fenders as well.

Oh, man... I hate to spend this much $ on one but this isn't too far away in NH. $150 though... I'm tempted... Edit:...Well, I just made an offer.

EB just a thought, put aside your wish to purchase a Mig and use that $$$ to get a plasma cutter, I have the Chinese Cut 70 with high frequency start, the consumables are reasonably priced and you can get some mileage from them by keeping the amperage adjusted only to cut the thickness of metal your working with. You need a decent compressor that will supply a constant supply of air at 60 psi, at times I had to wait on my 5 hp on an 80 gallon tank to catch up when cutting up scrap machinery. Half and three quarter inch material no problem, severing a solid steel shaft 2" in diameter requires a bit of whittling. large nuts rusted solidly in place I slice each side vertically then the halves are easy to remove. Preparing a bevel or an angle on metal to be welded, filled in then with a finish pass is a snap. Eighty percent of welding is spent with preparation.

Did some more work today. Ran all new fuel line and put 2 fuel filters on and cleaned the tank the best I could. You should have seen the disaster that was the inside of that tank. Hoping to grab a new grommet and pingel from the dealer tomorrow. Once I have that I can drive it totally under its own power. I plan to add the 48" deck that's on my C-160 and mow with it. I'll be interested to see how the Onan twin compares to the 16hp Kohler. 416-H Running

My temp light comes on after running for 30 seconds. It can't seriously be overheating that fast. I turn it off once the light comes on, just in case. Could it be a bad sensor or something? Where would I find it if so, and how might I check it? Tried searching, but couldn't find anything specific. I'm pretty new to small engines. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much!

Don't remember how many times a car would come into the shop with no headlights and BOTH bulbs ended up being blown. ( My wife had a Volvo that would tell you who was sleeping with who as you drove by a house)!

A simple one. Add a WH hood and fender pan plus some other small parts. I've seen plenty of "Custom Wheel Horses" at the show which have less WH parts on them.

Thing is a beast!

Yesterday the Belt arrives. firstly i try in a hurry to insert, and wonder Why it will not Fit. Firstly i doubt i‘m made a fail in measuring, but it was allway‘s a good idea, to take some Picts before you disassemble a thing. a simply Fail while wrong insert clears up, where was my mistake. at later night, i review my Picts and found one, where the Belt is shown. I insert it in right direction and the mower fits. i wonder a bit because of stiff spanner, so i get some Gease and bring it back to work. Maybe this was the reason, while the old belt Lasts that quick. However, i try the Mower firstly on slighter grass, later in higher grass. Yes, it works well again. After harvesting my last potatoes, i decide to clean up the Field, but i didn‘t want to do it manually. So i develop a Stupid idea, Why nor use the Wheelhorse, as long as Mowerdeck was out for Cleaning. That was the Rest i can keep for myself.... 😎 Because the neighbours ask for a Try. I‘m proud, they ask me, so it give me the feeling my harvested Result can not be Bad. i spend some and keep for us just 3,5 Kilos. The complete Harvest was now all together 28Kilo by inserted 5 Kilo. Anyway, Than i search for few Quickstraps and bound my Manual Tiller onto my FEL. So i can do the Job while having some Seattime on my beloved Horse. I wanna move the Beast, while it‘s prepared for Road Approval. Done as Sayed, i fiddeling it onto. and it looks funny, but i tryed it if this will work. i did a small Video, to show how it works, think i have to build a simple Leversystem, that i can mount it quickly and stiffer, but it does it‘s work better than i expected. i needs several passes, because our Soil iv very clayley. but after 5 Passes, i satisfied with the Result. 865C2EB0-9104-44E1-9241-0534B8D67221.MOV

Since recently acquiring one myself... I'm definitely digging them Panzers too.

Thank you. Feeling better everyday. Ordered the bearings and the shift fork. They should be here soon. I did not want to start taking everything out of it until I had the parts in front of me. With some luck I wont find anything else broken under all that grease and can put it all back together again. Now I have to start looking for the Bennoite. Going to need a lot by the looks of things.

Have fun! The most satisfying thing I’ve ever done is building my FEL after I “taught” myself to weld.

Good points Ryan.. I think if you practice abit EB you will do fine with what you scored. Heard tell the old timers did fine farmer welds with one of those with a coat hanger for stick with a wash of CO2 from a fire extinguisher. Not makin that up just what I heard. I guess the only question I would have is flux coated sticks were suposed to be kept in an oven or something to keep moisture out of them? What say you on that pro welders?

Well being a welder I will agree with all of you...everything has a good and bad but if I was you I would do a mig it will do everything and more that you'd want to do..gas mig to me is the way to go alot less mess weld is alot cleaner..I here great things about the welders at HB it's mig, tig machine which I would buy for my self or I herd good things about esab welders very afford able machines. I don't mind stick welders I can run some good welds with one but if you want to go to 1/8 or small sheet metal it will be a challenge. Let us know what you plan on getting I am interested

Those gearboxes like that used the grease in them Bennoite I believe is at least one name for it. Most of them you could not keep 90W in them.I think it sort of liquifes as the gears run in it. At least that is what I have been told!

Tractors aside, I wish you good health and happiness @D_Mac!

Slowly moving forward... This will be made into a new exhaust

Yes put a roll pin back in for positioning then weld it. Of the dozens I've had out I don't think I've ever had one that wasn't welded. Just a hole for the dog point. Make sure the shifter boot is in good shape. Now might be a good time to change fluids too. Always easier to refill through the shift hole

I think Garry nailed it...tree toad. They can be very load during the night. We were camping at Kelly's show a few years ago...back of the Charlotte county fair grounds. They were so loud, I was tossing stones and sticks up in this tree to try to get them to shut up. NO TREE TURDS WERE HURT THAT NIGHT.

Send @rednos a PM. I believe he has some NOS parts to help you out.

Like the one of my FILs I pictured earlier in the thread?

A freshly cleaned and primed hub(that didn't break taking it off!), A little anti-seize, and wheel studs! Also welded the extra holes shut on the rear fenders that aren't covered completely by the taillights.

I have seen that one and thank you very much for sharing it. I've also looked a bit at one based in Maine here named Brandon Lund. And there's a college somewhere that puts out something called weld.com.

Hey EB I've read bits and pieces of this thread, it has gotten pretty messy! I did see were someone talked about classes and none available. Maybe you visited or already see this web site http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/, pretty good place to see how to do it basic to advanced . Good luck !

you know Dan... One would almost get the impression that you're not fond of flux core welding...

I'm going to need a bigger garage......

Been too busy sorting parts and tearing this down to get any pictures posted so here's a quick update: repaired and refinished the gauge panel(had a lot of gouges and marks from the hood rubbing), and replaced the right rear axle seal(only leak on the whole tractor)