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Not positive I'll be at this years show, yet. I still cannot drive my GMC to tow yet, not fair to make my little wife drive all the way herself with our cargo trailer, 10+ hours @ way. I can stand and walk fairly well and am making parts again, but my left foot can't push a clutch down consistently, and I still think & react too slowly . . . (strokes), I think I can do things, BUT, I way over-estimate what I can really do all too often. Marrying a good woman really pays off when a stroke like this happens! Hired my neighbor to mow grass, but he has a JD, . Glen Got some really nice WH covers, they look and work great! (for C-series & 300-series, will fit most other models about that size). Just $50 at the show, shipping is $10.

Added one from a new series to the fleet today. Fires on carb cleaner but won't stay running. Gas smells old. Took the seller and me and a come-along to get her up onto my Tacoma. So heavy I had to drag it up onto my loading ramp as the Tacoma was squatting. Came with a 48" deck in poor shape and a snow blower that has some ugly welding repairs. Hood and belt guard are here but not mounted. Hood needs a hinge. The seat is in perfect shape except for the Fix Or Repair Daily logo. Another project not sure what she will be used for yet.....

Glen, leave the trailer home and come hang out with us. We would all love to see you and we can place orders to have your goodies shipped.

Wow, you guys are quick. My wife always tells me I’m on here too much. She doesn’t understand there’s vultures out there.

Quite simple, just use and abuse it for twenty years or so!

Saw a gt14 for a really good price on Craigslist yesterday went and looked at it last evening, ended up buying it . It’s a 68 or 69 gt14 but I’m not exactly sure which. It’s in decent condition and seems to be complete. It has a really nice complete three point hitch and a really nice three point tiller. I didn’t think the seat and muffler were original but I looked at a manual and it turns out they are. I’m gonna try to get it running for the big show but if I don’t I will still take it. The best part is I bought it from a super nice guy that knows a lot about wheel horses. Some of you might know him, his name is Less, sorry didn’t catch his last name. He has been going to the wheel horse show since the beginning and personally knew Cecil and Betty Pond. He used to have 74 tractors but he narrowed it down to his favorite three. Overall it was a really good day. I got to meet a really nice guy, get another tractor and hear some good stories. Here are a few pictures of the gt14 and tiller. I am gonna start working on it this Sunday. Tractor or serial number Tiller serial number

I’m a huge fan of the Magnum series for motor swaps. My GT1600 (originally a Briggs 16 twin) has a Magnum 10 under the hood and it’s my favorite machine. I had a C-105 with a Magnum 12 that I regret selling a few years ago. So when I saw @Chris T had a machine with a Magnum I casually mentioned that if it was ever up for sale give me a heads up...we’ll he decided to sell and it’s now in my garage! Smooooth and quiet and starts in a pull or two. Motor fits in it real nice and the hood isn’t chopped. It’ll be a perfect cruiser for shows. If you ever have the chance to buy off Chris go for it! Straight shooter, honest and no BS. He even surprised me and delivered it

I can’t keep up with the one I have..... why would I want another?

@GlenPettit We would all like to see you there Glen, but your health comes first. Glad things are looking up...

Talk about a Buy/Sell thread going off topic/down the drain Come-On, I'm looking for some more good sale items to post here

I'm thinkin with the room available either cook a Cornish game hen or a half rack of ribs!

You shouldn't have to bang it at all. Should go through loosely. The eye on your mattock should have a heavy taper.Handle is inserted first staring it from opposite end where head goes through mattock's head opposite operating side if I make any sense. As it reaches other end it wedges itself on tapered end of handle. You can just tap protruding end on floor a couple of times to snug it. Wax seals end grain on handle. If it absorbs a lot of moisture through there it starts turning to mush there and eventually that's the end of it..

It sounds like things are looking up Glen. Glad to hear that. I won't be at the big show this year but if you decide to make Mentone and need any help my services are yours.

My Grampa always joked about keeping a blonde in the closet... maybe she’s in there?

C clamp it to a length of rope, tie it off to Trina’s grader tractor, let Mother Nature help?

Thanks Terry! @Vinylguy These are cool. Sorry the model doesn’t look better.

Good afternoon all!! Windy and rainy here in Illinois but a small patch of sun managed to find me today. I have here a CASE 448 with 18 HP Onan. Never had one but heard when it breaks down, they are very expensive to resurrect. Has hydraulic tiller and a mowing deck that was used twice. Filled with gas and runs good with no problem. Tiller does work and deck is not locked up. Undecided about it's life since it was a free for the taking. I know it would look better painted and think I might paint it like my 970 farm tractor. Orange wheels and frame, Desert Tan for hood and fenders. Too many irons in the fire due to hauling garbage and farming between rain drops. What to do..... Thanks for reading!

First of all—YOU GOT A GREAT DEAL for cast iron weights. Not sure on the brand although the one on the left looks very similar to the late model WH weights... When we bought Kelli’s 523D those were on the back... When Caleb bought JackRabbit (418-C) those were on the back... Ours weigh about 55# a piece. I took one of the the one’s from the D and painted it silver and use it on my land side wheel for GhostRider... It works great as a base for IH wheel weights to be added on. I’m able to run two WH weights on the inside the afformentioned weight on the landside and stack IH weights on top of that. CASE GT’s have some of the coolest looking weights around... Here they are on my cousins tractor. I liked them so much, I got a couple of sets, painted them yellow and put them on my son’s 100 plow mule...

It all depends on how credible you want it to look. For that its not going to be fast. You will have to decide also if you want patina achieved from years of use, or patina from years of neglect and abandonment. First your new handle is most likely to have a varnish finish on it . You will have to strip that. With an unfinished handle for a look of years of use, a hickory handle is best ( white oak is actually best but you will not find one out of it). If you have ammonia around, place handle in a closed container exposed to the fumes of the ammonia ( no direct contact). Leave it for about a week. The chemical reaction with the tannin present in the hickory and the ammonia will give the wood a nice aged brown tone. The longer it stays the darker it will get.Unlike stain it will penetrate very deep into wood. Now you can ding it a bit to put some regular use damage into it. Next to to show use, scuff lightly with steel wool(to give it a little tooth) specially on the parts that would NOT have contact with hand in use and then rub entire handle with moist coffee grinds. Let dry thoroughly. Then around area that hand touches during use wipe vigorously by using your hand around that area.It will develop a nice satiny sheen looking a bit lighter than the rest of it. Finally dip handle in linseed oil. Only dab dry parts that will show no use and rub the parts that will show use. Told you, not so quick but it will be credible. For a neglected handle its a lot easier. Maple is better. Again no finish. Dirty handle substantially with moist dirt. Leave in weather for a while and it will get a dark gray abandoned look. Better yet take handle from above process and leave it in weather for a while. Most well used hammers have inevitable blood stains in them. Pretty distinguishable, nothing else leaves stains like that. You can make it more real by bleeding on it a little.

I wonder if rubbing them down with used engine oil and dirt would give you that used look

I don't know the exact sizes but that information is just about correct. One thing to remember is that the belt guard system must still be usable or you're clutching mechanism as a whole might not work correctly. You can only get away with a slight increase in size on the engine pulley without needing to modify the belt guard so that it will still maintain status as a belt guide. It might be easier and less expensive 2 shrink the size of the transmission pulley instead of increasing the size of the engine pulley. There are sheave and pulley size and RPM calculators online that will help you get to your desired level of speed.

Most cast iron weights in my area are about $1.50 per lb. They may not be for a , but for 10 bucks they would be now!

With the fender pan bolted down, we're waiting for this horse's saddle to arrive from out west! (I purchased a unique c-series seat from @dw753...we'll see if you can guess what's different) ^^^ The hardware securing the fender pan to the tractor is actually new grade8 hw from TSC. It "parkerizes" beautifully as long as you 1st remove the yellow coating prior to the acid simmer. Some red side markers from TSC round-out the rear.

Thanks Rich @19richie66 They turned out better than I expected. Guess I better have more made before the show .

So I like to mess around with small engines like old Briggs washing ma hine engines and such. Today I started on a continental. I've never messed with one of these so it should be interesting. Not really sure how the throttle works at this point. There is a rod coming down behind the flywheel that I'm not really sure what it does, but it adjusts something. You can see it in the one pic coming down to the carb elbow. Has a bendix stromberg carb so not really sure where I would find parts if I need them. Anyway it should be fun so more to come!

I'm definitely a guy, but I also try to pay attention to what goes on in other GT worlds. Never know when you might have an opportunity to turn some ones junk, into someone else's treasure.

I have the good fortune of having longevity on both sides of my family. Late eighty is considered young for a member of either family to pass. With the exception of accidental deaths and cancer my relatives live well into their nineties. Guess I better hope my IRA holds out for a while longer. At the time the company I worked for instituted a no smoking indoors policy I was rather put out by it. I had already quit drinking ten years prior, but smoking was much harder to stop. At the time I did some SCUBA diving and within a few months found that I could remain down much longer and suffered less fatigue. That was thirty years ago and each year's annual physical demonstrates the blessing of a smoke free life.

My dad passed away at 69. Smoked for 35-40 years. Not a heavy smoker but maybe a pack a day. When they went to harvest his organs, everything was black. They couldn’t use anything but his corneas. My grandfather smoked occasionally and a pipe also. He passed at 79. My great uncle never smoked, never drank, survived the battle of Midway, came home from the war, opened a jewelry store and was married to his wife for 65 years. Ate fried chicken, hotdogs, cheeseburgers and french fries. He passed at 92. I am glad I never started anything tobacco but if I could just kick that pizza habit.......

As soon as I saw the pictures, I knew someone would want that pristine Ford seat. Those are hard to find in that kind of shape!!

Good for you my friend, that’s the best thing you could do for your lungs. And yes save $$$ for anything! Keep up the good work ! I quit 28 years ago and never looked back!

My mother died 2 years ago at the age of 63. She was diagnosed with copd 2 years prior and never quit smoking. She was way too young and so am I to die so its been 1+ month since i quit my 1 1/2 pack a day addiction. I already feel 4000% better and im huffing an puffing less up stairs. I dont know how many years im adding to my existence but even if its one day i will he glad. Plus im saving so much $$$ that i can spend on wheelhorse stuff

I can help you dilemma and take I can help you dilemma and take the sickle bar off your hands for you then you don't have to worry about it

Here's my 312 with the original long (6" wheel) spindle and the up graded 8" wheels. I like it cause it gives me more height under the front axle that allows me to raise the plow frame higher. I really never had a problem adjusting the mower deck.

No just on top of the gun cabinet...here's the other wacker I made...

Hi fellas, Good news, got today a original Nameplate from ISEKI for my Tractor cooooool😎 Just have to install on my Tractor. Because of no Rain now, i try my Tiller in real Work - if and how it works. Firstly without sharpening Blades ahead. A bit more speed on the Blades was a wish, but let's see. I just "try" it for 1 1/2 hour and yes, it Works.😂 Yes, it is work, my Tiller fights with some Grass and Roots, but i have also a lot of Fun with. it hacks the grass, but not good enough for me, i'm sure it works better when it's sharpened. The result is for first tilling was better than i expected. 👍😇 The new Engine started easy. Choke in fuel on and a light Pull, it runns immediately very smooth after push the choke. I let it run about 30 sec. to preheat, then Full Throttle and Tilling. I didn't have honestly a compare to the old Originalengine, but the Engine seems not to run under any Load or pained. Just A few regulations on spin was heared. The Pull force is enough, that i can pull myself over the Field. just by lifting and smoothly drop down it can be handled at first time Tilling. The second run was more easy to control that raging something. The double of Enginepower was a good idea. Maybe the Blades can be a bit larger to dig deeper, but im fine with and the Floor is now fine crumbled. just a few Grasslumbs fighting against the Tiller, but maybe next time if Blade sharpened, they lost. otherwise i will remove them. I'm definitely satisfied with the result. Passing three times each row and will continoue this now every 2weeks to hack all the grassroots. I'm not a Farmer, so I'm Curious if this will work with my little machines. inbetween i will plogh every time a bit deeper than immediately Tilling. My Goal is 30 cm deep. That's my plan to prepare my small Field. Greets fellas.

Ooooo, add that to my bill Ed. I want it Got lucky on the timing seeing this one.

I just picked these up for 10 bucks they're cast iron wheel weights the bolt pattern will bolt up to a wheel horse wheel but I'm not sure if their original Wheel Horse wheel weights does anybody have an idea if they are or are not . They look more orange in color then red to me Thanks

It uses a double taper idle pulley between the engine and transmission. The center piece on this pulley can move side to side. As you move the pulley away from the engine it force that belt down towards the center on one side of the pulley. This make the belt from the idler to the transmission climb to the outside on the other side of the pulley. Maybe this video can explain it better than I can.

Thank you ebinmaine my neighbor is going to make me a plate to bolt to the hubs for support sometime here in the next week or so. He is a welder and fabricator for exxon here at the gas well sites, so at times he is very busy. But I do really thank you.

You can usually restore these coils if you're handy. I've saved a few. I used to run Sears Suburbans. This afternoon when I get home, I'll write up a better post. I've got a copy of the troubleshooting list in the basement. If it's nothing with the stator pulse coil, or wiring, usually it's nothing more than a shorted out diode. It's tedious work, but you can remove the resin insulation and get down to it, solder in a new one. The only thing I've seen that will really kill them is running with a bad plug wire, or the cap coming off the plug. That will blow out the coil winding's, then arc around and cause disaster. And never NEVER check for spark without being sure the plug is grounded. Shame you weren't closer to Maine. I have one of those engines I'll likely be selling. And a second one that's points fired somewhere I think. Personally I am not a fan of the aftermarket kits. They do away with the ignition retard for spark timing. They always seem to start hard without that, and never run like they used to.

I swear I see old hammer and axe handles at flea markets all the time. Maybe pick up a used one??

Mike.... Snack storage goes there. I'm pretty sure. Feel free to mail me the chrome stack.

That's a great idea Richard but I was hoping for a slightly faster method.

Here is information from Brian Miller's site. Here is a good read for you. http://gardentractorpullingtips.com/valvecam.htm There are two ways to measure the amount of wear in valve guides. One way is with a dial indicator. The other way is with an "go/no go gauge" and a micrometer. It's best to have a local machine shop do the measuring because they have the right tools and they're experienced with such things. How to Remove and Install Pressed-In Cast Iron Valve Guides in a Cast Iron Block Kohler Engine: Acquire a 1/2" diameter x 5" long grade 8 bolt. Machine the threads down to .300" so it will become a pilot to fit inside the valve guide. This will be the driver tool. Remove the valves, springs and retainers. Measure old guides to ensure if they are actually worn or within specs. To remove worn valve guides: On the Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181/M8 and all flathead twin cylinder Kohler engines, if the lifters (and camshaft) are installed, break off half of the guide inside the valve spring compartment with a cold chisel and medium size hammer, then use the machined bolt as mentioned above È and a big hammer to drive the remaining guide out and into the valve spring compartment. If the lifters and cam isn't installed, just drive the entire guide out into the valve spring compartment without breaking it off. On the Kohler engine models K241-K341, if the lifters (and camshaft) are not installed, drive the entire guide out into the valve spring compartment with the machined bolt and a big hammer. But if the lifters (and camshaft) are installed, and if there's not enough space to remove the entire old guide, then half of the guide will need to be broke off with a cold chisel and hammer, then the rest of the guide can be removed. Install the new guide with the machined bolt with a flat washer under the pilot so the guide will be flush inside the intake and exhaust pockets. The new guides may need to be reamed out with a 5/16" reamer so the valve stems will have correct clearance. FYI - In most cases, worn valve guides don't necessarily need to be replaced. They can be repaired with a thin-wall bronze sleeve/liner, like the ones installed in automotive cylinder heads. Also, a bronze liner will last longer than a cast iron guide because bronze retains more oil for better lubrication for the valve stem.

That motor fits in like it should have been there from the factory. Fills out the hood nice. Chris is a straight shooter and no BS. Nice cruiser for sure.

Here is a trick that I use. If I'm using a light color primer, I will mist a dark color over it (dark primer use light color mist). Usually just use a spray bomb for the mist color. Then I will sand the primer until the the mist color is gone. This method helps you see your imperfections while your sanding and lets you know when the entire surface has been sanded.

I’m looking forward to seeing the finishing touches!

I doubt they are , others will know for sure. They look something like them, though. Paint them either red or black, and put them on your tractor, and you're all set. For 10 bucks, they are one heck of a deal

got the transmission back together

I made a form from a couple of 2 x 4 's of the front corner of the hood put a plastic bag over it laid up two layers of 6 oz fiberglass cloth then married it into the hood on the broken corner then added two layers of fiberglass mat to build the thickness up Brian