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I called on a “free firewood p” posting on CL and it was advertised as easy access. I called, let him know I had a truck, dump trailer and saw ready to go and could be on the way soon. He was good was that, and I asked if I could drive up to the wood. He hesitated, then asked if I know how to drive a tractor. “Well, yes I do!” As long as I don’t scratch the tractor or outside of the bucket, I’m allowed to use his loader tractor. Well, here I am heading to dump one load, get him some fuel and cut another load before the day’s over! Would you you tell someone to com over and grab the tractor f on a CL ad, when you’re not there? I can tell you I wouldn’t!

Hey guys, been gone for a while, busy with work and stuff. I got the tiller mounted on the horse the other day, tilled the garden, and then today I re-tilled and planted my first crops. Carrots, Onions, Turnips, Radishes, Spinach, Lettuce... I have some tomato starters inside under lamps and I'm doing seed potatoes tomorrow. Hoping to get some Farmer's Market action going on this year!

Update as of today...

Speaking of Diesel Cubs and Super frames... As I’ve said before, this is the tractor that got me into the hobby. I’m the second owner and my dad’s oldest brother Bob went to high school with the original owner. It was used regularly but taken care of extremely well. It was the first year of the 17hp Kubota D640B in a Cub but the last year of the all metal Super Cub. Yes, it works as hard as it looks like it would... Just turned 1500 hours... As was mentioned, my fuel consumption was about 40% less than a comparable gas motor and about 55% less than an Onan (those love fuel but produce diesel like torque). It’s had a list of odds and ends that I’ve upgraded or replaced Over the last decade but it keeps on going strong. Hoping to get many more years out of it.

The only thing better would be if he delivered and stacked the wood then gave you the tractor!

When you drain the milk shake out of the transmission be sure to jack up the front end of the tractor. There is a hump in the bottom of the case that will trap some of the old crud in there. Here is a good place to buy a new shift lever boot. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html#!/Wheel-horse-3577-shifter-boot/p/84932555

Can’t work on one kid’s and not the other! We scored a set of tire chains on “Big Junky” the 12/1076. I told Jada she could have them, she’s been lacking in the field traction department ever since we tossed chains and weights on Rylee’s rig.

After alot of JBWeld (extra holes, rust pits, etc.) & sanding, the hood is ready for lipstick. flying-hood and flying-tractor face off...hopefully reunited really soon!

A few days ago the pto stopped engaging so I was thinkin the clutch went out. Today i got to lookin at it and realized that the snap ring had expanded and come loose so I put a new snap ring on it and it worked like a charm

Agreed Richard, I see them resonable ther in old tattered nos boxes but then I see them for $$$$. Of all the aftermarket stuff to keep these motors running I personally would like to use Kohler rings. Unfortunately this being a hobby and I'm not looking for pulling champion prize money or flying at 33k ft my wallet tells me to settle for Chinese.

Unfortunately it isn't just the four legged horses that can get away from you. This afternoon I was driving my GT-14 down my Very Steep driveway when the right axle decided to work its way out of the differential (guess the snap ring came off). With that the began picking up speed rapidly, I lowered the FEL bucket but it didn't help much. I didn't want to hit a tree because the sudden stop would hurt for sure. I rode it out until it crossed the road and headed for the creek. As it approached the ditch I bailed off, when I got up I saw it sitting harmlessly at the edge of the creek. My neighbor and I pulled it back to the barn (had to jack it up and shove the axle in a couple times). God was watching over me for sure! I will have a little black eye and have a few bruises, but considering how it could have ended I feel blessed. Disney has nothing on me! Don't have any pictures, don't even ask! I Know, I Know, that means it never happened.

Thanks wheelhorseman for your help for ordering my 1533 bearings. From Wheel Horse parts and More. Thanks to the other members for leading in the right direction.

I really can't deny or confirm that I have ADD. All I know is... Hey squirrel... Look shiny! Oh my..... Okay okay well seriously though. I have a serious tendency to .... NOT do... Whatever it was I said I was going to go out and get done. I used to really irritate myself about that but I figured out a few years ago that it really didn't matter because there's nine million things that need to be done n at least I accomplished something. It's not like I'm loafing in front of the television or computer all day. So rather than trying to make concrete plans of doing a certain thing I just start to head that general direction and hope for the best and latch on to whatever it is that I changed my mind and decided to do.

It is recommended by Kohler to use standard rings on a .003 over piston. It's not really uncommon to run across the .003 blocks...but then, I've done "quite a few" Kohlers.

Nellie Oleson. I’d had to smack her if she were mine.

God you mean I'm not the only one, my wife claims I have ADHD. I can start one thing an by the end of the day I have started 10 projects. I can be mowing the lawn drive by the shed and next thing you know I'm heading to get paint...lol

Long and short of it is that in the manufacturing process not all blocks came down the line with a perfect cylinder. Some were re cut at .003 over to save the block, some even left the factory at .010 over.

Nothing a torch and a “ford wrench” can’t fix. It’s a start.

work on the tractor is progressing. Solenoid and regulator installed with dedicated grounds. The PTO limit switch bracket was roached...so I fabbed-up a new one out of flat stock. Gave it some "texture" on the belt sander then coated with amsoil MP HD. DVM to verify that the additional thickness didn't put the switch too far from the actuator.

Got the 857 assembled this morning, the choke cable is frozen and is getting a WD40 treatment and I need to sort the wiring out... I should have taken pics of what wiring went where when I was pulling it apart, but I was in a hurry to get it in the truck! I'm undecided weather I should trim the floor board to fit the PTO controls, or just remove them. Most likely there won't be any mowing or tilling with it, just pulling stuff with the hitch. I tried some WD40 and 180 grit on the hood to see if it would clean up and it seemed to work pretty good! I cleaned up the mess with SD-20 degreaser and some blue rags. The fuel pump is missing the fittings and lines so I'll have to IV-drip some fuel into the carb when it's time to test start it... then I'll see what I can wrangle up to get the pump working like it should.

Besides the trusty and go to source of A-Z tractor, I have come across another large site however it is still quite a distance for me.. Does anyone have a list of sources? I have a video here https://lm.facebook.com/l.php?u=https%3A%2F%2Fm.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3Dg1AoIeHC9Zw%26fbclid%3DIwAR1vAW2gTC_xXGxgnEswkZ38iV3BaLrrXdux5tRBuShe4VuySDjYvf8c4ps&h=AT0QZBqu4bdqU1RWlF6W63H2skH3jcGwBJpkFDBvqlFtjkjjuLmFwjMD6JKE5Q4Ot539-rbo0gc3WofjIZqoNpQxnBlVgKubN6TcUOpTwRnbRNvCOaL9WvFR0fWqGhYb_Qdx26lz7b3AoBeZAUAxhxgHmWBQ8lQcvkc1WA

That's a great deal, but when I cut 4 big maples for my neighbor, he loaded them with his back hoe and delivered them on his dump truck.

To be fair: I don’t know a 2 yo alive that wouldn’t walk the distance for a popsicle, because: popsicle 😂

Thanks everybody...boot is ordered...headed to get some gear oil and diesel right now. Pics soon to come

Click here and poke around.

I drove a old Mercedes Truck Sold it last year with 1.312.000 Km second Engine Revision... one of the Revisions i did myself at about 1mio.Km .. Here some impressions... 😎 disassemble the whole Engine -remove worn Cylinder Head... old and reworked Cylinderhead in compare.. Without Oilpan short before dissasemble the Pistons Then measuring in each direction All parts of this Engine Rework the Cylinder and give a new Hohne One of the new Pistons in front short before preinstall ( heat up) while pistonbolt is in Fridge... Rework the whole Engine Check an rework Injection nozzles And finished... Didn't find the first Start Video... after that rework i drove 670Km testdrive at once😎 With that Old lady, i miss her, but i know she is in best Hands...

I have replaced those blocks on C series and 300's and have never run into that problem. In fact a 75 C-160 takes the same support part # as an 86 310. Part # 88-2710-03

Jack the front end up at least 18 to 20 inches every time you drain it.

Load number two. This little diesel absolutely sips the fuel. I hauled all this around his yard with less than a gallon. What is this, cherry? Most of the first load was ash.

It's on Big Show Squonk pile Mike.

Usually you can't use "Modern stuff" for personal use: so the barn can have a refrigerator in the barn to store meds for the animals, but no refrigerator in the house for human use. Rational is: humans may get distracted by using modern stuff & have too much idle time get in trouble, and not appreciate their past (1800 or when they left Europe). But they often can wear Velco-lace shoes to reduce pain so they can then go out to the barn to work. To make a living for the family they can use modern equipment, (even CNC, iPhones) but not to make their personal life easy. At the big Wheel Horse Show you'll see a whole building that just the Amish have, and they are using iPhones to look up parts on & play solitaire on, but can't use a real deck of cards, c o n f u s i n g.

Decided to do some oil changes today. C-81 got it's engine oil and trans' changed. Trans' was rather milky, though it has been in there since I got it some 6-7 years ago. C-125's engine oil was ok. Couple of hours running since the rebuild and still clean. The trans' again milky and not much came out. No leaks so I assume I hadn't put enough in after the rebuild. One thing I wish I had done on the rebuild, was to fit another drain plug in the casing. The factory one is a pain. I put the rh rear on some boards and jacked the front up. Still couldn't get it all out. Bad design. I also changed the engine oil on the Sears/Roper. Tomorrow I'll do the trans' on that along with engine and trans' oil on the Black Horse. The grease gun will get well used as well on all four. I did find the left rears on both the C-81 and C-125 had little, read no, air in. C-125 has a split valve. C-81 maybe not sealing on the rim properly. Something for next week maybe. BTW. No sign of water ingress in either trans'.

The gasket is different for hydros than gear drives Hydros use 5999 which is NLA form Toro but Lowell sells them ..or you can make your own. Sundstrand hydro transaxles use a different Seal than the gear drives 1-1/8" axle. WH# is 6449 CR11124 Gear drives use 100443 CR 11050

Dealing with only .003 I would think it would have been common. .003 would be past the wear limits of the piston but still within reach for the rings

Looking at at the service manual will answer your question about the brass screws and tell you how to adjust them.

agree with the fed back above, that milk shake mix is defiantly water , when you change out that shiftier boot , i use a razor blade to cut it off, then use grease on the shiftier rod and boot hole to install , make it easy and smooth. another thing, do you have any open road area near you? diesel fuel flush , combined with minutes on road will really help flushing and heating up. just rolling it around the yard barely touches it, i also use every gear and hi/lo range change in the flushing, the difference is worth it. that " outside " storage is a killer, if you haven,t done it , try using some WD 40 on a rag to wipe down your horse, it will feed the paint and transform the dull look of your unit. good luck , Pete

to definitely drain it and fill it up w/ Diesel fuel several times .and drive it around in between!

That is a beauty Steve...it has me thinking of getting going on the JackRabbit restore/refurbish with @Coulter Caleb before we get neck deep in the crazy summer season...looking great!

Thanks for stopping by the thread and hanging with me on the refresh fellas!

Kohler rings from OPE engines. https://www.kohler-engine-parts.opeengines.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6108

In a nutshell Howie if you see one with a 003 marking consider it factory and measure accordingly.. There is no substitute for accurate measuring.

This is exactly the info that my research has came up with also.

If the shifter boot is bad, water will find it's way into the tranny quite easily. If the boot is bad, i suggest changing it.

Some of those look vaguely familiar. If you want to go wider, go with dual wheels. Tire size will determine how wide you can go, like dual 6-12s will end up about 42 inches wide like pictured below and then dual 23x10.5x12s will go super wide. You can fine tune the width with custom wheel spacers to get the exact width you want. To stretch and go longer just add angle steel to the frame but going too long will make it turn like the radius of a greyhound bus, so keep that in mind.

OR THESE! But the one that mike showed you is my favorite, it belongs to @turnnleft. He and his grandson cruise on it a lot.

Slot hitch for the cultivator. Silver tow bar is in it.

Thanks for all the great advise. I’m just starting to learn about the wheel horse goodies. I’m excited to have one.

A stator behind behind the fly wheel produces AC voltage while the engine is running. Your regulator / rectifier turns this into DC voltage and regulates the charging of your battery. How to test your charging sys. Unplug the regulator. Start the engine, while the engine is running you should have about 24 to 30 volts AC between the outside terminals of the plug. Most times you will find that this will check out, turn the engine off. Make sure that the body of the regulator is grounded well. Plug it back in and test the voltage at the battery. While the engine is running you should have around 14 volts DC at the battery. If this part does not check out then you most likely need to replace your regulator / rectifier.

I had done some work for Barry on his trailer and he rewarded me with some shopping money on Thursday. I picked up this complete Commando 800 from @12 hp Kohler Robbie for the same amount as Barry gave me, so I've got a few hours of work into it. The tractor would not run when we were jumping it, so I ran to Walmart Thursday night and grabbed a battery and some random chemicals, sealants and supplies to see if I could get it going on Friday. I ended up getting the 656 and playing with that, so I started on the Commando tonight. I've been up 20 hrs, time to come in from the garage for the night. But first, an update. On Friday I did figure out that the intake valve keeper cup had split, and the valve was just bouncing around in the block when it was rolling over, so no compression and firing/backfiring out the carb and exhaust simultaneously. I found a valve set for $5 from one of the vendors and put the spares in the truck. The engine was pulled along with the wheels and tires and it was tossed on the tailgate of the Colorado. Thanks random guys that I stopped and asked for help! I dragged it into the garage tonight in hopes of making it back into a roller, but I got to work on the engine instead. The long block is assembled, I just need to torque the head bolts and put the cooling tin on the top. Then I'll have to get it back in the frame, then try to give it a whirl!