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Went digging through some of the stuff I got last week and found a multi peice poster that measures 8.6ft × 19.5ft. Had to over lap the poor thing because it was bigger then my liveing room. The other thing I found was Wheel Horse School of business binder. In 1988 the dealer went to learn business on wheel horse.

So two days ago I’m walking the trails in sun and warmth with no hat or gloves..,.then this morning I wake up to 6” of blasted snow!!! Mother Nature is quite the tease 🙄

I have always thought a 953 would look good with a narrow front end and finally decided to take the plunge. The tractor is more maneuverable than with the wide front end and steers great. This 953, which I bought from @Mike'sHorseBarn, has the Ross Steering box but the same thing could be done with the later models with a Fan Gear 953/1054 or GT-14. The entire steering system bolts in place with holes that were already in the frame and the entire process is reversible if I were to decide to go back to stock. I started with a foot long piece of 3/4" round stock (an old steering shaft) and bent it at the center to fifteen degrees so the tires would be canted in like they are on an old farm tractor. Then I made a fixture to hold the axle in place while welding it to a piece of one inch round stock (an old one inch axle). I mounted the tires (Deestone 3.50-6) and wheels and they looked great! Shaft collars were added inside and holes for cotter keys were drilled on the outer edges of the wheels. The excess 3/4" axles were cut off. Once the axle and pivot were welded together it was on to the bearings and attachment fabrication. I used 3/16" X 4" flat bar and driller and tapped them to secure it to the frame. Having a 963 frame hanging around made the job easier. A four lug one inch trailer hub is used as the pivot point. With the bearings in place I could determine the location for the snap ring groove to hold everything in place and cut off the rest of the axle. Next a steering arm was fabricated and welded in place. It was a tight fit between the frame and tire. Now it was time to fabricate a drag link between the steering box and the steering arm. I bought the ball joints from Lowell https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/steering.html#!/3-8-x-7-16-Ball-Joint-2-Tie-Rod-MTD-Cub-Cadet-Toro/p/84788581/category=23548038 and fabricated the drag link from 5/8" round stock. I drilled and tapped the ends and used 7/16-20 threaded rod to join the ball joints to the link. This was a fun project and I am pleased with the way it came out. Looks a lot like the image on my tractor crossing sign.

The Kohler manual has an excellent description on how to adjust each

I apologize for initially claiming one of the 3 was a C111 when it turns out its a B111. I had so many 1's and B's and C's bouncing around my head that a typo was inevitable. Well come Monday i will finally get to actually see and hopefully purchase the B and C 100's and probably the snow blade.

Was helping my son-in-law put in a sliding door on Wednesday. Working without a jacket. Thursday it rained with upper-30's temps. Friday morning the sun is out and we complete the job. No sooner do we get the wall closed up and the sky darkens, it starts to snow, then hail, then the sun comes out again. I'm gonna find that Punxsutawney groundhog and strangle his furry little neck.

Start of construction homemade snowplow As an example I use a youtube video of a homemade snowplow Delivery steel First fitting First I drilled a 20mm hole for attaching the bolt of the snow blade. It looks like this with snow blade. Then I drew a second plate to lock the snow blade. After i have filed everything fitting the plate looks like this now. Then I made a square hole in the steel profile. Now you can lock the plow in different positions. Then I welded iron blocks to the profile to compensate for the difference in the profile. It continues the next days........................................................................

Seriously my whole cabin was built out of milled lumber on a wood mizer sawmill. All the interior work and cabinets were made of rough sawn. Only two things you really need to know when making your own lumber is NO NAILS and be sure and sticker it on the pile.

Based on other carbs I would "Guess" top is high speed angled towards camera idle mixture small Phillips idle speed

Any attachments? Mowing decks or snow plows? Hearing these guys saying to buy all three might seem like joking but in all seriousness it might be the way to go. It sounds like all three bought individually is around $650, but maybe a package deal could be had for $500-$550? Then ya bring em all home, get them running and assess what you really have. If you get mowing decks you can now spin them all up to see which is in the best shape and has good spindles. Now let’s assume you have three running machines, you decide which one (or two) you want to keep and sell off the remainder. A running machine with at least one working attachment could be worth $300-$500 depending on its overall condition. Dont know your financial state but a larger monetary investment and some elbow grease and you could possibly end up with a tractor for free or close to it.

Calendar shot.

Just buy all three of them you are going to be hooked after the first one anyway.

And ain't gonna take it with ya... heard tell banks got plenty of money... So the Missus and I went in on this together. 2019 tractor show circuit is lookin to be be pretty sweet! Not to mention a BS trip! Figure I can stuff at least one or two long frames and a a couple of shorts in it. Thing has got a 30 gallon auxiliary tank with fuel pump for gassing tractors not to mention all the other amenities.

I have made quite a few projects out of lumber I milled my self. Here are just two made out of stuff that was supposed to go into the campfire. Cindy and I are into the rustic cabiney stuff... does it show?!?

The minute I did that the Chinese would violate my intellectual property rights and flood the market with cheap quality knock offs and I would be out of business!

Wheel Horse Semi made by Nylint. Still in box .Truck has never had diesel or oil put in. No rot on the tires Glass in nice shape. turn Key and drive! $150 SOLD!!!!!!!

Ok so I wasn't able to transplant pics from my phone to here for whatever reason but I was able to at home on the old PC. feast your eyes

All 3 tractors have their mowing decks and if all 3 prices were added up it would be 710$. This guy also has a snow blade listed for 100$. Everything looks to be in equal 6+ year barn storage condition. From the pictures he sent me, they look as if they were maintained fairly well. Unfortunately i wont get to evaluate their condition until Monday and consequently wont be able to provide you good people with pics until then. I think i will try to get all 3 and the snow blade for 550-650 as hes had these for sale for a while. Thank you everyone for helping me make this decision. Im really excited with the prospect of sharing a restoration very soon

Careful Bob...people are watching.

Short video my wife took. (I-phone so not sure it will work for everyone) FC56508A-5CB5-4281-A269-307A106F45B1.mov

I planned to use the 417H to roll the lawn today. Thought it would be the perfect day after four warm days and over an inch of rain yesterday the frost heaves should flatten right out. Problem was it was 35F with 15MPH winds and spitting freezing rain and sleet. Oh yeah, there sits that 520H snow chucker that hasn't been used for three years. What could be better than sitting in a dry heated cab for a couple hours on a day like this. And it has the 2 link Vee Bar chains, loaded tires, and plenty of weight, so there was no wheel spin. I am convinced it is time to replace this blower with a snow plow and make her my all purpose nasty weather machine.

Just talked to the guy selling these horsies and hes willing to part with the C100 B100 and snow blade for 450$. In my novice opinion on WH i believe that is a fair price for not having seen them in person or if they are in running condition. I may take a battery and some starting fluid on pick up day and see what happens

We've been known to saw a plank or two.

Has anyone tried putting this into their Wheel Horse yet? The Fluctuating Dingle Arm may be hard to get adjusted correctly, but it may well be worth trying.

True Wheel Horse Guy..........Horses in the garage, truck outside!

Now now boys. You know that picture wasn't drawn up here in northern New England because the guy is not even up to his waist in snow. But just for the record. You're right. I'm with you. We're done with it here too.

Well, 45 holes yesterday, 36 done so far today! I’m not terrible at this, but I’m a whole lot better at splitting wood!

Oh...a B-111. Well that changes everything (in my opinion). Grab the C-100 for sure and if you have funds for a second machine buy the B-100. Leave the B-111 for someone else . The beauty of the C-100 and the B-100 are that they have the exact same motor, are both garden tractors, accept the same attachments and have some value whether restored or left original. Unfortunately the B-111 has little to no value in my eyes and the seller would have to offer it for free to get me to load it on my trailer.

I had to shuffle some things around, so we had them out. Took little miss for a ride. Parked them and have let them sit out most of the day and I was amazed how many people slowed down to look as they drove by 😂. I was sitting here smoking and thought the lighting was good for a photo shoot, even though they aren’t the most photogenic.

Or you could make a kit and sell it for a couple hundred bucks and have the person put it on them selves.

Yes, and IMO, that is a negative. I never felt the shaker plate reduced the engine vibration. If anything ,I believe allowing the engine to move increased the vibration and put excess cycling loads on the drive belt . It was a bad idea that increased the cost and never had a benefit.

I'm about as die hard Ford guy as there is, but those old big C-Series Chevys were some good trucks. Made some pretty good money with my old 86 C70 bucket truck. And when I started driving tow trucks 10 yrs ago, my first rollback was on a 79 C70 chassis, made several trips to Oklahoma City and back hauling two cars at a time that we had bought at salvage auction. I could keep up with our two newer trucks going down, but coming back loaded I'd tell em just go ahead I'll be there when I get there, old girl was topped out at around 50 loaded, but she'd always get the job done

Not me...I'm stayin on his arse. I want him sharp as a toothpick for the surgery.

I built a bandsaw mill based on a design by William Rake.This is my next door neighbor in the video cutting a red oak of his.I built this mill to cut hardwood lumber but have milled a lot of pine.The missus and I built a picnic shelter with lumber off this mill.The only store bought lumber you see are the treated posts. 2012_09_27_0322.AVI

I did some plumbing and electrical on her today. Fuel lines almost all in. Hood lights wired up. Tail lights wired up. And I solved that annoying problem that you deal with when removing the instrument pannel to clean or hook up the rock shaft. Now it can fully be removed for access .

No problem, you have just proven you are human! With spring mowing season coming the B-111 would sell if it runs, just don't let the prospective buyer see the others or they will want them instead.

Thank you. Your arrows help a lot. Now I can follow the manual.

Notice that that is a B-111. None of the previous comments about C-111s apply. B-111 is a vertical shaft lawn tractor with a weaker transmission, therefore not as desirable as a C-111 (garden tractor). Not saying it is bad but definitely worth less on this board.

Notre Dame.... These Wheel Horses are way over my head...

Asking us which one to buy is like asking an alcoholic if you should have a beer or a shot; Why only one? If the B 100 or C 100 are automatic transmission you can use that as a bargaining chip. "I don't even know if they work, unless they are running I will have to offer you a little less!" Rehearse that line and use it, it works. Go get all three!

Thanks guys for all your responses. I really like this site, nice people and a lot of knowledge shared.

The oil pressure switch provides a ground for the light to turn it on when the oil pressure is lower than 3 psi to 5 psi. Normal oil pressure should be up to 60 psi with a cold engine down to 12 psi at a hot idle. Turn the ignition key to the RUN position with the engine NOT running. The oil light should come on. Pull the wire off the switch. If the light goes out the problem is the switch or low oil pressure. If the light stays on the problem is a short in the ground wire between the oil pressure switch and the oil light. When the oil light is on it should be flashing. Let us know what you find. Garry

In my experience Kohler parts are easier to come by and easier on the pocketbook as well. None of my Horses have Briggs engines, but I did have a Gilson built Montgomery Wards tractor with a 14 HP Briggs for a while, and seemed like engine parts were harder to come by and more expensive than anything I've ever needed for a Kohler. But both are good engines and if well taken care of should last a long time. All engines have their ups and downs, and everyone has their opinions on which ones are better than others. I personally would pick a Kohler powered machine over a Briggs, but would pick a Briggs over a Tecumseh or an Onan. Parts for those can get real expensive real quick, and they can be a bear to get running right, I've got a little 70 model Commando V8 with the VH80 Tecky in it sitting in the corner of my storage shed right now, it's there because I'm mad at it...no matter what I do I can't seem to get it to run right. Whatever model you decide on, good luck, and remember we all like lots of

Yeah what he said LOL. Wheel Horses are like potato chips, you can't have just one. I thought I'd be happy with just the one when I got my 1277, now I'm up to 5 and constantly on the hunt for more. Any one of the three you mentioned would be good tractors, though like @Sparky said I believe the C-111 would have a Briggs engine. Not that there's anything wrong with the older Briggs, but it's hard to beat an old K-Series Kohler

Don't want to scare anyone, but I had a bad experience with a mechanical fuel pump on a C-141. The fuel pump arm broke off and took out the rod, messed up the crank pin and possibly the governor gear. Engine probably had 1000 hours since a rebuild and I think the fuel pump was original to the motor so not sure how many hours on it. As an engine rebuilder, I see this incident as something to be aware of as these old Kohlers, while are rock solid, age has a way of diminishing effectiveness of certain components. Since this experience, I have gone to electric fuel pumps to alleviate that problem in the future An electric fuel pump has a few advantages over the mechanical type and are a LOT cheaper than a rebuild. Just my opinion garnered from experience.

Wow! Take John up on his generous offer. Now that I'm nearly done with a 2600 sq ft home rebuild I plan on doing things to the garage down the hill and utilizing the single stall side as a woodworking shop. Finding another radial arm is something I hope to do. Fortunately I won't have this dilemma but if I had to choose to own only one of the three types of saws mentioned it would be a radial arm. It can crosscut wide lumber, set up right a quality saw is precise, as John mentioned, dado and rabbit (try that with a miter saw ) like a champ and I think perform those functions safer than a table saw, accurately rip, just about everything a miter and table saw but some functions just not as easily. Remember, all three saws have their strong points as well as weak. Again, I want to mention setting up a radial arm correctly. It can be a bit tedious but not bad once you figure it out. It's not just getting a square cut. The arm must be perfectly parallel to the table and there's skews and angle of dangles that need to be set for precision work. Hopefully you'll get or can fine a manual to go through it all for the particular model. It may take a bit but once you have it a quality saw will hold it well. I've ripped 1000's of feet precisely when I had my old radial arm and it's very simple to set the guard up to totally avoid any tendency to lift. I've had 'oops' and fortunately never anything serious but I can attribute every one to pilot error.

I would be after the C-100 myself. Also I prefer the Kohler motors and I think the C-111 is a Briggs motor.

Let me know when your coming down. It's a Craftsman 10" saw on it's own bench/cabinet. I'll get you some pics of it too. If you have space for a long bench then it will get used more if set up in it. Dado and rabbit joints on longer pieces is easier than a table saw. Unless you have the table saw set up in a large bench too.

@PeacemakerJack, @Professor1990, @pullstart, Driving around doing errands today I spotted this... Since I'm a Bowtie freak through and through I really got a kick out of it...kinda like the little Blue truck that can