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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/23/2019 in all areas
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14 pointsWent digging through some of the stuff I got last week and found a multi peice poster that measures 8.6ft × 19.5ft. Had to over lap the poor thing because it was bigger then my liveing room. The other thing I found was Wheel Horse School of business binder. In 1988 the dealer went to learn business on wheel horse.
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9 pointsSo two days ago I’m walking the trails in sun and warmth with no hat or gloves..,.then this morning I wake up to 6” of blasted snow!!! Mother Nature is quite the tease 🙄
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7 pointsI have always thought a 953 would look good with a narrow front end and finally decided to take the plunge. The tractor is more maneuverable than with the wide front end and steers great. This 953, which I bought from @Mike'sHorseBarn, has the Ross Steering box but the same thing could be done with the later models with a Fan Gear 953/1054 or GT-14. The entire steering system bolts in place with holes that were already in the frame and the entire process is reversible if I were to decide to go back to stock. I started with a foot long piece of 3/4" round stock (an old steering shaft) and bent it at the center to fifteen degrees so the tires would be canted in like they are on an old farm tractor. Then I made a fixture to hold the axle in place while welding it to a piece of one inch round stock (an old one inch axle). I mounted the tires (Deestone 3.50-6) and wheels and they looked great! Shaft collars were added inside and holes for cotter keys were drilled on the outer edges of the wheels. The excess 3/4" axles were cut off. Once the axle and pivot were welded together it was on to the bearings and attachment fabrication. I used 3/16" X 4" flat bar and driller and tapped them to secure it to the frame. Having a 963 frame hanging around made the job easier. A four lug one inch trailer hub is used as the pivot point. With the bearings in place I could determine the location for the snap ring groove to hold everything in place and cut off the rest of the axle. Next a steering arm was fabricated and welded in place. It was a tight fit between the frame and tire. Now it was time to fabricate a drag link between the steering box and the steering arm. I bought the ball joints from Lowell https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/steering.html#!/3-8-x-7-16-Ball-Joint-2-Tie-Rod-MTD-Cub-Cadet-Toro/p/84788581/category=23548038 and fabricated the drag link from 5/8" round stock. I drilled and tapped the ends and used 7/16-20 threaded rod to join the ball joints to the link. This was a fun project and I am pleased with the way it came out. Looks a lot like the image on my tractor crossing sign.
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7 pointsThe Kohler manual has an excellent description on how to adjust each
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6 pointsI apologize for initially claiming one of the 3 was a C111 when it turns out its a B111. I had so many 1's and B's and C's bouncing around my head that a typo was inevitable. Well come Monday i will finally get to actually see and hopefully purchase the B and C 100's and probably the snow blade.
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6 pointsWas helping my son-in-law put in a sliding door on Wednesday. Working without a jacket. Thursday it rained with upper-30's temps. Friday morning the sun is out and we complete the job. No sooner do we get the wall closed up and the sky darkens, it starts to snow, then hail, then the sun comes out again. I'm gonna find that Punxsutawney groundhog and strangle his furry little neck.
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5 pointsStart of construction homemade snowplow As an example I use a youtube video of a homemade snowplow Delivery steel First fitting First I drilled a 20mm hole for attaching the bolt of the snow blade. It looks like this with snow blade. Then I drew a second plate to lock the snow blade. After i have filed everything fitting the plate looks like this now. Then I made a square hole in the steel profile. Now you can lock the plow in different positions. Then I welded iron blocks to the profile to compensate for the difference in the profile. It continues the next days........................................................................
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5 pointsSeriously my whole cabin was built out of milled lumber on a wood mizer sawmill. All the interior work and cabinets were made of rough sawn. Only two things you really need to know when making your own lumber is NO NAILS and be sure and sticker it on the pile.
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5 pointsBased on other carbs I would "Guess" top is high speed angled towards camera idle mixture small Phillips idle speed
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5 pointsAny attachments? Mowing decks or snow plows? Hearing these guys saying to buy all three might seem like joking but in all seriousness it might be the way to go. It sounds like all three bought individually is around $650, but maybe a package deal could be had for $500-$550? Then ya bring em all home, get them running and assess what you really have. If you get mowing decks you can now spin them all up to see which is in the best shape and has good spindles. Now let’s assume you have three running machines, you decide which one (or two) you want to keep and sell off the remainder. A running machine with at least one working attachment could be worth $300-$500 depending on its overall condition. Dont know your financial state but a larger monetary investment and some elbow grease and you could possibly end up with a tractor for free or close to it.
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5 points
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5 pointsJust buy all three of them you are going to be hooked after the first one anyway.
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4 pointsAnd ain't gonna take it with ya... heard tell banks got plenty of money... So the Missus and I went in on this together. 2019 tractor show circuit is lookin to be be pretty sweet! Not to mention a BS trip! Figure I can stuff at least one or two long frames and a a couple of shorts in it. Thing has got a 30 gallon auxiliary tank with fuel pump for gassing tractors not to mention all the other amenities.
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4 pointsI have made quite a few projects out of lumber I milled my self. Here are just two made out of stuff that was supposed to go into the campfire. Cindy and I are into the rustic cabiney stuff... does it show?!?
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4 pointsThe minute I did that the Chinese would violate my intellectual property rights and flood the market with cheap quality knock offs and I would be out of business!
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4 pointsWheel Horse Semi made by Nylint. Still in box .Truck has never had diesel or oil put in. No rot on the tires Glass in nice shape. turn Key and drive! $150 SOLD!!!!!!!
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4 pointsOk so I wasn't able to transplant pics from my phone to here for whatever reason but I was able to at home on the old PC. feast your eyes
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4 pointsAll 3 tractors have their mowing decks and if all 3 prices were added up it would be 710$. This guy also has a snow blade listed for 100$. Everything looks to be in equal 6+ year barn storage condition. From the pictures he sent me, they look as if they were maintained fairly well. Unfortunately i wont get to evaluate their condition until Monday and consequently wont be able to provide you good people with pics until then. I think i will try to get all 3 and the snow blade for 550-650 as hes had these for sale for a while. Thank you everyone for helping me make this decision. Im really excited with the prospect of sharing a restoration very soon
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4 points
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4 pointsShort video my wife took. (I-phone so not sure it will work for everyone) FC56508A-5CB5-4281-A269-307A106F45B1.mov
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3 pointsI planned to use the 417H to roll the lawn today. Thought it would be the perfect day after four warm days and over an inch of rain yesterday the frost heaves should flatten right out. Problem was it was 35F with 15MPH winds and spitting freezing rain and sleet. Oh yeah, there sits that 520H snow chucker that hasn't been used for three years. What could be better than sitting in a dry heated cab for a couple hours on a day like this. And it has the 2 link Vee Bar chains, loaded tires, and plenty of weight, so there was no wheel spin. I am convinced it is time to replace this blower with a snow plow and make her my all purpose nasty weather machine.
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3 pointsJust talked to the guy selling these horsies and hes willing to part with the C100 B100 and snow blade for 450$. In my novice opinion on WH i believe that is a fair price for not having seen them in person or if they are in running condition. I may take a battery and some starting fluid on pick up day and see what happens
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3 points
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3 pointsHas anyone tried putting this into their Wheel Horse yet? The Fluctuating Dingle Arm may be hard to get adjusted correctly, but it may well be worth trying.
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3 points
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3 pointsNow now boys. You know that picture wasn't drawn up here in northern New England because the guy is not even up to his waist in snow. But just for the record. You're right. I'm with you. We're done with it here too.
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3 pointsWell, 45 holes yesterday, 36 done so far today! I’m not terrible at this, but I’m a whole lot better at splitting wood!
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3 pointsOh...a B-111. Well that changes everything (in my opinion). Grab the C-100 for sure and if you have funds for a second machine buy the B-100. Leave the B-111 for someone else . The beauty of the C-100 and the B-100 are that they have the exact same motor, are both garden tractors, accept the same attachments and have some value whether restored or left original. Unfortunately the B-111 has little to no value in my eyes and the seller would have to offer it for free to get me to load it on my trailer.
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3 pointsI had to shuffle some things around, so we had them out. Took little miss for a ride. Parked them and have let them sit out most of the day and I was amazed how many people slowed down to look as they drove by 😂. I was sitting here smoking and thought the lighting was good for a photo shoot, even though they aren’t the most photogenic.
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3 points
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3 pointsOr you could make a kit and sell it for a couple hundred bucks and have the person put it on them selves.
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3 pointsYes, and IMO, that is a negative. I never felt the shaker plate reduced the engine vibration. If anything ,I believe allowing the engine to move increased the vibration and put excess cycling loads on the drive belt . It was a bad idea that increased the cost and never had a benefit.
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3 pointsI'm about as die hard Ford guy as there is, but those old big C-Series Chevys were some good trucks. Made some pretty good money with my old 86 C70 bucket truck. And when I started driving tow trucks 10 yrs ago, my first rollback was on a 79 C70 chassis, made several trips to Oklahoma City and back hauling two cars at a time that we had bought at salvage auction. I could keep up with our two newer trucks going down, but coming back loaded I'd tell em just go ahead I'll be there when I get there, old girl was topped out at around 50 loaded, but she'd always get the job done
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3 pointsNot me...I'm stayin on his arse. I want him sharp as a toothpick for the surgery.
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2 pointsTakes some effort and time to get used to it. Sharp chain is a must.Have to do it probably six or more times in a single log. Then you got to always make sure rollers are flat on the previous cut. Takes two very coordinated guys to do it. Got to also make sure guide board is clean with no pieces of bark for roller to climb over.I got it because of the opportunity of getting a lot of free lumber but you had to work for it. In this area it was the only way to save that lumber.I would cut thick slabs, then re-saw them after drying with the re-saw band saw. Did quite a few thousands board feet with it. God I was young then.
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2 pointsI don't mil anymore with the chainsaw mill. It was enjoyable but hard work. Also always had to find a partner for the other side. I do once in a while set up a "little" operation with my re-saw band saw.
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2 pointsNothing to the tractor but I did get this packed up for a trip to NC 👍
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2 pointsThanks. It’s temporary . I’m rebuilding the original. I was surprised how it fired up on the second pull though.
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2 points
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2 pointsThanks for Tom (Shyon) for the measurements and sending me (free of charge) not one but 2 center caps. I was able to cut the shaft and re drill the pin and install the new center cap. Thanks again Tom !!
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2 pointsThe one I have was made by Rob Sperber of Sperber Tool Works. He lived right up the street from me. I have to dig it out for photos. Here are some photos from instruction book and a link to better photos of it being used. Pretty easy to use. The secret was two very powerful chainsaw motors.You basically mill log where it falls. Used to do it right in people's backyards when they cut down a tree. Had also a connection with one of the tree service contractors that used to call me when something nice was taken down. http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=13610.0
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2 pointsit continues with the homemade Today sawed as the first individual profiles fitting. Then I welded out of these parts a frame. Then I attached this frame to my hollow profile. So it looks finished welded. .....and so incorporated. Then I started making the tail. The u-rail serves as a guide later. This is what the finished hollow profile looks like. On the tractor, this hollow profile is plugged into the trailer hitch. Then I built another angle to raise and lower the hollow profile and thus the snow blade. Now it is dark and I am closing time, because I no longer see the tool !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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2 points
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2 pointsRichard—can’t wait to show this one to dad! You did great and it fits the body lines of the first “Big Wheel” so well. Great engineering and thanks for the good write up
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2 points
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2 pointsThe B's prior to 76 were a tad shorter. The 76 and 77 were identical to the C's except for rear tire size, 22.750-12 vs 23.850-12, low back seat vs high back, headlights optional vs standard, 13" vs 15" steering wheel, of course engine size and a few minor things. All attachments would interchange but you needed to watch horsepower requirements mainly with the mower decks. In 78 both continued but the B's became light duty lawn tractors and nothing like the C's.
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2 pointsI replaced all the gaskets today and put a fresh coat of black on the K321S. Going to start putting all the pieces together this weekend!
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2 pointsHere's the next installment. Belt guard This one I kept track of time on and it took about 4 hours from start to finish. Kind of a long time for such a small part but at least it didn't get ruined half way through and a start over. Think it may get pinned on so it can be removed to show the details on the pulleys. The belt itself gave me some trouble so haven't figured out quite what to do about it, yet. Screwed up and the engine shaft is short and doesn't stick out past the belt guard. But I think this one will slide since there's no plans for a mower deck, sickle bar or blower. Probably a dozer blade though.
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2 pointsThe answers for your question are simple. However within that budget they get a little more complicated. So, staying away from price right now here is my take on the options. A radial arm saw belongs in a lumberyard. Its bulky, not precise,and most of all dangerous. Many years ago I spent about six months using one everyday for 10 hours a day. Stay away from them. A miter saw is the way to go. Portable, precise, relatively safe, space saving, versatile. As far as brand, some people like them Red , some people like them Blue.Within the low price range most of them are probably OK for your purpose and frequency of use. As for features and capabilities, your price range is where things get limited . Quality wise regardless of price , the Rolls Royces are the Makita and the AEG. Nothing in my experience in using them for over 40 years comes close. As for lower priced saws, probably the cheapest will be a Harbor Freight. I have never used one and would probably stay away from it. Stick with something you can get locally and well proven like a Dewalt. Any one of them regardless of brand are very capable. Now, if you combine the saw with the proper stand to support the material being cut, whether bought or made than things get much better. Using them on the floor is not the thing to do. The other thing to pay attention when you have it, is how you carry it around. I know that many have a handle for one to do that with. Don't use it. Carry it by grabbing the saw underneath . You do not want to put any stress whatsoever on the articulating part of the saw locked or not. Carrying it by the handle will knock it off adjustment and eventually actually damage it. Treat them as a precision instrument. If you do that along with learning the proper way of using it will be a pleasure to use specially if you do crown molding which is where they are the king of tools.
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2 pointsWell today was interesting, I went to work at 7am and by noon my lunch came around and walked outside and there was a trailer with some tractors on it. I guess it doesnt get any easier then that.
