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If you can't find what you want, then you have to make it. This was my reason for building this baffle press. I wanted to quiet down the exhaust on my latest build yet maintain a look that I wanted. After a long search I haven't been able to find just the right part to fit the bill. To help make my vision a reality I made this tool. After doing the math to figure out where I wanted my louvers, I marked the pipe out & cut slits in it. Then I put the pipe in my press and formed the louvers. A look down the inside of the pipe. This pipe will get end caps welded on it & will be slid inside of my stack.

Hi, today I built selfmade tie rods for my tractor. I used cromo steel iron bars. advantage: Use of tie rod ends => thus optimal attitude of the trace and favorable exchange of parts in case of defect. Unfortunately, the cutting head did not fit on my German cutting tool. That's why I had to turn the cutting head with a pincer, but it was okay ;-) Now everything is grown again and works great.

It's a good thing I have ww-93 weights. My lift is a 2000 pound winch with a snack block.. and to charge battery, a 10si 63 amp one wire alternator. Never a dead battery.

Anybody have any clue as to what one might be worth? What's the most you would give for it?

I remember the Air Horse. I'm wondering if it could be modified for logging. Dragging small felled trees out of woods/forests.

Well I went to pick up my bolens ride master today and we'll I was there I got this little gem for $150. Wasnt planning on getting anything else. But the gentlemen said he felt it needed to go with me and i was not gonna disagree. Came with a solid deck and it's got a k-90 and solid seat pan!

Que the picture again. I made the levers from a piece of flat stock using the one old one I had as a template. Knobs from Glen, decal from Terry. I was fortunate to have the part underneath and was able to flip the plate to get rid of the pitting. I didn't have a serial # and you don't either so I asked him to put 'Suburban 400' where the serial # would be at. I didn't think about it at the time or I would have asked him to remove the 'OFF' since I'm not using the throttle to ground the magneto. I mounted the original kill button that was on the K-91 shroud in the hole to the right of the steering column.

@WHX22 @Racinbob I do have a serial number plate. I'm just missing the throttle and choke levers and the bracket they attach to. It came from another suburban 400. I bought a roller for parts at a steam show and the serial plate was zip tied to the shifter lever. Been hanging on to it for awhile now. But the serial number is 41785.

I hate to get into oil discussion but non-detergent oil also is missing many of the additives that make modern SJ series oils much better lubricants with better heat resistance, anti foaming etc than the old non-detergent.

Maple Syrup Machine is in the mirror today! Off to the sugar bush, folks!

Yeah. The ‘60 that Jake had for sale.

Says it all. Wonder what he's running in that generator?

...... At our dealership I had take care of the equipment lot . I could move all the equipment with the skid steer 10 times faster than a tractor. There is all sorts of possibilities with that setup and some imagination !

I beg to differ.... moving trailers,boats & campers around is very practical. Now your thinkin outside the box Norm...

Finally got around to using a new toy I picked up last year. It crimps fittings on the end of hydraulic hoses. Not as fast as the big professional hydraulic criimpers but it is much cheaper . and i am not in that big a rush. Last picture shows new hose on my Charger(hose on the right). No leaks from that. Now i have to fix teh controlvalve itself.

Kohler Manual says detergent.

The water test run is proving to do what it should today, but my helper passed out chopping wood!

I used to think the same thing as you. No filter. No detergent. The schools of thought have gone back and forth on this for at least 30 years but I think the most current Kohler manual shows that it's okay to use detergent oil. I do NOT know how far back that manual is in effect. Here's the part you really need to pay attention to: CHANGE YOUR OIL OFTEN

Non detergents only in motors with out a filter. Detergent oil keeps dirt/particles in suspension to be removed by a filter. School of thoughts on non filter engine is let it settle to sump to be drained out on oil change. Hence the straight 30 weight non detergent in our older Kohlers. This is why is important to do regular changes on that old but still chugging 241. Old skool info yes but still rings true.

It is regular auto exhaust pipe, It will be covered with a nice chrome stack though. My plan is to make the baffle removable, This way if it is too loud yet I can pursue the fiberglass option.

You may find the replacement sprockets available have an extra tooth or one less so good time to replace the chain as that will affect the chain length. Most times 10 feet of chain come with a master link but pick up a 1/2 link in case that is needed to get the optimum chain length. The sprockets I can get come with a common 6203 bearing in them. You purchase a pair of bushings that you press into the bearing to fit the mounting bolt which in this case is 1/2". Next time the common bearings used are easy to replace. Garry

member helping member. What great site and community this is!

It’s finished!

Ended up with about 5" of heavy snow today. Went around the yard with the snowblower first and scraped the driveway with the cinnamon horse.

Toothpick Kohler.

Hey everyone, Punxsutawney Stevebo came out of hibernation! Whatchya work'n on?

Hopes and dreams.

They are definitely unique and cool. I know last summer one was for sale in PA. I'll see if I can't find the listing and what they were asking.

I too believe in frequent oil changes using 30 weight detergent oil - On all my K161 and K181 tractors, I change it once I see that it discolored on the dipstick. I go so far as while it almost done draining , I add a few ounces of fresh oil to help chase out what is in the pan. Since all you have is splash lubrication and no filter, every bit helps. Bill

Some people. Just laying around sleeping all day.

Yes if you stick to a strict regiment I don't think it matters a whole lot.

Moving aircraft fellas... I've only seen them at the BS. My thoughts are to reversible modify it for moving trailers.

Good Idea.. those *********** engines can be a bit loud...

Nice Chris... real nice Perfect example of how they fall out of the sky when you're going on another score and not even looking! Solid seat pan & K90 might suggest an early 400??? If you can date the motor as being earlier than '60 that might confirm it? Too bad the dash plate/serial is missing. @Racinbob has got the skinny on how to repro it tho.

You know....I'm glad you guys are out there to help. I never knew these to be a stocked electrical auto part. I need to put a few of these "issues" with this restore behind me! Thanks again!

When bought it, looked like this with a cracked briggs head.

Yes, bought the 953 from a old guy several years ago. He used it for plowing a small church parking lot, and wore out the original kohler. He replaced that with a old cast iron briggs engine which when I got it, the head was cracked. Instead of messing around with worn out parts, replaced it engine with the predator 420cc, which had to move the front nose piece 4" to fit. Still have and use the hydraulic lift and 54" dozer blade. So added a swisher bucket and have a one bottom 12" moldboard which runs off hydraulic lift in slot hitch. The bucket mount are wide enough to pull bucket off and put dozer blade on.

There’s a few of Terry’s banners hangin’ there...

I dunno, I've had 5 of the D's and only one of them had a fan, and it was the latest model. The others were older and there was no indication there was ever a fan. Hah, and the one I got was frozen solid and probably hadnt worked in years!

I've heard the same thing about no filter/no detergent but I've always used detergent in all my Kohlers. My thoughts are that if you use non detergent the crud in suspension will continue to mix with everything else and won't settle until the engine is shut off. When you restart it the splishing and splashing just mixes them up again. If some stay on the bottom it's likely that they won't drain out properly because they are now sludge. The bottom line is what Jim and Eric said, change often.

Hold the part ransome Bob till said are posted !

Dano101 I have some D series parts I do not have a rear PTO but let me know if there is anything else you are looking for. Brian

Show us the rest of the build and installation. What size OD is the pipe verses ID of the stack? Will it have centering rings

you won't find one of those at Harbor Freight.... yet!

This weekend, figured I'd try my hand at restoring some fasteners and retain more of a natural finish rather than painting. After a some 'Tube research, Parkerizing seemed to fit the bill. I don't have a media blaster so I went back-and-forth between wire wheel, evaporust and a tumbler to clean-up the HW. Once getting clean (they really should be spotless, mine weren't), I basically cook it in some manganese parkerizing solution for about 15min, I rinse off the parts in water then dunk them in a bath of WD40 (to get rid of the water). Afterwards, they get a coat of Boeshield T-9 oil. I probably should've keep these parts in the tumbler for a few hours longer but it's good enough for me!

Finished tearing down the Trans waiting for an input shaft seal and case gasket. I'm not sure how folks get this plug out, I drilled-tapped a 6/32 screw and popped it out with a claw hammer: I also took the opportunity to do a more proper paintjob on the trans and frame.