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did you mean this plaque?

You can pick up this spark plug wire in the 1,000 foot rolls at Tractor Supply!

And here I thought someone found a better name for the game than “Super Bowl”. Glad you’re gonna live. 👍

That would be really cool.... no more dressing up for No way... when I cut myself the Captain or cobbler sanitizes it on the way out with the blood.. If I did that even with the serious stuff I'd have a hospital or clinic named after me by now! Sides the wife also brought home one of those skin staplers for the really bad ones.. now those things are really cool. When yer done stapling yerself up you can use them for upholster work, fix rips in yer skivvies and lots of other things.

He ain’t rolling no dice with that hand

Seeing no callouses there Madge... figure they must be Palmolive hands.

I can see the plaque already, “2019 RedSquare Hard Hat award goes to... Dr. WHX21”. He is a general practice surgeon who has an apprenticeship in making cuts with glass and fixing them with household adhesives!

Thanks I think ...

,I'm hoping I don't need a "kotex" for my

Just wanted to share a few pics of my latest acquisition. Got it in November as an unfinished project. The loader is now complete, just have some cleanup work to do, paint, routing the lines etc. anyway, it’s a c85, has in a swapped k341. Run great but it’s loud, baffles are rusted out. Address that later. The loader is home made, 2x2 heavy wall tubing. 3000 psi pump, mounted underneath right where the original mower spindle goes so it uses the original length belt. Aluminum reservoir out back for ballast and one stick control lever. The loader operates smooth with no issues. Will be perfect for work around my 2 acres. Rear fenders are all cracked but I have a set from a work horse to go on after they get a coat of red. The weak spot I see is going to be the 3/4 inch spindles. Thinking at swapping in a 1 inch axle to help remedy that. Also need to move my fittings to the inside, I know me and I’ll end up schearing them off where they are. Any thoughts from the masses on changes that need to be made are appreciated

Make sure that wound is healed BEFORE you visit the hospital.

Common Jim!!! Everyone knows that yellow plug wires make engines go faster.

Hay, that is how they closed me up after gallbladder surgery! No stitches, just super glue and a few big bandages. You have just been promoted from tin-knocker to surgeon! If you are trying to earn the coveted Red Square Hart Hat award you need to try a bit harder, @WVHillbilly520H (Mr. Storm Clean-Up) has you beat this year. Glad it didn't go deep.

I don't post my " OH NO......NOT AGAIN" moments because it the wife don't know it happened I sure don't want her to find out here!

Here is a cool alternative for a Z bend pliers that I just stumbled across.

I ended up pulling the starter apart, but it ended up being the ring hear being way too small and misaligning. Thank you for all the help everybody, its up and running now!

This is what I buy for plug wires, https://www.fleetfarm.com/detail/calco-6-cylinder-wire-set/0000000026269?bc=11798|11888|11892|11897 Copper core wire, & one kit will take care of seven engines.

"Sediment bowl" is a french word for leak. If I had a dollar for every bowl, or gasket I sold at Napa I could buy a few steak dinners..

I been cleaning up and replacing some of the worn out parts on my recently acquired '77 C160 auto. Someone put a large spring on the clutch pedal so it will return upright, after looking at the parts diagram it shows a small spring on the cam plate in the tunnel. That spring is missing, so they just went another route, after looking how it hooks up I can understand why, not much room for fat hands with short fingers or tools but I'm going to try. The spring part number is 1230 that is also the PTO spring that I need. There is an old WH dealer in town who still has some parts, he is an older gentleman and not in good health. I went by today to see if he had the spring, his partner said he was out today, and then went in the back and brought back two springs. After not being able to find a price, he said give me a buck, I told him they sell for more then that. He said he was sure they did but he didn't think they had sold any in the last ten years, still have a bag of them in the back. He said he would sell me the whole bag for $5.00, I gave him $10.00, felt bad for the old man. What I got was 13, 1230/83-2820 springs for $10.00, they sell on ebay for $11.00 to 16.00 each. Don't need all of them, but then again I don't need ten WHs, now where is my coffee

There is NO WAY you can have this many belly laughs on FB!

I think we all have that plaque, we just don't go around sharing it

for The help I’ve recieved on the site becoming a supporter is well worth it. This kind of experience and expertise anywhere else would cost a fortune. Here are the rest of the pics I wasn’t able to load earlier

Ya know you ain't too far off Digger... just to please the SWMBO I once watched a program on the boob tube with her on judgeing dogs and livestock. It was said that if a animal has an HONORABLE scar it cannot be used against grading the animal. That said being injured during resto of a horse HAS to be honorable right?

They say you use glue from a horse you get this nasty addiction???

In addition to changing engine oil drain the gas tank and fuel lines use fresh gas. If the tranny fluid is red it is ATF use the Dex-merc type Tranny filter is Wix 51410 Air is Kohler 235116 Wix 42373

Same here let it bleed out for a bit then get it to stop. Try to get it to stay shot and lather on the glue. Never got a infection that way even the chainsaw cut on my leg was fixed this way . I guess if the glue didn’t work the duct board stapler would get it done but I’d need a lot of captain in me to do that .... ! Hospitals were a last resort option back in the day as were most of the porta potties . As far as the scar goes I’d tell everyone I fought off the Bray Rd. monster ....

I think I have tried every possible combination. AG, AG with weight, turf, turf with weight and chains, ATV tires with weight etc. I have a 16% slope, 9 degree, asphalt 200 ft long drive, that goes across my place that serves 4 homes and my pole building shop on the back 40. By far the best set up for traction is the turf tires , 50 lbs. on each rear wheel, and two link space chains. When I tried to use AG tires and chains, one of the problems is where the chain crosses the AG Bar and causes a hump that make the wheel slip and spin a bit. I actually spun out coming down the hill trying to stop. one wheel landed on a flat area of chain the other on a hump and I went around. You can see this example in Jeff's pic of the AG comparison. The bare AG tires with weight worked on the gravel flat area pretty good. I suppose if you have concrete that is pretty level and don't want to mark it up the AG tires would be close to having rubber chains, if not better. My neighbor has a BX with R4 tires he can plow down and drive up, but can't plow up if the snow is deep. I had a set of rear tire chains from my D he borrowed. I am not much a fan of the R4 tires for any reason. Like you guys said, if it works use it. All situations require different thinking. I just think this thing is the ultimate test.

Cindy brought home this thing of skin glue they use in OR's but it came right off. Course I went right back to wrenching. Super glue stung a bit more but stayed on!

I use either the good grade Beldon or Packard wire - lasts for years and the higher quality ends fit it properly. Don't buy any imported wire, I've actually found gaps in the internal graphite cores several times - which will drive you nuts. I always have spare ends and wire from sets off hot rods around here - easy to make a new coil wire in a pinch. One real key to success - a proper plug wire crimping tool. Best I've found is Dad's old Belden tool - probably 30yrs old now or more, but still works perfectly and rolls those ends over like factory. I had a newer version and loaned it out, not sure who didn't return it but that led to no tools leaving here without me attached to them. Sarge

While the head was off the engine did you take a look at the condition of the cylinder wall? Have you removed and cleaned the crank case ventilation (valve cover)? If the crank case is not properly ventilated the internal pressure can push oil up past the rings into your combustion chamber.

What Ed said . Three essentials a tin knocker always has around (can’t tell you how many times I’ve done this just to keep working) 1- duct/electrical tape 2- napkins/paper towels 3- superglue Now for the next question are you right or left handed....wait does it really matter your the boss and we can see you can still work your phone to post ! Seriously take care Jim.

That's probably gonna leave a mark..er scar.

Don't lookit me Squonk... I used a piece of 18 ga thermostat wire once in a pinch...

Hard to tell till the new paint is done?

Hi all, greetings from Devon (England)! I am new to this forum and I thought I'd post the restoration of my 1975 Wheelhorse C-100. I have begun some restoration work on my 1975 Wheelhorse C-100. This was my first ever mower and I have owned this tractor since I was 15 (I am now 26). It was for sale with a local garden machinery place, we have a garden/woodland on a hill and my parents had said I was allowed to buy a lawnmower on the condition it had proper/good brakes, I think they were worried because my grandfather's Lawnflite had a fairly weak brake that failed once on the hill, though luckily no damage was done. I saved up and eventually we went to a garden machinery shop and I remember seeing a red Wheelhorse outside the shop, and finding it a really nice looking machine, (and it had proper brakes!). After speaking to the owner of the place he said he had one identical but a little rough "upstairs". They kept their mowers stored in this sort of old wooden barn attic with a hydraulic lift to access, so we went up and amongst all these modern plasticy lawn-tractors was this really cool looking Wheelhorse, paint all peeling and dented, but to me it was amazing. Here's a picture of when I got it home: I repainted it in 2010 and did some repairs, and although the finish was OK, it's picked up some scratches, wear and corrosion from years of use and storage. I have decided to repaint it now, as I would like to put decals on it and really finish off the restoration. It won't be as perfect as some examples I have seen, but it should be a really good looking Wheelhorse. I also wanted to take the opportunity to remove some dents in the bonnet, it is hard to see from the picture above but someone might have crashed it or crashed something into it at one point because the grill was dented in a few places. I mostly fixed this in 2010 but I wanted to get the last little dents along the side of the grille sorted this time. Anyway, that's the story so far and I will post more photos of the restoration as it progresses Jon

Had a up close and personal encounter with a "Saw Palmetto" which is appropriately named. Several inch long cut on my hand, so I did what any self respecting Man would do and covered with on hand products, blue shop towel and electrical tape. ER nurse saw this and said "Oh look, a Man-Daid." I guess she has seen a lot of these home remedy band-aids in her day. She said she prefers electrical tape over duct tape as it is easier to remove and clean wound.Just an FYI if you have both tapes on hand.

Fixed

This is what you want to use right here Loctite 404 O-ring glue. Nothing sticks better and lasts like it.

I have to agree with Mike. I recently started using FB Market place with great success.

thanks for the reply back as i appreciate it;the oil level was good but the first thing i did once i got it home i drained the old oil out and then replaced the head gasket thinking maybe that was bad but that didn't help ;as of now there is no oil in the motor but i will add fresh and really i never thought to check the breather but that is next ;once the head was taken off i cleaned what i could off the valves and the top of the piston ;the piston sleeve was smooth which is good ;with this cold spell we are having it will take some time to get to the garage and check the breather and yes hopefully that is the issue ;thanks again and i will let you know what happens ;

I also noticed that I need to update pictures of the ram and wedge, you can see that the foot was bent a bit in the pictures, it eventually snapped off. I built a big wedge on the beam and cut the wedge off the ram. It splits so much nicer now! Finally, the exhaust was right in my face while working, so a couple drops from an old set of SBC headers helped to divert the spent gases away from me. Occasionally the pedal freezes up, so I put it on the ground under the pipe for a couple minutes and we’re back in business!

Buy the 4cyl kit, it cost the same but then you will only need to buy 4 more tractors to but them on.

I've had to grind down a drag link socket to fit those, there are 3 main sizes of them but I only had the largest two of the 3 sizes. Mid-sized one can be ground down to fit perfectly, but those covers screws are soft and easy to damage anyway. Wish I could find a hex female plug to fit those, but the plugs are custom-formed to fit the bores so nothing else off the shelf will fit it. One thing to remember - clean that thing off as if you were going to prep it for final painting. There is no way to overclean the outside and prevent contamination of the internals - when it comes to hydraulic pumps and such you have to treat these parts as if it were surgery on a human, cleanliness is key. I also spend time cleaning the entire area around the motor/pump when removing them to keep debris from dropping inside causing damage - general dirt just seems to want to get inside these parts. Plan on a very clean, large work area with plenty of light, and an endless supply of rags and non-chlorinated brake cleaner. I keep a whole stack of simple animal feed pans to separate parts and clean them, laying things out on clean paper sheets with their order marked down to prevent mistakes. If you mess with the internal piston block - those pistons must be put back in their respective bores - do not mix them up and also pay attention to their overall length. Take your time and follow the book closely - every internal part in that Sundstrand is quite expensive and mistakes can be extremely costly. Sarge

That and too much oil is as bad as not enough, there is no snake oil that I know of that will fix a bad condition in an engine. Smooth out an idle, clean a little carbon from some valve's, OK. I'd start if you haven't already, drain oil and then add to the correct level. Clean engine breather and see what happens. IF you have to rebuild, not that hard to do. All the help you could need is right here at your finger tips. Good luck

Try this...https://ebay.com/usr/classickitchensandmoreyork

Ouch! Glad that didn’t end up in a trip to the ER and staples or stitches. This one falls into the category, “It seemed like a good idea at the time!” Live and learn.

I wanted to let you guys know that Glen Pettit now makes these throttle handle knobs in a white color. I just got this one for my RJ. Great work Glen and thank you for everything you do!

63-98 which is across the Stertz Stables... It’s a modest sized herd but we like ‘em all!

When my dad had the C-161 he had Ags with chains and a 42” snow blade. He never used it because he couldn’t push snow effectively on his black top driveway. After I got it I put some wider Tru Powers on it with fluid, inside/outside weights, and no chains. I also upsized to a 54” blade. The thing pushes it like it’s not even there. Even the 12” of wet stuff we had a couple weeks ago. I used to have chains on a 520 with no weight pushing a 48” and it would spin and scar the concrete ocasionally. For me, the Ags with weight work better. I put dad’s 42” on the rat 606 with fluid and inside weights and it pushes it effortlessly on my steep drive. I do agree chains would be a must for ice. Sorry for rambling on.

Some fun in the snow today! Got stuck a couple of times, I may need to invest in some snow chains!