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My baby girls 1st birthday was last weekend (19th), but we pushed her party back because of the forecast (🙄). We decided on a Unicorn theme.... now isn’t this just the cutest “horse” you’ve ever seen?? Figured some baby pictures would brighten up this overcast day haha!

Design by Nathan Amyx & Barry Gundlach started as a basket of 854 parts. powered by 6.5 predator with build kit. Currently produces appx 11-12 hp. The larger wrench on left side is hand clutch. This has right foot throttle control. Yes, it’s pretty fast. I’m really happy with the way this turned out. My entire collection is Wheel Horse Custom Modified’s. This fits right in.

Back to the decal project that I am much more knowledgeable about than motors. The decals I made for this tractor are digital printed on Satin finished clear overlaminate vinyl and then a layer of satin overlaminate to encapsulate and protect the solvent inks. After that I Laminate the 2 layers of clear onto a little longer piece of brushed chrome adhesive backed vinyl making a fairly thick decal which does make install a little easier but not nearly as forgiving as the vehicle wrap vinyl I use for most of my decal sets. So I cover the decal with medium tack transfer paper to help line up the hood decals as shown in this first image. Once I get it registered where I want it I put a piece of masking tape over the middle of the decal as shown in the next image. This will hold your decal registration while your applying the first half of your hood decal. I usually start with the left end of a hood decal first. Does not matter which end you apply first it just seems natural to me to apply the left end frirst. The chrome vinyl has no air egress adhesive like the wrap material (that is so forgiving and easy to rub out any air pockets after install) So I revert to the traditional decal prep and application. Make sure as always to clean your suface to remove any dust. Best to wipe it with isopropyl alcohol . then remove the tape from the end your starting with and peel back the liner then cut off the liner. A pair of scissors comes in handy for this. sometimes a third hand is helpful. Next I use a plastic squeegee to apply the decal forcing any air out as I go to get a smooth bubble free application. Then remove the masking tape from the middle and the opposite end. Lift the decal away from the hood to peel away the other remaining piece of liner and finish applying your decal. Now your ready to carefully peel off the transfer tape as shown And as simple as that you have your finished install. Yes you can use the wet application method if you feel more comfortable with that method.

I didn't do this all today, but I did take it off paint it and reinstall it. Bracing the transmission mount. I had already done this to my 312-8. This the C-120/180. The black reinforcing is 1/4" x 1 1/2" that I ground to fit in between the ridges on the transmission plate. I also used new bolts that were 1/4" longer. My neighbor did the welding as I can't see anything after the flash. I put these new seat on my tractor a while back, they sat up to straight. I had already put a 1/2" spacer under the hinges on the 312-8, so I made some for my C-120/180.

FINALLY added this 104 to my collection today. I've been after the previous owner to sell it to me for about 4 years now, and after he replaced it with a john deere he was ready to part with it. Never had a cub with a hydraulic lift like this before and I'm really excited about it! It has a 48" deck and lights. Original engine took a crap in the 90's and it was replaced with a new k241 at that time. Had the lighter too, but it went missing at some point in time. I have a snow blade here that will fit it, but I'm not sure what I'll need to hook it up to the hydraulic lift. Really happy to have this one!

And here I thought we were just getting started 🐾🐾⛄❄⛄❄

Been sliding a piece of vacuum hose on and filling with oil. Go back the next day and it's lubed to the knob.

Ha you guys whining like a bunch of school girls... This is what I had for an outside temp with the morning coffee...

along the lines of a "patina" restoration here is a 701, I did all mechanicals and only painted the rims, all the metal was scuffed down and hand buffed with Johnsons paste wax, it really looks incredible in person, keeping all the original paint and scratches memories, etc.. something you might want to consider being you guys owned it since new. also I attached a picture of my 854 this was an ex pulling tractor I returned back to stock and I cut my grass weekly with it, all the red was buffed and polished and the wheels and seat were painted antique white

I actually found the bolt p/n 911400 the spacer p/n 100309 bushing p/n MW2195 and the pulley p/n MW8821 from the local Toro dealer score, locally sourced 3/16” bar stock and in the process of make a new link. installed new point condenser coil and plug. Put a new fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Hooked up a fuel source and a battery fired on the first couple of turns and no smoke success. started to rewire. And now I noticed hydraulic fluid leaking from the cam box I hope it is just “o” rings. Then I will be able to see if the hydro will work. Never ending on these old machines.

I had a couple of those once of a different flavor. Somehow I woke up one day and they were 6'4" and 240. Enjoy the heck out of it man! What a bug!

Finished both hubs and mounted the wheels, I didn’t realise how narrow it would be compared to my GT14... So left with the quandary of making bigger spacers or modifying the centres I went with the latter. I drilled the spot welds out and beat the crap out getting the first centre out. Holes welded up up ready to grind down I ran out of mig wire, so that’s it for this weekend...

I would love to find a round hood while the kids are still little for them to put around on, but I don’t doubt it one bit, she loves the tractors haha. She’ll be the one that would pick out a “D” series for her own too 😂.

Think I need to clarify something here.I wasn't using the C17. when the rear locked.I had started it and moved it a week or so before.and it was fine.The next time I started it and tried too move it was when I smoked the belt,I actually thought the rearend was frozen to the ground until my son pulled it out of where it was parked and then discovered the rear end was locked up.Again though it was probably in the 40s the last time it moved to the 20s when the belt blew and now it sits n 1-2 ft snow so nothing is going to be done with it for a while.

Pics of the 5-7321 drive belt, and mower deck belt guard .

I've been taking my parts down to bare metal and using an etching primer first then putting regular primer then sending smooth before paint. Then using a rattle can and have had great results so far.

Not to mention all those Projects on hold that's ready for paint. Need some warmth to get back on them, get them reassembled and electrify the heart brining them back to life!

42 til daylight savings. 10 th of March.

Starting to put it together today I did some touch ups along the way of the paint. The anticipation is killing me!

Man I wish I lived closer. To get paid to do something that I enjoy doing....oh I see that he said reputable...lol. Really need to see pics of the 854 in question. I have one that is in line waiting for summer to begin for it's rebuild. That is one of my favorite tractors. Oh and welcome to the forum, I'm waiting to follow the thread on this one.

Those 26in tires you want to run are bigger than you think. Here is a set I made up to go on a 74 roper SS16 I use to pull a 10 in moldboard plow. I had to space them out 4.5in to clear my fenders. I still had to twerk the fenders a little to get 1/4 of clearance. It is a neat look and they work great. A set of turf savers would look really good that wide on the 875. Go for it.

You can use the wet or (light soapy water or windex) method if you are more comfortable with that method. The dry application method is faster and much less messy for me.

Cute! You know she is thinking..."Hey Dad...This Unicorn thing - it's nice and all, but...Where's my Wheel Horse?...Maybe a little Lawn Ranger to start...then when I can reach the pedals, I'll take a C or a D... "

We are home from FL. Daytona Beach to Middleville, in 26 hours total

@Bear G that thing looks terrible! You surely don’t want to be seen on that one. Tell you what, how about a couple of us ole VA boys come and take it off of your hands? That way you won’t have to worry about looking too cool cruising it😂! Seriously, fantastic build! I love the stance!

Absolutely, I make no attempt at denying it haha. She is the most sure of herself, confident, head strong baby I’ve ever encountered. I thought my mom had prophesied my son when she said “I hope you have one just like you some day”.... over the last year I’ve come to the conclusion that she was talking about Little Miss 😂

Only when Mommy and Bubby aren’t around haha. I’m third on her list, but at least I finished in the top 3 😂😂

Well done! That install looks professional! Who’d ya hire?

Welcome thats a good looking 52 year old tractor and great to here it has been kept in the family. There are some sundstrand transmission experts here. I’m not one, but one thing I picked up on is it’s helpful to have tractor running to do transmission diagnostics. So you might tackle the carb to see if you can get it running a little better (while you read up on transmissions). Type “Sundstrand” in the search box and go through the transmission section here for others past repairs. @daveoman1966 is one of our resident hydro guru’s so look for some good info in reply’s to others by him. One area to take a close took at is the transmission mountain plate since it has seen many years of plow duty the tranny mount is a weaker area of these horses and can develop cracks. This is not a deal breaker, and there are many good threads on repairing this As others have said a good fine wet San and buff can bring a lot of paint back. If you want a little more metal protection for a worker, a couple of coats of clear coat is my personal preference. Redo your Horse in the Vendors section has great replacement decals. Of course I also did a full bladt and paint on my sons 312-8 and currently on some suburban. The important think is keep it in the family and make the restoration your own. PS. Any pictures with your grandpa or you as a youth with the tractor would be great to see

I think the guys have you covered so the only thing I can suggest is move to Florida. Yep, as this winter has turned more normal for Missouri, a move south is looking better each passing, freezing day. I just checked yesterday when the temps were warming up to 17 here, it was 53 in New Orleans, 50 in Baton Rouge, 45 in Jackson, Ms,.......Louisiana, Mississippi, or Alabama would be more my choice than Florida, but it would be a few degrees warmer more south you go in that state.

Gary bought the building 11 years ago for his business. He is a Harley man so when we decided to build a bar it had to represent. We had our sign shop here for about 6 years till we retired. Here is a picture of the powder coat room.

Not the horse, but the hauler........ Got bored and made some “carbon fiber” window decals. Now the hauler is official. 👍

😎 beans, my very first garden tractor was CC106 with the "creeper" drive hi/lo box and a 42" deck, was brought up on the cubs, but wanted hydraulics and a brand new one at that so I ended up with my Anniversary 520H March of 1998, I found another 106 near me for sale but will needs lots of TLC, Good luck with your new toy.

Hi. Are you using a spray can primer? I never experience lifting with a 2 part primer using a paint gun. Before primer, I use a pre cleaner or wash well with dawn dish soap . Rinse and dry. I sand with 180 grit or 220 grit if you have it. I sandblast the rust spots or you can treat them with a rust converter spray. Follow all directions on can. Then sand dry rust converter with 220 and clean well with a wax and grease remover. Apply primer. Allow coats to dry per instructions. Temperature is a big factor for drying times. Then I wet sand with 400 grit. Then clean again with the remover. I use a tac cloth to remove lint that the towels might leave on the panel. then apply paint per instructions.

YYEEESSSSS !!!!!!!!!! Said my honey and I agree. 16 degrees when we got out of bed this morning and the high temperature only got up to about 25. late next week the lows are going to be some below zero for 3 or 4 days in a row again. Yeah. We've talked about it. We may be snowbirds a little later in life.....

I had that same problem last year, I went to Kroger and bought a Turkey injector with the screw in needle. Opened it up a little until I could just push the cable cover into it. Then filled the injector and gave it a shot. Takes a minute or two but you will see the oil coming out the knob end of whatever cable your lubing up. I did run into a couple that were really tight fitting but just let it sit overnight up higher than the end and it would work it's way through. For me it was always the choke cable freezing up, that can be aggravating trying to get my plow tractor running.

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Universal-Lubing-Lubricator-Motorcycle/dp/B01GK2RL6C/ref=asc_df_B01GK2RL6C/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312029767170&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17991335427180682607&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003291&hvtargid=pla-556528662717&psc=1 this might be what you want to help in your cable lubing issues, take off at carb end ,clamp it on , elevate it and lube away. pricing and availability is all over the place , this was the best price I found, I asked at H/F and got a puzzled look , but if they had it , it would be cheap. pete

Did the same thing. Much better!

Horn is not a Wheel Horse accessory. D-250 had one standard.( I don't consider the D-250 a Wheel Horse but that is a different story. )

I have a lot of WHs...I also have a lot of area to clear in the winter. i have used gear drives. Experience has taught me there is no better unit for snow removal than a hydro for both plowing and blowing. i used to use a 40hp Case DC3 to rearrange snow flakes.. now only Charger 12s and an Electro16 with a single stage short shoot. Even the slushy mess from last week end was handled by them with ease. It does not shoot the snow 30 ft in the air like the 2 stages but as long as it will move it beyond the driveway that is good enough for me, I am not trying to impress the neighbors. also I live on a hill that is windy. Blowing the snow high in the air is dumb idea for me. Ed is right the ability to fine tune the speed on a single stage eating snow is important and when it comes to plowing the quick reversals and high speed reverse of a hydro are a good thing.

My fix and clean what needs it . The rest of the tractor looks to original for me and I’d keep it original (only original once) . Paint up the rims, get a seat cover from @BOB ELLISON and do a wet sand and buff on your sheet metal. You’ll be surprised how well that paint will shine up . Maybe @AMC RULES and @stevebo will chime in with some help with the paint restoration and some of tractors they brought back without painting . https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/for-sale/seats-for-lawn-ranger-and-655606656855-856875105510751056-r4583/

Welcome to Red Square!!! I will let others talk about cosmetic restoration. I only paint for corrosion control. As to the hydro unit do not be afraid of it. I assume you have change the fluid and the filter. After that there are some things you can do to try to improve perfomance. Check out this manual. It has a diagnostic chart and and "Tune up" Procedures. Click on the fuzzy part and you can download it. For you r governor problem look at this manula

So here is what I am making. ope I like it once it is on.

Shut the roads down they said. Pfft, I’m taking this to work in the morning.

Today I had all my parts lined up and put the transmission back together. Now the hardest time I had was getting the little detent balls to go in on the shifter forks I think I spent two hours. In the process I went to Napa and ordered the seals for it with no problems .

Swapped out the old headlights in the 520H loader tractor for some LEDs. Here’s a before and after picture in my garage with the garage lights off completely. The before shot is actually darker than it shows because my camera tried to compensate for how dark the room actually was. The tractor still doesn’t light up the world but it’s much better than it was before. The wall is about 30’ away from the tractor.

I finally got the templates adjusted and have stayed up past my bed time putting this concept together. I really like the way it turned out. Step 1. prepare your metal dash and powder coat or paint the entire dash plate with whatever color you prefer I chose to try Cowboy's new chrome powder and I think it looks awesome. I happen to think you could do a silver paint or white or maybe even linen beige any of those would look great. Step 2. Get out your decals. the red die cut vinyl (Wheel Horse) decal and apply on the top of your dash. the black letters for the rib are printed on a clear adhesive vinyl which is almost invisible on the chrome powder. It is long, skinny and thin but really pretty easy to lay down on the rib. I found it easier to line up the word ignition centered under the hole for the ignition switch off course. then the throttle lettering will be positioned correctly when laid down. then just work your way back to the left till it is all applied. You should have about a 1/16th left hanging over each end of the rib which you trim off with your exacto knife. Step 3. Remove your black and brushed chrome decal for the bottom of the dash plate from it's backing paper. step 4. position it up against the bottom of the rib with the lock arrow centered over the throttle hole. If it is lined up close to center you will have about 1/16" of decal hanging over the left side of the plate and about 1/4" hanging over the right end and bottom. IT should look like the following image when you turn it over to trim. step 5. turn your plate over and lay the bottom flat against your table (preferably a cutting mat) and trim all excess decal from your plate. then turn it back over and trim out all the holes . BOOM your done!! Much easier to install and you do not have to fight the rib trying to make the vinyl stay down in the creases. What do ya'll think.

I always thought that the late 1960 WH with the narrow hoods were the best looking units except for the steering wheel's position. IMO, it's too close to the dash/hood. So on my 867 I committed a mortal sin and added about 2" to the steering shaft which makes it look better (again IMO) and is more comfortable and has a more natural feeling.