Leaderboard

I have had a chance to plow a few times now with the new tri ribs on the front of my horse and just have to say that they are amazing in the snow. I had my doubts before, but after using them I am a believer. Awesome upgrade.

Got the decals installed and when I turned the key the new replacement switch broke. Must be some really thin cheap pot metal inside the reproduction switches? So removed tank and put the original switch back in. This video is the first ride on my 857

I think the guys have you covered so the only thing I can suggest is move to Florida. Yep, as this winter has turned more normal for Missouri, a move south is looking better each passing, freezing day. I just checked yesterday when the temps were warming up to 17 here, it was 53 in New Orleans, 50 in Baton Rouge, 45 in Jackson, Ms,.......Louisiana, Mississippi, or Alabama would be more my choice than Florida, but it would be a few degrees warmer more south you go in that state.

Well here they are. Satin finish black on brushed chrome. Laminated, Cut and ready to install. Just finished cutting this morning Hope to get to the shop today to install and post pictures. I will make a set with linen beige and black tonight just to see if they look as nice as I think they might.

Gary bought the building 11 years ago for his business. He is a Harley man so when we decided to build a bar it had to represent. We had our sign shop here for about 6 years till we retired. Here is a picture of the powder coat room.

item #22 part number 7235 spring cylindrical is what makes it work. With age that spring can get weak or break then it acts like a typical open differential

Yes, if this is an 8-speed manual (I can't speak for hydros, at all). Your trans. fluid could be freezing and causing your problem. Can you get your tractor into a warmer area before you try to drive it next time? And if it hasn't been done in a while, it would be a good idea to drain and flush and replace your trans. fluid. Also, check the rubber boot around the gearshift lever, and replace that if it's at all damaged, that's probably where water is getting into the trans.

I picked up the March issue of Diesel Power magazine, and found this! It’s only taken 10 months since I submitted and about a month ago I gave up hope. This was taken long before it hauled 4 tractors or trekked to PA.

That girl definitely sounds to running fast Terry, Don't suppose there's a tach in the shop? Check your spring settings on the gov. Also check the high end throttle stop... lemme go get a pic of that. See if you have something like this.

I live in the Marcellus Shale Gas area. I am surrounded by gas pads and pipelines. The companies have to bond the paved state highways so they prefer to use the township dirt roads when ever possible. Fixing up a dirt farm road to with stand the heavy equipment and volume of traffic is a big undertaking. When they put the pad in next to me they had to fix up my road (which shows up on a 1853 map). They have to move in the drilling rigs then the fracking equipment and then several million gallons of water. During the frack 800-1000 triaxle water trucks went by my house every 24 hours from September to late January. To prep the road they brought in a strange machine. (I can't find the pictures right now) It was about 35-40 feet long 8ft wide had 4 large tires one on each corner and was essentially a giant rototiller. It moved very slowly and dug down 12-18". It bounced around as it it big rocks under the road. I asked the operator what happens when it hits the big rocks he said something breaks ...either the rock or the machine. The shuttled in dry bulk cement trailers which transferred the dry portland cement which they blew into a straight rig truck that had a spreader on the back. He went over next spreading the dry powder then the rototiller went back over it mixing the portland in. Supervisor said they put almost a bag equivalent of cement for every sq yard of road. Next was a sheeps foot roller and then a long period of vibratory roller work. The road work was almost 2 year ago now. it has held up really well even after all the traffic. They never put any salt on in the winter I live at the top of steep grade. The sand boxes and semi water tanks had serious issues of traction. They had a chained up road grader 24 hours a day to help pull them up the hill. and between times he scrapped off the snow So if you have a few hundred thousand dollars you could probably fix up your road the same way

Right here... just add Putt Putt.

Rent one of these!!!

Do you have the 1" spacers mounted between the hitch and the axle? I believe the original extension kits had two lengths of carriage bolts so the spacers would be added on the 520-8 to clear the pulley. The reason I know this is my 1994 520-H came with the extensions installed, upon disassembly the blocks were found to be powder coated red. Researching on Red Square I came across a post showing pictures of a newly opened NOS.extension kit with the blocks. Hope this helps

So here is what I am making. ope I like it once it is on.

You do owe it to them to submit a newer picture showing how capable it is of hauling a load.

Hi all, first post here. For the past 12 years I've had my (RIP) Grandpa's WH 1075 hydro. I was with him in 1976 on the day he bought this tractor used. Its been the family "darling" for nearly 3 generations, besides his Starcraft boat this tractor was his prized - or at least most cared-for - possession. Over the recent years the paint has faded quickly despite being garaged, but cosmetics are my secondary concern. Its been my trusty plow tractor for a decade or so, the mower deck rotted/discarded long ago (I have a Gravely WB for mowing) it has amazing torque for pushing big piles of snow but the hydro is getting a bit tired and requires much more throttling nowadays, especially reverse. I need advice for correcting the following: - 10 hp Kohler runs great, always starts, but the governor quit, it'll rev to the moon if allowed. Carb float sticks occasionally, leaks a little fuel (even has dings on the bowl from Gramps tapping it). And I might rebuild it from the bottom up if you all can point me in the right direction of a reliable parts/gasket kit and manual. - The hydro drive is getting a little weak, what are my rebuild options? Would prefer a knowledgeable local St Louis shop, anyone know of a good option? - Once the mechanicals are up to snuff I'll move onto a partial (not full tear-down) sandblast and refinish. Anything I need to be aware of here? Seems simple enough.. blast and basic refinish with single-stage red.. Anyway.. this is where I start. Your thoughts are greatly appreciated. Thanks, Rob Ps.. I'm good with my hands, have tons of quality tools and a space to work, so other than diving into the hydro transaxle I'm good to go.

On older wheel horses if you take the air cleaner plate off carb and when you reinstall it one out of 4 screws is shorter. Make sure the screws are in proper spot longer screw will interfere with choke internally. It will rub on the rod holding choke butterfly.

If you ever have the opportunity to pull the cables apart coat the wire with Sil -Glyde silicone grease. No rust, no wash off, no more problems.... This stuff has many uses....

Borrow the wife's hair dryer and heat the whole cable spray WD 40 on the exposed ends and work it back and forth also find the lowest point and move a bit of the plastic over coat..(lets any water seep out...

Hope this helps

I'll have to post some pics of the Posseville bar. This place was a Pontiac garage back in the 50's and 60's

Didn't notice Ritchie too busy eyeballin the fridge fer a cold one! Not that you mention it tho would be a nice indoor archery range!

Poor man's tri rib is wrapping #40 roller chain around the front tires. Install them tight around the center on a deflated tire, add air to tighten them up. Deflate again to remove if needed. It's done on ALL my snow machines and significantly reduces front slide for plowing or blowing.

They are not lockers but they are in my opinion a huge improvement over open differentials for snow duty. all my snow horses are the hydro version with the spring. They impress me with how much they can push with both rear wheel spinning at once.

@Sarge covered it well. When I changed oil in my 1974 C-160 there was an unbelievable amount of black sludge. The old filter was a red Toro one so I suspect it had not been changed for a long long time. So I picked the front up and let it sit to drain a little more sludge out. Then I set it back down and flushed some diesel through the bottom of the case and picked up the front and let it drip out to drain it well. I did not run it as I didn't want to get diesel in the hydro pump, motor, valves. I would only do the diesel case flush if it had a lot of sludge, like mine did. I got about 3-3/4 qt of Mobil 1 10/30 in it and it showed full on dipstick. I ran it and it self primed. Drove it around and added more oil several times. It took about 4-3/4 qt oil total. Since it was so dirty, I ran it about 10 hours light duty work and then changed the oil and filter again. After another 30 hours of hard work, oil still looks clean on dipstick. Its now a strong worker.

Interesting the larger pulley (inner one) is the same size on both the 6" and 7" PTO measured at the bottom of the V. however the smaller pulley(outer one) is significantly different. 6 " is 2-1/2 inches and the 7 " is 3-1/4" Again measured at the bottom of the v. So no speed changes for the mower decks but the 7" will speed up your Snowblower

Add a snorkel and you're all set for deep sea exploration, NICE TRUCK

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?&q="hl-6"&type=downloads_file&search_and_or=or Have never seen where a horn was an option. Garry

Eric, On my '77 C160 the long bolt holds the choke cable clamp, and I believe it is the original clamp and cable. On my '77 B80 the bolt and clamp are missing but it looks like the cable was attached there to a some point. Also on the B80 it looks like the fuel line and choke cable may have been connected together there with the wiring harness running along the inside of the channel. I'll try to get some pic tomorrow with the wife's phone, my 10 year old flip phone won't do it .

RedSquare Like... "Ace The helpful Place"

I think the reason why they put a horn on it was to honk to get the green ones out of your way!!

Yes, until @Save Old Iron appeared here there were many things lost on us in the electrical realm - especially those old school electro-mechanical regulators for the starter-generator systems. His knowledge and willingness to test/verify/repair those things were amazing - even bigger, was his ability to explain it in layman's terms to us to understand them. I sent a couple of non-working regulators to him during a project to understand what could fail in those original Delco parts - it boiled down to dirty contacts. He even researched and figured out what metals were used to make those contacts and almost made the decision to buy a quantity to start repairing them. But, in the meantime, new market replacements became available and cheap enough to put that project to bed quickly. His generational placement meant he was that magic bullet - old enough to know the older tube/electro-mechanical systems and had stayed keen on learning the new systems along the way. That is rare, like older mechanics that in one job can rebuild/tune an old points distributor and the next job diagnose and repair a computer controlled efi system. Those types of folks don't last very long historically - time and age gets to them all in the end. I have no idea where he went or what happened to him - he just dropped off the site completely. I have yet to see any postings about any contacting him to date since he disappeared, which is really sad. He was a very valued member here and a lot of entertainment - especially with the squirrels. I have searched around here until I'm blind, I had his name/address/phone numbers saved somewhere, but cannot find it. Sarge

A larger diameter drive pulley will increase the belt speed and the driven pulleys RPM.

That's awesome, I do have to agree with Richard though, I think they need a follow-up with the above pic to show its true abilities

No woodgrain this time. But I do like the wood grain decals and I know a guy who can make me some if I change my mind.

I like em both but this one makes it look fasstterrr!!!!!

About 5:30 last night my father in law called, my jokingly nature was quickly distinguished when I learned that my mother in law had been hit by a truck checking the mail. I made the 6 or 7 mile trek to their house in about 4 minutes, to find her in the ambulance and police taking statements. A vehicle was stopped in the road to turn left into a private drive directly across from their driveway so she proceeded to open the mailbox. A too fast to stop truck decided it safe to pass the Tahoe on the right, clipping her. I was so relieved to see her in that van moving her legs and able to focus and speak. Those are things we brag about when babies start growing. We shouldn’t have to be excited when the rest of our family is able to perform those functions because someone wasn’t paying attention, or driving too fast. She’s got 6 broken ribs and a punctured right lung with some air in her chest cavity, but expecting 6-8 weeks of intense pain and a full recovery. Call your parents, or kids or siblings. Remind them that you love ‘em. I’m glad to still have that ability today.

10-4 on the short bolt on the air cleaner, have ran into that problem. I worked for a line building const. co. and the big wire pulling rigs had Several big Morse type cables controlling the hyd. functions and they would get stiff. Morse made pump that would slip over the cable with a hose and pump. It would fill the cable with a special lubricating fluid,freed them up. Well why wouldn't a smaller version work on our cables, so with a small hose slipped over the cable and secured with a clamp and the other end slipped over the spout on a hand pump oil can. Well with a couple of pumps and moving the cable in and out it flushed the rust and crap out of the cable and they worked like new.

Anti seize also works well for this.

Welcome thats a good looking 52 year old tractor and great to here it has been kept in the family. There are some sundstrand transmission experts here. I’m not one, but one thing I picked up on is it’s helpful to have tractor running to do transmission diagnostics. So you might tackle the carb to see if you can get it running a little better (while you read up on transmissions). Type “Sundstrand” in the search box and go through the transmission section here for others past repairs. @daveoman1966 is one of our resident hydro guru’s so look for some good info in reply’s to others by him. One area to take a close took at is the transmission mountain plate since it has seen many years of plow duty the tranny mount is a weaker area of these horses and can develop cracks. This is not a deal breaker, and there are many good threads on repairing this As others have said a good fine wet San and buff can bring a lot of paint back. If you want a little more metal protection for a worker, a couple of coats of clear coat is my personal preference. Redo your Horse in the Vendors section has great replacement decals. Of course I also did a full bladt and paint on my sons 312-8 and currently on some suburban. The important think is keep it in the family and make the restoration your own. PS. Any pictures with your grandpa or you as a youth with the tractor would be great to see

I have a lot of WHs...I also have a lot of area to clear in the winter. i have used gear drives. Experience has taught me there is no better unit for snow removal than a hydro for both plowing and blowing. i used to use a 40hp Case DC3 to rearrange snow flakes.. now only Charger 12s and an Electro16 with a single stage short shoot. Even the slushy mess from last week end was handled by them with ease. It does not shoot the snow 30 ft in the air like the 2 stages but as long as it will move it beyond the driveway that is good enough for me, I am not trying to impress the neighbors. also I live on a hill that is windy. Blowing the snow high in the air is dumb idea for me. Ed is right the ability to fine tune the speed on a single stage eating snow is important and when it comes to plowing the quick reversals and high speed reverse of a hydro are a good thing.

I was reading your thread and see you used geotech fabric? My son used it on his drive and they don't even salt it and they have sinking areas. I used tensar under a layer of #3 rock then chocked it with #2. works very well. We were going to pave it but that would just be a waste of money, it is solid.

adding to Dane's post.... So far I have: 1955/1956 --Both years used single-piece channel frames, and a belt-drive system with "POND" stamped on the rear axle. RJ-25 came with a Briggs Model 8 (?)[2.5hp], while RJ-35s came with a Kohler K-90 [4hp], or Clinton B-1200 [3.6hp]. Both years used a simple grill, with no name or extra designs added. RJ-25s came with Fiberglass hoods, all others were steel? Cast steering wheels Black painted rear wheels RJ-25 had 2 piece/split front wheels? I know something was a little different about them from the later RJs. 1957 --Nearly identical to the previous two years, but without the option of the Briggs engine and the Wheel Horse name was added to the grill. 1958/1959 --RJ-58 and RJ-59 used a "new" 3-piece uni-drive transaxle [Model 5003], as well as a "new" welded angle-iron frame. The Clinton model engine changed to the model B-1290 --which was still a 3.6hp engine. Started using the later steering wheels..... same as the later Suburban's. (All to this point use a straight, iron front axle and carry the RJ designation.) 1960 --Model 400 and 550 introduced, using the same frame as the '58/'59 tractors and using a cast-iron "swept" axle. The tractors also used a similar trans, the model 5010. A Kohler K-91 [4hp] or Tech/Lauson(?) Model H55B-1170 [5.5hp] was available. More designs were added to the hood and grill in this year. Yeah, Oliver2-44 mentioned something about the belt guards. 1960 used a larger belt guard which had a single reinforcing "rib" in the middle of it. The brake band mounting on the transmission case changed from the RJ's to the Suburban's. On the RJ's the tab on the trans for the brake band was vertical, on the Suburbans, it was at a 45 degree angle. I think the designation on the transmissions changed slightly also. Even though they were still the 3 piece transmissions. The RJ's with the straight tab for the bands were the #5003, and the Suburban's (1960-61) with the angled brake band mounts were the #5010 transmissions. More info here: 1961 --The model 401 was virtually the same as the '60 400 --only a model-year newer. The throttle was changed to a push-pull style knob. The 551, on the other hand got a trans upgrade, to the "new" 2-piece unidrive transaxle and was available with a Tech/Lauson(?) Model H55D-2113 [5.5HP] --an electric start engine. Introduction of the first "front engine mounted" tractor, the 701 Mostly all new design. Used the same 2 piece transmission as the 551 (I think), and had a Kohler K161 7hp engine. The 401's and 551's used a different label/sticker for the serial numbers. Instead of the previous years (1960 serial on throttle lever plate), '61's used a decal on the right frame rail. I believe this applied for the 701 models as well. 1961 Belt guards differed from the 1960 guards by adding another reinforcing "rib" which was perpendicular to the '60 rib making it look like an upside down "cross" when mounted on the tractor. Hood decals were different from the 1960's 1961 'burban foot rests were different also. In 1960 they used a "diamond plate" style foot rest, where in '61 they were cast.

RS is far better than ACE - it doesn't push Chinese built garbage...lol. Sarge

my new house I have to cut a sump pump in. not looking forward to it. can't do it til drys out more, I am afraid with the hydraulic pressure right now I will have old faithful in the basement, I just got a neat little saw I can dry cut with and hook up to vacuum

So after searching for a few days I stumbled across a set of 26-12-12 tires. However they are aggressive atv tires. But the size is right to put my chains on. Best part is they were only used for about a month and I got the pair for only $50. I remember plowing with my atv when I still had it and I never had any issues pushing anything. No extra weight and it weighed about 250 pounds less than my d 200. The big difference was it had a solid rear axle so both rear wheels were pushing instead of one. Should get it all setup this weekend so we shall see how it goes

On my snow plow tractor I do occasionally use down pressure to bite into harder snow or places where it has been driven over by a vehicle. I have no real way of measuring how much extra pressure is being exerted but I wonder if, considering you are going to be using a winch, you could put some free weights on the plow or something along that line?

I have a couple sets of those, not sure if they are complete though

Now ya know that right there is why this site is Sooooo Awesome!! That is just plain helpful.