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This is the Template of the FRAME PLATE repair set of angle iron that I've used with great success. No welding required. You will need to replace the 4 original frame bolts with ones that are about 1/4 to 3/8" longer.

They can be any model:

Can't answer your question directly but.. The K90 is probably worth more than the K91 I've seen updraft oil bath filters sell for ridiculous money so that's something to look for. Most I see for sale don't have a recoil starter on them so that's always a plus. MORE so if it has a Schnake recoil. I buy them when I see them at $100-$150. running. Have bought some cheaper but they weren't running. Definitely don't see them for sale as often like they were in the past. When you say " regardless of what it was installed on or how it was used??? ", some had 6:1 reduction gears

Finished tacking it up!

well. I don't even know if I should tell you folks this here but I don't see any problem with the above vehicle. Hahahahahahha not only do you bunch of five-year-olds not help me with my supposed addiction to Wheelhorse that I'm still trying to deny but now you have me thinking about building crazy vehicles like that. seriously though. I think the chances are nearly 100% that both of us will be taught to weld by our mutual best friend. One of our fellow hikers. She is actually a professional fabricator.

My first snow machine was a Little Dipper with a front end loader great machine that made some very large piles of snow these huge piles lingered long after the natural fall had melted another problem is finding enough space. Second snow blower was a Kubota two stage front mount that I had modified onto a Grey Mkt Kubota as a 3 point rear mount,,with the rear mount was able to make short radius turns and the snow was spread out over a greater area eliminating the huge piles. My current snow blower is a front mount attached to a Simplicity 9020, this is a single stage blower often refereed to as a thrower, the radius on my turns is much wider and have to maneuver several times to make the same short turns that I once mastered easily with the rear mounted blower. The Simple blower is very well built on the downside it is not an easy implement to attach or remove from your tractor, so I have dedicated the 9020 as a snow machine then when a Allis 720 with a front end loader was offered to me I had purchased this as well. The trails are for the wife so she is able to walk the dog and our tag along cat, and all sorts of game coming onto the property also prefer using the trails.

The fuel tanks under the seat came about in 1978 I believe. My C141 has the plastic tank under the seat.

The first under the seat gas tanks and rubber motor mount tractors were the 1978-79 C-series.

In addition to the sheet metal changes to the "Cs" in 1980, I believe this was also when the fuel tanks were relocated under the seat. IMO, this was one of two poor design changes WH made. It causes hard starting due to fuel pumps losing prime and restricts cooling air flow around the hydros. The other was the rocker plate engine mounts. I could never see a difference in the vibration.

My father in-law stopped by last night, he said that work has been crazy busy with their move (where I got all the racking for my back barn) but he cleaned up the welds on the fuel tank and started welding it again. He said it’s welding pretty good! I hope it’s back on Frank soon!

Just a bit snow today morning....

Ed, Cleat, Sarge, Jeff, Pfrederi, John and Oiluj52: I just want to go on record to say that should anything come of this thread and Eric starts another "Terminator meets Transformers" project you guys will be held personally responsible for his mental stability and financial well-being! He's already half cracked and has an extremely well honed sense of frugality. Suggesting he build a modified front end loader/snowblower is like giving a kid a BB gun and sending him to the chickenhouse. You just know there's going to be blood! Trina: Let it be known that I did NOT encourage Eric, this time. I will, however, stand back and actively poke him with a stick while he noodles on how to build this self-propelled snow howitzer. Cheers to all...! Dave

I hooked up the wagon to the 312-8 went over to the farm and cut some fire wood from a downed tree. I didn't take any pictures so I know it didn't happen, but a load of fire wood appeared out side the basement door.

Then there is this guy with the Briggs twin. Mine does not have the Briggs anymore though.

The under-hood tank on the C-160 holds approximately 2.5 gallons.

With tapered cranks that don't accept an engine an engine pulley.

Nice. We have a bunch of deer here in the woods. The trails we've been clearing to use the tractors in there are partially deer highways.

If you check out the postings people are asking more than $400 for so called running k91's and around $150ish for ones that are less than complete. The last one that I bought I paid $140 for locally. It ran but... every mosquito for a 2 block radius was instantly killed or chased away by the cloud of smoke that spewed out of it when I started it. I have not found any rebuild kits for these so all the parts need to be purchased separately "if you can find them". After spending another $300+ I rebuilt mine and had it running like new. As a note Kohler has been continually discontinuing parts for these and the after market companies don't seem to be picking them up.

I have a C160 parts tractor that has this large overhead valve or ignition tecumseh on it. At least thats what l believe it is. I have been wrong once or twice. I had considered trying to mount it on the short frame that your picking up. That idea was short lived.

Until the Christmas break, my son and I have not had much time on our Wheelhorse’s. We wanted to get our D-160 running, which is a bit of a rare beast in the UK. Now that we have it running, we have started to think about returning the exhaust to a more standard configuration. A while back I was told that a B&S muffler part no. 291519 works well but sadly this part is no longer available. I also need to do the same for our D-200 so whatever solution I go for needs to be easily repeatable. Before I start to either make something or adapt a car muffler, I wondered what others have done for a D-Series and/or what advice people can offer. Thanks in advance. My son has created a video of our D-160 which I would like to share

Sort of. The frame, steering, motors and transmissions pretty much stayed the same. The sheetmetal and a few other things changed over the years. A) The first machines referred to as a “C” series and were the same each year were the 1974-1977 units. B) The 1978-1979 “C” series looked real close to the previous machines with a few changes. C) The 1980-1984 “C” series were very different looking (same mechanicals as previous years) . 1984 was the last year a “C” series was offered. Machines made after 1984 were called the 300, 400 and 500 series. There were also a couple of oddball “C” series machines produced after 1979 such as the Gt2500 Anniversary model and a couple others.

He has the seals and all the goodies you need. https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/hydraulics.html#!/Hydraulic/c/23548048/offset=12&sort=normal

I had one like that I got from my boss. That is an older model that doesn't have a way to put the tines out of gear. I tried using it once and didn't like how close the tine were to my feet and legs. Sold both tiller and blade and advised new owner not to use blade. I have one now that the tines can be put out of gear, but don't have the blade. Here is a picture of the later model with PTO engagement.

All done took about 15 mins finished

Scored a 9' long stainless steel table top for 60$ that'll get turned into a bench and replace a tired old benchtop.

I needed that part a few months ago, and found one on ebay. It wasn't worth the trouble of trying to fabricate one myself. I think that there is still one available, brand new, on ebay. Good luck. Jim

Yea, Eric need to be prodded along. He also needs to take a course in welding or Honey maybe both. I don't know how well he has been schooled on Redneck Thinking, and Getting The Job Done With What You Have On Hand. I'm sure a lot of us can help him along on those department. I can see it all now a "D Series with a Ford 300 cubic inch six cylinder with a Predicator carburetor " 10 speed truck transmission, with duel 20" tires in the rear with a 2 speed rear differential. Help me out here with more ideas!

I agree with cleaning it well. I chiseled off all the flakes and washed with detergent and degreaser. Folowed up with a poly abrasive brush and washed it again,-- but did leave some "smooth" rust on [i think it actually bonds better to tight rust than bare metal if I remember the application directions] Just for fun i did the pathetic little MTD motorcycle battery holder and it came back nicely. Even some spilled battery acid just beaded up and did not affect things. Not gonna say whether or not POR is better or not, but I am guessing the 2 products are in the same ballpark . But a mower deck is not the space shuttle, and I have a few extras. Not knocking POR at all as I am certain that it is a great product.

10 to 10:30 AM. Scrape with 1995 520H. 1/2 gallon gas.

I used POR-15 years ago on one of my 36 inch three blade, rear discharge mower decks.. it is cleaned off once in a while but not every year ( but I never mow in wet grass). It is still propelling water and rust. The deck must be cleaned well before applying POR-15.

Using a sweepster without an air cleaner on the engine is dumber than dumb. You are going to appreciate the cab. It only takes me an hour or so to do all my sweeping in the spring...but i may be spread out over several days waiting for the wind to die down or shift. You can't change the sweepster angle. you think a face full of snow from a snow blower is irritating try a face full of pebbles grass and dust.

That Agriguard does look good but I haven't used it. I used POR-15 under my deck and after three mowing seasons it's still in great shape. Although many products say you can just get the loose stuff off before applying it's just in me to get the surface as clean as possible.

curious as to what this sickle bar goes to?

As far as the bolt on the back of the pin I kept in place but replaced it with the shoulder stock bolt and will probably add some Loctite to the threads

it's a matter of just being patient, making good contacts and being at the right place at the right time. I am cheap, the last 3 k91's I picked up 2 run 1 needs a rebuild I paid 75 bucks for the 3. as in a previous I am not seeing as many of them out there

Thank you but hopefully have one or two coming.

It would help to drill an 1/8” hole at the end of each crack, that will prevent the cracks from making it to the edges of the plate. Use large washers too, instead of just lock washers. Those tricks will help keep everything intact longer, with or without the angle iron braces. I agree though, the braces are needed but the frame doesn’t look catastrophic.

If it works the ignition module is worth money

7 to 8:30 AM. Snowblow 6" nice snow. 1 gallon gas, 75 degrees in cab, breezy and flurries now.

You're awesome Dave! Hahahahahahahaha

Three 520's in two months? Musta' hit the lotto.... good deal...

My friend did some great work on the hood. He filled in seven "extra" holes and fixed a few cracks. I then used a DA with 40 grit and a wire brush on the lettering - I need to find something not too aggressive to clean up the rest.

Another update and story on Hoosier eagles: * story credit: https://www.usatoday.com/list/50-States-010919/9fe1e05a-c90c-41b6-8500-fbdc7546fff7/

8 to 9:30 AM. Snowblow 2 1/2" , heavy some fluffy snow, driveway and around buildings. 1 gallon gas, 85 degrees in cab. Light mist, rain now.

Remember Mad Max. He started as a walk be hind tiller and ended up mounted on a plow frame

Fill your tank with French fry oil and come to Pa.

Today I just sought for 1.60 at my local speedway

I used to use the 520H w/tall chute blower to eat thru the road side snow piles. But, my neighbor that shares my stone road, bought a Kubota $WD w/ FEL, so I save the big piles for him.

Ya the gentlemen that shows that particular bolens, has got several really sharp machines. This is a Ride-A-Matic that he fully restored.

The Wheel Horse model 603 was a economy based unit built with out the rear fenders, under seat tool box, cover for the parking brake and was not electric start. The engine was a 6 hp Tecumseh that used the aluminum block (H-60). But the real unique features of the 603 model was the half moon steering wheel and the plastic throttle and choke lever knobs which were only found on the 1963 model 603. Because the 603 was a cheaper model and so exclusive it has because one of the most coveted collector models. Notice though the full round hood as it was first introduced on the 603 as apposed to the other round hoods that had a cut away in the back for the fuel tank. This hood was then used till 1968 in the Lawn Ranger series but also used on the 654. LUCKY FIND ! Wild Bill in Richmond, VA