Leaderboard

Found a few vintage sales ads from the 60s from UK distributor GD Mountfield

Well I bit off a big bite of 2019 already. Couldn’t let @Aldon have all the fun. Went out and traded in the 2011 on a 2018 F150 4x4. Wanted a V8 for towing stuff to NC when we move and something that could drag a little more of a load. So I stepped up. Love this thing already. Have to find out how to deactivate the auto start/stop. I’m already on it.👍

What is the thinking behind under seat tanks having a substantially large section where gas gets trapped and not used? On every tank that I have removed to clean, that area was full of crud and water. Every time you fill an empty tank , new gas is really getting contaminated by the sitting unused gas in that section, particularly if one is bouncing around while using tractor. It was puzzling me why in a perfectly clean tank I was always finding debris until I started taking them out to flush them properly. Has anyone ever thought of installing another outlet in that area and connect it to the main line? There is probably over 1/2 gallon in that section. I am about to do such modification.

Since Scottie started his new antibiotic on Wednesday there has been no relief. His bladder infection is causing him so much pain and discomfort. We have got everything that the doctors can give him for his pain and discomfort while we are at home. The next step is to go back to Rochester and start some IV pain medication and IV fluids. In talking to his medical team we know that Scottie should start having some relief come Monday. If Scottie and I are lucky we may get about 3 hours of sleep a night. Please continue to pray for us as we go through this. Lowell, Scottie, and I would like to say thank you for all the continued support and cards that are coming in for our family. Each day Scottie asks if there is anything in the mailbox for him. (That’s one of his highlights). Too see him light up when he gets a card or anything makes my heart smile.

As normal garage got some organizing and truck got some rear led lights 👀

Last year I built a shelf to hold 2 tractors on top and 2 under. This year I had to expand it to hold 3 on top and 3 the bottom. This frees up a bunch of prime garage space.

It changed here a bit... In last 8h...

Here you go. Just did it kind of quick and saved the first pics found. click to download. Stole June for one of mine own. Seasonal_2019 WH calander.pdf

I’m not so sure this monster will be wheelieing like @Achto Dan’s rat rod... but appreciate any and all input 👍 how’s this? The cardboard is starting to not want so much manipulation, but it is a general idea. You can see the curve of the seat spring on the side panel, it would have about an inch clearance minimum.

Got these yesterday, going to put them on today. Figured I’d share in case someone could get a use out of these too. ~35 bucks from Lowe’s, and they will fit 3/4 or 5/8ths axels. I got these for the Charger 10 for the time being, and they’ll eventually be used on a project that will show up here later this year. When they go on the tractor they’re intended for, we’ll replace the plastic bushings with metal. Ive never seen wheels that were sold with different bushings and what not. Either you got the right one or the wrong one, but like I’m doing, I figured these would be a nice “spare set” for people when you’ve gotta move or use a machine that’s got lame front feet.

Several years ago Oliver2-44 (Jim) replied to ebinmaine (Eric) in a post that a needle scaler would remove large rust scale for some project Eric was working on (when is Eric NOT working on a project, eh?). I have seen needle scalers used in welding shops to remove slag on non-critical welds. They don't do a bad job on heavy 7018 slag if you can handle the tiny indentations they can make. Being a tool guy and currently working to clean and paint the underside of the mower deck on my White GT1855, I started thinking about how to work smarter and not harder. Yesterday, I was looking through the most recent catalog from Harbor Fright and admiring their attempts to confuse me on their prices and prod me into parting with a few hard earned shekels. I saw two sizes of needle scalers and being just slightly less thrifty than my aforementioned friend in Maine, I decided to buy the less expensive of the two. With a 20% off coupon in hand I was able to bring the small HF needle scaler home for $25.43. They also gave me a free LED light to wear on my forehead when I have to go out in the dark to retrieve firewood. Nice folks at HF. Below is a representative video of the needle scaler doing what it does best. My attorney told me that I need to tell everyone that you must wear eye and ear protection when watching this video and be sure to read and understand the owners manual that comes with this tool. Also, be prepared to share the needle scaler if your neighbor comes home from work and sees you using it. He has a few mower decks that need cleaned up, too. Enjoy. Cheers and Happy New Year! Dave IMG_4876.MOV

She's running !!! Next step is to get some oil back in the engine and put some diesel in the transmission. Here's a few pics.

My C-121 (The Black Horse) and C-81 were originally supplied by Mountfield. Both being Belgium built.

I dug this project out of my "I'll get to it some day" pile and am gonna see if I remember how it goes back together. The bare frame had a little rust on it from sitting so I cleaned it up, welded a couple of cracks on the fenders and have all the tires mounted and the front rims painted.

One from British Royal family. princess Alexandra Ogilvy

Put the tool box and fenders back on Putt Putt and realized how dirty it is! Plus, how good it still looks “fully dressed”!

Now, that's a great idea Cas.

Hey there, Jojo, I was raised on the old adage that it's always 'ignition first'. That really doesn't apply in the age of microprocessors and today's complex engines but certainly does on these machines. Ah, the simple life. That engine is missing terribly. You adjusted the points but did you clean and file them? Is the capacitor good? The plug? The narrower gap gives the ignition some advance timing so you can ignore that fine tune at this time. Once you're absolutely sure of the health of the ignition, move to the fuel and carb adjustments. I read that you adjusted the exhaust valve back to spec so that's out of the consideration... Old machines, yes, so they can be a bother (unless you love to work on them like me) but the solutions are usually very simple. I'm nowhere near Kansas but would help if I could. Good luck!

Never fails does it? My daughters car just hit 100k and the water pump went out. Leaks coolant into the engine and you don’t know it till it’s too late. Needless to say I am glad we spent the 2k on the extended warranty. Had to put an engine in it. Would have cost over 5k to fix it without. Hopefully you have no more issues. Nice looking truck there also!

Spent 2 or 3 days catching up from page 27 of this thread... then took a ride on Putt Putt to clear my mind! something about that Tink Tink that soothes the mind!

Trim a little, trace a little... I think I like it! A mix of old and new, thankful to have a couple original pieces as guidelines!

Just checked in on your topic's and see the Stevasaurs made Moderator , I have not met Steve in person but his video on transmissions saved me when I rebuilt my 1054's transmission , now I just need correct tranny oil ! Seriously , I have had the pleasure in speaking with Steve on the phone ….I think he is Dr. Stevasaurus !!!

@formariz said, “I am going to modify a second one by eliminating that tank and setting a tank on the battery location like the older Cs. I will move battery to the usual position on the bottom which will also allow me to use a larger capacity battery with higher cranking amps rating.” That’s exactly what I did on Emory’s Work Horse and it helped starting tremendously since I got the new carb and have it running good. Almost instant starting like with an electric pump without the worry of failure with the electric pumps.

Of course! Need to get a 2.5" drive pulley for the engine, currently using an old C-160 pulley which is about 4" and spins a bit too quick. Certainly not as fun or easy to mount then the other implements, but I look forward to running it. Always wanted one of these things.

I believe I switch that cable, but through the solenoid. I make sure I do that tomorrow. That's a nice WH wagon. Going to a show this summer!? That will get attraction.

I like that truck you have. That's real nice build! Are you sitting on the motor?

A while back Jake Kuhn rebuilt my engine and tranny, they just need cleaned up a little and they're ready for paint. Thanks Jake!

I hope the best for him, that all of this suffering ends soon along with all the worrying and heartache for the family.

Got new shoes on the Charger 10. Once I got them on things looked a little wonky still, so after hemming and hawing between my FIL and myself, and @ebinmaine and myself we took the (left side as your sitting on it) tie rod off to give it a look see. Seems reseating it fixed our problem as it was loose at the wheel when I went at it. Since this one is in rougher shape than our 8horse, and I haven’t really looked it over much I was looking for visible things that could be issues. But I have a curiosity question: is this where the chokes supposed to be hooked in, or should it be at the hole where my finger is? Haven’t had any problems getting it fired up, I just happened to notice that there was a second hole marked “Choke”. *edit: The Misses finally got to drive it 99FF1B18-EA6A-466E-AB71-A68181FC8D40.MOV

I like the curved back Kevin. Go, go, go!

I'm digging your enclosed spring idea.

Enclosed, with fender in the mix. I don’t think it looks too bad being bigger.

Something like this would be nice.

If you want it, you got it... take a pic and work on my horse was a little strong.. not the best issue for my IPad, but i will hand over a pic. maybe next time i able to use gopro.

It’s in good hands now, for the most part!

https://myoldmachine.com/topic/2361-wheel-horse-sickle-bar/

here is a write up I did on it. Any questions, just ask.

Looking really good. Can you tell us about the eaton swap? I have a GT14 I am working on currently and this could be a good option.

I did put these in there but I got the idea from looking at some of the larger farm tractors that had headlights in the fender fronts. I though “I could do that” so I tried it. Came out pretty good I think. Pain in the butt to mount them. Had to cut the front out and build a mount. Like this👍

Steve, you and I have never met before but always enjoy your posts.You do seem like an Interesting character and it may be worth the 1000 mile round I trip to the BS just to meet you in person. Have two questions,now that you are a moderator will the pictures of you on a stick be avaiable on the RS store and is that really just spring water in that nice stainless steel mug with the WH logo on it ? Congrats and good luck in your new capacity. Jim.

@jebbear I used the picture you sent me of the harness that you built to make my own for the 867 tonight. @953 nut and @WHX21 I used the schematic that you folks posted a few months back to wire this thing up tonight. Mother Nature decided to give us some heavy wet nasty snow overnight so we had to spend some time today snow blowing and plowing which I guess I can't be too about in consideration that that was also Wheelhorse time....but because of that I wasn't able to get as much done on this tractor is I had desired. No worries.

This will be a picture “tutorial” of what I did to “widen” an eaton 1100 for my GT14. I wanted to replace the worn out sunstrand that was in it with a newer Eaton I had from a 520-H. The problem being is the stock gt14 rear transmission is 29-1/2” wide from axle tip to axle tip. The eaton is way narrower. I finally lucked out on a fix by accident and this is the way I did it. I will continue to add content as I can. This transmission is out of a 418-A I bought for parts. It is being widened in the same way to go in a 1054 for my wife. First I got it on the rotating stand I built. I then pulled the hubs which was a chore. After I got those off I degreased the transaxle and scrubbed all the gunk off of it. While the hubs were off, I installed lug studs in them, 7/16x20-2” tap bolts. loosen and removed the pump. This will also get a new pump to case gasket (part number 108319) upon reassembly. remove brake hub and bracket Split the case. Be careful pulling the case half off. The brake shaft can come out whith the case and there is a shim under it that can come off and end up in the bottom half. So here it is. The stock Eaton 1100 differential with axles. After you split the differential , you’ll find the left axle is 10” long. The right side axle is 13”. I then cleaned out the lower case and rotated it 180*. I inserted the whole axle/diff assembly into the axle housing backwards. This should give you the longer(right) axle facing up. Remove the four bolts hold the differential together. I removed the top axle, top diff case plate leaving the pinions in the bull gear and lower plate. Now remove the longer(right side) axle from the top differential plate. I then removed the shorter(left side) axle from the bottom plate and insert the longer (right side) axle in it’s place. Now take the shorter axle and toss it. I then took a D-160 axle(16-1/2”) and insert it back into the top differential plate. Reinstall it back onto the bullgear/differential assembly and reinstall the four case bolts. The bolts/washers come through the short side and nuts end up on the long side axle(right). Torque these to 35 ft pounds. If you remove the snap rings and gears off the ends of the axles, pay attention to the snap rings. They have a “sharp”side and a rounded side. The gears are also beveled. The above excerpt from the eaton manual shows the correct installation of these parts. I couldn’t get a camera to focus on the details. Long axle pointing up now. 👍 So now you should have an axle assebly that looks like this. A little over 30” from end to end. More on that in a bit. You see the old left axle laying on the ground. May as well install all new axles seals while it’s apart. These are part number 6449. I found these on ebay for less than $10 a pair. They are aftermarket but look identical to the original seals. They are double lip seals. We’ll see how they hold up. New brake shaft seal. CR 7443. New case gasket (part number 108312). Everything back in where it’s supposed to be. all back together with added width. Should be right about 5-5/16” to 5-3/8” sticking out the left side case. If you pull on the axles they will move back and forth a little. I go by 5-3/8” With that being the case, you end up having to cut about +\- 3/8” off the right side to get it the same as the left side. You will end up using a stock smaller keyway on the left side. You will end up with a larger D-180/GT14 size keyway on the right side. Doesn’t matter what hub you run they slide right on. You can use 4 lug Gt14/953/1054 hubs, 6 lug D series hubs or the standard 5 lug hubs. They all fit 1-1/8” axle shafts. Aldon runs 6 lug hubs on his GT22-8, I have 5 lug on my GT14 with custom wheels. Your choice. The 4 and 6 lug hubs are wider with more surface area on the axle. Again, you have a smaller keyway on one side and a larger one on the other. Just depends on what you plan to do with the tractor your putting it in. People have been abusing eaton 1100’s with the smaller keyway axles. Also, all the puller preferred 8 speed transmissions have the smaller keyways too. Your choice. There you have it. A “widened” Eaton 1100 that will now work in a GT14 (of course the linkage and connecting parts will have to be modified a little). This one as said before will be going in a 1964 1054. That is what has to be cut off for the hub to sit even with the axle. This is what the cut is like. This is after the axle is cut and filed down. That’s it. I have been asked about this several times and wanted to make a video but I don’t have a camera man to help film so I guess this will have to do. Hope this answers some questions that some have had. I’ll continue on later about the linkage if anyone wants to see that. Any questions, ask away.

it would be like NASCAR. Flip the switch and one more lap. (or back to the barn)

Many things will work. However the function of the solution is to provide a good conductor of current for the electricity. What washing soda is and why it is better than anything else is Sodium Carbonate. In addition to that solution being the best conductivity wise is the fact that when you are finished with it and want to dispose of it you can just empty it into your lawn. There are no adverse environmental effects from it to the lawn or you. As a matter of fact due to all the iron in a used solution it is beneficial to the lawn making it a deeper green. I merely screen all the solids from it and spread it on the lawn. After all what good is then having gallons of stuff that is harm full? Just creating more work and a health hazard.

That's awesome. Glad to see you enjoying it. He still owes me a transmission. He "borrowed" the one that's in that tractor cause the one on it was stuck. So I loaned him that one and then he sold it lol. With my OK tho

I’ll try setting the timing based on the mark on flywheel today. I apreciate the advice

I was thinking maybe something like this possibly: https://www.aerostich.com/self-tapping-carbide-tire-studs.html the short one is in the tire 10mm also can use hex head screws

Prayers for Scottie.....

I have used 6" dia. wire wheels and scotch brite pads on a 4.5" angle grinder to clean fins. Make sure you have good protection as the wires break and fly off and if the pads get caught, they explode. My barber found a wire stuck in my ear lobe during a haircut a few years back.