Leaderboard

So as most of you are all aware my significant others actual name is Trina. Some of you probably don't even know that. That would be because I refer to her much of the time as... My Honey. She calls me... Bear.... Originally named so because I snore.... And also it just kinda fits my size and persona.. Lookie here and see the metal sign she found the other day online...

Got a pleasant surprise today. My wife gave me an early Christmas pleasant that she just couldn’t wait for me to open. She surprised me some new decoration for the barn. I think she is starting to understand

Our area of Pennsylvania is 27" ahead of the average annual rainfall. This has raised the water table and caused major flooding. In our town, two homes suffered collaped basement walls when the water column pressure built up on the outside concrete block wall, buckling the mortar joints inward and cascading mud and water into their homes. Behind our house, the subsoil on the sloped hillside became saturated and every time it rained this summer water would sheet down the hill and inundate our backyard. At times we had a full 3" of water streaming around our garage and running over our driveway. I took a round shovel and began ditching drain gutters in our orchard to divert water around the garage and driveway. Digging a full scale diversionary system would have meant bringing in a small rubber tracked excavator. Even the smallest excavator I could rent would have required removing at least one row of heirloom apple trees that I planted when we moved into our home 20 years ago. The solution was to come up with a scaled down trenching solution using the tools I already have - a White GT1855 tractor equipped with a 3-point hitch and a welder. The end product is a guttering tool that I can attach to my tractor and use to plow or scrape a channel behind it. I can use it between the rows of apple trees and under the existing branches. The first pass will remove between 2-3" of turf and soil. Multiple passes will remove more soil. The top layer of turf can be used replace turf in other areas of our yard where the rains this year ruined the grass. i am in the process of laying out my grade elevations with a builders level on 5' intervals so I know how deep to gutter the soil as I traverse through the orchard and around the garage. I'll let you know how it goes. Cheers! Dave This is the "Silver Spade." An homage to the dragline that worked the hills of Ohio for coal years ago.

What she didn't get you one of Ritchies coffee cups.... oops so much for your Christmass surprise My wife is huge into Bear deco... I tell her she could always run around bear a$$ nekid... that went over like a lead balloon..

Got the frame painted last night and it looks pretty good. Sorry, no pics. I also painted the engine red. I know, it should be black, but Emory and I like the look of the Work Horse @stratostar250 repowered with a Kohler. Plus it breaks up the see of gray and black. I just got the first coat of primer on the hood, fender pan, and belt guard. Gonna try to get them ready to paint tomorrow.

https://www.westernjournal.com/ct/incredible-gary-sinise-just-flew-1000-gold-star-kids-disney-world-christmas-surviving-parents/?utm_source=Email&utm_medium=WJBreaking&utm_campaign=ct-breaking&utm_content=western-journal

Ok, if you recognize that phrase, you already know who I’m talking about. Emory found the Taryl Fixes all channel on YouTube first. He loves watching the videos and has learned so much about how a motor works from watching them. I decided to check out Taryl (Tim Gross) myself and found his videos to be quite informative and highly entertaining. If you haven’t checked him out, it’s worth a visit. He runs Tim’s Bonanza service in Demotte, IN. He has access to all of the tools and trappings of a machine shop, but goes over ways to address problems in ways that we can do in our own garages. Here’s yur dinner!

You mean like these? Too late bro chacho. We already own two.

I just made a sign like that for my dad today LOL

I been working on the 552 doing little things here and there. Today I Modified it a little. I drilled and tapped the axles on front end. Now I don't think tires will fall off lol

Jay, it would be easier if we new exactly which horse you have. Some of the information given above is not totally correct. The 1958 & 1959 RJs used the 3 piece #5003 transmission...the mount for the brake band is vertical on the left side plate. The 1960 400 &550 suburbans and the 1961 401 suburban used the 3 piece #5010 transmission. The brake band mount is at a 45 degree angle. The 1961 551 & 701 suburbans used the 2 piece #5007 transmission... While casting dates may give you an idea of what trans you have, it is not a good idea to trust the date for a certain horse. anyone can just change the left side plate and you go from a #5003 to a #5010 or vise/versa. The #5007 and the #5025 are identical to the untrained eye. Let us know what horse you have.

I'd say that's a nice find and that hood for the 701 can be saved for sure. Little bit of time and it could look like new. So i wouldnt give up on the possibility of reviving the 701. Here's a 401 hood I saved.

New game at Jim's plow day. roll the beach ball with your horse and find the prize behind it!

Ya it's not all the way done yet. But there house is covered with bears. So I made him and my step mom two signs for christmas. This is the other one. It's a little out house towel rack.

@formariz, @PeacemakerJack, @Machineguy, @WHX21, @520hC-120, @dells68, @elcamino/wheelhorse, and the rest of , Here's some video (about 9:00 am this morning) of the Anniversary 520H and 2stage "chucker" in action from Diego that was only supposed to leave a trace to an inch ended up 9" in my front yard, Jeff. VIDEO0123.mp4 VIDEO0124.mp4 VIDEO0125.mp4 VIDEO0127.mp4 VIDEO0128.mp4 VIDEO0126.mp4

Just want to tell everyone that got back to me on my question,thanks alot. This forum is a very very good and informative site. I am so glad I found Red Square!

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2Cd9kKYXFakV7ChvU_rjKw The assistant has an interesting phrase on his hat. Stop action might be required to comprehend.

Here's one for reference...

It is actually his wife Jo that makes them and I’m telling you, you won’t find any of higher quality! Her work is second to none!!

I use the 520-8 to push 12 inches of snow on several driveways over the last 24 hours. I was very pleased with the operation of the tractor. The electric lift functioned flawlessly. The 8 speed with the electric lift is certainly superior then the 520h’s that I’ve utilized in the past for plowing snow. I think for now I’ll be keeping the 520-8 and disposing of the 418-8.

Finally started to rebuild this 5025? transmission that goes to the 551 Suburban I am restoring. With @stevasaurus and @Racinbob help I've rebuilt 2 three piece transmission, but this will be my 1st 2 piece case transmission rebuild. I've watched Steve's great videos, and have one question. My input shaft has a little in/out movement. I've learned on the 3 pc transmissions you want to shim the bottom bearing to remove this. Since the input shaft gear to the internal gear on this 2 piece 5025 is the same I would expect i need to shim something? If that is correct what do I shim. Here's some pictures of the disassembly and cleaned up parts. I've received all my new bearings and seals from Motion Industries, except they shorted me one, so I'm waiting on that and the input shimming question to proceed with reassembly. I started by heating and driving out the frozed hitch pin the PO had cut off. My brass flanged shear pin is a much used driver Success! I had flushed the transmission with diesel, so the internals were not covered with heavy gear oil. I used a rare earth magnet (strong) to catch the shifter balls, spring and pin as I pushed them out, worked great! This tractor had set for quite a while. Interestingly the Top Upper half of the transmission case and the upper exposed gears were slightly rusted from being exposed so long I guess. Thankfully so signs of water rust deteoriation on the lower gears. Differential disassembly, I'll reuse the bolts, but have bought new metal (not nylock) lock nuts for reassembly. Is there any torque spec, or just good and tight. Input shaft and shifter gears. The larger shift gear and input gear show wear on there edges. I'm thinking to reuse these gears, but welcome input here. My thought is to do a dry reassembly and see if I can make it jump out of gear The internal mating gear to the input gear looks better than I expected, knowing there was slop on this shaft before I disassembled it. I'll be back to add more picture comments, I just got a Grandpa call to go help my daughter-in-law and watch grandson #1 Jeremy while she takes 10 month old grandson #2 Kent to the doctor with a stomach bug. Im back to finish this. I got some training from grandson Jeremy on how precise you have to assemble gears Brake shaft gears look excellent Differential axle gears look veryhoid The differential pinions are good The small gear (3rd gear?) part of the cluster gear has the most wear These gears all look very good Both shift forks are very good The case internals cleaned up nicely Always like to see the new Regal Red. I tapped the old bearings back in slightly to use as masking post Shiny stainless new case hardware

Got the front grille dents out best I could. The hood is looking sweet. Super happy with the way it turned out. Lots of elbow grease and time but the results are so worth it. Still got a pile of parts that need the same lovin but I gots all winter to make em shine

I would like to see more pictures , how did you bend or shape the spade ?

Sorry for your troubles, Dave.... but that is a nice tool you made!

I finally got a chance to play with my tig welder and make my exhaust. 2.5" 304 stainless with header wrap on it for heat. Lots of stuff to try snaking 2.5" pipe around and out of the way.

Excellent idea! Regarding the actual gutters...

Indiana Dealer the Next YouTube Sensation? March 25, 2015 https://www.greenindustrypros.com/business/article/12058281/taryl-fixes-all-small-engine-repair-and-youtube-sensation

@Holly, don’t be afraid of these tractors. Every part is serviceable and parts are readily available, both new and used. There are several members on here that are excellent engine rebuilders, @oldredrider Is relatively close to me and really knows his stuff, especially Kohlers. I say use it and know that normal wear and tear is fixable at far less than a big box store disposable tractor and Wheel Horses are well thought out dependable machines! Enjoy.

Ok - here's an FYI. Save your money - those cutting edges are just plain A36 or A50 steel from Toro. Nothing special, and honestly far too soft to really be used as a good edge on a blade. 1018 from a welding shop, or something better will be cheaper in the long run, most shops have metalworking hydraulic stamping machines (punch press, ironworker, ect) that can punch the square holes. Otherwise, get a new piece the appropriate size to fit (somewhat thicker is fine, but takes longer to break in to a cutting bevel) and mark out the hole spacing. Drill the holes to either the 5/16" or 3/8" diameter to match the original bolts. Hunt around on Ebay for a four-corner file, or square file (depends on the maker as to it's name). Typical file sizing applies here, for 1/4" square holes you need a 6-8" long square file. Bigger holes can be done with a smaller file such as that, or use a larger double cut 8-10" foursquare for larger holes from 3/8" and up. I can easily file all the new holes out square in a matter of 10 minutes or less with a quality made 4-square file. Beats paying a shop to cut them, or having to buy an ironworker press and die set to do the job. Want an edge that will easily cut dirt, snow, ice, ect??? 1055 high carbon has the right mix for durability and elasticity to not be brittle. Wears excellent (nearly none) and will not wear out - it should outlast at least 5-6 stock Toro cutting edges. Once 1055 gets broken in (a nice, flat concrete drive/parking lot will do the trick) it will easily cut through packed snow and ice without skipping over the top of it, very little down pressure is necessary. In fact, too much down pressure on seal coated asphalt will remove the seal coating . Pre-beveled 1055 steel sources - https://www.discountsteel.com/items/1055_Steel_Beveled_Cutting_Edge.cfm The above does carry 3/8" thickness, perfect for most 42-48" blades. If your blade is badly worn/damaged it can be welded, if properly pre-heated using 7018. https://www.amazon.com/Titan-Cutting-Hardened-Skidsteer-Tractor/dp/B01AYOY2ZA I see the thinnest they carry now is 1/2", pretty serious overkill but it will still work. Roughly the same price as the soft Toro product. Square/four corner files sources - 1/4" - 6" long sizing https://www.amazon.com/Simonds-American-Pattern-Double-Thickness/dp/B00018AGKK/ref=sr_1_5?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1544552031&sr=1-5&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A4637162011 5/16" - 8" sizing, see the pattern? https://www.amazon.com/11088-American-Pattern-Machinist-Square/dp/B0742N9CDQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1544552031&sr=1-6&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A4637162011 A table of Simonds 4-square files and their sizing - great brand/quality, just pick your size https://www.amazon.com/Simonds-American-Pattern-Double-Thickness/dp/B006P2YU3K/ref=sr_1_14?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1544552336&sr=1-14&refinements=p_n_feature_four_browse-bin%3A4637162011 For making your square holes, double cut American pattern will work faster since surface finish is not really important. Another tip - do not buy standard off-the-shelf carriage bolts, most are simply cheap Grade 2, far too soft to do the job. Get quality Grade 5 from Fastenal or similar. It only takes about 10-15 strokes to cut a pre-drilled round hole to shape it into a square hole to correctly fit a carriage bolt. On higher carbon steels such as 1055 - use cobalt bits and a correct, slow rpm with plenty of cutting oil. Take your time and be careful, cobalt bits are brittle but can withstand cutting harder steels. You will find a ton of uses for those square files once you own them and learn to use them properly. Never, ever apply pressure to cut on the pull stroke, only on the push stroke since that is how files are designed to cut. Putting pressure in the direction that you need to cut the hole will produce a factory-looking carriage bolt hole quickly. It comes in quite handy when making new parts for our old equipment or fabricating new items. Cheap solution, long lasting results, gotta love that. Sarge

Thank you all for your opinions on the machine . Mows4three had a good idea , I read the article and picked up that Tom Mascaro the inventor was connected to a company in Florida where his son John is still active . I contacted him and he was gracious enough to identify the machine as a Power Drag for leveling sand traps after they were aeriated . apparently the long orange boom was lowered and the machine moved in reverse and leveled the sand.

The transmissions for 58, 59 RJ's & early Suburban's had a three piece case. Cast iron centers with steel plates on each side. In '61 they came out with the 2 piece all cast case, I'm not sure on the ID/casting numbers on those. Maybe @stevasaurus could help out with that. A picture of a 3 piece from a '60 Suburban.

Hey Mike, If the rear half of the frame rails are parallel, it is a long frame, if it is Vee shaped from the front to the rear axle, it is a short frame.

What about horse volleyball? Soccer? By the way @Chris G, nice job! You’re very talented! Very nice surprise there @ebinmaine!

Not being a good horseaholic Jabel... there's a bikini in front of the beach ball!

Cant hear much over the roar of the Onan, sorry to hear you didn't have a plow on, this was the biggest snow before Christmas in a very long time around here that I can remember.

Glyptal is what we used to coat all our oil filled adjustable blade hubs and servos in the hydro turbines.

Finished welding repairs and cleaned up the rest of the frame and engine. I’ll try to post pics tomorrow - just braced the fender pan mount and patched the battery tray from a ranger. I did bodywork the dash tower and get it primed. Hopefully a little paint on it tomorrow😀. Pretty happy for tonight though.

Winter is here and its time to go through my c81. Its got a couple issues that need attention, oil leaks, motor mount, clutch sometimes slips, fuel system and tank cleaning, sloppy steering. Some other small things and a good tune up. This is my daily driver I mow the lawn and do yard work with and I dont want to paint or "restore" it. I am however considering putting a nice patina finish on it and fixing the dents. Figured I would post some before pics and update as i go along.

Hey everyone, got myself a horse finally, 312-8 early one, it’s got a kohler 12 hp k series. Any info on it, manuals, parts manual, it’s got the unidrive any issues about these? It’s sat outside 20 or so years and not too good condition, im determine to get it running. Thanks

Ok, here's the rest of the back story... I recently bought a 6' category 0, 3-point back blade for the White GT1855 I got this summer from a buddy. The intent was to cant the blade lower on the right side (facing the tractor from the back) and use it to clean out the side of the road drainage ditches at my camp and at our farm. The left side of the blade would basically hang in the air and just be along for the ride. To lessen the weight of the entire blade (after all it is only a cat 0 hitch), I cut off 16" of the left side, square to the top and bottom of the blade. One night I was trying to figure out how to solve my problem with the backyard drainage. I have a Brinly turning plow that could do the job, but the sides of the gutter would still require profiling by hand and the turned soil would be broken up by the action of the turning plow, making cleanup a PITA. I started to think about making something similar to a round tipped shovel towed behind a tractor like an old fashioned horse drawn plow. That's when I remembered the section of the back blade that I had cut off. The curved shape was already in the blade and it was 1/4" thick so it could withstand the torque, shearing and frictional forces that I am sure it will be subjected to. Once I got the tool built, I decided to also go the extra mile by purchasing some Blue Demon 7000 hard facing electrodes. I already applied a bead to the leading edge of the shovel point, but I'll probably put down two more beads on the underside of the cutting edge for good measure before I grind the whole edge to a shallow profile. The shortened back blade will someday have some 14" deep x 12" high x 1/4" thick ends welded to it, turning it into a box blade. I'll reinforce the leading edge of the ends by tying them together and into the main hitch members with a piece of 2" x 2" square tubing. I added some additional photos for you guys below. You can see in one of the photos that I had planned to use four pieces of 3" x 12" x 1/4" plate to secure the blade to the carrier arms. I changed my mind and decided to use a solid 10" x 12" x 1/4" plate for the rigidity it would add and the ability to discharge soil in one ribbon out the back of the spade. I like the altered design better. Now, to get the Silver Spade painted and then take some action shots. It's supposed to rain for three days at the end of the week. Timing couldn't be better. Cheers! Dave

I have RV antifreeze in several tires, some have tubes and some have regular tubeless tire valve stems. The adapter can be picked up at Tractor supply for about $ 10.00 and a little drill operated pump or a pond/fountain pump will transfer the liquid. SIZE GALLONS Per Tire WEIGHT in POUNDS 16x6.50-8 2.0 21.4 18x7.00-8 3.0 32.1 18x8.50-8 3.4 36.4 18x9.50-8 4.0 42.8 23x8.50-12 5.5 58.9 23x10.50-12 6.8 72.8 6-12 3.6 38.5

I hate posting to this thread, especially when an incident I'm reporting on involves me. Last fall I rebuilt the Sundstrand hydro from my Allis Chalmers 720 which previous owner had towed destroying the pistons on the motor end, I salvaged replacement parts from a Cub Cadet the "U" style hydro that uses the same piston and motor blocks. Expected air to be an issue but then you do not have a fluid bench the next best thing is to install the hydro which is what I did, then bleeding the implement and other ports while turning the engine over on the starter. The tractor is hanging off a chain hoist with both rear wheels removed and I watching for a hub to turn, after many repeated bleeds nothing is happening as it should so I'm thinking that I'll have to remove the hydro and go back through it with a fine tooth comb. A project scheduled for warmer weather so it has not been a priority. Now for the senior moment, tractor not only has hydro but three speed manual transmission and the darn thing was in neutral and this is why the hubs weren't turning. Procrastinating on removing the hydro paid off in spades

An excellent point stevasaurus - the seller indicated it came from a 1960 400. The picture he posted matches the photo shown above for the same year/model. The pics were extremely helpful - many thanks guys! It'll be mine shortly and I'll have this as my 'first piece'. Guess that seals the deal - I'm probably a goner now...

I ordered a new steering tube (the piece that goes below the steering wheel between it and the hood stand) and the previously mentioned flanged bearing. Still need to try and get the steering wheel off. I have read some horror stories, but will give it a shot and report back. I have been wanting Ag tires for the longest time now over the course of many tractors. I felt like this was the first to really deserve them. I poked around and decided on the Carlisle Tru Powers in 23x10.50-12 due to supposedly running the largest in that size and IMO looking the best. I found them for 99 bucks each on Amazon, but since there is an Amazon warehouse in CT, i pay sales tax, so i was looking at 211 delivered. As i was looking around, i got an email from eBay with a coupon for 10% of anything! I had some play money in my paypal, so to ebay i went to see what kind of deals i could find. I found them for 210 for the pair, less 10%, which put me at 190 or so shipped for the pair, no sales tax, and i had them in 2 business days. Awesome!! Here they are sitting next to my new seat. Thanks @peter lena So my plan is to get the rest of the paint off the chrome wheels and get them shining again. I will then be installing the ag's and taking them to a tire shop to be filled with Rim Guard, which is essentially beet juice. 23x10.50's are specified to fit approx 7 gallons of fluid in each, which makes sense, as that is about the amount that it took to fill my last set with windshield washer fluid. Referencing this website: https://countrysidenetwork.com/daily/homesteading/tractors-farm-equipment/ballast-the-tractor-tire-fluids-rundown/, i can assume that WWF is the same weight as water @ 8lbs/gallon, so i was looking at approx 56 lbs in each rear. Per the same website, it states that rim guard/beet juice to be 30% heavier than water, yeilding a weight of approx 73 lbs each. This is confirmed on Rim Guards website. I found a local spot that does it for 2.79/gallon. Comparing that to the general price of windshield washer fluid at 2 bucks/gallon, i would be saving less than 14 bucks. I figure it is worth my time to try the Rim Guard. I hope to get that done and some pictures up on Saturday. I picked up some Cub weights as well (~35lbs each), and plan to bolt those to the INSIDE of the wheel, so i can continue to show off the chrome through the winter.

Plow Plow Plow a little Snow Snow Snow....☃❄️ Hehehe, first test was made - so far yes, it works. not on all circumstances, but good enough for my needs actual. We have just a few cm Snow and i went out for a Testdrive - what else- and my Plow works nice. Even the Traction on my Tyres was better than i expected if Plow is down. When Plow is lifted, i feel the beginning miss on rear weight, because Tyres begin to dig. Shure, if there was much more Snow i need definitely more weight on rear Axle, that tuc tuc will push harder but i'm amused of the Fun, Snowplow can make. . if i provoke it, i can easy make a Burnout behind the Plow.... 😂😂 Plow the Way upwards - bit uphill- was not usefull possible, here i missing Wheelweights. without Plow, i can drive carefully without slip. Happy with first Result. Hope it snows more, that i can do more tests, So a bit of setup have to be done

Hey I come up with em every now and then !!

Now your giving custom ideas here Crib... a long frame round hood?!?!?

First and foremost I'd like to correct you. You stated Dumb question That was NOT a dumb question There is only ONE dumb question That is the one you Did Not Ask... Now to answer your actual question. Both. Some tire dealers and other folks will tell you that you do need specific valve stems but most people will tell you that you can use any tube or valve stem you want. It just slows the process down a bit.

There are certainly many many others on this website that know far far more about Wheelhorses than I do but to the best of my knowledge any Kohler engine from any Wheelhorse of any model is rebuildable.

Rich, you got me thinking about all these crazy mods. Lets see what comes out of it.