Leaderboard
-
in all areas
- All areas
- Markers
- Marker Comments
- Marker Reviews
- Articles
- Article Comments
- Article Reviews
- Classfieds
- Classified Comments
- Classified Reviews
- Wiki's
- Wiki Comments
- Wiki Reviews
- Blog Entries
- Blog Comments
- Images
- Image Comments
- Image Reviews
- Albums
- Album Comments
- Album Reviews
- Files
- File Comments
- File Reviews
- Posts
-
Custom Date
-
All time
November 28 2011 - April 26 2026
-
Year
April 26 2025 - April 26 2026
-
Month
March 26 2026 - April 26 2026
-
Week
April 19 2026 - April 26 2026
-
Today
April 26 2026
-
Custom Date
10/25/2018 - 10/25/2018
-
All time
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/25/2018 in all areas
-
7 points
-
7 pointsI only have one pic of teardown and this is where I'm at today, I've had the frame and tins blasted. I'm using a 5091 8 speed tranny that has 1-1/8" axles so I'm having the ends of the axles turned down to 1" so I can use the Ranger hubs. I decided to paint the rims rather than powder them so I don't scratch them up when mounting the rear tires. Like my last Ranger this Kohler will be recoil start.
-
6 pointsThe Ranger I built this summer for the boys has gone to a new owner so I’m starting on another one that will be basically the same build but with a few small changes. I’m hoping to have this one done by late spring. This ‘68 is gonna be red and an 8 speed like the last one and will have a K181 engine. I’m wanting to powder coat this one. Here’s a couple of pics of what I started with.
-
6 pointsWell I went and visited @jimkemp this past weekend and got my new stack. I installed it yesterday and it sounds great. I only got a few things left and it will be done. Just waiting for one thing to come in the mail and got to make a couple brackets for footrest and a brace for the stack.
-
5 pointsTip of the day: when your wiring is hanging by a strap, don’t take a joyride out in the field. That’s when the gremlins come out! Back in the shop safe and sound.... I’m convinced the build must go on
-
4 pointsSame thing with a plumbing project. Bring your card. "Cleanout " (no pun intended) Home Cheapo or Lowes of all the fittings. Return what you don't use and with the return money buy Power Tools!
-
4 points
-
3 pointsAs this is now a completed project I thought I’d post a picture up in this section. (More pics in Restoration’s under ‘Something different’).
-
3 pointsWell my tube is only 4 or 5’, I don’t feel like cutting my 10 footer up just for a tractor!
-
3 pointsI don’t want the thing to start leaning to the right though Eric! I suppose I’ll wait to figure the overall length/height when I get the seat situated.
-
3 pointsThat does not even become a real question until it starts smacking doorways. Just keep in mind I'm a redneck hillbilly Backwoods country boy truck driver
-
3 pointsTake the distance you moved the engine x 2 from the original belt length. Garry
-
3 points
-
3 pointsIf you cut the fingers off an old pair of leather gloves and put them on your tire tools you will reduce the likelihood of scratching your rims.
-
3 points@Tractorhead I must admit I haven’t measured the machines vital statistics but guessing I’d say lift height to the buckets cutting edge.. maybe 6’ 6”. When it comes to weight.. ‘HEAVY’ I could just lift the subframe/towers, the loader boom pluse the rams would be about the same and then there’s the bucket, again I could just about pick that up. I feel like saying I’ve doubled the original tractor weight, if not, it’s close. (probably the reason the hyro overruns)
-
3 points
-
3 pointsGarry, Thank you! I believe you hit it on the head. I had a feeling it was for stretching leather. The thumbscrew allows you to gradually apply more pressure while allowing the material to stretch. 953, I agree the thumbscrew and threads do not look period, but the threaded rod is held in place with a solid pin and may be original. I think someone did some cleaning on this thing and the thumbscrew which is cast iron may be a replacement. I only wish it were something more exciting.... Bunions? Yuck! Oh well, I also have my Grandfathers cobbler tools. He was a jack of all trades, and one of his trades was shoe repair. I can add this to his tools. Thanks! Danny
-
3 pointsOh man oh man, I think I’ve done it for myself now... the wheels and tires from the David Bradley I picked up a bit ago are screaming to get in on the project! I see a higher steering wheel and maybe some cut down (back half) floor boards. The seat and fenders would drop a bit of course... The DB wheels are a bigger bolt pattern and it has ratcheting hubs for cornering in the field, but that would mess with reverse a tiny.
-
3 points
-
2 pointsHaving just become the new owner of Anglo Traction’s most immaculate C120, felt it only right to rejoin the Wheelhorse forum. Thank you Richard for doing the best restoration possible on this amazing machine. Simply stunning work every time you restore anything !!! Looking forward to using the C120, mainly for mowing and some hauling. Just too perfect to use really, but that is what they were designed and made for !!! will try hard to look after her.
-
2 pointsTook it out for a spin! Then I dug the broken bulbs out of the headlights and pulled the old wiring in the Charger 10, and taught the son the finer points of the game “Chicken” 😂
-
2 points
-
2 pointsGet this and use the one you have....https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252146472551
-
2 pointsI wouldn't change it. Lots of character. When you see something like that and still functioning after all these years you have to look at it with respect.
-
2 pointsGet a couple either side what you think you need and return the ones that don't fit the best. Might save a couple of trips.
-
2 pointsBoth set screws were snapped flush to the hub and one hub is cracked. A good sign this next part is gonna be tough? I finally broke down and built a hub puller.
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 pointsSmall (huge) victories, the K241 still runs, and the hydro feels strong enough to run me over while test firing! Also, I think I’ll be able to lock the DB hub in a drive position by replacing a spring with a piece of tubing. Time to strap a fuel tank on this beast and run it around the yard a while!
-
2 pointsTake a measurement of how the belt would be with out the tensioner, then add an inch or two to that figure. I would think that this would be a good starting place. It might take a couple trips back to the store though.
-
2 pointsWorking with what I’ve got and what I have spares for, both K241 oil pans I have are shallow but with a recess for the dipper. Trying to keep the engine as low as possible to clear the hood reasonably, that recess interfered with the frame and the steering.
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 pointshttps://toolfanatic.com/footfitter-bunion-stretcher-ball-ring-cast-iron-b000pohtog.php Garry Another http://cobblersbest.com/bunion-shoe-stretcher-ball-and-ring/ And another with instructions http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70649&cat=2,51676
-
2 pointsI've seen Richards work first hand, you have a one of a kind restoration there. Nice to see Richard too! have fun!
-
2 pointsMunicipal or Industrial? I was also a water treatment plant superintendent for our small town for 17 years at the same time I was the waste water super. It was a 1 horse town, and I was the horse! Some would say the horses a$$!
-
2 points
-
2 pointsIt's been more than two years since I had my electric clutch and engine pulley off the end of my K341 crankshaft. I had a somewhat loose engine pulley so I needed to investigate by first removing the clutch from the crankshaft. I had never done that before and came to learn there was and is a specific procedure to getting the clutch off the crankshaft. It turned out the two allen set screws at right angles to each other on the engine pulley had loosened only slightly, but enough to cause some slight side to side play which was not going to resolve itself without owner intervention. Further loosening might eventually result in irreversible pulley, keyway, and crankshaft damage. I decided to remove the pulley, examine everything, and clean the crankshaft end, the key slot, and the engine pulley and clutch bores so there were no lubricants to aid future loosening, or foreign matter to increase wear. From memory, there is no woodruff key on the crankshaft. The key was a square cut key of sufficient length to run through both the engine pulley and the clutch. As I recall it was 3/16 x 3/16 square stock, but don't take that as gospel (because I'll be 70 in one month), and memory can fade as we age...... One of the set screws on the engine pulley is centered over the square stock key and tightened down on top of that. Take a close look at the situation. Hope this is helpful to you. p.s. Just had the thought about you mentioning changing filters on the tranny. Make sure the filter is for a hydraulic system and not for an internal combustion engine. Engine filters don't have a high enough micron filtering capacity to work properly in a hydraulic system. I use a # 1410 filter from NAPA. It is specifically a hydraulic filter. Steve
-
1 pointThat's good to hear. I'm putting a set of Small AG's on the front of the Cinnamon horse. I'm curious to see how they do.
-
1 pointOnly reason I was selling the 855 was to make some room in the shop. The Wards was a good looking GT but just didn't fit my plans.
-
1 point
-
1 pointMy name is Danny, and I have a “drug” problem... My wife “drug” me into another antique store today. Most of the places I get drug have little that interests me, but a few of them have some old tools. I rarely buy anything that I do not see a use for, but today was different. I found this plier like tool that appears quite old, but I have no. Idea what it was designed to do. So of course I bought it! I am hoping someone can tell me what it is? It is a little over 15 inches long. The hole in one jaw is about 7/8”, and the ball is about 9/16” in diameter. The hinge is spring loaded. What do I have? It has no marking of any kind. Thanks! Danny
-
1 pointWe both thought the steering would be light handed. I'm surprised. All lubed up well? Maybe some thrust bearings on the front spindles would help.
-
1 pointI received these as a gift. I always used the cheapest wired buds i could find. Sony MDR 1000x cordless headphone with noise reduction. Bluetooth enabled and they connect easily to both my ipad and my cheap Tracfone cell phone. I have never tried noise reduction headphones before so i was / am schocked at their performance , comfort on my fat head and great battery life. Normally i bring my ipad to the garage when working so now tv radio and all my personal music is at hand when woking on the old horses. They also sync to my cell so i can take a phone call while wearing them. If you get a chance try a pair next time ....I will never go back to the cranked up tunes in the garage. Using my blutoothed cell phone with them I can protect my ears while working in the yard and not miss a call now. Kids are always calling for a pickup and such. Owned them 6 months now and wanted to mention it how a device actually helped woth the Horse hobby. Anyone else use NR headphones or buds ? i
-
1 point
-
1 pointI have a 700 at home that is going to be a similar project. It has the original 7hp tecumseh on it, but I've never been able to make it run right and I've had it for years. So now I keep my eye open for a Kohler k181 like something off of a B80 and I'm going to do an engine sway and call it a done. If you don't mind the look of a modern engine you can get a 6.5 horse predator engine at harbor freight.
-
1 pointNobody i want to talk to or music i need badly enough for $350.00. Some old speakers and a $20 yard sale amp running off my laptop is good enough. The old land line phone also seems to still work. Guess i am just a cheap old SOB
-
1 pointA friend (Allis Chalmers GT guy) gave me a heads up over the weekend that the local indoor flea market had a set of ag tires in one of the booths. I was able to go shopping there today and kept my eyes open for them. For $75, I got a pair of 23 10.50-12 USA made Carslile bars, on what look like Cub Cadet rims that are pretty close to NOS(still some nubs on them). They really "beef" up the look of the custom Horse. Mike the Aspie
-
1 pointHair drier . Heat the surface from the rear so you warm the glue rather than the vinyl itself . Start at a corner and peel slowly while warming the surface . You'll get the feel of it .....
-
Newsletter
