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Too much stack? Too short?

I only have one pic of teardown and this is where I'm at today, I've had the frame and tins blasted. I'm using a 5091 8 speed tranny that has 1-1/8" axles so I'm having the ends of the axles turned down to 1" so I can use the Ranger hubs. I decided to paint the rims rather than powder them so I don't scratch them up when mounting the rear tires. Like my last Ranger this Kohler will be recoil start.

The Ranger I built this summer for the boys has gone to a new owner so I’m starting on another one that will be basically the same build but with a few small changes. I’m hoping to have this one done by late spring. This ‘68 is gonna be red and an 8 speed like the last one and will have a K181 engine. I’m wanting to powder coat this one. Here’s a couple of pics of what I started with.

Well I went and visited @jimkemp this past weekend and got my new stack. I installed it yesterday and it sounds great. I only got a few things left and it will be done. Just waiting for one thing to come in the mail and got to make a couple brackets for footrest and a brace for the stack.

Tip of the day: when your wiring is hanging by a strap, don’t take a joyride out in the field. That’s when the gremlins come out! Back in the shop safe and sound.... I’m convinced the build must go on

Same thing with a plumbing project. Bring your card. "Cleanout " (no pun intended) Home Cheapo or Lowes of all the fittings. Return what you don't use and with the return money buy Power Tools!

I think I like it.

As this is now a completed project I thought I’d post a picture up in this section. (More pics in Restoration’s under ‘Something different’).

Well my tube is only 4 or 5’, I don’t feel like cutting my 10 footer up just for a tractor!

I don’t want the thing to start leaning to the right though Eric! I suppose I’ll wait to figure the overall length/height when I get the seat situated.

That does not even become a real question until it starts smacking doorways. Just keep in mind I'm a redneck hillbilly Backwoods country boy truck driver

Take the distance you moved the engine x 2 from the original belt length. Garry

It was a good deal for both of us and it went to a good home.

If you cut the fingers off an old pair of leather gloves and put them on your tire tools you will reduce the likelihood of scratching your rims.

@Tractorhead I must admit I haven’t measured the machines vital statistics but guessing I’d say lift height to the buckets cutting edge.. maybe 6’ 6”. When it comes to weight.. ‘HEAVY’ I could just lift the subframe/towers, the loader boom pluse the rams would be about the same and then there’s the bucket, again I could just about pick that up. I feel like saying I’ve doubled the original tractor weight, if not, it’s close. (probably the reason the hyro overruns)

more pictures

Garry, Thank you! I believe you hit it on the head. I had a feeling it was for stretching leather. The thumbscrew allows you to gradually apply more pressure while allowing the material to stretch. 953, I agree the thumbscrew and threads do not look period, but the threaded rod is held in place with a solid pin and may be original. I think someone did some cleaning on this thing and the thumbscrew which is cast iron may be a replacement. I only wish it were something more exciting.... Bunions? Yuck! Oh well, I also have my Grandfathers cobbler tools. He was a jack of all trades, and one of his trades was shoe repair. I can add this to his tools. Thanks! Danny

Oh man oh man, I think I’ve done it for myself now... the wheels and tires from the David Bradley I picked up a bit ago are screaming to get in on the project! I see a higher steering wheel and maybe some cut down (back half) floor boards. The seat and fenders would drop a bit of course... The DB wheels are a bigger bolt pattern and it has ratcheting hubs for cornering in the field, but that would mess with reverse a tiny.

Thank you! I was about to be bald from head scratching 😂

Having just become the new owner of Anglo Traction’s most immaculate C120, felt it only right to rejoin the Wheelhorse forum. Thank you Richard for doing the best restoration possible on this amazing machine. Simply stunning work every time you restore anything !!! Looking forward to using the C120, mainly for mowing and some hauling. Just too perfect to use really, but that is what they were designed and made for !!! will try hard to look after her.

Took it out for a spin! Then I dug the broken bulbs out of the headlights and pulled the old wiring in the Charger 10, and taught the son the finer points of the game “Chicken” 😂

Click on the picture Garry

Get this and use the one you have....https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F252146472551

I wouldn't change it. Lots of character. When you see something like that and still functioning after all these years you have to look at it with respect.

Get a couple either side what you think you need and return the ones that don't fit the best. Might save a couple of trips.

Both set screws were snapped flush to the hub and one hub is cracked. A good sign this next part is gonna be tough? I finally broke down and built a hub puller.

What, no wheelies?! 😂😂😂 sounds great man, looking forward to seeing what’s next

Small (huge) victories, the K241 still runs, and the hydro feels strong enough to run me over while test firing! Also, I think I’ll be able to lock the DB hub in a drive position by replacing a spring with a piece of tubing. Time to strap a fuel tank on this beast and run it around the yard a while!

Take a measurement of how the belt would be with out the tensioner, then add an inch or two to that figure. I would think that this would be a good starting place. It might take a couple trips back to the store though.

Working with what I’ve got and what I have spares for, both K241 oil pans I have are shallow but with a recess for the dipper. Trying to keep the engine as low as possible to clear the hood reasonably, that recess interfered with the frame and the steering.

The girls have given me the seal of approval! Now I have to make it happen...

I have to say, I really like the look..

DING DING DING...WINNER! Wonder if you can lead half a bull with it?

https://toolfanatic.com/footfitter-bunion-stretcher-ball-ring-cast-iron-b000pohtog.php Garry Another http://cobblersbest.com/bunion-shoe-stretcher-ball-and-ring/ And another with instructions http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=70649&cat=2,51676

I've seen Richards work first hand, you have a one of a kind restoration there. Nice to see Richard too! have fun!

Municipal or Industrial? I was also a water treatment plant superintendent for our small town for 17 years at the same time I was the waste water super. It was a 1 horse town, and I was the horse! Some would say the horses a$$!

That’s a sweet hood..

It's been more than two years since I had my electric clutch and engine pulley off the end of my K341 crankshaft. I had a somewhat loose engine pulley so I needed to investigate by first removing the clutch from the crankshaft. I had never done that before and came to learn there was and is a specific procedure to getting the clutch off the crankshaft. It turned out the two allen set screws at right angles to each other on the engine pulley had loosened only slightly, but enough to cause some slight side to side play which was not going to resolve itself without owner intervention. Further loosening might eventually result in irreversible pulley, keyway, and crankshaft damage. I decided to remove the pulley, examine everything, and clean the crankshaft end, the key slot, and the engine pulley and clutch bores so there were no lubricants to aid future loosening, or foreign matter to increase wear. From memory, there is no woodruff key on the crankshaft. The key was a square cut key of sufficient length to run through both the engine pulley and the clutch. As I recall it was 3/16 x 3/16 square stock, but don't take that as gospel (because I'll be 70 in one month), and memory can fade as we age...... One of the set screws on the engine pulley is centered over the square stock key and tightened down on top of that. Take a close look at the situation. Hope this is helpful to you. p.s. Just had the thought about you mentioning changing filters on the tranny. Make sure the filter is for a hydraulic system and not for an internal combustion engine. Engine filters don't have a high enough micron filtering capacity to work properly in a hydraulic system. I use a # 1410 filter from NAPA. It is specifically a hydraulic filter. Steve

I have the Sunstrand trans from the Charger 12 and have moved the Kohler K241 backwards. I understand how to measure a belt, but the “parking brake” pulley is mobile. Where should it be located to measure for a new belt?

Back Roly, AKA Lowflyer a previous member 'handle'. Glad you got back home ok. Your first task is to work it and get some dirt on it and take some shots of it wearing some mud . Like I said, I am more than pleased it has gone to you and it needs to kick dirt now and earn a living. Got too much going on with projects to miss it yet, and the workshop now has a load of space. I will be down for a ride. Oh , and I look up to people like your Dad for inspiration of skills, ability and ingenuity. Got to keep them grey cells active. Thanks, regards.

agree with achto, if you have a local t/s store, its easy to bring in your belt and match one up , good selection and prices, pete

Hi farmer, top work. Looks awsome but also a bit different, but not bad. Seems perfect fitted for the job you build it for. For how much load you build the Shovel - how much you expect in weight? And what was your max liftheight? congrats!

Thank you, I have already bought new Fluid and will get a new filter tomorrow and drain it and see what happens!

Are your tires loaded, or is that an option on the farm? Or possibly wheel weights? I know that wouldn’t fix the speed issue, but it would aid the traction issue

Thanks for all the replies and welcomes. This Wheel Horse really isn't a good candidate for a total restoration. I'll probably look for Kohler instead I did find a couple of Tecumseh snowblower engines of that era on Ebay. Not sure if that would be a good route for a novice. Thanks again.

Unless you want to keep it as close to original as possible I'd suggest a Kohler 7 or 8hp. Easier to find and a much better engine. The install would be pretty simple.

Welcome back! All horses like to get out in the grass and stretch their legs, they get tired of sitting in the barn!

For tranny fluid changes, I lift the rear off the ground and engage the drive with the engine running to move the rear wheels for 5 minutes or so to warm the tranny fluid up to make it flow better. Then I shut the tractor off and lower it back to the ground. Doesn't sound like that's an option for your oil changes if you can't get the tranny to turn the rear wheels with the tractor running. Next time you do an oil/filter change, try elevating the front end of the tractor some to help tranny fluid flow to the drain hole on the back of the tranny. Having the dip stick removed from its tube helps in venting to some degree. I don't think you can total purge the system because residual oil in the hydraulic lift cylinder, control valve, and hydraulic lines, but try to measure as reasonably accurately as you can what you remove.....it just gives you a relative idea of the volume of fluid you are draining to know where you are with the system. Just a couple of things I've learn along the way with my GT 14.......

Looks like it's in good enough shape and at that price, you should jump on it! Cheers! Dave