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09/14/2018 - 09/14/2018
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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/14/2018 in all areas
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5 pointsStill throwing, Flail mower post hole digger forklift crane tractor towing machine Ice Cream maker Road side ditch embankment mower Or how about a Drone Swatter
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4 pointsThe 551 and 701 use a unique starter solenoid. One large solenoid stud is identified with BAT because it feeds the coil in the solenoid. The small terminal is then grounded by the start push button to activate the solenoid. Can't see how it could cause your problem but it is opposite to the 753. Garry
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4 pointsThese brake drums are concrete filled. Hey, works. Weight when ya need it.
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3 pointsHere's something to ponder. My 520 H has headlights and tail lights. OK the gauges have knockouts in the back to put bulbs in to light up the gauges. If you have to have the headlights on for any reason to see why did they not put lightbulbs in the cages to see as well?! 😳
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3 pointsI'm in the process of making plans to attend my 1st big show since I contracted the horse_idis bug. What should I expect? What is available for sale? Decent prices? Activities going on? And, wife wants to know about food? I have to keep her happy. Who else already planning for next year? Thank you.
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3 pointsGot the custom 702 out today and took it for a cruise down the road to a friends house. Got some crazy looks cruising down the road while listening to some tunes.
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3 pointsFilling the B-100 hydro transmission today with 10w -30 rosella oil. Put the rear hitches and new cable onto! Hope to run this evening!
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3 pointsEarly models with the SW gauges (better) did not come with lights installed. Later models came with lights installed that were on all the time so they are always burned out. I install LED bulbs and rewire so they are only on with the headlights. Cleat
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3 pointsHammer mill or wood chipper Leaf blower Mobile welder attachment Just throwing stuff against the wall to see what sticks
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3 points@Daddy Don checked out the truck for me, and I’m excited to say that he told me I’m getting one heck of a deal! We are flying out tonight and plan to pick up the truck tomorrow morning. It’s the right color to be a fine Horse Hauler! I can’t thank Don enough for his willingness to drive across town and check it out for me, and for @Professor1990‘s offer to drive some 3 hours each way, if he weren’t already out of town! We’ll drive Saturday and hope to make it to or near St. Louis, MO as a good halfway point, then get home Sunday afternoon. Woo Hoo!
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3 pointsPut them on and enjoy the tractor... Weight is weight... I have used old dumbbell weights - paid my favorite four letter word for them...FREE...And my C-105 does not care or complain that they are not "Wheel Horse" brand...
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3 pointsI usually use 1 ought for everything. .. that way when the smoke gets let out there's plenty of it!
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2 pointsSo I picked this up a few weeks ago and thought I would share it on here. Made by Farmhand in 1966 or 67 the model is a farm handy there’s not much information on them and very few around, supposedly they were made for harvesting sugar beets back in the day. It has a 8hp Kohler motor with a 4 speed transmission/rear end. The clutch petal works like a wheel horse (clutch/brake) and there is a petal on each side so you don’t need to sit in the middle to drive it and top speed is around 11 mph.
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2 pointsView the pictures and understand this could be your carb resting with ethanol in it!
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2 pointsA good web site to follow "rainfall" https://www.cocorahs.org/ViewData/ListDailyPrecipReports.aspx
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2 pointshttps://twitter.com/search?f=tweets&vertical=default&q=%23wheelhorseforum&src=typd Place is like a vacation destination. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=whcc+show+arendtsville+pa
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2 points600 miles round trip to pick up two 48” NOS mower decks and snow cab. Just walked in the door!
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2 pointsSorry for the wait @roadapples, a #53 LED (BA9s) replacement works well. https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/led-vehicle-replacement-bulbs/ba9s-led-landscape-light-bulb-1-led-ba9s-retrofit-5-lumens/2539/4363/?utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=base&utm_content=BA9s-x-xVAC-LAN&utm_campaign=GoogleBaseChild&gclid=CjwKCAjwuO3cBRAyEiwAzOxKsvy8Q5ZnzdCXVJk_umea7Z9mbiaJvhLfpIZqZHXAaz7FtEINxAn5WhoCTX0QAvD_BwE
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2 pointsHad a carb on a new Briggs ruined in less than two months because of ethanol.Never again.Ethanol free is all I use in the air cooled non computer engines.I'd run it in the truck but it's a flex fuel and should deal with the corn squeezings.Dumbest thing Uncle Whiskers ever forced on us.
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2 points
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2 pointsPut sheets of 6 mil plastic under the pallets will help eliminate condensation
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2 points
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2 pointsThere should be a spring on the throttle butter fly shaft Spacer provides clearance from the block for the throttle linkage. Should have a gasket on both sides. Techy carb main jets are usually in the fuel bowl see picture 2
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2 points
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2 pointsI second the lateness, even told myself to write you a note yesterday then it all slipped away! It was great chatting with you back by the Chop Shop Mafia fellas at the Big Show this year! Happy belated birthday, or as the Mad Hatter would put it, Happy Un-Birthday!
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2 points@Machineguy, as of course the rest of RS, another rare non I seen today, supposedly runs and awaiting a new owner and yard to mow.
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2 pointsKevin, I've driven thru Oklahoma, a couple of times. Trust me a 3 hour drive can be just a school bus ride every day. Have a safe trip.
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2 points
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2 pointsExactly but they have been known to have a break in those coils due to vibration, heat, overload etc. They can also ground out from the same causes. If the mounting screws come loose that can be disastrous as well. Here are a couple of manuals but may or may not apply to your engine. Still good universal trouble shooting info in them. Engine Tecumseh 3hp to 11hp L-Head SM _692509.pdf Engine Tecumseh Quick Reference SM.pdf
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2 pointsSome things to consider thank you all. My soil is mostly rocks bound together with clay. i have a mold board plow for a WH but never used it. My 40hp Case DC 3 works to pull a two bottom through it. The disk i have for it bounces along on the rocks even with 200 lbs of added weight. I have a rototiller on a 12hp 8 speed and it works but it is painful watching it bounce up and down on the rocks and takes many passes. The garden I have made is it and there will be no more sod busting. I have an FEL on the D200 she also has a 3pt York Rake and a 3pt 60" finish mower (which I do not use very much at all) 753 has a sickle bar C175-8 has a sweepster C120-8 rototiller C141-8 Front mount mower C120-8 Mid mount blade 310-8 has a receiver hitch and front trailer ball She also handles lawn sweeper and plugger (but that doesn't do much with all my rocks) C175-8 has Cyclone rake Charger /Electros (3) 2 snow plows and one Blower 418A Mower Charger 12 Mower ( loaned to my neighbor) Looking for work C-175-8 Charger 10 Commando 8 I have a tub trailer but do not use it much as i do not want to beat it up. I have a trailer my Father and I built over 50 years ago. (Originally towed behind a PorterCable MK26) Been modified and now is with my L107. I have a generator for the house. Thinking some kind of dump wagon may be the next project and a cup holder!!!
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2 pointsYou're asking a senior citizen the impossible. I use Google Chrome but I think my pictures are on Microsoft Edge. Our new computer has Microsoft 10. I posted another video but it appears to be on the same format and I'm undecided about using youtube 00001.MTS
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2 points
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2 pointsAnother thing I should mention is - I don't use ammeters. Don't like em. Don't trust em. I use a voltage guage instead.
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2 pointsReally good Tom @Skipper ...thanks for posting. I have ordered a few times from them with good service and quality but mostly due to my own stupidity ordered the wrong size or wasn' t sure of the size I needed. My go to now, like others is the Huskees from TSC. Buy one or two over or under the size you think you are gonna need and return the ones that didn't fit. Works everytime.
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2 points
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2 pointsYou guys all missed the two Nestle creamer cup caps (red) sitting on the chair table! You know my FREE front wheel covers! OI
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2 points
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2 pointsNo canvas white Rustoleum st Mennards today! So no painting my B100 sandblasted front sheets tonight! Hs thank you all for for the birthday wishes! I appreciate seeing all the comments and postings! My wife ordered special plate of desert for me last night!
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1 pointThe correct owner manual. Click on the picture. This later manual may have better installation instructions The last model they produced and basically the same from 1973 up. Garry
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1 point
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1 pointSame thing with the front blade! For fine finish work you can't beat the feel a manual lift gives you!
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1 point@WVHillbilly520H Do you hurt for the weird stuff or is Staunton the drop off point for you haven't see one of these before.
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1 pointI was thinking about an electric linear actuator. Not as fast as hydraulics but easier to hook up
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointHave seen where some exported models got a 1100 Eaton while the North American models got the 700. What makes it confusing is the online info does not identify the markets. The exported models do have their own model numbers but we do not recognize them. Even Toro was having trouble and started to add an e for export to the model name - i.e. 312-Ae Garry
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1 pointI am running two belts from them now. No complaints, but a few things to consider IMO.............. Lets start from the top of this little story. Let me say this first of all. If you require kevlar belts, I would go Stens True Blue, or Stens OEM Replacement belts for the odd sizes, that some will say you have to buy TORO belts to get. They are out of the same factory (identical) to a brand that people here always rave a bit about. A hint. They are blue. And at the price you can get those belts at, I would not even suggest going for something that is only a few buck cheaper. Now to the ones I have running from v-belt guys. At first I got suckered a bit into buying them. I was looking for Napa B128 and Napa B96, and they popped up on that site, at a really good price. I was a bit hasty, and saw the fine print only after hitting the buy button. It turns out to be other brand substitute belts. And to the price, hey........... They shipped same day, and delivered as they should. Super nice people, with no problem in sending to EU land. The belts was fitted as deckbelt on a 60" HD deck, and as Mule belt from that deck to my C195. They runs just fine. No problems of any kind. No stretch, no strange wear or anything. Just fine. So would I buy Kevlar belts from them? No, not a chance, I can get the tested to be good stuff at roughly the same price, so no way I would take a chance on it. But for classic belts, YES, I would for sure buy from them again. Now some of you will probably say that I can't use non kevlar belts and that they wont last and so on. Well, if the system uses no clutching action on the belt, but is engaged all the time, then I dare throw it back with: Why not? This is why I run classic belts on all non clutching belt systems: They do not have a tendency to slip, which is what the kevlar wrapped belts are designed to do and withstand. I got tired of the belt slipping when the deck got into some really heavy cutting. Now the engine is being pressed down in rpms instead. And, should that classic belt wear out after only a year or two, then it was only about 10 buck or less to replace, and well worth the 10 minutes fix time. That is a good trade off in my book, if they should turn out to be a bit shorter lived than kevlar belts. Enough of the rant. Just my
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1 point
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1 point
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1 pointThat style of coupling was my original idea for fixing the weak point in the D series drive system - the Sundstrand uses an odd 17 spline shaft that is very small and the original coupling was cast iron. Over time, they wear, and when it lets go the whole thing is junk. I had talked to LJ Fluid power about having their shafts made with a more common keyed bore to use those very Lovejoy couplings versus the stock, NLA cast iron parts and rubber puck - but they want to stick to stock for some reason. A lot of D's get parted/scrapped because of the factory weak point - I'd like to figure out a solution that has replaceable parts. Sarge
