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Just a few of the signs.... Feel free to add yours to the list.

Did this in 2009. Time flies. not a lot of pics but guys ask generic questions when building these. Used PK drawings but 3/16" steel instead of 1/4". Bucket is a scoop hybrid that the guy who welded everything recommended. Frame is a PK copy and clamps onto the tractor frame. Towers are the hydraulic tank. Arms are very heavy! Grease fittings in the pivot points. bucket: finished product First show Memorial Day 2009 Delivered a WH mower deck at the Steam Pageant.

That’s just completely ridiculous and obnoxious. I like it!!!

Always do that first. The issue may also be a bad starter relay or solenoid. The click sound is the coil in the relay or solenoid closing a switch to energize the starter. After time the contacts on these switches get burn spots on them & will no longer make a good contact. The starter relay should be mounted under your battery tray, when you turn the key this relay closes & sends power to the starter solenoid. The starter solenoid is mounted on the starter, when the solenoid closes it sends power to the starter motor. If you are not hearing / feeling the click at the starter motor, then I would investigate the relay under the battery tray. If you can hear / feel the click at the starter, then I would suspect that the solenoid on the starter may be bad.

Primarily setting the depth of the plow in the soil. If your tractor is set up with a stop like a strong arm (manual lift) tractor does, then you can dial that to the exact height that works for your conditions and it keeps a consistent depth. If you have a tractor that doesn’t have an adjustable stop, then you find yourself constantly playing with the lift to get the right depth. A land wheel, lets you drop it and go! Dad’s Clyde has hydraulic lift with no provision for a depth stop...so he built a super cool adjustable land wheel that works great. It allows him to adjust for conditions yet drop the plow all the way at the beginning of each furrow. It works really well! Funny story about that—early on in my plowing experience, I had set up a CC682 for plowing. It was a hydro with a Magnum 18 and I used it with my first plow, an old style “flat beam” 10” Brinly. It didn’t take me long to get the hang of it because the soil conditions were nearly perfect on harvested wheat ground. I decided to open it up a bit and was doing about 5mph when I heard this loud BANG! The whole tractor jumped and lurched forward. I quickly looked behind me and saw a 50# rock sitting up beside my furrow. It did a number on my upper adjuster turning the threaded rod into an “S”! Lesson learned: Rocks, Suck points on plows, and speed don’t make a good cocktail!

I bought an 857 at the big show that most guys said belonged to a set of stirrups originally but came with running boards... it doesn’t have the second round bar out back but considering her weight, I doubt that is a concern. The rear of the running board bolts to the front fender support/latch bar.

I don’t have any pics of this bracket since the trans was rebuilt, but this pic may help. The bracket is a little hard to see, as WH had a habit of painting everything red! I will make some better pictures tomorrow, as it looks like I will be replacing the drive belt that came off twice tonight... The bracket clamps to the left side of the axle housing using the U bolt, and has a secondary attachment on the 3/4 inch diameter pin that holds the hitches.

recently picking up a 312-8 ,in addition to wanting to recover a lot of areas of neglect, the main thing was the loose noise this rig made, like a rock in a garbage can. lower front hood pin, swing hinge, removed that and replaced with 2 5/16 x1x1/2" bolts with 2 fender washers on each bolt and elastic nuts , result ? silence. next rebuilt the pto lever rod assembly, I was going to replace the steering rod shaft bearing with a two bolt flange bearing , so I was there anyway. that pto set up was a rattling mess , made up some Teflon washers and spacers and that is smooth and silent, no noise. added a soft extension spring to the rattling clevis pin on the pto curved arm to bottom of arm mount pin, silence. I just love bringing this thing back . my old c-85 has been upgraded the same way, on to the next service area, pete

This came in one of the totes of parts I recently purchased. Not exactly sure what it's for. So if anyone knows please fill me in.

You shouldn't have any issues running wheel weights. Wheel weights are probably one of the best ways to add weight to your tractor and or filling the tires with liquid ballast. One of my tractors is over loaded with weight which hangs on the frame. That adds much more abuse than weight added directly to the tires. Never had it weighed but there's a FEL and a backhoe hanging on it since 2008.

I went ahead and pinned this, but I think it should end up in the "Reference section" after it runs it's course.

Did she raise your life insurance at the same time?😀 Looking good!

Thank you. My wife made the decal. Has one on the engine too

Can we have a bit more information please? Is this a new problem on a previously good working deck? Had the belt been tightened prior to the problem occurring? Had the deck or mule drive been removed or the belt replaced recently? Are the idler pulleys on the mule drive turning freely?

Are you talking about the running boards that started being used in '68 or '69? If that is it all you need is a second piece of 3/4" round stock on each side near the back of the running boards to support them.

The striped wire is positive.

I chased a few issues on my GT14 at the weekend. Finally I thought solenoid... so ran a jumper from the battery to the starter - nothing! Undid and tightened a few engine bolts and voila! it was a poor earth, solenoid was clicking, but not a good enough ground for the starter to spin!

Me and the misses dancing for our Family. I made my regalia. Lakota from Eagle Butte, S.D.

I really enjoy this thread. A great way to enjoy the morning. Drinking coffee and watching wheel horse tractor turning over some dirt.

Finally! A question I can answer! That is the bracket used to mount an electric lift mechanism to a six or eight speed transmission. I just cleaned mine up and mounted it on my Raider 10.

It is one of the brackets for an electric lift for a clevis hitch

Well it’s home. Meet “Hank”. Deck is as solid as it gets plus no dents or rust whatsoever. I have to find some way to get the hood and grille back to the original patina. I do have the side covers off of the 1054 that are original so they may get used on this one. I Want to keep it original at this point.

It's been kind of hit and miss getting time to work on it but...... I did find a steering wheel for richmandred1that cleaned up really nice. Broke down the engine so I could send it out to the machine shop. The hobbs meter on it said 1823.7 but I found out it was broken so not sure how much time it has on the engine. It had a STD piston and like I said earlier it ran real nice without any smoke!?! The blast cabinet has been getting a workout. Lots of little parts and a couple of bigger ones. And a new set of drag links

I changed the back rims/tires out for the ones off the Baby Farm tractor project so I get this one to roll. Fronts I think I'll have to buy a new cheap set of garden cart wheels/tires. I like the look of these 6/12 AG's much better than the 8.5 x 12 turfs that were on there.

Made up a set of NHRA approved wheelie bars today.

I’m sure there have been threads started specifically for this topic on here and if the moderators want to combine this with one of those, please do. Per @Daron1965‘s request, I’ll start a thread about my personal favorite attachment for a Garden Tractor—the furrow plow. I want to state clearly here that I don’t claim to be an authority on this subject. Maybe like doctors “practice medicine”, I find myself “practicing with a Brinly” every time that I head out into a field. I’m going to tag a few of my buddies like @Achto @WHX20 @Shynon @prondzy @Stormin @WVHillbilly520H (If i’ve Forgotten you, not my intention, please join the discussion) Who are all “plow dogs” in that they enjoy climbing into the furrows and turning earth for extended periods of time! I hope that they will weigh in here with their experiences and things that they have done with their rigs and plows. Pictures will definitely welcome and encouraged in this thread, both for instruction and coolness factor. It is funny how people look at someone on a garden tractor turning under a field! I wish I had a dollar for every time someone uninitiated said to me, “I didn’t think you could do that with a lawnmower!” Many folks today have seen people blading with a GT, mowing with a GT, blowing with a GT, but when they see someone plowing with one—they are often shocked. Our culture has moved so far from the agregarian society that people aren’t familiar with it. I bought a 10” Brinly two weeks ago from a buddy who brought it to my Uncle’s Farm day. It was a vey cost efficient price. Apparently, he found it at a garage sale. The person had painted it all black and was using it for a yard ornament because they had no idea what it was for. The first thing I want to make clear about plowing with a GT: GROUND CONDITIONS ARE OF UTMOST IMPORTANCE! If you are trying to plow red or blue clay that hasn’t seen a drop of rain in two months—Don’t Even waste your time. You won’t have fun, you won’t have very good success, and you’ll probably break your tractor in the process! Also, be aware that a garden will traditionally plow easier than a field because the field gets compacted throughout the year with large equipment that weigh anywhere from 5 ton to 20 and more. If the soil is too wet when you are trying to plow it will stick to everything unless it is a real sandy soil. This soil here was quite sandy but was still as hard as a rock. We had trouble getting the plows to suck in. When a plow is only cutting a 2” deep furrow, the geometry of the plow isn’t correct and the next pass or tractor in the furrow is acting more like a chisel plow than a moldboard plow. One of the awesome things about GT plow days, is the opportunity to share the experience with some buddies. Rarely do we get together to blow snow or cut lawn. I like GT shows but I like plow days better. Why? Because not only do we get to look at cool tractors or show off our own, we get to use them and see them in operation. Here my Uncle Roger is using his 314-8 to turn my garden. He was cutting a 6-7” deep furrow with his 10” Brinly and it was doing a beautiful job. This soil is a sandy loam and the moisture content was perfect. One problem with most WH’s as a plow tractor—they are way too light in the front. If you want to do any SERIOUS plowing with one, you need at least a good 60-70#’s or more of front end weight. I’m running 3- 22# weights on my front attach-a-matic and a pair of cast front wheel weights on GhostRider. When I first plowed with him, I couldn’t keep the front down! I was tempted to sit on the hood and look backwards over my shoulder . Power is important and it is good to have a strong running engine. However, there is no need for 25hp when a strong K301 will pull a 12” Brinly in moderate soil conditions with proper adjustments and weight all day. Size your plow to your tractor and it’s power. Comanche is an 8hp Tractor and an 8” Plow is suited well to it. I regularly run the Punisher(my 12” Brinly) behind GhostRider (my 314-8). Conditions were nearly perfect this particular day. I was cutting a 6-8” furrow (notice the lean angle on the tractor) and the soil had just the right amount of moisture to scour really well. Tires are important. I like the modern Carlisle TruPower on the left but I know that Tom and Mike swear by Firestone 23’s and I can’t wait for them to weigh in on their experiences. Dan and I have been discussing the pros and cons of tire width. Too wide and your tractor floats more and then it takes more weight to keep it from spinning. Too skinny and you don’t have enough bite in the ground. A clean moldboard is also very important especially if the soil is sticky at all. If you buy a used Brinly and the moldboard and plowshare are all rusty, I’d suggest cleaning them up some with a wire wheel on a grinder or a drill before using it. The dirt in the field will do the rest. I love the mirror shine that Dan has on his plow here! You know the plowing was good when you leave the field and your plow looks like this and your rear tire like that! I have a lot more to say but I have a few other things to take care of right now and so I’ll check back in later...

A little background on this 1978 C81. It hadn’t been cranked in 6.5 years and when I got it home, cleaned carb and put in a Lowe’s spark plug. A little fuel in cylinder and it fired right up. Happiest person in the world, until it shut off and wouldn’t crank. Checked coil, close to being bad, so it was replaced. Rebuilt carb, new point and cond. went through hrs of retiming and setting point, still wouldn’t crank. Checked fire to plug and had spark. Bottom line was, bad new plug. Finally figured it out by taking plug from electro 12 and there you have it. I’m just a rookie on the small engines, but with all the help here, figured it out. My last extra spark problem was Grounding. Removed points and sanded points base and base on block, no extra spark. What a wonderful site to soothe from blowing up a good tractor. Now, I will refurbish this one first and the tackle the electro 12 next. The 12 is a running tractor but needs some love. The C81 still smokes some, but I can live with that. You guys are great. Patience, I’m starting to learn since retirement.

Flower child.

@ebinmaine, if my 1277 didn't have a loader on it, I would need something too. I have short legs plus "all gut, no but" syndrome so I can barely reach the pedal. Don't really need to since it doesn't have brakes anyway. I rest my foot on the loader mount.

I have to agree. Without Steve's videos and coaching, I would not have torn into this transmission. This thing would be spilling oil like the Exxon Valdez, and my bearings would be chewing up shafts!

Also, make sure you have plenty of storage space. Horses are well known to be a herd animal and they will soon multiply. I was told that about 2 years ago. I started with one because I needed a good heavy duty tractor and now I might have more than one or... More than... like 7. ...Or more.....

Many of us are young “Luke’s”. I’n the world of WH transmission with Stevasarus as our Yoda and Force combined. My self especially.

After reading posts by @stevasaurus I’ve come to understand how Luke Skywalker felt when talking with Yoda. The force is strong with Stevasaurus!

I was using one of my tractors the other day to pull the yard cart to pick up some fallen apples for the deer. The tractor didn’t have a battery so I grabbed one and stuck it in. Tightened the cables and started it no problem. The boys were driving the tractor while I was finishing cutting the lawn in another part of the yard. I finally drove to the orchard to see what was taking them so long and I saw the tractor sitting there. Caleb said that the tractor won’t start. I turned the key and just a click. I monkeyed with it for a minute or two but to no avail. Remembering the above statement, I grabbed my wrenches, looses the bolts and tightened again. This time—success! I hope that yours would be this easy, but if not, I hope you find it is something simple. Wiring issues can make you pull out your hair for sure.

Try this dealer in KY. They traditionally have beaten local dealers on sales (even adding in truck delivery) and may do the same on parts. http://barlowequipment.com/

I went to mow last night and things didn't go great! - Got on my Husky (primary mower) and noticed the blades didn't come on smoothly. I hadn't greased the spindles in about so I went for my grease gun. - Grease gun was empty so I went to put in a new tube - Back of the grease gun metal ripped out (another Harbor Freight delight) so no greasing - Decided I will mow with the Wheel Horse, it will just take a lot longer. - Started mowing with the Wheel Horse, 30 mins later, tractor shuts off. (investigation points to fuel pump) - Came inside to declare defeat and wife says the A/C upstairs isn't working Both mowers down, yard mowed about 30%, hot. Momma said there would be days like these!

Thank you @gwest_ca, looks like that will work!! Gonna put an 8 speed in it anyway! Randy

Sounds like the body of the points that is secured to the engine block does not have a good electrical contact to the block. One would think the screw mounting the points would be sufficient. Perhaps the points have a clear coating on them or an oil applied to prevent corrosion in the box is the cause. I would remove the points and sand the side contacting the block and do the block as well. Garry

for everything other than the transmission, they are pretty well like lego... most things are easy to take apart clean and fix... I thought there was a GT14 service manual?

That is great to see “Hank” finally at your place! PM @Achto if you get a chance or revisit his Rat Rod Suburban build. He has some really cool ways to patina metal for sure... i’ll continue To follow along and see what becomes of this very cool big wheel GT! Nice haul my friend...

Here is my plow tractor, much like my dads @Shynon it weighs in around 1000lbs without the driver, i am running a rebuilt 16hp kohler, inner an outer weights, hy lift and my front weight is made on an old snow blower frame to hang about 50lbs out another 12 inches from the tractor. Here is an updated pic i added a swept axle to get a wider front stance, i havent gotten to plow with this setup yet. I do prefer the firestone flotation 23deg tires over the deestone ags i was running in the beginning they make this thing dig in like a sherman tank! here is a pic of our plow ground, my friend allows us to plow here unlimited after crops come out. We average 15 acres between a couple tractors over the course of a weekend. This pic here is some of the blackest soil in the country, at around a 1/4 mile run for one pass. I also like to rough it sometimes and run with a simpler tractor my 856 pulling an 8in plow without weights. I one ran a 702 no weights for 6 hrs it was a blast! So rock on @Coulter Caleb w/ comanche it is amazing how much a little hp tractor can do! 1. No soil left unturned- its a party foul like spilling your beer 2. They do not make a huge difference, but it comes down to that unturned soil inbetween furrows i run mine to the far right so i can minimize that space (mostly from tire/axle offset between different tractors) 3. MY OPINION: 2nd gear/hi gear @ full throttle. Gotta keep air moving through those engine cooling fins. Especially with how hard most are working their tractors. 4. The only weight limit is when the front axle snaps or the spindles bend. I run front wheel weights @ 20lbs20lbs each and a 50lb weight haning 12 in in front of the tractor. The front end is planted pretty solid but can dance a little in sticky soil. @PeacemakerJack said it all soil conditions make the world. We plow very black dirt in MN. This stuff will make your tractor grunt all day pulling like your dragging a school bus behind you. We went to @WHX20 plow day thinking we have this in the bag. We will show them a thing or two in WI, nope not at all. I had all the power in the world, the sandy soil in WI proved to be its own challenge. As soon as the tires slipped in the loose earth you were spinng into a big hole. Soil is everything. There is a lot of information on this thread already. It is very easy to get confused or frustrated when plowng a small garden most of the time you dont have the run to get a good furrow so we compensate by tipping the point down as far as we can to get depth but it acts more like a shank ripper. These long runs allow us to dial in a plow to our tractors but if i stay in black soil condtions at home i dont make any adjustments to my plow from year to year. because in a large area you are going to get soil variations that make it a difficult to stay at the perfect depth all the time. So if it starts to go too deep or shallow dont get off and readjust all day you are going to get this.

Update.......got the headboard and footboard done! Those pocket hole jigs are the bomb!!

Worked on the trailer and grillin

YOu win the prize! Total repair cost $0.52! Thanks!

Spending the weekend in Hemingford NE with the girlfriend at her sisters house...here for her brothers funeral tomorrow. Did get out of the house for a while this morning and drove over to Alliance...finally got to see Carhenge. Seen several pictures over the years but never thought I'd get to see it in person.

Me and my buddy peanut