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Finally got to go back to Maryland and pick up my grandfathers C-175 wheel horse. He left it and few other tractors after he passed away 2 years ago. Its a 1983 he bought it new in 1984 remember the day it was dropped off. Was one of the first tractors I mowed with. My grandfather made wood blocks so I could hit the clutch pedal. I was 6 years old when he got it no way I could let anyone else have it. Mira been taken care off well but I want to freshen it up some. He replaced the deck a few years ago. I want to replace the drive belts and deck belts along with blades. And tune it up some and replace all fluids.

Hello All, So a little story / thoughts on this big Wheel Horse circle of life. Several years ago Steve @stevebo sells his K series single equipped 416 to a seldom seen member here on Redsquare (I forget his screen name--his real name is Lou). Things go along and something goes wrong with the 416... it gets left outside, then it ends up at my place in a tarp shed, then the mice get into it, then I move the tarp shed but not the tractor and it spends yet more time outside. Steve contacts me about my 416 trade deal I'm trying to make but we never get together on that particular tractor...I end up trading that 416 for a GT1600 and a GT2500---both needing work but being a Briggs guy I couldn't help myself. A couple weeks pass and I say "Hey I have this 416 that is full of mice.. I think it was yours" and I send pics---he confirms and says "I have a pic of my son at 2 or 3 sitting on that. So we put a deal together and I end up with his 857 and he ends up with this 416 and another one of my 416s this time with a Magnum. While at his house we discuss his custom puller / rat rod with the Wisconsin yank start... and long story short I go home with that.... The funny part is I look at it close and realize that I had given Matt @grnlark the bare sand blasted and primered 70? frame and dash tower / rear fenders with no wheels or trans or motor or hood... Steve says---yah I got it off him and built this rat / puller out of it and a Wisconsin I picked up at Zagray farms... Its just funny how these tractors seem to make small orbits right back to where they came from... See you all at the show!!! Tony

As we're just counting days now, it's starting to get intense in here! The horde from the Midwest invading us easterners!

here is a bunch of my horse's at a local show.i take anywhere from 12 to 20+ horse's to the local shows

It is very funny, I don't usually have sellers remorse when I sell a tractor or other but when I sold that one I did. Good to have it back even though it needs a lot. My son who is now 11 told me he feels he is ready to restore a tractor on his own. So .... I figured what could be a better one to restore then this one? Here his is at about age 2?

After we concluded the ignition system was to blame for the problems, I looked around to find a solution. I found a website where I can buy new parts, but I couldn't wait for shipping. My father insisted there was a conversion kit to get rid of the points, but I couldn't find anything. Lastly, I went to my spare Kohler engine. My brother also has a 1960 wheel horse like mine, but his had a seized engine so he swapped it out, but he left the engine on a shelf. I went to that engine, pulled the points, the magneto coil, and the condenser off of it. I figured they were messed up too, but it was worth a try. Amazingly, after a quick shot of starter fluid, it cranked right up! It smoked a little bit, but it was fine. Then a leak appeared in the float bowl so I shut it down before something caught on fire. Can't wait to get the gas leak fixed and get it back to it's former glory!

Well a little more done. Finally moved her inside so I could work out of the rain. Got my new tail lights mounted, ignition switch in and wiring figured out. All temporarily wired up to get it working correctly. When it is right I will make a complete wiring harness. Fuel tank in, solenoid in. Next up is to run the fuel line, filter, and get the right length belt...... baby steps before leaps and bounds 👍

Sometimes you just need the original part~! My neighbor has a B 100 automatic (1975 0r 1976) that I sold him five or six years ago. Good running and mowing tractor which is his primary usage for it. He had a leaking right rear axle from the oil seal and needed a replacement. NOTE: The boo boos on the red coated seal are only from my oil seal removal tool after taking it out! He went to another friend in town that works on these (use to be a Wheel Horse service person) and had the seal changed with the replacement number seal CR 9878 as Toro no longer carries the #100607 original oil seal used on this tractor model (and from what I researched only five Wheel Horse models used this seal). The new seal did not correct the leak that had started on the right side of the transmssion. So to keep mowing for a week my neighbor created a "collection bucket" to hand under the axle and collect the regular dripping transmission fluid. He told me about it and I did some research on the parts lists for the B-80 and B-100 and found out to my surprise the B 100 automatic had its own unique oil seal parts number (#100607). So I tried to find one otr two. I was able to locate two online sold on Ebay. Still in original package and shipped for a total cost of $15. I ordered it and told my neighbor Tom that we were going to change the seal to one of these new ones as there had to be some difference. I did not know for sure but after removing the newly installed CR 9878 seal i placed the original type #100607 next to the CR 9878. You can see at lease two major differences. The #100607 had a thicker wall and it has the rubber type seal materail at teh outer wall of the metal band around the seal. The original 100607 actaully has two lips on the inside. The CR 9878 is not as deep on the side walls and does not have the second rubber lip. Before removing the CR 8778 it was still leaking fluid from the axle housing. After installation the leak stopped and was dry around the oil seal.

Us Floridians don’t stand a chance . Wait, am I the only one?

Ok it’s that time of the year again so I decided it was time to break out the wheel horse planter for the first time ever - for the first time it didn’t do to bad - it slipped a few times so I might have to make a few small adjustments or put a small weight on it next time.

I’m assuming you took the roll pin out that holds the wheel on. You may need to use bearing separators to grab the metal part of the wheel and a big honkin puller connected to the separators

It's could be the one for sale not that far from you. (and it looks like it might be missing those brackets )

Sorry won't be making the show. And yes i'm still laughing too

This only works when: A. You have a gas can B. You have a trailer C. You can wrangle someone to haul you D. You actually have gas in the can Don't ask!

Knock it off Tom my belly is still hurting as it is! BTW since you are appling for Terry's card can we assume you will be in attendance? I mean since you turned down an invite to the royal wedding the BS might be more important?!?!?

I try to change up a little of what i bring so that its not all of the same stuff every time... although some stuff makes it two or three years before i switch it up. Part of what I enjoy about taking stuff to shows is to have some variety. The few shows I hit have some good guys that kind of do the same... so the displays are always a little different.

Didn't have the real Wheel Horse deal substituted a Harbor Freight Gen Set Head 20AMP 5KW and adapted it to my GT14.... saved my kester with the Mini burst tornadoes we had in Brewster, NY this past Tuesday we were powerless for three days...

Serial#48337 last one made. Mods please add to my other pics. Thanks No need to edit Tom...fine the way it is. Stevasaurus Edit

Only pic I have of Shynon ....

As Mike said, presuming the roll pin is removed you may have better luck making the steering wheel move down the shaft first. Support the fan gear support that the shaft goes to with a jack stand which will need to be supporting the weight of the tractor. Use a short pipe or other item that will fit over the 3/4" shaft and drive the steering wheel down a bit. Once it is moving a little it will be easier to pull.

See, he wasn't a hoarder, he was saving that engine to become an organ donor for your engine. The fuel leak is probably an indication of a bad needle and seat which will be included in a carburetor kit.

@Lane Ranger that 100607 crosses to a Napa 15142 1.5" ID X 2.5" OD

Not 100% sure of the bond they used for that steering gear at the bottom of the shaft. If it has a roll pin, knock it out and remove the gear. Most likely that steering gear is welded to the shaft, so carefully grind off the weld beads and remove that gear. Do your thing and weld the gear back on or drill a hole and use a roll pin just in case you want to do it again Without a shop press, some can be very difficult to remove from the shaft

Getting closer I can wait about 10 more days to get your pictures and info

Not a problem Russ, we'll take care of it. Even if your tractor can't get loaded, come anyway-- we'll find you a ride to borrow since there will be a few other guys there too or I'll even buy one there if needed. ( just don't expect to be riding a NOS 420 LSE )

I'm so sorry for your loss. Your grandfather had great taste in tractors... as well as preventative maintenance schedules! gorgeous machine!

@RandyLittrell Not to hijack Aldon’s thread but The biggest problem I see with the stock axles is the Fender mounting panels. If you could trim an inch off each side up top where they mount to the frame rails and move them both in an inch, that would move your axle mounting flange also in putting them an extra inch away from the tires. Even if you had to run an 1-1/2 to 2” spacer, you might get away from having to swap axles. It would make your seat mounting area narrower and the seat pan might hit the fenders depending on your seat. Put a spacer below the seat bracket maybe. Just thinking out loud. I don’t know as I have only swapped on the eaton. Maybe one day I’ll do an 8 speed.

Here's one of my paste wax specials.

The engine in this model sits in a cradle that is rubber mounted to the frame. That setup requires a short ground cable between the cradle and the frame and due to movement between the two the cable can break from fatigue. Since the starter is the largest single load the battery will see you may be able to move the battery ground cable from the chassis to a bolt on the engine. Then the short ground cable to the frame only has to carry current for the lights and other accessories. The short cable item #47 is illustrated in the single-cylinder electrical page of the parts list Garry

Haha. It’s a fun little truck. It’s sat out it’s whole life but it’s 100% rust free other than the surface. And older gentleman bought it new in 1983 in Arkansas and he couldn’t drive it much as he got older but it sat under a tree with no protection it’s whole life. It only has 100k miles on it. It’s a V6 with a 4 speed and factory AC. Here are a couple pics when I first got it a few years ago.

Nice Jason .....a trip down memory lane! Another thought Randy it's a good idea to have a tub handy when you run out of gas and a bro has to play filling station! This kinda monkey business is what I like the most about shows! How bout taking a bro to go get his truck!

Now That's funny, I don't care who you are that's hilarious. I need one of those.

5000 Watt Wheel Horse generator

Oooooooooo...... How about a link (or pm me) to purchase?

boy I wish I had the time to show with life and kids me busy. I have a fleet of restored garden tractors. when we have picnics and parties I pull them out.

New taillights on Skittles. These babies are bright. Even in dim mode. I’ll be the most hated person in the friday night cruise. 😎

Finally got the cultivator set finished and installed on the 701. Started her for the first in over a month since I began her makeover.. She started right up and purred like a kitten. Only thing i don't like about the jeep cables is that the throttle creeps in where it doesn't lock. Quick fix- piece of rubber hose split to have to keep it throttled up. Just pull out the throttle and clip it over the cable between the knob and dash.

Almost forgot to thank our host. Property, buildings and displays he has are awesome and you cannot have a better setting for an event like this. Weather was a bit cool and damp in the AM but turned beautiful in the PM.

I think a high-banked oval in a steady left turn just kinda creep down ½ a lane at a time. Made for retired Nascar drivers.

I had a brief e-mail from Glen today. He said that he will post a message with pictures to the community soon. He was in the hospital for a long time and is still recovering, and is eager to get outside. I don't have anything more, I'm just really glad to hear from him! Looking forward to his note to us with how he's doing.

The Nebraska test was designed to show what a tractor could really produce in terms of HP. PTO were rated at 540, belt at engine rated rpm.. in this case about 1500. Rpm is not relevant in the testing. Look up Nebraska tests.. I wish they did them for garden tractors.

Rule of thumb is early 60 roll pin mid to late welded but that rule has been known to go right out the window. Can you pull the whole shaft out with tank attached and get it in an H press somehow? Not real familiar with the two piece tanks.

Thanks for the good information

I am too wide to narrow seat pans!! I won't hijack Aldon's thread any further, I will start my own thread before too long and we can cuss and discuss things there! Glad there is so many great threads to help others along! Randy

The “hand grenade” issue was with KT17 series 1 engines. Your 417-A should have the series 2. Full pressure lubrication. 👍

That is a nice tillier @dtom Good luck ...Yah I suppose Dells put our name on on a pair of those foot rests...I'll take it it out of him in labor if he don't pay up!

Went down to look at myD200. It is faces in and your really can't see it. There is an oil feed line to the governor so there may be some pressure in there. I would think an oring would just blow out. Looks like mine seeps some also...But then most everything I have has some seeps/drips. Oil is cheap and nothing I own will rust out on the bottom. I suppose you could pull the seal for measurements but then you would have to find something.

Mike I will be there early if I can make it. Hope to see you John and Russ also.

It is not the transmission. It has to be something with the belt and pulleys. Make sure the belt is the right one and the right width. It should be a cloth covered belt also. Take off the guard and belt and clean the pulleys with mineral spirits. You are going to have some drift with a belt drive system, but it should catch up before you level out. You probably are doing this already, but if not, I think using 1st gear when going down hill should help. I hope the advise works for you Bob. I can't test it out here in Illinois...we don't have any hills. Illinois is flat.