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I have some work to do, rototilling and then some bottom plow, had to get a couple snap shots before I clean her up!

Brought this home tonight. I didn’t title this post “New Horse Hauler” cause I’m BROKE now! Won’t be buying any Wheel Horses for awhile 🙄 . But I will ride in comfort to the WH Show.

If I tried to till here, I'd need a cab to keep from getting a mud bath.

Lengthened the steering shaft today 3” so I could get my wheel on it. Fits nice now. Figured while I had the welder out and nice weather I would go ahead and notch the shifter cage to clear the hydraulic fitting that is on the front of the pump. Welded that, all the cracks in the usual places on the rear of the fenders and the rear cross brace behind the seat. Also beat the dimples out of the extra set of rear fenders and hammer & dollied the rest of the sheet metal for the fender mounts. Also I have @wheelhorseman lowell making my hoses. Hope to have them soon and then I can get her plumbed and hopefully operational. Just Chuggin’along

You gotta remember that it takes TWO auction bidders to get the price that high. Someone else was willing to pay almost that much too.

I can bring this K-341 (spec 71309) to the big show or other arrangements can be made. This is the motor that I purchased new (WW Grainger)and installed on my 1976 B-80. I’ve used it a lot since the reunion mowing and pushing snow. It does run good but it smokes on start up. It didn’t seem bad in the summer with the 30w in it but with the 10w30 in the winter it’s quite the skeeter chaser for about the first 10-15 seconds or so. The video doesn’t really show it but believe me, it does. I wanted to rebuild the carb and fuel pump but with the move and remodeling I just didn’t have the time so I’m thinking that should be done. As far as internally….. The owner during my 17 years away from it had some engine work done in 2010. All I can tell you is that the receipt shows piston, rings, gasket set oil and ‘overhaul 16hp Kohler’. I have no clue as to the quality of work or any machining that may have been done. The cost for the parts and labor was $541.00. I don’t want to mess with this motor and would rather see it go to someone that will give it the love it deserves. I latched on to a freshly rebuilt K-341 that was done by an outstanding mechanic who is very meticulous about his work. Needless to say I’m anxious to get a basically new motor on my favorite tractor. I think $200.00 is a fair price since it runs good. I’ll be removing the PTO parts, drive pulley and the regulator. The regulator was on the motor when new and is different than what came on the tractor. You can see it bolted to the shroud on the back of the motor. If I happen to come across a 101450 or Stens 435-084 I would let this regulator go with the motor. I don’t want anybody to get an unpleasant surprise. Please ask questions. https://youtu.be/LhXKjIhfy40

10 pinion limited slip transmissions...5073, 5060, 5071, 110996, 110995 This list may not be all inclusive. This might be all the manual transmissions...the 5073, 5060, 5071 are considered 6 speeds...the others are 8 speeds. That means...the 6 speeds have the brake drum on the 11/44 tooth mushroom gear (hole closest to the rear axle). the 8 speeds have the brake drum on the cluster gear shaft...(next hole toward the front of the trans). Some of the automatics have Sunstrand transaxles that are 10 pinion limited slip some are 8 pinion.. I do not have that list yet. The best way to check is to pick out an automatic tractor by year...say charger 12 from 1971...go to the manuals section on the main page and find the TPL manual for that horse. find the trans breakdown...in this case (5062). Check how many pinions in the differential (10). The #5062 transaxle is a 10 pinion limited slip differential. I think you need to be careful here. Do not go by Sundstrand numbers...that is the pump, not the transaxle. I am not positive, but a Sundstrand #3100077 could have an 8 pinion transaxle or a 10 pinion. You need to check the manual and count the pinions...and remember that I am talking from the factory. A Private Owner may have changed the differentials out also. To check that...take off the seat and fender pan...look down one of the bolt holes and count the bolt heads or nuts you see holding the differential together. The 8 pinion has 4 bolts...the 10 pinion has 5 bolts.

No muffler is worth that much to me. I might be fussy when it comes to keeping things original, but only if it's practical. A $240 shower head muffler is not what I call practical, but to each there own. Now what I do call practical is this shower head muffler that I found in a flea market for $15

Could be a bad coil, as well as points, condenser, spark plug, or plug wire. K-series engine do turn over fairly easy due to the ACR (automatic compression release). I think you are on the right path, as a fuel problem would not have a "no spark" symptom. Be sure that you got the right coil. Kohler uses a coil with an internal resistor. (41 519 21-S)

Here is the completed unit with distressed finish minus handles in its final destination. I am not too fond of dark distressed finishes but you got to give them what they want.

I would put a 12v jumper direcly from the battery to the coil. If it has spark then, the problem is in the ignition switch or the wiring. If you don't have spark with the jumper on, then change the cheapest components first in this order. First the condenser, then the points, then the coil. The backfire issue may be due to a carbon build up that has blocked the exhaust valve from closing entirely.

So I didn’t see this post right away so tell me do I need to update your phone number to WHX15 yet???

...the $240 shower cap muffler that sold this morning on Ebay? Just in case you missed it.

While I was out in the magic shed these beauts wanted to bust out of their stalls....weather finally in the 50's!

Ooohhhh!!! I like them GMC's. I have started snooping around myself. My Tundra just turned 198,000 but it just won't break. It's going into the shop next month to be torn apart before the show. If I keep it I'll have to invest $1500 at least in the next year for a timing belt and tires. There's a new red GMC in the town I work in. It's on sale for only $43,000!!!!!! Think I can talk them down to 20?

In back of the motor is what we call a molex connector. Separate the two halves and look for any loose burned or corroded wiring.

Get you a piece of 14 gauge or heavier wire about 3-4' long strip the insulation about 1/2" on both ends hold one end to the + terminal of the battery and then touch the other end to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid (may spark but don't be alarmed as long as you keep hold of the insulation not the bare wires), Jeff.

Was in a little rougher shape than I hoped but very savable and will clean up nice. Drove it up to a wall and dug nice holes with the rear. Engine was rebuilt in 96. The old gent who owned it wrote all over it in sharpie as some things that were done to it - oil changes, tire pressures - stuff like that. Cigar lighter missing & some other minor PO fixes but nothing serious so I'm happy to add it to the herd. Will get some more pics once I get to home barn and cleaned up.

1989 should be Onan Wiring diagram is in this link... Good luck I like C series and earlier too much electrical on these new things....

And I thought 30K for a pickup truck was a lot of money..

Had that on my watch list. Makes me even prouder of the K-90 with shower Head muffler I paid $ 50 for!

If you're assuming I bought it? man, you really are... a "few eggs shy"

A guy that Dan @Achto and I know has this tractor for sale. I think it's a 1277 or 1077?? and would fill in some blanks in my '67 herd if it is either. Dan thinks it may have a 241 in it. Asking 500 with the sweeper which is somewhat interesting in itself. Note both floor boards and stirrups and the condition of the seat. May be worth a look? Thoughts/comments fellas?

Mines a used truck (2015) there are loads of trucks coming off 3 year lease plans all the time. Much much less expensive if you don’t mind a few miles on em. I only put 6000 or so miles a year on my trucks so a few miles from a previous owner didn’t bother me.

Same wheel as came on my 1267 parts tractor, it is on the Street Rod 953 now.

UUHHMM... I use gas to coat the inside of my gas tanks...

Is this correct Jim? If you're looking for original this wouldn't be the one. It's been painted and the rim is coated. I was going to use it on my 500 Special until Richie gave me one I like better.

Did you have to plow the snow off first My garden is still about 60% covered...

Hey now! You may be onto something there... My whole property is filled with stones of all sizes and shapes. I should Market them on the internets.... as custom measured petroleum mixers.

Wouldn't the missing 'rolling stone' keep the fuel mixed? 'Specially a two-cycle fuel mix?

WOW great work saving that hood

I doubt I would restore it Sarge, way too many irons in the fire now. Sides the MN boys got me brainwashed in keeping original if possible. Maybe just a clean up & sanding and clear coat like Dells and others did to recent horses. I have had some luck in finding those steering wheels you mentioned so if not correct maybe I would luck out again. I'll get some decent pics for ya'll when I go look at.

Not just yet Lowell these clowns say I gotta skip the odd numbers and head right to 16 .... Somethin about bad luck to have an odd number! What decal was that Bob? Like the Raiders have below the gas tank? That's what I was thinking Gary... or look good on a trailer queen, ...and then the seat would have to come off and preserved if it remains a worker. Going to try and sneak over to look at it in the next day or so. Since I know the seller and partied with him at tractor shows he said he would hold it for me. I gave both AC man and Dan a sneak preview on the dash tag and they where both searching here for a model T10... didn't quite see the faint 77

You can also use the differential out of any Charger Electro Hydro to go into a a manual tranny with 1-1/8" axles. All Charger electros were 10 pinion I believe.

Connect a wire from the + battery post to the +coil post. The + coil post is marked, but it may be difficult to see. The - coil post should be connected to the points and condenser and the + coil post should be connected to the ignition switches (I) lug.

Nearly all, maybe every single one of us, has been here before: Thomas Tusser Quotes . A fool and his money are soon parted.

Exactly Jason. I see it all the time at auctions. Sometimes actual value of an item is not an issue.......It's the "My pockets are deeper than yours" mind set of the bidders. I will never forget a slide in pick up camper I bought used for $1500, used it for 10 years, then sold it on EBay for $3600. I had 6 bidders right to the very end including bidders from Florida and Ohio. A bidder from Exton, Pa was the WINNER (or loser). The new model was selling for $4700 that year.

On the record. I I really did treat this as kind of an experiment for my own future knowledge. Like I posted earlier, this Hub already had significant denting damage on both sides so I had very low confidence that I was going to be willing to use it at all, much less actually get it off in one piece without immense patience. I'll try to clean up the axle shaft and show the rust if I can. If I really did want to save this hub, I'm sure I could have. I say that because the penetrating oil was definitely doing its job by coming out the bottom when it was being sprayed into the top. Only two of those chips came off with the 3 jaw puller. The rest I used the hammer simply to get them out of the way so I could get to the small heavy duty Center Circle which I knew the puller would be able to manage. If I was going to take the time to remove this Hub I would have parked the tractor in such a position as to put the set screw at the top and began several weeks ago by spraying penetrating oil into the set screw hole. There are multiple different methods that could have been used that are in posts on this forum.

I'm guessing the PO that built it was inspired by his daily driver.

Told you guys it was a silly question!

That sounds like the right coil. I think I would replace the spark plug and take a look at the points too. Good luck.

I had a Magnum 15 on a 312-A that would start and run fine till it got hot then it would sorta-of die down and backfire then run good for a while till it did it again. Talked to an old dealer and he told me it was the exhuast valve sticking. He said that he has already had to cut the head off and drive the valve down and out cutting it out piece by piece till he got it all out. Although thid dosen't explain the no spark, it could help explain the apparntly low compression, might be worth pulling head and checking it out, good luck eric j

Recently, I got this one... NOS, in the box...$50 shipped. I'm just wondering...how these people sleep at night.

@TonyWH520H If the ignition module goes bad one of two things happen, either the tractor runs and shuts off after a few minutes when it warms up, or it won't start at all. By jumping direct to the coil you have proven that the module and the coil is good. As stated above down load the demystification guide and go through it step by step till you figure it out, good luck eric j

I'm likin that custom front bumper.

Could be Randy pics just don't show it well. Never thought of that Bob but if they are the guy at the factory was havin bad day that day as this girl is supposed to be orginal. You were close on the model. Bigger question is why no 1077 on the decal when the 877 and 1277 has them?

The bolt pattern on the wheels is 4.5" five bolt just like a Ford. Be aware that the front end on these is very very light. If you plan to have your son drive it be sure to add weight to the front and a set of wheelie bars would be a good idea too. I bought a Suburban 400 for my wife a few years back and the first time she drove it was her last! When the front end went up a couple feet in the air she shut it off and never got on again.

Belongs in other brands I know but my thread... is a nice tractor, says it's in for a clutchechtomy and jumping out of gear issue.