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I thought this was just hilarious and sharing here.....

Drove a whopping 10 miles to pick this up. The K-341 on my B-160 is getting tired and I wanted to find another one for it. A good friend put me on to a long time friend of his and spoke very highly of his skills and quality of work. This should be a plug and play installation. 100% rebuild and only ran long enough to make sure things are right. Shortly after I got there my friend showed up and we all spent a good two hours in his wood heated workshop talking. Needless to say I'm anxious to make the swap. During that time he rounded up two of these. Seems an odd way to package some hardware but super cool. He gave me one of them and it will find a new home hanging in my garage.

Completing this one this weekend for a client.Kind of hard to let them go sometimes.

Sweet Denny a boot box AND a place to sit down and put them on! I made this one this winter. Some pieces of cedar shingles from a tractor show in it for smell control and some cheap led lights.

The doghouse is coming along.

The front of this bench is the panel from the piano that sat above the keyboard, the sliding doors were to access the music rolls and the hinge was part of the cover for the piano keys. I keep my shoes and boots in the bench. A guy I used to work with recently built this bench for us in his home wood shop.

I have no patience Bob...just ask my wife, my kids, the dog!

If it's still fairly pliable it should fit snuggly over the oil filter and seal it to the air shroud without any adhesives or sealant, Jeff.

I also started the hood repair today. I started with the original 401 hood and a piece of hood that came off a 654. This is why I save all these little pieces. I first removed the lip on the 654 piece of hood. Then I made my cuts and welded them into place, well adding a strip along the inside for support. I just got to fill the old steering wheel hole with a patch. Then I will do some bondo work and priming. I even took a bunch of photos of some steps and the test fitting on the 401. I spent almost a hour sanding around the decals so they could be saved.

You must not be looking hard enough Actually, you won't find one. In 76 and 77 the B's and C's were identical except for some cosmetic things and, of course, the horsepower. I bought a new 1976 B-80 off Chandlers showroom floor. It didn't take long for me to convert it to a C-160 and then there's the story behind it going to a new owner when we moved to Florida and, much to my amazement, I got it back 17 years later when we moved back here. When I converted it I removed the B-80 decals off the hood stand but I knew I wanted to get a new engine for it and was willing to go 12, 14 or 16 so I waited until I could find what I wanted. Well, I found a sweet K-341 so B-160 decals it will be. For many reasons this tractor is very special to me and I'm thrilled to have it back.

Well, We did a bit of work on the C the last few days. A few coats of primer on the de-rusted sheet metal. I ordered a metal gas tank from @A-Z Tractor. Thanks Lincoln!!!! That came in and we sanded and began priming it. My honey glued the seat foam on to the frame. She'll finish trimming that up at some point and begin covering it. Me? Oh, I had all KINDS o' fun with hubs !!! Lemme just start by stating that I'm perfectly fine with the multi-piece unit in the next pic... then I'll explain. OK so if you look at the outer edge of the inner portion, right next to the key slot, you'll see where some person in the past (not me, I'd admit it) beat the living stuffing out of the hub trying to make it fly off. Or to the moon ... or whatever. I do not believe they were successful because the other side did not leak much oil and this side has NO visible seal even left in there and this is a different style hub than the other side. (See my post earlier today in Wheelhorse main section) There are similar marks on the outside of the hub as well. So... I was not super happy leaving this hub on when done knowing it may already be cracked and I wanted to do an experiment to see how much it takes to snap one of these infamous brittle hubs. 1/4" impact driver set on high broke it with my large 3 jaw puller. Then I smacked off the rest of it and heat/cool/oil/repeat/etc for awhile and off it came... very reluctantly !!! The axle shaft has some roughness from this one being so rusted on there. The other side looks great and slid off with minimal resistance. Also on the plus side - the keyways look great !

As fast as JackRabbit is, that seatbelt might be a good idea

I was going to suggest a can of Berryman's for the carb....maybe the thumb too! That thumb looks awfully familiar!

So—last night after I got back home from church and got everyone settled in for bed, I went out to my office to work on a few business related items. I have to walk through my shop to head up to the office and so I decided to sit on JackRabbit for a couple of minutes and admire our work. I was thinking about the fact that Caleb would like to try it for plowing and something dawned on me. I think the seat that is on that tractor will be great for plowing. It has a back but it is short enough that when you turn half way around, it is easy to rest an elbow on the top of the seat back. I also like the armrest on the right hand side—can keep you from sliding off the tractor into the furrow. The armrest on the left side remains to be seen. Sometimes it is helpful to slide over the land side tire for extra ballast—hard to do when you have an armrest in the way. The only way way to know for sure is to try it out this summer. I do know that it is awesome to have everything solid on the seat mount and the adjustable seat working again...

Love these old wood planes, Pick them up any time I see them at a reasonable price. You should be able to get about 1,000 in there!

I took advantage of the heated wood workshop and built a Walnut TV stand/curio.

Been working on assembling my 42" C125 deck. The texture is aerosol bedliner to help cover the years of being outside along with my repair sins. Enamel paint on water based bedliner sure is slow to dry - a few spots are still tacky after 3 days. Red is the same Rustoleum I always use. Oh well, it will get a chance to dry out in the sun pretty soon! Before and after pics:

Patience Jim. Let me get the new heart in and get the decals.

I have one of these also, very strong magnet, head adjust to most any angle. Very bright

Here is the thread you want to look at. This is the #5085 and has videos. If the oil looked fairly good when you changed it, I would not be too worried about using it for a while. You can change out the bad seal and get into the trans later. If those outer bearings are real bad, you run the risk or scoring the axles and you may have to find replacements. You do not want to go that far. I would say it is usually a 2 day project. If the hubs come off and the hitch comes out, it can be a labor of love. Once bad bearings are replaced, you can put the trans gears back together in about 5 minutes. It is all the stuff on the outside of the trans that can take the time. The amount of money it costs really depends on how many bearings you need to replace. All of the bearings and seals and gasket would be around $200. Replacing the outer axle bearings and all the seals and gasket...$40 to $50. Check out these videos.

Overkill ?????

WOW, I just finished my winter project .......... to read this entire thread from the beginning. It wore me out just reading about all the projects you guys are working on. The talents displayed here are amazing. I had good intentions of building a golf cart for Mrs K, but the build got interrupted by some unexpected family health issues. I spent about 2 of the past 3 months in the York Hospital. I did manage to fit in a couple small projects.

Dick that is a very nice cabinet wish I had space for something like that so the wife could fill it with who knows what. I think I am going to start filling empty jars with nuts and bolts to see if she who must be obeyed can find a place in the house to display my treasures. All kidding a side you really do some great working.

The Convention ended Friday night. Caleb ended up with 3 first place medals and 3 third place medals. The only thing that he didn’t place in was his pen and ink drawing because he was facing some really strong competition. However, I was very proud of his work on it and am planning to display it in my office so I can enjoy it every day. He did a good job overall, especially for his first year in this competition. He was asked to do a command performance of His FDR speech. I will be posting a video of that soon. After a fun filled but hectic week, it’s back to work for Kelli and I and back to school for Caleb! Thanks for following along on this journey and all the encouraging words guys...

Lots of guys says a LR is not a "real" tractor .....thanks Lane for reaffirming my they should be on every horse person's bucket list!

Excellent Bob but how do we know you have a hard to find rare elusive B-160 if there are no pictures!

Is your hammer OK? Are you now making Wheel Horse puzzles? That now looks like the weaker hub, you proved your point! Looks like you were aggravated getting it off and said "I'll just smash this %#$^%*& thing with a hammer"

Happy Birthday @12 hp Kohler and @jimt1971, we are glad you were born!

Well I assembled everything I could today. Got the engine all gone through. Put new valves and gaskets, tapped exhaust, re surfaced the head and so on. Cleared the patina of the engine as well. Waiting on the new front tires and then the rims and seat will then be repainted antique white.

If you let the needle bearings go to long this can transpire...Took out the much more expensive inner 1533 bearing in the process. Keep a close watch on how much up down front rear play you have.

Not quite sure if I understand what you guys are talking about the slide hammer thing but if I read right hammering of any kind outward force to get a hub off is a no no. The snap ring could break off in the diff. and then you will be splitting the cases!

Really nice, Jim! This old man needs a place to sit down to put my boots on. lol

Yeah. What he said. It's hard with so many variables... Maybe I can point out one major thing that I think is overlooked. Folks grind off the visible rust and spray an ordinary sandable primer/filler and feel good about it. All I'd be nauseated. It will fail. Soon? Later? But it will fail! Got to either metal prep or use a metal inhibiting primer! Or pray...

I was liking how my weights were turning out but I did not like the fact that mounting nuts would be sticking way out in front of them. I was discussing this fact with my friend Bob (owner of the motorcycle shop in town) and said it would be nice if I had a way to counter sink the nuts into the blocks. " Well" he says, "I don't have a cutting tool big enough to do what you want but, if you want to come down Sat I'll let you play with the rotary table on the mill". I had no idea what a rotary table was or how it would help me out but I was anxious to learn. I thought that some here would enjoy a little walk through my experience with this new to me tool. As with any machining process set up is very important. First step was to find center on the rotary table. To do this you move the table until it looks close to center by eye, then I used a coaxial indicator to find exact center. The indicator is chucked into the quill and the gauge part is held still with catch bars. With this set up you then turn the mill on and adjust your X (left / right) & Y (in / out) axis until the needle on the gauge holds perfectly still. Then the X & Y axis's get locked. Now that the rotary table was centered I chucked a drill bit into the quill that was the same size as the hole in my weight and used it to line the part up while I clamped it down. Close enough right? NOPE. Now install the indicator back into the mill and use a hammer to tap the block around until the needle on the meter stops moving again. Now the hole in my part was perfectly aligned with the quill. Now it's almost time to cut a counter sunk hole. I wanted my hole to be 1 1/8", my cutting tool was 1/2". I did the math and figured out how far I would need to move the X axis on the mill to achieve this size hole. Then moved the Y axis ( up / down) and then rotated the table to make a light cut so I could check my hole size. Once I was happy with the O.D. measurement of the hole then it was just a matter of moving the Y axis to make deeper cuts then rotate the table, then repeat, repeat, etc. until I had achieve the depth that I wanted. After the hole was cut I used a round off bit to chamfer the edge on the hole. After one hole was done the entire process was repeated to cut the second hole. Hope you didn't mind my little walk through. Here's the finished part. With this part done I bolted the weights to the bracket and the welded the mounting bolts to the bracket. This way I won't have to try to hold the bolts while I mounting the weights. Counter sinking the holes may have been unnecessary but I sure had fun learning & I think that it looks much better with the mounting nuts recessed. Now I just need to figure out what I'm going to do with the large holes in the rear weight. Today while I was assembling I came to a point where my motorcycle jack kept getting in my way. The lift arms are wider than the tractor frame and interfere when install some parts. This was an issue that I was going to address after my last build but didn't. Well today I had enough of dealing with it so I took some scraps and made a Wheel Horse adapter for my motorcycle jack. It turned out pretty well plus it gave me another 3" of lift. Tabs on the side hold it from moving on the jack, tabs on top hold the tractor from falling off of the adapter. For now I laid rags over it to protect the paint until I get a chance to glue some rubber down on it. Enough machining and fab for this post, I did actually make some progress on my tractor also. I chose to stop at this point because I want to do some wiring before I continue farther. Need to pick up a 22NF battery so that I can get my cables made.

@953 nut, Wrong color tractor you're protecting there...

No mice here!

I just recently finished two sea doo lifts for the founder of our company. Replacement parts were not available so he asked me if I would build them for him. He gave me the rusted out parts to use as a template. Mounting plates drilled. Tubes cut. Plates and tubes tacked up. I forgot to take pictures of the uprights. I delivered them to the hot dip galvanizing plant. Both have been delivered and one reassembled.

Cleared two driveways today with my 1967 Wheel Horse LawnRanger with the 30 inch snowblower ! I have enjoyed using this for about ten years. This six hp Tecumseh was purchased new by me when i redid this tractor in 2008! 720436BB-5D6E-43C2-9835-346C90493962.MOV 154.MOV

My C160 had two different hubs. Guessing 1 original, 1 fairly recent (wasn't stuck on) replacement. Is the one without the "star" shape stronger? (More metal there) Why the change? Just curious. ....

Great work!!

I also have the headband led light, mine happens to have 3 different light levels. Nice always having light where you're looking. I also have led lights that can be adjusted to point where you want to. They can either sit on the floor or hung up. Led is nice because it's bright but they don't get hot, like incandescent or halogen bulbs, and they are rugged and last a long time. They are not all that expensive considering how long they last.

I have a couple of those good old florescent hand held shop lights and have been pleased with them for years. With that said I will follow along because if something better is out there I would be interested.

parts are more available and cheaper for the K

That is gonna be one beauty of a plow rig! Thanks for the tutorial on the machine work as well.

Thanks for the pics, Lane!! Always nice to see a Lawn Ranger earn it's keep.

The only play should be in and out (about 1/8") Up and down or front to back indicates worn bearings.

Ain’t doing anything to them but I am working them. Got the girls out for some sunshine. Putting up 115’ of chain link fence. Skittles engine is getting a coat of red this week. Several parts hanging in the sun cooking now. Nice low humidity 85* here.

Those flowers all look like they are bending closer to either smell or get a closer look at the exceedingly rare NOS WHclearSTYLE-"noseeum" OSHA approved steel toe boots...Only made them one year...Didn't work out to good...users never knew when they had them on or off...