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You probably run out of traction much before that. Made a couple of improvements on it that have really made it easier to use. Th new seat is much higher making it much more comfortable for my long legs. Also made an extension for plow lift so I dont have to lean forward to operate it. I don't even have to take left hand off steering to use it now.

Here's another 867

My last post showed the condition of the axles for this project. This weekend I had a chance to make the repairs on them. First weld up the damaged key ways and unwanted through hole. True the axle back up on the lathe. Cut a new full length key way on the mill. Job done, easy as that. Finally was able to start assembly, one item on the list was the hydro pump. A Century Fox pump made by Hien Werner. Unlike the HY pumps made for Wheel Horse this pump needs to be spun clock wise, so it will drive off of the fly wheel side instead of the PTO side of the engine. So I have the axles done, I should have the transmission back together right? Well after some one wrecks a couple of seals, assembly was kinda brought to a halt. This is kinda depressing as I could have had it put back together. Oh well, I got it this far. Sorry for the blurry pic. With the transmission out of the picture I just moved on to assembling a few other things. Not quite looking like a tractor but it is heading in the right direction.

Started installing my rear rock shaft. Still need the cable. Also need to relocate my fuel pump but that's no problem

I have a problem with short frame square hood tractors lol bought an 867 today. The last 2 horses have been short fame square hoods, the other one being an 857. I just love the 8hp kohler engines! A restoration is in order for this bad boy at some point.

IT'S ALIIVVE !!!

Oh you have the adjustable model. I must upgrade.

Models that used the 6509 belt guard 1046 1056 1057 1067 1257 1267 Garry

Thanks to everyone for the birthday wishes. I had a great day. Started with a 5K run for charity in 30° weather, then my son & daughter-in-law and some other runners took me out for breakfast. After an afternoon of yard work, (with a little seat time), we all went out again for dinner. I'm now sitting back in my recliner with a homemade brownie and a cup of coffee thinking how lucky I am to have such a great family and great bunch of friends here on RedSquare.

Painted some engine tins and small panels for skittles. While I was at it, I got started on my mash pole sign. Painted the first color today. Hope Howard’s tractor don’t flip over.

Quick base coat of paint. More coats as the evening progresses

And while I was puttering in the workshop....

I don't think I've ever ran out of power with my onan eric j

Thats a beautiful tractor. If my 57 was a 67 i probably would have kept it.

Check with @daveoman1966 or @A-Z TractorA-Z Tractor http://a-ztractor.com/, thy should be able to hook you up.

there is one on ebay now for 49.99 with free shipping in great condition. another idea is get rid of the outlet patch a piece in, rotate the the tank 180 and tap in in a new outlet on the other side

This is what I mowed about 10-12 lawns with between my Jr. and Sr. Year in high school. 1980 Simplicity 4108. I sold it to my dad in 1982. He mowed his yard for 35 years with it. I figured it has about 1100-1200 hours on it. The mower deck was replaced. It starts right up. Uses very little oil. Dropped off a 1999 WH 312-8 I bought for him this winter. We didn't know what to do with this. So, I took it home. I think I'm going to clean it up and putz with it some. Looking it over, It probably needs about $150.00 at most put into it. And a little elbow grease!

Had to clear out some older drifted snow today. Drifts that have settled are pretty dense. The old Charger 12 was working so hard I darn near stalled the engine. That you can almost stall a healthy 12 hp Kohler plowing snow speaks well of the strength of the hydro and the traction provided by the 10 pinion differential. In the past my other plow tractors would always spin out long before the engine was really worked hard.

Trying to ID this tractor - any ideas?

The 1055 is my snow plow tractor, short frames rule there. I need to make mine pretty like @520HC's.

Can't. .. I don't have time to write that novel.

Welcome to Red Square Pat. We have a few guys that have shipped a horse over seas. Hopefully, they will see your thread and join in. Do you have a line on an RJ? Where you find one might make a difference on how you get it shipped.

Your drive belt is a 5L-850 which crosses to a B-82. I use a Kevlar K5L-850 on my GT-14 from tractor supply. You could place a wanted ad in our classified section for the gas tank search. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/?do=form&d=2

Diamond plate helps a lot. I don't have any problems going in or out. Vice grips are for throttle .Keeps creeping out of position. Was going to change cable years back but got used to using this way.At least I always know where vice-grips are.

I have an extremely steep driveway and don't want to take any changes with it. The almost stalling only happened with this storm for the first time. I had 18 inches of wet stuff on the top part. It was brutal on tractor but it pushed it. I need to get up to the top of it first and then plow downwards. However since I do not have a lot of spots where I can put snow, many times I just push it all to the street like this time.

Get ya one these you shouldn't have any problems with drifts or banks...its only 22hp.

Funny you mention this. The same thing happened to me this time with the Electro plowing huge mounds of wet snow. Helping my neighbor plow his steep 1/4 mile driveway going uphill engine was slowing down considerably. Also going up my driveway I almost stalled it a couple of times. Ramming into big snow piles I have to be more careful. I almost flipped it a couple of times. Kept going forward over pile to the point that it was going vertical. I don't know what i would do without this tractor, it is just unstoppable. This time I went through 3 fuel tanks non stop.

Just a heads up - You're better off to run the grounds to a single point on the frame, then use a 12ga wire to the battery negative post. Running a ground in a single direction chain to each system can lead to loop issues and cause the voltage regulator to get a false reading or burn out. I generally use one of the bolts that mount the regulator to the chassis. If the regulator is mounted on the dash stand as is the case with the C160, run a ground wire to a frame bolt instead and bring all the system's grounds to that point. I use a jumper wire and use internal tooth lock washers to mount the regulator so the wire can ground the regulator body properly . This will keep things tidy and prevent ground loops and interference. It also helps voltage meters and other gauges read more accurately and prevent future grounding issues. I still always run at least an 6ga ground wire directly to the starter's mounting bolt to prevent the starter from ever using something else as a ground path, such as the choke or throttle cables. Sarge

Yeah...you can be sure, things quiet down quick. When the Mrs. K's cookie bars come out.

If it had said Mrs. M's cookie bars...

VIBRATION.... Regardless of the patch you chose, you might think about putting some rubber line in between the tank and the fuel line. Maybe scratch the whole "fuel bowl thing" and put a inline filter in. The tank is small enough where the leak could be brazed lIke Eric is suggesting. If its welded (gas) you might have to make a reinforcement piece (like a washer) to get a purchase onto some good metal. But that hard line hookup is probably vibrating to all get out so its going to keep testing the fix. Just went back and looked at the picture again, take the sediment bowl off, get a inline shutoff and get a new outlet bung welded into the tank. I'm thinking the weight of the bowl assembly combined with the shakes is causing the problem to revisit you.

I actually just picked one up from member on here last week, along with a 702 belt guard that my grandfather needed. I really appreciate all the help you guys give here, this is such a friendly and great site.

Here is the wire diagram. Later model 520 wire diagram.pdf It shows the 3 fuses, how they are wired and the wire colours. I personally wire from the voltage regulator straight down to the starter motor solenoid battery cable with the 30A inline fuse. Fuse holder is down by the solenoid. You will then only have 2 (15A and 25A) fuse holders up where they are now. That takes a large load off of the 9 pin connector. Wheel Horse did this on the early 520's, unsure why they changed for the later ones. Any more questions just ask. Cleat

Everyone deserves a 2nd chance. Well almost everyone. You better be at the show. I don't want Jim to be all ornery and hit me with his suspenders!

That is the belt tightener bracket for a front mount mower deck If you need one for a front mower deck I can make some more I made some last year

Here is some information from Brian Miller's site that should help. New connecting rods for Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models MV16, KT17, KT17 Series II, M18, MV18 with a wrist pin hole diameter of .625" and STD crank journal diameter of 1.3733"/1.3738". NOTE: Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. And new rods for model KT19 is no longer available. L Also, the KT17 cylinders are different than the M18 cylinders because the OEM KT17 rods are narrower than the M18 rods. To make the KT17 cylinders work with M18 rods, grind away (notch out) the lower portion of the cylinders until the rods clear. Or acquire a couple of M18 cylinders that's in good condition. (The OEM [US] manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.) The alternative to using undersize rods - If STD size or .010" undersize rods are in good condition, the matching crank journals can be reground so they're perfectly round again then if the original rod(s) isn't badly scored or burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal(s) with .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rods when the engine is ran for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. STD size. High quality aftermarket. $70.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 52 067 67-S. $98.90 each, plus shipping & handling. .010" undersize (w/hole drilled in beam section). High quality aftermarket. $90.00 each, plus shipping & handling. OEM Kohler part # 52 067 68-S. $123.88 each, plus shipping & handling. New connecting rod for Kohler KT-series and Magnum engine models KT19 series II, M20 and MV20 with a wrist pin hole diameter of .750" and STD crank journal diameter of 1.4993"/1.4998". NOTE: Crank journal must be reground .010" undersize to match this rod. The alternative to using undersize rods - If STD size or .010" undersize rods are in good condition, the matching crank journals can be reground so they're perfectly round again then if the original rod(s) isn't badly scored or burnt, it can be resized to fit to odd-size undersize journal(s) with .0025" oil clearance. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. IMPORTANT: To prevent scoring of the rods when the engine is started for the first time, apply clean motor oil, gear oil or lubricating grease on crank journal before installing rod. This will better protect the parts until crankcase oil reaches them. IMPORTANT: Click here for proper break-in (wear-in) oils and procedure for rebuilt engines. STD size no longer available from any source. Not available in aftermarket. L (The OEM [US] manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.) .010" undersize (w/hole drilled in beam section). OEM Kohler part # 52 067 72-S. $93.10 each, plus shipping & handling. Connecting rods for Kohler engine models K482, K532, K582 and K660/K662 are no longer available from Kohler. Used and New Old Stock rods can be purchased off of eBay when available. And with the crankshaft rod journals reground to .010", .020" or .030" undersize, the K482, K532 or K582 connecting rods can be bored for installation of bearing inserts. Bearing inserts that's made for certain British MG Midget cars will fit the K482, K532 and K582 rods perfectly when the rods are bored to accept these (STD size, .010", .020" or .030" undersize) bearing inserts. The alternative to using undersize rods - if a STD size or .010" undersize rod is in good condition, the matching crank journal can be reground until it's perfectly round again, then if the original rod isn't badly scored or burnt, it can be resized (in a connecting rod honing machine) to fit or match the odd-size undersize journal with .0025" oil clearance. Bearing inserts cannot be used in this procedure. NOTE - The maximum a connecting rod can be resized to is .005" undersize. If it's resized more than .005", being the big hole in the rod will be made excessively oblong or egg-shaped, which will allow it to less bearing surface contact around the crank journal after being resized, due to the centrifugal force at 3,600 RPM, the big end of the rod could become elongated (metal stretch) and might eventually knock and possibly break. Contact Elson Nichols of Loop 70 Automotive Machine Shop, 14 Business Loop 70 East, Columbia, Missouri 65203 USA. Phone: 1-573-449-0893. Email: vjnen@centurytel.net. He can bore the K482, K532 or K582 rods and install bearing inserts for a reasonable price. The K482 STD size connecting rod is OEM Kohler part number A-277130-S. The K482 .010" undersize connecting rod is OEM Kohler part number A-277130-S-10. The K532 and K582 STD size connecting rod in an engine with [K301 or K321 K-series] cast pistons (wide wrist pin hole) is OEM Kohler part number 48 067 12-S. The K532 and K582 .010" undersize connecting rod in an engine with [K301 or K321 K-series] cast pistons (wide wrist pin hole) is OEM Kohler part number 48 067 13-S. The K532 and 582 STD size connecting rod in an engine with [M12, M14 or M16 Magnum] Mahle pistons (narrow wrist pin hole) is 48 067 16-S. The K532 and 582 .010" undersize connecting rod in an engine with [M12, M14 or M16 Magnum] Mahle pistons (narrow wrist pin hole) is 48 067 17-S. The K660/K662 connecting rod is OEM Kohler part numbers: A-271741-S (aluminum rod); A-270890 (steel rod). Bearing inserts for these rods are no longer available from Kohler.

KT 17 series 1 was splash lube and series 2 and M18 are pressure lubed. I am not sure if the rods would be drilled the same. If you look in the Kohler service manual, I believe the 17 and 18 were both the same bore and stroke. 3.12" bore and 2.75" stroke. KT17 service manual http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2043_a.pdf owners manual http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2107_c_all.pdf Magnum 18 manual http://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/tp_2204_b.pdf

Sounds like a nice low hour 520xi you've found. They are really nice tractors. Really hard to compare with a 314. You will find it to be a much larger and heavier tractor. It can handle a 48" deck with ease. You will also find it more complicated with the cruise control, smart steer (slows the tractor in a turn) and the two speed rear that Jeff mentioned. I moved from a 520H to 520xi. As much as I liked my 520H, I loved the 520xi. So much so, that I got a 522xi. I feel that the 5xi series are the best tractors Toro/Wheel Horse built, but I guess I'm biased. You will love the tight turning radius and the foot pedal control. For me, I don't like the smart steer feature, so I disconnected it. And the cruise control is a bit of a gimmick. As far as performance, mine are flawless. They are as easy to work on as the 3-4-500 series classics. However, the wiring is as complicated as a 520H or maybe a bit worse. One downside is that used parts and attachments are hard to find and expensive when you do find them. However, the V-twin Kohler is very common, parts are plentiful. If you are looking for a tractor for everyday use, its hard to beat a 520xi.

Still no resolution to the lathe issue, so until I figure out what to do I thought I would go back to where I left off before with the bronze bearings (I bounce around and multi-task a lot ). Finished up the front axle, spindles, and pivot pin & pressed in the bearings: Here is what I did where the steering shaft originally went directly through the steel support in the frame. I reamed the hole in the frame to accept a 3/4" x 7/8" x 1/2" flange bearing. Then (I don't know if this was really necessary but added it anyway), I fabricated a steel bracket to kind of hold the flange bearing in place since the frame was only about 1/4" thick where the bearing went through. The two holes were already in the frame, so it was just a matter of adding a couple of bolts to hold it in. I didn't press this one in yet until I can strip and prep the frame for painting. The primer is just a quick rattle can misting for now to keep it from rusting. Next was the rear of the frame where the clutch idler/pulley shaft goes through the frame. this one took (2) 1/2" x 5/8" x 1/2" flange bearings. Again, these are not installed yet until the frame is prepped. Next came the lift lever where it goes through the hoodstand assembly. Couldn't do much with the bearing block that was already mounted on the lever, but it actually didn't have a lot of play in it anyway. Seemed like all of the wear was on the opposite end (right side) where it went through the hoodstand. This one took a 1" x 1-1/4" x 3/4" flange bearing, which I may need to trim the length a little once it is actually pressed in. In the second photo, you'll notice that I also had to re-fabricate and weld the little threaded tab that holds the belt guard. And finally the thing that I have been kind of putting off for fear of ruining, but all seemed to come out OK in the end, was that angled steering support block. It took a lot of "finagling" to say the least in order to get the set-up and angle correct in the drill press. I even reground my 7/8" drill bit to more of a 135° angle because it seemed to want to over-bore the hole when I started drilling. Unfortunately, the new bearing was still not as snug as I would have liked with a press fit, so I cheated a little with a thin coat of JB-Weld. It's plenty snug now, but I hope the next guy that comes after me has a torch if he ever needs to replace that bearing again!This one took a 3/4" x 7/8" x 3/4" straight bearing since a flange would interfere with the pinion gear. I left it slightly long for now until I assemble the whole thing, until I see how well the whole thing fits together when I assemble, then I'll just take a file to it if need be. I also installed a straight bearing in the lower portion of the block where the fan gear shaft goes through, 3/4" x 7/8" x 1/2". What I actually did for these (2) bearings was purchased an extra 3/4" x 7/8" x 1-1/4" (same as I used in the spindles) and cut this one to make both of these bearings. That's about all I have new for now. If anyone is interested, I made up a little spreadsheet with all of the bearings that I have been using that are crossed referenced with McMaster-Carr stock numbers. I mainly did this for myself so it wasn't like building a jigsaw puzzle, not remembering which bearing went where from the ones I ordered, but you are all welcome to the info if you want it. Oh, I do have one more question, maybe its a dumb one, but I'll ask anyway. On the brake pedal, there are three holes where the brake linkage rod is attached to only one. I assume that these are variable to set the proper pedal movement, but which one is the correct one to use? Mine was currently in the bottom hole (see arrow in photo below), but that's not saying it is the correct one. Didn't know if these different holes were for different applications or if it was just a personal preference choice for the operator to set the pedal where desired? The reason I ask, I need to install a little flange bearing in which ever hole is the right one and I don't plan on pressing one in all three.

Also listed on eBay & Amazon very inexpensively if you buy a package of 3-4. When first used or after cleaning with Soap & Water, be sure to put 3-4 drops of regular oil on any pre-filter like this and squeeze the oil in & throughout the foam (dirt & dust in the air going through will stick to the oil much better than dry foam). (I also spray my thin home furnace filters with oil for this same reason, cleaner air). Glen

OMYGAWD! How did I miss this and homemade brownies to boot! Happy Birthday Bob!

Hit my pocket good, Oh thanks for welcoming me back, gets lonely on my own site hahahaha, waiting on a check, then were gonna need your buddys address, yes your going along , also get ready to help the old bird

Another side view

Welcome back Big_Red. I still hope you are planning on going to the Big Show. How is the engine on that horse??

Stuff happens, it looks far better than most and shouldn't take all that much to make it right. Sarge

The last set of wheels I painted were done on a pair of feed rollers for a table saw - this way I could just roll the wheel while holding the gun in one position. That's the best coverage and results I've gotten so far. Sarge

@WHX14 if you take the southern route it is all freeway and it only adds about 1 hour to the trip. 90 -39-80-65-70 in Penn catch 79-68-81 or 90-39-74-70 in Penn catch 79-68-81 it is just that 1st toll in Illinois. All interstate freeway.

Reminds me of the Kenny Chesney song American Kids... "Momma and Daddy put their roots right here cuz this is where the car broke down"

1944 Farmall M About 40 hp...bullet proof, parts and reproductions widely available, easy to work on no complex electrical systems to fail. 100% made in the USA. There are several aftermarket add-on 3pts produced for them that would handle a post hole digger. I have a loader on mine. Wheel weights and loaded tires she will drag any of the aforementioned tractors around backwards