Leaderboard

You probably run out of traction much before that. Made a couple of improvements on it that have really made it easier to use. Th new seat is much higher making it much more comfortable for my long legs. Also made an extension for plow lift so I dont have to lean forward to operate it. I don't even have to take left hand off steering to use it now.

Here's another 867

My last post showed the condition of the axles for this project. This weekend I had a chance to make the repairs on them. First weld up the damaged key ways and unwanted through hole. True the axle back up on the lathe. Cut a new full length key way on the mill. Job done, easy as that. Finally was able to start assembly, one item on the list was the hydro pump. A Century Fox pump made by Hien Werner. Unlike the HY pumps made for Wheel Horse this pump needs to be spun clock wise, so it will drive off of the fly wheel side instead of the PTO side of the engine. So I have the axles done, I should have the transmission back together right? Well after some one wrecks a couple of seals, assembly was kinda brought to a halt. This is kinda depressing as I could have had it put back together. Oh well, I got it this far. Sorry for the blurry pic. With the transmission out of the picture I just moved on to assembling a few other things. Not quite looking like a tractor but it is heading in the right direction.

Started installing my rear rock shaft. Still need the cable. Also need to relocate my fuel pump but that's no problem

I have a problem with short frame square hood tractors lol bought an 867 today. The last 2 horses have been short fame square hoods, the other one being an 857. I just love the 8hp kohler engines! A restoration is in order for this bad boy at some point.

IT'S ALIIVVE !!!

Oh you have the adjustable model. I must upgrade.

Models that used the 6509 belt guard 1046 1056 1057 1067 1257 1267 Garry

Thanks to everyone for the birthday wishes. I had a great day. Started with a 5K run for charity in 30° weather, then my son & daughter-in-law and some other runners took me out for breakfast. After an afternoon of yard work, (with a little seat time), we all went out again for dinner. I'm now sitting back in my recliner with a homemade brownie and a cup of coffee thinking how lucky I am to have such a great family and great bunch of friends here on RedSquare.

Painted some engine tins and small panels for skittles. While I was at it, I got started on my mash pole sign. Painted the first color today. Hope Howard’s tractor don’t flip over.

Quick base coat of paint. More coats as the evening progresses

And while I was puttering in the workshop....

I don't think I've ever ran out of power with my onan eric j

Thats a beautiful tractor. If my 57 was a 67 i probably would have kept it.

Check with @daveoman1966 or @A-Z TractorA-Z Tractor http://a-ztractor.com/, thy should be able to hook you up.

there is one on ebay now for 49.99 with free shipping in great condition. another idea is get rid of the outlet patch a piece in, rotate the the tank 180 and tap in in a new outlet on the other side

This is what I mowed about 10-12 lawns with between my Jr. and Sr. Year in high school. 1980 Simplicity 4108. I sold it to my dad in 1982. He mowed his yard for 35 years with it. I figured it has about 1100-1200 hours on it. The mower deck was replaced. It starts right up. Uses very little oil. Dropped off a 1999 WH 312-8 I bought for him this winter. We didn't know what to do with this. So, I took it home. I think I'm going to clean it up and putz with it some. Looking it over, It probably needs about $150.00 at most put into it. And a little elbow grease!

Had to clear out some older drifted snow today. Drifts that have settled are pretty dense. The old Charger 12 was working so hard I darn near stalled the engine. That you can almost stall a healthy 12 hp Kohler plowing snow speaks well of the strength of the hydro and the traction provided by the 10 pinion differential. In the past my other plow tractors would always spin out long before the engine was really worked hard.

Trying to ID this tractor - any ideas?

The 1055 is my snow plow tractor, short frames rule there. I need to make mine pretty like @520HC's.

Can't. .. I don't have time to write that novel.

Welcome to Red Square Pat. We have a few guys that have shipped a horse over seas. Hopefully, they will see your thread and join in. Do you have a line on an RJ? Where you find one might make a difference on how you get it shipped.

Your drive belt is a 5L-850 which crosses to a B-82. I use a Kevlar K5L-850 on my GT-14 from tractor supply. You could place a wanted ad in our classified section for the gas tank search. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/wanted/?do=form&d=2

Diamond plate helps a lot. I don't have any problems going in or out. Vice grips are for throttle .Keeps creeping out of position. Was going to change cable years back but got used to using this way.At least I always know where vice-grips are.

I have an extremely steep driveway and don't want to take any changes with it. The almost stalling only happened with this storm for the first time. I had 18 inches of wet stuff on the top part. It was brutal on tractor but it pushed it. I need to get up to the top of it first and then plow downwards. However since I do not have a lot of spots where I can put snow, many times I just push it all to the street like this time.

Get ya one these you shouldn't have any problems with drifts or banks...its only 22hp.

Funny you mention this. The same thing happened to me this time with the Electro plowing huge mounds of wet snow. Helping my neighbor plow his steep 1/4 mile driveway going uphill engine was slowing down considerably. Also going up my driveway I almost stalled it a couple of times. Ramming into big snow piles I have to be more careful. I almost flipped it a couple of times. Kept going forward over pile to the point that it was going vertical. I don't know what i would do without this tractor, it is just unstoppable. This time I went through 3 fuel tanks non stop.

Just a heads up - You're better off to run the grounds to a single point on the frame, then use a 12ga wire to the battery negative post. Running a ground in a single direction chain to each system can lead to loop issues and cause the voltage regulator to get a false reading or burn out. I generally use one of the bolts that mount the regulator to the chassis. If the regulator is mounted on the dash stand as is the case with the C160, run a ground wire to a frame bolt instead and bring all the system's grounds to that point. I use a jumper wire and use internal tooth lock washers to mount the regulator so the wire can ground the regulator body properly . This will keep things tidy and prevent ground loops and interference. It also helps voltage meters and other gauges read more accurately and prevent future grounding issues. I still always run at least an 6ga ground wire directly to the starter's mounting bolt to prevent the starter from ever using something else as a ground path, such as the choke or throttle cables. Sarge

Yeah...you can be sure, things quiet down quick. When the Mrs. K's cookie bars come out.

If it had said Mrs. M's cookie bars...

VIBRATION.... Regardless of the patch you chose, you might think about putting some rubber line in between the tank and the fuel line. Maybe scratch the whole "fuel bowl thing" and put a inline filter in. The tank is small enough where the leak could be brazed lIke Eric is suggesting. If its welded (gas) you might have to make a reinforcement piece (like a washer) to get a purchase onto some good metal. But that hard line hookup is probably vibrating to all get out so its going to keep testing the fix. Just went back and looked at the picture again, take the sediment bowl off, get a inline shutoff and get a new outlet bung welded into the tank. I'm thinking the weight of the bowl assembly combined with the shakes is causing the problem to revisit you.

I actually just picked one up from member on here last week, along with a 702 belt guard that my grandfather needed. I really appreciate all the help you guys give here, this is such a friendly and great site.

Here is the wire diagram. Later model 520 wire diagram.pdf It shows the 3 fuses, how they are wired and the wire colours. I personally wire from the voltage regulator straight down to the starter motor solenoid battery cable with the 30A inline fuse. Fuse holder is down by the solenoid. You will then only have 2 (15A and 25A) fuse holders up where they are now. That takes a large load off of the 9 pin connector. Wheel Horse did this on the early 520's, unsure why they changed for the later ones. Any more questions just ask. Cleat

Everyone deserves a 2nd chance. Well almost everyone. You better be at the show. I don't want Jim to be all ornery and hit me with his suspenders!

That is the belt tightener bracket for a front mount mower deck If you need one for a front mower deck I can make some more I made some last year

Just one more thing to say about electrolysis..It also works as a paint remover. Front wheels are a pain to prep for painting on our Horses. Quite by accident, I discovered that paint really came off easily on damaged areas. What about nicely adhering paint on non-rusted areas of the wheel?. The answer is, it WILL come off if you take the TIME. On a typical wheel, figure four days with a heavy duty charger set at 12 volts and a 2 amp charge rate. With a clean anode and cleaned wheel, eventually the paint will bubble and work loose. The way you know the process is working is that bubbles keep working their way to the surface indicating a continuing reaction.In other words, if plenty of foam is present on the surface, leave it alone. The steel under all that paint stays nice and smooth so long as current is turned on. It even worked on a really old wheel with very hard paint. Sure beats sanding and breathing dust from paint that was applied before the lead paint laws were enacted. Leave it hooked up long enough and 100% of it will scrape off with a fingernail.or a piece of wood.

I work on Mack Trucks at Pitt/Ohio, its all metric now, no standard tools no more, My Son Alex the Farmer is Heavy Equipment Mechanic, same deal. I wont go any farther or Jim will rip me a new pair of jeans

Metwrinch. The solution to the world's problems. Gag Cough

I did almost the exact thing Caz, but I cut up a hydro control lever so it looks kind of stock.

Clothes pins one fast idle two full throttle

I'll have it At Big Show Don, Waxed & Sparkling with Forsale Sign on it , Its too clean to use

I've always wanted a 417-8 or 418-8 for rototilling. The gear driven transmission for steady ground speed and electric lift for easy lift of the tiller. I'm sure with a little love it will love you back Fred!!

Looks like you and your dad took good care of the little Simplicity. Oh, just wash it out! Think the answer is yes.

Yep. I'm pretty impressed with my little B80.

I am not arguing the quality point as I am obviously a Wheel Horse nut but Metric is the way of the world now. Your new truck or car made by the big 3 are all metric top to bottom. For the price I hope they are not total junk. Cleat

Hate to say it, but Eric was right, if the seller has misrepresented it the over the phone agreement is dead in my opinion. Is the electric lift working? You know the routine, replace the entire fuel system, rebuild the carb, new spark plugs and use Seafoam.

Some more progress. Lots of time and effort into that rear wheel, and i mean lots! I dont think i got it in me to do the other one by hand. All the small stuff is just about done and painted so i think im going to find someone local and get me hood and fenders and wheel blasted. Do any of you have any pointers on painting the rear wheels with spray cans? It has such a deep dish im sort of concerned about getting good even paint coverage inside.

Yeah, no tolls in MI either but we seem to frequent trips to Chicago for airport pick ups or flights out it seems (chasing our German exchange "daughter" student from a few years back) so it seemed like it was time. The signs say save 35-50% on tolls depending on what state you travel, this was our first trip so I haven't yet seen the bill but we travelled from MI to Washington DC and paid cash the whole way there while we waited for our transponder to be registered. Seems every state has a different pay schedule, but in OH where we purchased it, it was $12 up front that gets credited towards tolls and when we registered they charged another $13 making a $25 balance. A charge card is on file that they auto pay themselves from, and they maintain a $25 balance OR your average monthly toll usage, and it pings once your balance is below $10. There's a $.75 monthly charge for inactivity too. Sounds like a lot, but say you save the minimum 35% on that $200, there's $70 in your pocket that you might have spent on one trip before. Not sure on axle counts, they have about a bazillion cameras on the EZ pass lanes so maybe the transponder pings the cameras that count axles. I chose to not bring a trailer and just load my pickup bed for this year's trip, to save on tolls especially. Also to prevent me from making more purchases at the big show than I need! Also, you can register more than one vehicle on a transponder (his and hers, etc.) and they have Velcro strips that adhere them to your windshield behind your rearview mirror.

With any electrical problem I have found that cleaning and tightening ALL electrical connection including grounds will clear up most problems. This guide can help you see what components stand between the key switch and starter, take a look. demystify.pdf