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I have a problem with short frame square hood tractors lol bought an 867 today. The last 2 horses have been short fame square hoods, the other one being an 857. I just love the 8hp kohler engines! A restoration is in order for this bad boy at some point.

Here's another 867

Happy Birthday @rmaynard, we are all glad you were born!

I requested reinstated to my account, Karl brought me back, I wont Joke around. I bought a 417-8 today over the phone, he said it was mint, well it wasnt, steering column pulled out from dash, engine running on turpentine, & a List of more things, Ericj ripped my rear today TWICE saying theres some times you have to walk away, well i didnt & im out 600 bucks for a Non running 417-8, so i need your help, i called 19richy66 and he is gonna send me some info after his work. Hers 1 pic before sale, its what caught my eye for being a deal. Thanks for Letting me come back Karl, oh boy, im sure i will get the texts now

This is the tank I use. Line of site all around.

Well, I've read all the replies at least 2 times and every one of them makes a valid point. I don't know if I would have been so supportive of wheel horse had I not owned one. I didn't know it would turn out to be the tractor that it is. I've used mine for just about everything from keeping my driveway clear to building my house. I grew up on a dairy farm so I was around equipment all my life, Was raking hay with a MF 50 when I was 8. I guess that's the best we can do and hope others or some one amongst us has the means to fill in the gap as the vendors do and make stuff available to keep our machines running. It just seems a shame that such a good design with so much history of successful performance is passed by . Any decent mini tractor is going to cost at least 10K, not exactly chump change. And the stuff they sell today that they call Garden tractors isn't even close to the what the WHs have to offer. With all the new technology out there, I'm hoping it gets easier to manufacture parts in small quantities at less cost, ( 3d printers, mini cnc machines) . I have realized one thing as a result of this forum, there is a tremendous amount of exceptionally in-genius talent out there mechanically speaking and the place to tap into it is right here.

The wheel prep for paint continues.I have 3 front wheels cooking away in the electrolysis solution..The worst rusty one has the paint falling off in sheets.-- Just no effort at all. As long as the [reaction] bubbles keep forming, I am gonna keep it cooking away. One thing most of the instruction sites tell you is to use a coat hanger or rebar as the anode..No way. Use a 1.5 inch bare metal pipe at the minimum. The more surface area the anode has, the faster the reaction occurs. I never throw my solution away, but it does not hurt to dip the settled clean solution out and throw away all the sludge that settles to the bottom. scrape off the anode twice a day as well an the reaction goes faster.

I found this posted for sale on line. Should this poor horse be rescued or put down honorably?

Spent some time working on the wiring today. Ammeter out. Volt meter in. Volt meter is wired to ignition coil so it reads in start And run positions. This gives an indicator of battery condition During cranking. Removed, cleaned, remounted VR. Every wire except the 3 on the regulator have new ends or completely replaced. Those were cleaned. New ignition switch and plug/harness. Ran auxiliary ground from VR to volt meter to battery.

Rust Removal using Electrolysis Several years ago, and I can't recall how it happened, I came into an inexpensive and easy way to clean rust and grease, and, in some cases, paint, from your rusty cast iron and sheet metal parts. Taking advantage of common household cleaning products, items many of us have laying around the garage, kitchen or laundry room, and some science, you can clean parts from a single bolt up to an entire trailer frame through a process known as "electrolysis". What you need: A non-conducting container - a large plastic bucket works really well. Battery charger - big is better, however even one able to produce 6 to 10 amps should do. A student recently used my site as the basis for a school project and used a computer power supply in place of battery charger. Sacrificial electrodes. Concrete reinforcing rod works well (rebar) cut into lengths about 4" taller than your bucket or container. Do not use stainless steel! The results are a health hazard and illegal (more on that later) Arm and Hammer LAUNDRY soda, also called washing soda. (see below for details) Wire and/or cables for connecting electrodes together. Water. Small lengths of small chain (used to suspend the rusty parts in solution) or some other means to suspend the part to clean into the solution. The Setup: The science behind rust removal by electrolysis. Want to make your own laundry soda? Click here. Why you should not use stainless steel electrodes. Electrolysis on a larger scale - cleaning a trailer frame. Most of my Humdinger mudpump rig was cleaned using electrolysis. Loosen that stuck piston with your soft drink? Using a plastic, or non-conductive bucket (not metal), mix a solution of 5 gallons water to 1/3 to 1/2 cup laundry soda. Mix well so all soda is dissolved. Do not try to use other salts. You won't get better results and dangerous effects may occur. Caustic soda, for example, is far too corrosive. Solutions of ordinary table salt can generate chlorine gas (toxic) at the positive electrode (anode). Clean the electrodes so they aren't too rusty - especially at the top ends - they need to make good electrical contact with your wire or cable AND with the water. I take mine to a wire wheel and give them just a real quick going over. Place electrodes in bucket around sides, so the clean, rust free ends stick up above the bucket. Use clamps or some means to hold them in place around the perimeter of the inside of the bucket or container so that they cannot move freely or fall into center of bucket. The electrodes must not touch the part(s) to be cleaned, which will be suspended in center of bucket. I use small C clamps. Whatever you use, it shouldn't be copper, and will get a bit messy if it gets into your cleaning solution. Tie the electrodes together with wire or cables. I use copper wire twisted around the top ends, and have used old jumper cables. All electrodes need to be tied together "electrically". This will become the "anode" grid. Since the cleaning process is somewhat "line of sight" it's best to surround the part to be cleaned to some extent with the electrodes. Suspend part to be cleaned into bucket so it hangs in the middle, not touching bottom, and not touching electrodes. I place a piece of rebar across top of bucket (see photo below) and bolt a small piece of chain to my part to be cleaned, and clamp the chain on the rod so that the chain hangs from the rod, and suspends the part into solution below. The part to clean then becomes the "cathode". Attach battery charger - place NEGATIVE LEAD (this is critical!!) on the piece that is to be cleaned. Attach POSITIVE, or RED lead of charger, to electrode "grid" formed when you placed electrodes, or rods, into bucket and tied them all together. Make sure electrodes and part to be cleaned are not touching each other, then turn on charger. Within seconds, you should see a lot of tiny bubbles rising from the part suspended in the mixture. Do not do this inside, or in a closed area - those bubbles are the component parts of water - H2O - hydrogen and oxygen. Remember the Hindenburg? Well, actually that was caused in part by the explosive coating they painted on the skin of the craft, but the hydrogen will burn explosively so DO be careful! See how the rust and bubbles are attracted to the electrodes in the photo below? You will need to clean them from time to time - they will get covered with gunk; in fact, after many uses, they will have eroded down and need to be replaced. That is why I use rebar - it's easy to get, cheap, and most of all - SAFE FOR YOU and your environment! You can pour the waste solution on the lawn and it won't hurt it. Do watch out for ornamental shrubs, which may not like iron rich soil, however. No use making your spouse mad! How large an item can you clean? Well, it's up to your imagination, your budget - because it takes water, your time and wife's patience. Terry Lingle demonstrated this process on a very large scale using a tank made of plywood and lined with plastic, a DC welder for power supply and hundreds of gallons of water. You will need to use more electrodes with larger parts and a larger "tank". The resulting photos can be seen here - along with an explanation of his setup. How small? A student recently used the description on my web site as the basis for her science project in school. She used a computer power supply for the power source to clean a small part in a plastic bucket on a table. (photos coming soon) Safety Precautions: - Make sure no spills can get to the battery charger. (electrocution potential as with any electric appliance) - The leads from the charger are relatively safe, but you may still get a bit of a shock if you put your hands in the solution or touch the electrodes while the charger is running. - Turn off the current before making adjustments to the setup. Just as a "spark" can cause a charging battery to explode in your face, this process produces similar gases because this process splits water into hydrogen gas (at the negative electrode) and oxygen at the positive electrode). - Hydrogen will burn explosively if ignited. All flames, cigarettes, torches, etc. must be removed from the area, and sparks caused by touching the leads together must be avoided. The work should be performed outside or in a well ventilated area to remove these gases safely. - Washing soda solutions are alkaline and will irritate the skin and eyes. Use eye protection and gloves. Immediately wash off any solution spilled or splashed onto your body. Washing soda Washing soda should be in the laundry section of your grocery store. It comes in a yellow box, made by Arm & Hammer, but it's NOT baking soda. If you're interested, washing soda is Sodium Carbonate or "soda ash"(Na2CO3), baking soda is Sodium Bicarbonate (NaHCO3), and borax is Sodium Tetraborate Decahydrate (Na2B4O7*10H2O), all different chemical compounds. If you can't find it locally, call Arm & Hammer at this number: 1-800-524-1328 - they should be able to tell you where the closest place is that you can find it. Or try Soaps Gone Buy at: http://www.soapsgonebuy.com/ You can purchase Laundry soda online from Amazon.com as well according to some sources. Want to make your own "laundry soda"? Take baking soda, spread it out onto a cookie sheet and bake it in the oven at a little over 300 degrees for an hour or so it will drive away a water and CO2 molecule thus making washing soda. At temperatures above 300o Fahrenheit (149o Celsius), baking soda decomposes into sodium carbonate, water, and carbon dioxide. 2NaHCO3 -> Na2Co3 + H20 + CO2

There is a lot of potential there. I see a wheel horse tractor that is sick but a little pepto and a good enema it will be good as new.

It will undoubtedly have some PTJDD but we never let a brother behind! I wish this were closer:

Thanks to everyone for the birthday wishes. I had a great day. Started with a 5K run for charity in 30° weather, then my son & daughter-in-law and some other runners took me out for breakfast. After an afternoon of yard work, (with a little seat time), we all went out again for dinner. I'm now sitting back in my recliner with a homemade brownie and a cup of coffee thinking how lucky I am to have such a great family and great bunch of friends here on RedSquare.

Looks like a Power King.

The only thing that should be put out of it's misery is the misguided idiot that painted it. Sarge

Wash the mold off & get rid of that snowblower motor and that could be be a perfectly good tractor.

Obviously weren't brought up right.

Today the postman brought me a masterpiece, a @BOB ELLISON seat cover for the 1055. Fits like a glove and looks great.

This is what I mowed about 10-12 lawns with between my Jr. and Sr. Year in high school. 1980 Simplicity 4108. I sold it to my dad in 1982. He mowed his yard for 35 years with it. I figured it has about 1100-1200 hours on it. The mower deck was replaced. It starts right up. Uses very little oil. Dropped off a 1999 WH 312-8 I bought for him this winter. We didn't know what to do with this. So, I took it home. I think I'm going to clean it up and putz with it some. Looking it over, It probably needs about $150.00 at most put into it. And a little elbow grease!

@WHX14, @Achto, here's the offending culprits of Kohler K161 fuel tanks on the CC ORIGINAL, that keep breaking the solder around the fuel outlet bung, any tips on repair would be greatly appreciated, as well a couple pics of the original engines/tins and the tractor with few upgrades I'm planning with the repaint, besides the K181 with ring gear starter out of a Gravely, Jeff.

I have been listening to a lot of bluegrass lately and there is a gal named Mean Mary that can play anything with a string! She can really pick! Anyway, she has a song called Trumbull county antique tractor show and it has a kid with a wheel horse and a wagon in it. Thought you all might enjoy.

Welcome back BFR, it looks pretty good compared to my rat rod project, Jeff.

definitely a Power King. I have never owned one but they look like nice tractors.

Have to take a break after that read.

The last set of wheels I painted were done on a pair of feed rollers for a table saw - this way I could just roll the wheel while holding the gun in one position. That's the best coverage and results I've gotten so far. Sarge

Factory called for something like 15 lbs in the front tires and 35 lbs in the back. If you switched them and didn't adjust the pressure it was an absolute nightmare to control the car. I did it once and almost went entirely off the road within 25' of leaving the dirt road on our farm and getting on the blacktop road. Scared the bejesus out of me, I never forgot the experience. Shortly after that my brother started teasing me about the car being "unsafe at any speed" (title of Ralph Nader's book). I took the book out of the school library and read it cover to cover. The first chapter was about the Corvair's tendency to roll over if the rear swing arms went too low and typically would cut the drivers arm off during the event. Plus the car had a leak that destroyed the floor and I could never find the cause. I ended up buying a brand new 73 Vega GT, (that's another story.......) Which also fits into this thread, (You picked a winner Dan!!!!) One thing I'll say that hasn't been a bad investment is becoming a supporter to this forum, This is like buying extended family without all the hassle of an extended family. There is a tremendous bunch of really decent people on this site. (Please don't repeat that, I have an image to maintain...) Chris

Clearly these are the same buffooons that would leave a gate open after walking through.

Mash pole sign is cut. Might be too heavy and tip Howard’s tractor over.

I'd like to thank everyone for wishing me a truly is a great forum and I really appreciate all the great people here who are very helpful and friendly. I also appreciate the great wealth of information at our fingertips.

This is really interesting, but I'm getting a headache....

Trying to ID this tractor - any ideas?

My Goal is to get it running in tip top shape, will be my primary mower & i want to purchase a Leaf bagger, either that rectangular metal can that some how bolts to back or a straight up bagger. I'm starting my Collection now, Farmer Alex has enuf, SK486 on menu next . I want all big blocks over 14hp. Dont have a Garage so ill use a enclosed trailer for now

Its the balls in the hydro that pump the oil. Here is the manual for the trans.

Nice Mike, cant wait to follow along as you do it. Glenn

Another side view

First time I have seen a music video about an antique tractor show! Very cool.

Nice job there 👍

Everyone deserves a 2nd chance. Well almost everyone. You better be at the show. I don't want Jim to be all ornery and hit me with his suspenders!

Ok Fred take your time , print out all the manuals , some of us will help you . You better be at the Big Show , you owe me a dinner. Why didn't you call me?

The name Chris and Corvair must go together. After Naders book My cousin and I took ours down to where Portland international raceway is now to see if they could be rolled on a flat surface. No luck. We even would slide them through water onto dry pavement and still no luck. I'm not much of a Ralph Nader fan but I'm not much of a Corvair fan either. I'm sure they could be rolled but that can be said for any vehicle.

All My gt14 tires were original when I got it. Back wheels were rusted around the valve stem holes and they were falling apart. Fronts are peeling open to where you can see the air. I bought new hubs &wheels for the front, made wheels for the back and all are being painted this weekend. Hopefully skittles will have all new socks and shoes next week.

Some really nice looking tin under the green slime. And a hood emblem and headlight lens. Save it.

Save the Horse! A total strip down, wear a facemask. Wouldn't want to breathe any gangrene. All the above. Red Square troopers know what to do and how to do it right. Save that mistreated Stallion!

Some more progress. Lots of time and effort into that rear wheel, and i mean lots! I dont think i got it in me to do the other one by hand. All the small stuff is just about done and painted so i think im going to find someone local and get me hood and fenders and wheel blasted. Do any of you have any pointers on painting the rear wheels with spray cans? It has such a deep dish im sort of concerned about getting good even paint coverage inside.

I'll vote savable on this one.

Nothing that a massive dose of penicillin won't cure.