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Now available #7235 spring for the limited slip differential’s - they have been heat treated and have the same stiffness as the originals. Here is a https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html#!/7235-spring/p/101489902/category=23548039

Customer shared a photo of his camouflage A-90

If you want, send it here and I'll fix it - free of charge. Those nuts/screws will affect air flow patterns to the venturi, shouldn't be all that bad but it may make it tough to tune it right. I take it the threads are stripped out now in the shaft ? Sarge

A special thanks to @pfrederi and @Shynon for sending me an original spring for reference so I’d didn’t have to tare one of my transmissions apart. And I might as well tag the resident tranny guy @stevasaurus just in case anyone that he helps needs one. Thanks for sharing your knowledge Steve!

I had the day off today so I took the time to do the body work on my sheet metal and get it in primer. 1 coat of self etching primer, 3 coats of primer. Next steps will be to mist a guide coat on these, wet sand with 400 grit and get some paint on them.

Card # 1 AMC Rules Card # 2 Stevebo & Brennanbo Card #3 953 nut Card # 4 Squonk Card # 5 Vinylguy Card # 6 Sparky-(Admin)

Option 4: I'll come take the whole mess off yer hands!

Alright this is random, but since your transmission question was answered and no one else pointed this out, that RJ has the original SHOWER HEAD MUFFLER! Either way you size both of those tractors up, it was a great score! Mike

More pictures...

Oh you have to be kidding me Lowell. ... you couldn't have come up with these while I had my 5060 apart! ?!?... kudos for having Dan's HY gear! He was crappies about where to get one!

i got these two tractors of the same person . I think the transmission was taken of the RJ and put on the Suburban but am not sure

Not a lot new today as far as actual physical work on the tractor, but I made my decisions on the transmission bearings. I spent a lot of time checking and visually evaluating the condition of the needle bearings, trying and fitting the various shafts in each as well as moving the needles with my fingers. Bottom line, not really knowing for sure what a brand new bearing would feel like in each, if the bearing even remotely raised a question as far as any lateral or rotational movement, or what I perceived as excessive up and down play of the needles inside the cage, I didn't second guess myself and decided on replacement. The ones I chose were naturally the 1532 (which was toast), the 1530 (opposite on the same shaft - brake), the (2) 1508's on the input shaft, and the (2) 1528 outer end axle bearings. Some of these may or may not have needed replacement, but I kind of figured it sure wouldn't hurt anything, other than make my wallet just a little thinner. That said, I placed my order today with Motion Industries for the bearings and all of the seals ( @stevasaurus for the great leads on the transmission bearings spreadsheet posted on the forum as well as the lead on M/I). Tip to others considering this work: before actually ordering, I requested a quote from them on the needed parts, and it actually came back with a few bucks off of the listed retail prices on a few of the items. Wasn't a lot, but I guess all things considered, even the listed prices were reasonable and weren't really that excessive to begin with. The guy at the Pittsburgh branch that I spoke with said I should have them at my house around next Tuesday. I guess there is no big hurry, since I still need painting conditions in order to complete the paint on the transmission case before I can reassemble. That will give me a little more time to ponder the gears, which if I decide on any, may be that 3rd gear. The other thing I accomplished today was a road trip. I followed up on my local lead for the rascal that got me into this project to begin with, the starter/generator. I had previously researched and found a local shop (about 35 miles away) which I had never dealt with before as these places are getting harder to find than hens teeth. When I walked in, my jaw about hit the floor because my first impression was that place has been around since automobiles and tractors replaced the real horse. All I saw was shelf after shelf and bin after bin of every imaginable starter, generator, alternator part along with piles and piles of starters that have ever been made. Don't know when they actually started the business (there was only one gentleman there), but he said his father started this years ago. Now for the good part! I mentioned to him that I knew my armature was cooked, but wasn't sure about the fields or anything else, and wasn't even sure if it was worth salvaging. He immediately began to look into the thing, confirmed the armature and tested the fields which were OK, and the bearings were fine. The neat part was, he invited me back into the work area with him (you would have to see this place to believe it) while he commenced to go to work on this thing. He opens up a couple of old manuals, looks up some numbers, and the next thing I knew, we were walking back along one of those endless shelves. He walks over to one bin and blows the dust off of a box, and voila, it contains my new armature. Long story short, he says, "I'll put in new brushes too, how does $65 sound?" Well, knowing what used and untested ones on flea bay were going for, I figured I couldn't go wrong. I almost felt like the woman on the TV commercial that is running out of the big box store yelling for her hubby to hurry up and start the car! He doesn't do credit cards, cash only, so I tell him that I need to find an ATM which by the time I get back, he has the completed unit setting on a test block and in running order. This whole process from the time I walked in carrying a box full of dismantled and burned starter parts until I walked out with a completely rebuilt starter was probably in the neighborhood of an hour. When I started this trek today, I had my doubts whether I would even accomplish anything since I approached it more as an exploratory trip just to weigh my options. My thoughts were that anyone who looked in my box of burned up starter parts, after a good laugh would reply with, "and you want me to fix that old thing?" I figured that at least a bare minimum I would need to leave it and have to drive back down at least a week later only to find out that the patient had died. Anyway, overall I think it was a great day, a memorable one none the less. Oh, by the way, I did tell this gentleman that I would highly recommend him to anyone needing this type of work done. He says that he does just about everything, from autos to tractors to industrial equipment. I can pass his contact info to any of you if anyone here is interested, since these places can be pretty hard to find these days. His shop is in Monongahela, PA. No Sarge, your posts are not rambling, this post is rambling!

Power steering valve mounted, shaft cut and male connector installed. Had to cut out the u joint that was there because it would sit the box too low. I want this to where if I had to I could put the steering back stock. Didn’t want to cut the steering column tube. Now to get hoses made.

@BOB ELLISON Shippensburg is just down expressway (5min maybe) and I stay at the Holiday Inn Express. It’s the same distance (as chambersburg) to the show through some beautiful country. I’ll be arriving on Wednesday as a lot of us try getting there for Thursday to setup plus gives us a extra day to ..... ! Hope to see you there.

When you say it looks new is that after it has just been run or sitting a while. Some crud can settle out fairly quickly. Give it a good run and warm up right before you change it to get the crud mixed in the oil so it drains out.

Excellent Lowell...you won't have any trouble selling these. You just saved tons of 10 pinion differentials.

In 2004 we lived in Florida and after each of the three hurricanes we experienced I would go out metal scavenging. The wife wondered what I was going to do with all the bed frames, kept telling me to quit dragging them home. When she wanted several shelve for the garage she was actually impressed that I didn't need to buy any metal.

What A-90? I don't see a tractor????

Finally as promised... A video of the leakdown test. Those air cleaner bolts did a # on the valve seat. Tight as a drum now! No worries... I intend on getting the seats recut when I do a full rebuild down the road.

got new front and rear tires coming for my 953 rear ag's and tri rib fronts the high center rib style just got to find a rear disc harrow a rear tine cultivator and moldboard plow

I think I have figured out what to use for my "drop" spindles with out cutting or flipping the axle...oh my my ears are starting to burn... Cub Cadet "wide frame" front spindles as I was back home in WV today and has dad's Cubs out and the came on

Option 3: build the RJ and have a little fun with the remains of the Suburban.

Blue is good for light duty. Red and green take heat to get it loose. Green wicks down the threads and turns to concrete. Good stuff.

Stick with what is in there. Changing requires a complete flushing..is messy and uses a lot of fluid/oil. They work just fine on either lubricant.

That will buff right out

From the '67 brochure I have, those center sections were a really dramatic white so I don't think it's far off the original color. With age and no examples that were intentionally preserved we have to use what we can to duplicate parts and I'd say it's more than good enough, great job. Even the pleats, now that it's done look fine and I'd suspect with some butt time the puffy nature of it might disappear somewhat, that would make it even closer to the original pattern. Just go with it and be prepared for a lot of orders, that era of large/mid/short frame tractors is really popular and a lot of them get restored/rescued. Sarge

You're correct on your thinking. The tab that the brake band bolts to is vertical (RJ 5003 transmission) and the idler is the flat style that applies tension to the back side of the drive belt. The 5010 (Suburban) brake band tab is at about a 45° angle and uses a V pulley idler that tensions the belt from the inside. In other words, the idler is pulled down to tension the belt on the RJ and pulls up on the Suburban. It's possible that the very early Suburbans ended up with a 5003 but since you have both tractors and looking at the partial RJ I'd say it's an after the fact swap.

More pictures from today at the Florida Flywheelers Show!

This is what I have used on a few of mine, no problems. Two for $ 16.00 including shipping. https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-12V-Low-Pressure-Electric-Fuel-Pump-Diesel-Gas-Fuel-Oil-for-Universal-car/182455270871?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p20551

Not exactly the text book method of repairing a starter (ceramic magnets can be broken), but it worked. Your engine will have a spec number plate on it, probably 42471B presuming it is the original engine. You will want this number when ordering a starter. You are only a half hour or so away from the WHCC Big Show in June, plan on comin over, you'll love it.

Think "Electric". I use Facets but other have good luck with a variety of other brands. Al less than what a kohler pump will cost. Search on here for "Electric Fuel Pumps"

Hood latches are easy to find Joshn... Dan just gets a cheap thrill out of making his own just becuse he likes to and can ! Richard @953 nut you and Dan are speaking hieroglyphics again with guide coats and such nonsense?!?!

There ya go fellas! I'm done restoring her. Sorry it took me so long! In all seriousness...sweet machine jabelman! You found your Father a GEM!

Thanks, appreciate it. bb

I took the aluminum cushion valve to another another hydraulic shop to see what was wrong with it and if it could be repaired and it was a simple fix thank goodness, so as soon as I get some more swivels it will be going back on, the blade is wider than the tractor straight but at full angle I believe snow will fall back into/under the tires so I'm making some "cheap" extension wings just for snow duty, I cut down a 55 gallon steel drum today and trial fit till I get some flat bar or angle iron for bracing, once I get everything done and it warm up for good I'll pull it all off and paint it all dark gray matching the tractor frame color, Jeff.

Sorry to hear you're having to sell. That's one beautiful machine and one anyone would be proud to own. You're right to focus on your health and family. You'll be in our prayers.

Got my collection started today. Ordered the first two designs to make sure I was happy with the quality and colors. I think they look awesome and hope I have to order 50 more designs. Probably never going to be as valuable as a Ruth rookie card but should be a lot of fun trying to compile a complete set. Craig, I am mailing yours out to you Monday with one of my cards and kept one of yours for my collection.

@Racinbob is correct about the switch of the transmissions. I am not sure what your plans are, but it would not take too much money and effort to have 2 horses, an RJ and a Suburban running. If you are thinking like I am, I would get in touch with @Lane Ranger in Green Castle, Ind. He has a few good spare 3 piece transmissions that he just might part with. Options... (1) get another #5003 like the one you have and put it on the RJ frame. (2) get a #5010 suburban trans and put the #5003 back on the RJ and put the #5010 on the suburban. You would have 2 correct horses if you did that. Just something to think about. If you talk to Lane, he just might take that frame off your hands if you want it gone...and then he would have another RJ.

I have less than 12 months to go at my current job which I will retire from after 30+ years. We just got a dually truck and fifth wheel in the past year and plan on heading down that way to check it out We plan to put the house here on the market probably the spring of 2019. So hopefully I'll see you all in person

I would say that most, but not all parts are interchangable. There are difference in the sheet metal in the area of the shifter.

The casting is somehow just worn out. I use my blades a lot, like grading out full semi trailer loads of rock and have never had one of those go that smooth. In fact, I rarely ever trip a blade for that matter. It could be just a soft casting and once it starts popping off like that it's accelerated to this point - I'd start hunting for a good pair of complete springs and ends to get away from the problem completely. Grading rock is really hard on these blades, they really aren't designed for it and neither is the tractor nor it's frame - you really risk breaking other things when moving rock but we all do it anyway. Just odd that this one wore out that bad and it's an unusual issue to see around here. Sarge

I would agree with the previously stated. By looking at the idler pulley it looks to be that the transaxle was took off the rj. It also looks like they took the foot rest off the suburban and flipped them and applied them to the rj. I'd put the rj back together and do as 953 nut suggested, and make a custom suburban.

Nice to see that the hood wasn't cut on the RJ. With a little work you will have a complete RJ and parts and pieces to build a custom Suburban too.

Look at the casting date on the transmission center section. The date code is cast immediately to the right of the hole in which the shifter passes. That date code is the letter and numbers indicating month and year of casting. If the code year is 60 or 61 it definitely did not come off the RJ. But if it says 59 it could have set on the shelf awhile then got used on the next year suburban. Looks like there enough parts to put the tranny on the RJ and make a complete one

Sorry to hear about the health issues. Open up an add in the classifieds and please list an asking price. That thing is a show piece for sure. Good luck with the sale.

Pink Floyd "One of these days"

Sorry to hear this. Take care of yourself and pray that you will recover in time.

I would not use stainless bolts as they break very easily. They have almost the same strength as grade 2 bolts.