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I was cleaning up the lot after the plow truck left yesterday with my 876 at my friend's foster care/adoption agency. I enjoyed some quality seat time for a good cause!

Found out the 20HP in it is a repo.. motor has a build date of March 1994 and the tractor is older than that. First letter of serial number is month 1st two digits are year of build.. They quit making them in 83 or 84.

For options at the other end in terms of storage - look into the newer generation of "shed in a box" offerings. They have gotten a lot better, especially the outer materials and off a lot of options in both size and cost. For what they run now, if you have a very limited amount of room I'd consider doing that and keep at least 2 . The biggest reason I'd almost lean to the GT14/16 model is weight and brute strength - plus, it's not hard to convert it over to use the later quick attach implements although some mods as it is not just a bolt-on affair. Frame strength and all of that comes into play and that model is a beast, probably in many ways better than the bigger D too with no drive coupling on the pump system. The C series is so attractive due to it's rugged layout and overall simplicity - they are a pleasure to work on compared to the newer offerings and would be equal in choice to the bigger GT14/16. Having two with that engine, perfect combination...as well as trans choice as a bonus. Sarge

Great time working on JackRabbit with Caleb this afternoon. Caleb is getting excited now because he is starting to see it come together. Even as an adult who has done this multiple times before, I’m excited at this point too! Thanks @Ed Kennell for the advice on the petcock installation. I had Caleb read your advice on installing that fuel shut off and he did it! Let’s take a minute to talk about the shut off. One of my local circle buddies Dan stopped by and gave Caleb a shut off and grommet that he had in his tool box at work for some time. He also gave Caleb a box of 1/4”-20 Button head stainless bolts that you will see used on the dash, tunnel cover, and other visible areas that need some bling! @Achto for your investment once again into my family—you are a great friend! It isn’t a stock shut off in that you just move it 90 degrees for off and on. I prefer that for easy of use! Then Caleb turned his attention to cleaning up the floor boards. They are in pretty ugly shape but FOR NOW we are just cleaning them and installing them. Eventually (maybe this summer?) they will get restored. I picked up some new stainless carriage bolts and Caleb loosely fit them in place. While he was working on that, I removed the old starter wire. It was about 2” too short and was riding on the back of the drive belt. I had a longer one in my collection and fit that for length. Caleb crimped a new end on and then fed the wire loom over for an extra level of protection followed by installing in as shown above. Next up: finish the wiring investigation and repair, then tackle the steering column, dash, and wheel assembly...

I've been slowly making my '88 312-8 my ground implement tractor. Last week I removed the seat pan, the shift plate, and instrument plate. I got height adjustment assembly and the right shift plate and instrument plate from A&Z Tractors. I also got new decals for the plates from Terry and rear rock shaft assembly from Lowell. While I had everything off I decided to put a marine hand pump on the fuel line. I had one in the boat box stuff. Cut 6" off the fuel line, put it on, gave it about three squeezes, started the tractor which hadn't been started in about 4 weeks. With choke on, it started within 3 seconds. I think it is going to work fine. Just have to lift the seat and give it a couple of squeezes. Also, moved the seat back an inch and raised it an inch, sure helps with the bad knee. The vendors on this site are some really great people to deal with.

Been trying to figure a way to get an 8 speed transmission from Mass to Maine for about 4 or 5 months... it happened today. Thanks to @JimmyJam and his wife! Looking forward to seeing you in the spring. VERY nice folks! We picked up a roller chassis and some other stuff and got more than I even knew he was bringing up. Some new parts for my C160 build as well.

I don't know if you have a wiring diagram or not. But this diagram is of my C160 . The wires may be a different color then yours but trace a wire and it should be routed just like this.

@Big_Red_Fred, i have a 417-8 with electric lift option, this is my personal opinion I would take an onan anytime over a KT17, not sure if mine is running correctly or not but it just never seemed to run as good or have the power that a P216 onan has. My 417 was bought new by my dad so I will never sell it if I can help it. I didn't care for it right from the get go for some reason.. Maybe if I could get ti running better it might make me like it better. Right now it sits in the back of the shed to be a someday project. I know that this is going to draw some flack, but my opinion and a dollar bill will buy you a cup of coffee eric j

As long as you are in production mode! Prollybetter than by guessing and goshing with a inappropriately sized socket! What I do need is to get off my keester and pick up a bearing & seal driver kit!

You see Eric—we have to come up with “creative terms” otherwise people on the outside look in a drawer like this... and say, “when are you going to clean the junk out of this drawer?” I could’ve run to town and bought a new wire for JackRabbit but by saving most of the wiring from old projects in the past, I looked through it until I found what I needed I’ve got enough stuff (some new and most used) in there to probably wire a couple of older tractors!

A little bling bling on the 520 Josh... Thanks for the dumpster diving Dan!!

I voted gt16 due to the fact that I love that tractor and how much work you have in it. You know the hydro is good as is the engine but afterwards I thought about it. My choice would be the C-160 and the 314. When it comes down to overall usability, those two would be it. Hate to see any of them go but sometimes you just have to do what tou have to do.

Poll is running currently 51% for C160, 23% for 314H, and 14% for GT14/16 resto. I was hoping to make a decision before next weekend and start listing it all Saturday. I was leaning towards selling as a package but not sure many have that kind of slush fund sitting idle for a hobby. Decisions..decisions...... Like a few have mentioned, it would be a lot easier to reduce to 2-3 rather than 1. Storage at the other end of my relocation ihas the most impact and is driving the decision. I need to further research options which might delay my decision a few more days. I can say with confidence that the RJ35’s will have to find new homes at this point.

I kinda do already.... just also have a very leaky building. ...needs replacement. We'll be working on that within a year or two. Looking into a house addition either this summer or next. Garage is part of it. THEN a separate workshop space the following year.

Someone on the forum here on Red Square provided this example for securing the hubs more firmly to the axles. I pulled both my hubs, tapped two small pilot holes at the 4 and 8 o'clock positions, then drilled out the pilot holes with a 5/16" bit and tapped the holes with a 3/8-16 tap and screwed in some new 3/8" locks. Inserted two new 1/4"X1" woodruffs and reassembled onto the axle. Hopefully the hubs will remain in place on the axle now.

Leaving emotion and your time spent completely out of it I would keep the C-160. You can show it and use it as it's the most versatile of all you have and I think the C series are built better than the 300 -500 series.

At least he didn't do this!

Well, most of the regulars here are aware I will be relocating this Spring/Summer. I had hoped to take the remaining collection of tractors with me. However more and more it is becoming obvious that this plan wont work out for numerous reasons. As such, once I make up my mind as to which one to keep, I will be posting the remainder as well as most parts etc up for sale in the Forum Classifieds and CL. As I hope shows in poll info, I have 2 Stage Blower, Restored 48 & 60 inch(195) decks, 54 inch blade, GT14 style Tiller and a project Sickle Bar. The Sickle BAr can likely be made to work on the GT14 style tractors and the C160. I enjoy working on them but as I get older I may not have time or ability to do so. As such, maintenance and parts and ease of use of a single tractor are part of the equation. A couple of these I have poured a lot of time into but I am not emotionally tied to them and I believe if I relocate back east where Grass and tractor need becomes more necessary, I can re-create them. So help me out with my decision. A couple pics of the beasts in question:

So I picked this up for 40 bucks over the weekend..... this is one of the only places on the web that I can even find any reference to it at all. I assume it is because it is not the most popular and has a vertical engine... This one has a 8hp Tecumseh , looks to be in good shape. It hasn't ran in a while but the oil looks clean & hoses in good shape. Is there any info out there on these? I can find manuals for a commando 8 or a charger v8... I am really annoyed that I don't understand how to free wheel the hydrostatic trans yet, so its a problem to move around. When I jack it up the wheels spin opposite (open diff). Gonna try and start it this weekend after I hook up some new fuel lines.

Doubt if the Red Tractor Shed ever rivals the magic shed of Craig @AMC RULES ...

@dells68 check out @WVHillbilly520H storage shed I think he is going into the used tire business. He may be in partnership with @Big_Red_Fred about selling tractors , parts and tires at the Big Show. Double LOL

I'm not too concerned about the long term affects of the lead, the Carbon Monoxide will kill you long before the lead poisoning can cause neurological changes.

I will offer him 500, see what he say's, its been posted a year, keep yours on back burner

Most, if not all, have a tiny vent hole toward the bottom of the cover, be sure not to cover it, as I have had them "sweat":inside. Not the best scenario.

I voted for keeping the RJ-35. I'm just a Roundhood kind of guy. Beside, you can always find a "C" or a "D". It is actually too bad you have to let any of them go...they all look like new.

Well it’s a bit hard to say with absolute certainty as I am not only looking at a relocation which will put me somewhere I will likely have some longevity but also a potential role change or promotion which would put me in an unspecified location. And then to top it off, there is always a chance that the management does not make any of it worth the trouble and I stay put. id say 65% Boise ID, 15% Salt Lake City or Austin tX or Portland OR and maybe 15% I stay in current location. 5% of something completely unknown. Boise & Salt Lake would be very light mowing and hauling and Austin would be similar but slightly more mowing. Boise gets very little Snow. SLC gets some but not enough to keep the 2 Stage. Portland would be heavy mowing and little snow. As it stands, only high probability is that we are going to relocate. The Promotion could come after the relo requiring another move. As such we will need to rent until things stabilize. So storage is very likely going to have to be additional rental storage not on the rental house property. Home lots are small and rental homes that have enough space for large trailer and tractors are on the expensive side. A lot of variables that make it very fluid. So I have decided to take the conservative approach. I can always start the journey of rebuilding a herd once things stabilize if it makes sense or should I retire somewhere Horse friendly. It does well enough but one has to be sensitive to how fast you try and make it cut through snow. Can’t just hit the forward speed at max.

The SAE 40 thing came out in a service bulletin as a band aid to a shifting issue. Then they modified the shift rails and it was no longer needed. They neglected to change the owners manuals. I use 90 wt in all mine but if you use the 40 it won't hurt.

Aldon, as you spent TOP dollar on all these gems I think in the end you may have to decide what is the minimum dollar $ amt you would accept for each steed and then those go that make the cut list. While all our fellow constituents are perfect gentleman we all are also known for our tightness of those 6 inch green presidential notes. Love ya man we will all miss you.

My choice would be the 3/4 restored RJ. That way you have a project that can be completed while you re-organize your requirements for the new location. I am currently doing the same thing although my move is now only about two to three months away. Mrs. Sailor and I have been working with the seller of our future home for over a month (they are in a nasty divorce) and we are being very patient about it. A final agreement was reached over the weekend so now moving ahead with further downsizing my collection. The new property is different than my current one so requirements have changed. Going from two acres to a bit less than half an acre with no trees means saws, chipper, and splitter are definitely getting sold. Not doing five neighbors drives and my own means little snow removal. A 40" gate presents a problem with mower decks so that will need to be addressed with probably with a new beehind purchase, although gear driven - with an accent .

I'd say that's a reasonable assumption and approach. Someone might lust over one of the RJs for example, and have absolutely zero interest for instance in the GT22-8, or anything else for that matter. That could be deal breaker for sure. I think you could maximize your return by selling each of the culls individually. Of course, it would require more time and communication on your part with prospective buyers, but I believe it would allow you to find the highest bidder and get the biggest dollars for your equipment. Individual selling of tractors would likely foster more competition for any particular model.....i.e increases your likelihood of a interested potential buyer(s) with cash in hand at a maximized price. I think the numbers of individuals interested in a one time, buy-it-all-at-once deal would be dramatically lower due to the sheer money involved. Just my

Aldon, we all will have to make this decision (or our heirs) sooner or later but hate to see it happen. I would keep the GT-16 because it has your fingerprints on every part. You showed it a lot of love and did a wonderful job on the build.

Redundancy is nice and you don't have to switch implements as often. The tiller is a nice tool but how often do you use it (and the tines look a bit worn). The GT 14 is a beast ...but an older beast and is less flexible in terms of implements.... One last thought. as you age getting on and off the tractors gets less easy... Which one is easier for you. One reason I love my Lawn ranger as a chore tractor easy on easy off...

Voted C-160 but that G-16 looks tastey too.

The baby dumptruck is incredible! Love to know more about that...

Thats Alex the Farmers Cuz !

So recently I sold a gentleman a transmission rebuild kit that was from Finland and it struck me odd at first on why he was asking for parts because it was not a Wheel Horse tractor so after reading through his email and looking through the manual that he sent me he wanted parts for a MinkOMatic which is a livestock feeding machine/tractor overseas and if you read through the PDF file that I attached and go to the last couple pages you will find a parts list and exploded view of a wheel horse eight speed transmission you will notice on the parts list that the part numbers are mostly all wheel horse numbers, the transmission does have a few variations on the input shaft and on the right axle. And you will also notice the tractor has a Kohler engine in it . So I communicated back-and-forth through email with the gentleman and he told me the company is still in business today and actually has two or three brand new wheel horse transmissions in their warehouse which are very expensive, in US dollars there around $1200 each. Here are some pictures of his tractor it does have the feed hopper removed he says that he’s turning it into a tractor now. So it got me thinking what other brands used Wheel Horse parts in them???? 107SL - 109SL[62].pdf

Dell, That's my thoughts...hope you took a look at my PM reply...those N766s seem to hold real good on those light weight front ends ought to do well on the rear with extra weight (fluid or otherwise), Jeff.

OK, Mike guessed it!

Likely I'll sploooge it with a bit "o silly-cone.

Boy you have some really nice tractors.

If you wind up in Austin, let me know. I am down that way regularly. Horses are fairly scarce down here, but not extinct.

I doubt there is anything wrong with the trans functionally. I would do a flush with diesel or kerosene. I'm thinking you may have some water or very thick oil in the trans. See what comes out when you drain it and try to warm up the trans first.

Dog and tractor parts and a road trip well enough said.

When I bought my 1055 and first 953 I changed the transaxle fluid and followed the information in the manual and used Non-detergent 40 W motor oil. It has been in there for nearly two decades and is doing fine. Regardless of how hard you use your it is unlikely the heat generated will ever do any damage as long as there is a proper oil level. 90 W gear oil won.t hurt anything but as hard as it is to add oil (you can't get at the shifter very easily to remove it) I would go with the 40 W.

I find the words that we use to describe our piles of stuff interesting. Great to see that thing coming back together. I can see why you're excited

314 as many parts are available and has electronic ignition . Easy steering for the 2 stage for you as well.

I remember years ago mowing grass for my Grandfather (likely around 1975 or so). He had a cheap rear engine rider (Murray I think). Well, I was mowing a rather steep hill on the side of the ramp up to the hay mow in the barn. I went to change gears then it suddenly took off down the hill with no way to stop it. Brake was only applied when transmission was in a gear and when it took.off all it would do is grind gears trying to engage one. I just held onto it until it came to the bottom of the hill then cranked it hard onto the driveway. At that point it slowed and stopped. Weird machine, I learned to leave it in a gear when on a hill from that point on.

Personally, I'd like to get down to four. The three 160's and the 520 for the 2-stage....

From broads to hoes

That's about the only thing that could cause that but even then the only thing that turns when in neutral is the little input gear.