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here a nice original board never used from a wheel horse 417 - 8

Thats the only and best place. Terry is a member here. His product is second to none. Glenn

Definitely. @Vinylguy recommends them as well

My Bro has a nice little 1952 Excello reel mower that he's trying to find replacement wheels for. It's all original and has a 1 HP Briggs on it. I never knew they even made engines that small but they did. The little stinker fires right up and actually mows pretty well. The attached pic isn't his but is almost identical. Let me know if anyone has a lead on where to find replacement wheels for this little guy. Thx

As far as I'm concerned the ONLY place to get decals.

That is the only place I buy decals! Great quality and very good prices. If you become a Supporter here they offer a good discount too.

Terry isn't called the @Vinylguy by accident. He is the "decal" man.

100%, he's a member here also @Vinylguy, Terry can hook you up, Jeff.

OK, here's the auction update. I knew the history on both these tractors thru a local WH owner and a good friend. After checking the engine numbers, @wildman had it right, It was a 1974 A90 Special. My friend Bob had offered the PO $150 for it several weeks before the sale and he wanted $200. So I agreed not to bid on the A90 unless Bob dropped out of the bidding. There was a 42" dozer blade and frame that was sold before the tractor. Bob said he was not bidding on the plow, so I bought it for $5.00. Then the A90 was sold and much to Bobs surprise, he bought it for $32.00. We were celebrating our good buys and Bob asked if I would consider selling the plow as the peerless in the A90 had the special axle bracket required for mounting. He offered me $20 and I told him I normally sell them for $100-$150, so I wouldn't sell it for $20, but he could have it for $10. So, that's the story on the A90. A good friend got the tractor and plow for $42, and I made $5. Now for the 417-8. When Bob was trying to buy the A90 prior to the sale, the PO stated it did run, but used 2 qt of oil to mow 2 acres. The oil was black as tar and smelled of fuel. It turned over, but would not start the day of the sale. I bid this one to $150 and left it go for $160. So Robbie @12 hp Kohler, I didn't bring either one home, but I did help a friend and made a new one by loading an old cook stove for a handicapped fellow. He gave me a few deck parts that were laying on the cook stove he bought. per Paul Harvey " and that's the rest of the story".

Usually you run out of traction before power. With a gear drive like yours i would run in 3rd and change the throttle to fine tune my speed. You want the snow to roll off the end of the plow. Down side of speed is if you have hidden obstacles hitting them at speed and break things. I plow the same are all the time so thatisn't a concern. If it was a stringer area I would probably drop down to 2nd. Front wheel sliding is a common problem. Front weights and chains help. I have good luck with roller chain on my fronts.

We got 1.4" on Tue with a strong North wind that stacked up drifts to 1.5'. I got about 2 hours on the 312 cleaning up 4 driveways and mailboxes. The PennDot plows have the snow packed in front of the mailboxes. I am always amazed at what this tractor will push. Those rubber chains and the foot control are the bomb.

That's where I got mine, superb quality, easy to apply, recommend 100%

Hey Dick, heres a Jim get er done worker tractor @elcamino/wheelhorse

A set of front wheel weights will help too. I have a 25 pound weight on each front wheel. Keeping the turns less aggressive helps, I kind a plan my routes in straight as lines possible. One caution, those front chains will mark concrete.

here also a piece of history 5 years ago I visited the toro factory in belgium the wheel horse factory started in 1968 on the first picture you see a piece of the old lodge of the horse the rest of the logo and the name has disappeared because there is annex building. the next photo is one of the last models to build a 416 toro export version

Try spraying carb cleaner in as you crank does it pop at all?? Hold your hand over the carb throat while cranking do you feel suction...if not maybe a stuck valve.... Early 314 had K series later magnums which do you have?

Sorry Chris, I’ve been so busy that I haven’t had an opportunity to run over and get some fresh pics of Ken’s tractor. That is the primary reason that I have let this thread lie for the last couple of weeks. Back in in the late 1960’s “Dutch Elm Disease” went through our area and wiped out hundreds of super old, HUGE elm trees. The farmers were begging for men to cut down and destroy the affected trees in hopes that it would stem the tide. Unfortunately they didn’t do it in time. I only know of one of the giant elm trees left standing throughout my childhood and early adulthood before it finally succumbed to age. Anyway, uncle Ken took on the side job of cutting these mammoths down and burning them up. He got his blasting license(easy to do in those days) and would blow out the stumps. He was constantly busy in his spare time and got lots of experience with dynamite. In later years he would use the battery on his tractor to send the signal to set off the charge. This was the remains of an old hickory stump that was in my uncle’s personal field being blown up/out! Aunt Tricia took this pic from one angle... my cousin Paul getting to set the charge! No wonder Paul ended up in the EOD program and later the Riverines! It’s hard to believe that he is retiring after 20 years with the Navy in just a month—where does the time go? Uncle Ken was standing over his shoulder in this pic. I’ll never forget the 4th that Uncle Ken set off a quarter stick on the back side of the shed. His mother in law is a very “jumpy” person and we were all lounging around mid afternoon in the shade of the huge willow tree. I remember thinking it was odd to see him come running around from behind the shed and quick sit down like everything was normal when a split second later BOOM! Awesome! Happy 4th of July! That was several decades ago and like so many things in life, it became way to difficult and expensive to maintain the license and so all that is left of uncle Ken’s blasting “career” is the memories and a couple of pics like those above...

The lawn Ranger wasn't made for ground engaging equipment, don't think they will fit, You could buy the cultivators and then buy a to put them on!

2/1/2018. 4:30 AM to 5:30 AM, plowed 2" fluffy snow. 20 degrees, no wind. Also plowed 1 1/2" Monday 1/29/2018. 2 gallons gas. Installed new plow blade (scraper). 8:30 to 9:00 AM snow blow banks 25 degrees. 1" to 3" more for this afternoon.

Got to work on my exhaust tonight. I want to put a stack on this tractor seems it's destine to be mainly a field tractor. I kinda wanted chrome but that doesn't seem to be in the budget & "chrome don't get the work done any way". Instead I'm working with what I have laying around the shop. I don't mind loud but I don't want obnoxious so I started with a baffle tube. I did the math & marked out the holes. After the 1/4" holes were drilled I cut most of the way through the tube in the middle of the hole sets so that I could install a stopper plate. After the stopper was in stalled I made the end cap for the inside. I made this cap fit fairly snug in side of my stack pipe. I will still probably drill some holes in the stack so I can weld this end in place. I don't want to have an annoying rattle later on down the road. Then made the piece to cap off the outside of the two pipes. Now that I am this far I would like some opinions on my math for this baffle. Hold on, I'm gonna try to get technical for a bit. The area of the inside of a 1" water pipe is .86" Area of a 1/4" hole is .049, it takes 18 1/4" holes to equal the area of the 1" pipe. I drilled 28 holes before and after the stopper plate equaling an area of 1.37" on each side of the plate. The area of the out side of my baffle pipe is 1.77", the area of the inside of the stack in 3.14" do the subtraction and I'm left with an area of 1.37" between the two pipes. Given these numbers. Does any one think that I will have any exhaust flow restriction issues? I just want to get a few opinions before I burn the out side cap in place. Don't wanna chance choking the engines power.

It has been a sad week for RS members with loss of Erics Dad and Casses Mom. Last Wed., I also received some bad news. My son Mike called and informed us his best friend Dave Henry had just suffered a fatal heart attack while on vacation in Jamaica. This young man (48 years old) graduated with Mike and spent many weekends at our home. Mike had built a half pipe skateboard ramp and had a regulation volleyball court in our back yard. The yard was always filled with 10-12 kids. After high school, Mike, Dave, Hardy Hill and Caroline formed a band called Nectar and had some success playing the East coast and opening for another local band that gained international fame. That band is the York band LIVE. A few years later, Mike married Daves sister and started working for Daves Family plumbing business..Wilbur Henry Plumbing. Needless to say, it has been a terrible week. It took a week to get the body back to the US. So now the final arrangements can be made. I am not looking for sympathy by telling this story, But what you all can do for me is....get regular health check ups and hug your loved ones every day. Dave Henry (1969-2018) Caroline Hardy Hill Mike Kennell

Hey everyone, first post here. I haven't had a Wheel Horse tractor since I was young, but I'm searching for my next one currently. My grandpa was always buying and selling them with lots of tinkering in-between. Knowing my love for all tractors, he gave me and my dad this tractor to cruise around the yard with. I spent days on this thing! Sadly, somewhere along the line it was sold off to someone in northern Michigan, and I probably have no way of ever finding it again. My question is; can anyone tell me what model this is? I'd really like to find something similar for yard work now! And if by chance you know where the old girl ended up, I'd be ecstatic. Thank you!

I've killed a LOT of rust in my time from semi tankers to tiny tools with big sandblasters, electricity, abrasives and chemicals. One of my fondest is Evaporust but I just saw a video that really impressed me: http://drxcleaner.com/videos/ Anyone seen or perhaps used it? And if you haven't tried Evaporust perhaps you should.

Hello, So i just picked up a raider 12 6speed with a Kohler 12. I havnt tried to start it yet, but it does turn over. Guy said it ran last summer. However, it does not roll when pushed. It seems like its stuck in gear. The shifter will shift into all gears, and hi/lo moves too. When i jack the rear end up it will spin ok but wheels turn opposite way. The clutch (clutch/brake?) doesnt make any difference. Any advice on what to check out first? I havnt really checked it out to much yet, not even sure of the year.

Not to keep repeating anything. But ya thats the only place in my book to get decals. I have ordered many decals for my horses, panzers and my truck oh and my toolboxes and have absolutely no complaints. Always the best quality and Terry is a very good guy to deal with.

and

@Ashton Vancoutren are you convinced yet...

Yes I for sure will. Thanks for the help. Ill keep you guys updated😁

@Joshn569 Still would be a good idea to flush the transmission with kerosene or diesel fuel. It may need multiple flushes to get all the water/oil out of the housing.

M/N 1-6231 is a 1968 model. And that is the engine listed for the 1968 Raider It appears 1968 was the last Raider with the starter/generator. No Raiders listed in 1969 and in 1970 Kohler K301-47371C and 47147C and Tecy HH120s were used.

Likely there is some water in the transmission and it has frozen. get it inside and let ti thaw. Once it thaws out drain the old fluid and put in a half gallon of diesel fuel to cleans the transmission then replace it with 90 gear oil. Check the rubber boot on your shifter, probably needs a new one. This manual will come in handy.

Ed you did pretty good at the auction , made a new friend , got some free parts and an extra $5.00 in your pocket . I call that a good day.

If 18 1/4" holes will handle one cylinder of a D200 you should be OK. The K532 has same bore .25" less stroke Your cubic inch is 29.87 thee K532 is 26.7 / cylinder

Here they are..."louver" tube on left "perf" tube on right and the the two saucers are "silencers" on some models with a dual outlet muffler tip the "silencer" goes in one spout only gives it a truly distinct sound ( think Z24 Chevy Cavalier or the Z34 Lumina/Monte Carlo with V-6), also a resonator body with louver tube, Jeff.

If the spade on the solenoid is direct to battery then that's where I'd connect. IMHO - Try to avoid running through the ignition switch when I can. ....

If you want to use the lights frequently without the engine running I would go to the solenoid or battery. Having the switch in run to activate the acc terminal can cause burned ignition points. Either way use a fuse.

This wheel horse was sold at the time at a dealer in the netherlands the rj 58 that was sold at the time is now in my collection

Unless the frame and hood have swapped out, that is a pre-1970 tractor. It is a long frame tractor meaning it was made with that frame/hood combination, and with full length running boards from 1968-1969. The bulk of this tractor is either a 1968 or 1969 Charger or Electro 12. Can't quite make out the decal on the fuel tank housing.

If it has compression, spark and fuel it should fire. My guess is that the gas isn't getting thru the carb. Try pouring about a teaspoon full of gas directly in the carb and quickly try starting. If it fires, remove the carb and clean it.

Sarge, that's a lot of good info there. Thank you very much! There are a couple other gaskets that are seeping a little. Fuel pump, couple other places. So I ordered a full engine gasket set because it wasn't a lot more money. I should be all set as far as gaskets go but I could use some help getting ahold of the air cleaner itself. This engine does not have one. Love the fact that people on this forum are so helpful.

Good to hear EB although they don't cost much the fellas here have good reports about them. Don't toss the old one case you want to play with it later. Sometimes they come with a gasket.... sometimes not ....let us know if you need one I've got some and cleaner gaskets.

On the 16 Auto - I had to remove the choke shaft and swap it with the one out of the original carb. Not too hard to do - just make sure you file/grind the back side of the screws a bit on the back side of the shaft that attach the choke to the shaft first - otherwise you risk either breaking off the screw or stripping the threads in the shaft . On the side opposite the choke arm there is a ball and spring that fits into the detents to hold it in the open/closed positions inside the bore for the shaft - you need to keep an eye on those when you remove the choke shaft or they go flying to places unknown - never to be seen again. I just put a finger over the hole on the outside as the shaft is removed slowly, keeping the carb at an angle to hold those two parts when they push themselves out of the recessed hole. I do this over a small dog's water bowl to catch those tiny parts. On assembly, it's the reverse - put the shaft almost all the way in - right up to the edge of the hole for the spring. Insert the spring with a fine pair of needle nose pliers , followed by the ball. I find it easiest to have that hole facing up, drop the ball in there and use a small flat screwdriver to compress the ball and spring enough to finish inserting the shaft. It's best done in a vise, very carefully, lol. If it pops out - you'll never see it again as they are truly tiny. I do believe those two parts are available new, just fyi...lol. Once the shaft is in , install the choke plate. I like to pre-clean the shaft with brake cleaner and use red loctite on the screw threads, as well as lightly punch them with a fine center punch for insurance. You never want one of those to become loose and get ingested by the engine - that leads to other problems. Make certain that choke plate is centered nicely and does not bind in any way - it should operate smoothly. I'd spend some time checking inside the float bowl and maybe even back flush the circuits in the new carb - the knockoffs in any flavor are known to sometimes have debris in them. Then you can set the baseline settings per the book and install it on the engine from there - should be good to go. Mine does not really operate as smoothly as a Kohler carb, but it works fine for now until I can get time to get mine overhauled and back on the engine. Plan to get it done over the winter/spring before the mowing season. The knockoffs I've used all seem to have the same issue, there are flat spots in them due to their design not being detailed enough to keep the flow properties correct , it's common on many copies regardless of what they fit - there is a similar Chinese built clone on my Land Cruiser since it was missing it's original carb and even a used OEM one is really expensive. I think the clone on the 16 Auto came from iSaveTractors.com , IIRC.... Sarge

You would think so Jimbo but not real bad but now add the wheel weights and I think the tires may be loaded not sure. The blower weights a good 250 -300 and I bet the mounting bracket for the blower goes 150 so it does add up. That is a nice one Josh will have to look for it this year, would be a real job and $$ you make mine look like that! The good news is Cindy gave me blessing to keep it! .

Man—I love this site! So much good information/discussion here...

The pipe for the stack is 2" I.D, the baffle pipe is 1.5" O.D. The baffle pipe will clamp to the 1" water pipe.

I use a similar method as Achto but I drill the exhaust holes on one side of the baffle and the intake on the opposite side. Makes the sound a little quieter.

I work in an aftermarket exhaust facility, but we use "louver" tubes 99.5% of the time in our mufflers vs perforated tubing, if I get a chance to snag some for pictures later today I'll post them, and the smallest are 1.5" diameter, Jeff.

I think I'll have to change mine when it comes in. I couldn't find one that set the right way. No worries. Hacksaw, big hammer, duct tape, problem solved. ..... Carb and full gasket kit should be here mid next week.

Hey Terry @Vinylguy dad has finished all his fabrication work on his Plow for Clyde and here is what he has come up with... because of the coulter bracket he needs “the wheel horse” decal that you created above separated from the “PP-10HD”. He would like a set for each side of the plow beam. You have the dimensions written on the above photo. The Land Wheel bracket only would allow for a 1”x5” decal. If that isn’t enough space to make something look right, then we can leave that off. But if you think that you can come up with something that looks good in that size, let’s see it. Then—dad restored a Wheel Horse disc last summer that is a show only piece. He shows it on his 875. It had factory decals when he got it. He would like replacements for those. One decal for the back edge saying “Wheel Horse” like this... The other little decal is apparently a serial number. If you don’t have the font on that, I can see if he took a picture of the decal...