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My new to me 520 came without headlights, well ones that worked anyway. All too often when one picks up a new to tractor one ends up having little things that need fixing or un-cobbling or just general maintenance. I guess these little things are the most enjoyable, for me anyway, mountains to conquer. Its not like when you get her home and discover the hydro has no go or the engine smokes like a chimney or the deck needs all three spindles. Its these little things they are most easy and least $$ to fix. Since neither light worked I went right to the source first and checked the fuses and switch. Quickly discovered that wiggling the spade connectors at the switch at least one head light and one taillight would work. Cleaned the spade connectors and terminals on the switch resolved the intermittent problem but now only one tail light would work. More on the tail end later. A quick ohm & voltage check of both original 4411 sealed beam lamps revealed no one was home, both shot. A quick check of auto parts stores & TSC found that they are quite common anywhere with prices being anywhere between 11 and 18 bucks. In the interest of energy efficiency and better lighting the search was on for led replacements. I found there was no direct led replacement but these PAR36 bulbs were very similar. They are primarily used in low voltage outdoor accent lighting and can be had in many colors, wattages and light output. I settled on these from the jungle site, about 16 clams a piece, but found them on flea bay and LED light retail places as well. Note the 36 watt equivalent spec. Most if not all 4411 replacements are 35 watts. I half expected them to be encased in plastic but a nice surprise to find them all glass sealed beam with good quality. Installation truly plug & play. Fit as perfect as originals. Best off is this .311 amp draw per light or .625 per set! . Leaves plenty of room on the 20 amp charge system for more lights, heated steering wheel, heated seat & vest! More pics when it warms up abit out and I can get some decent night shots.

Seems there are plenty of other chores for a work horse in the snow even without blades and blowers. Sure have hauled and burnt the wood the last 10 days! Gary

Happy Birthday Ed, we are all glad you were born.

Sorry, Didn't mean to be so rude. After the pin was drilled out I was still faced with getting the wheel off of the shaft. Luckily the dash slipped through the cross pieces on the press so I was able to press the shaft out of the wheel. There are a few cracks in the steering wheel but I should be able to repair them.

I disassembled a tractor this weekend to get it ready for a restoration. Of course there were a few things that were "brown welded" together, the worst of which was the roll pin through the steering wheel. I destroyed my 1/4" roll pin punch trying to remove the pin. I wanted to save the steering wheel, so heat was out of the question. Next option, drill the stupid thing out. If you want to wreck a perfectly good high speed drill bit, run it against a roll pin. If you want to shine the end of the roll pin up real nice, try a cobalt drill bit. Sooo, what to do? This is what will work - A carbide tipped drill bit will cut through the roll pin. I purchased a multi purpose carbide bit but you could also use a masonry bit.

Hearing this on the radio every year was a reminder that my birthday was close. The King and I were born on Jan 8th. Now you guys are here to do the reminding. THANK YOU VERY MUCH. The good wishes and kind comments are appreciated. My birthday party took place this morning. After my normal breakfast of strawberrys, blueberrys, and mini wheats , Mrs K surprised me with my favorite cream filled donut. After that, it was off to the gym for two hours to work this treat thru the vascular system. Taxidermy work kept me busy this afternoon. I fleshed and sewed up holes in the cape in preparation for mounting the deer I harvested this year. Settled in now to watch the football game and sip a little corn juice...go Bulldogs. Thanks again to all...... You guys are the BEST

Sellers like this guy, and I don't care if he is a member here or not, are the reason many people dislike eBay. I list my brake linings on eBay and they made me take a duplicate listing down. I don't know why they haven't done the same with this guy.

While I was in my lighting groove got these from https://www.superbrightleds.com/ BA9s for the defunct dash lights..... 'bout 2 Georges apiece + ship. The tail end of the story... the orginal rear lights ALWAYS go bad (socket issues) and no matter how much you futz with them ...just get some of these. Again the jungle site or just about anywhere five of them for about the price of a 12 pak!

If you want to go this route with a collar and roll pins - use the heavier spiral pins, they can take a much higher load and that's why WH used them on so many of their parts. McMaster and others stock them in bulk quantities - it's handy to have a few sizes in stock for replacements for our equipment. It's not too hard to go into the steering shaft at the gear end and cut out that weld - I just use a 1/8" or 3/16" grinding wheel on the angle grinder and knock the gear off - makes it easier to remove it from the dash on the older models and put that stubborn steering wheel in a press to remove the shaft without destroying the hard to find wheels. Plus, when it's done it all looks stock again... Sarge

New member to the elusive 418 club.

You have spoon fed me a solution I had been too busy to figure out on my own..... thank you!

I've been wanting something different to take outside and do most of my stick welding instead of dragging my $4,000 Miller Dynasty out in the weather - it's been hit by sudden rains twice now and replacing it or any of it's electronics gets real expensive really quickly. I've been looking at some of the AHP and Everlast machines for awhile now - their price point and reputation is stellar as well as their performance. AHP generally has a higher duty cycle compared to Everlast but their selection is quite limited for now - one 200a ac/dc tig/stick machine, one plasma cutter and one small 160a dc tig/ stick. Part of what sold me on their brand was the welding shop next door - he's an old school guy that prefers the transformer machines for their raw power but he wanted to get more into tig work for special jobs. Used scratch start off an old Lincoln Dialarc 300 for years but it's limited to dc only and no high frequency capability. After he had used my Miller Dynasty 200DX a couple of times he really wanted one - but he's about to the age he wants to slow down and get out of the business and retire. Biting off the cost of that machine is pretty tough and their value does take a pretty good hit used, so that wasn't going to work. We had discussed in the last year about some of the bargain-priced inverter machines and how these smaller companies were really starting to compete with the bigger names in reliability, quality, and overall features. Most of these were designed with the hobbyist in mind but in the last couple years they are aiming for the bigger commercial markets to directly compete with Miller, Lincoln, Esab, ect... After checking out a lot of reviews and videos he pulled the trigger on AHP's Alpha Tig 200 ac/dc unit - under $900 delivered to your door and includes everything but the argon gas to use it. We've both been quite impressed with it's performance so far - he loves running 7018 stick rods as well as the tig function and has taught himself how to use the more advanced pulse functions and frequency controls in a pretty short time. I've tried to help when I can about specific settings for doing special work and his experience in running scratch start basics has made it pretty easy for an older fella to pick all this up quickly. He's had it now for about 6 months - the thing hasn't blinked once and it gets used pretty hard in the shop - even taken outdoors to work on large equipment, pretty impressive stuff. Had one little issue with the tig trigger switch failing to work - it had pulled one wire off it's board, a quick solder job and it works perfectly. The more I hear about these machines the better it gets - these small companies are out to make a serious dent in the market and the bigger names have somewhat dropped the ball on quality of components all the while their pricing point just keeps climbing. Both Miller and Lincoln are now using Mexico sourced parts - not a good idea in the welding world since it takes very few failures to lose customers - welders don't have the patience nor the time for equipment that doesn't hold up long term. I've been wanting the AHP Alpha 160st for awhile now - but they have been out of stock since October. The rep said they keep getting slammed with orders and it's no secret that industrial shops are buying this model to use as a small portable for field work where it isn't practical to drag out long leads off an engine drive or up a ladder. I know there has been posts on some of the forums about small schools purchasing quite a few for teaching/certifying Pipe welding - this little lunch box sized machine is more than capable of running lift-arc tig root passes as well as the 7018 cap and fill passes on pipe welds - it's arc performance is that good and the weld quality can easily pass x-ray testing. http://www.ahpwelds.com/product/ahp-stick-160st https://www.amazon.com/AHP-Alpha-160ST-Stick-Welder-Voltage/dp/B01HDUMAUC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1515423667&sr=8-1&keywords=AHP+160st The price works out a little cheaper off Amazon - don't sweat the listing as saying it's a 2016 model - they are the current market 2018's and come directly from AHP anyway so it's not a problem. That is directly from AHP's tech staff since I questioned the listing and had other specific questions about this machine that are not listed in it's specifications. Enough rambling - I know....here's a couple pics This thing is ridiculously small - like, half the size of my lunch box I take to work and far lighter @12.5lbs. No wonder guys have been putting a strap on them and welding stuff off a ladder, lol. A few notes that are specific to this machine that they don't tell you - stuff I consider pretty important. Their tech people recommend never using ANY cellulose type rods - none, including 6011. They also stated to keep the leads short - like 10'-12' long at most. Longer leads puts more feedback to the electronics and can shorten their lifespan. The front panel DINSE connectors are the smaller 25mm size versus most using the larger 50mm size. Roughly 3/8" diameter vs. 1/2". No big deal, several companies offer 50x25 adapters for that - I ordered a set the same day as the welder from one of the welding suppliers. Didn't want to have to use an odd tig cable/gas adapter to run my various tig torches. The lift arc tig function has a ramp-up style feature - it takes a second or two to hit the full knob setting for the given amps the welder is set for, this is a good thing. That one difference is why I didn't want the Everlast 160 model despite it having an internal gas solenoid and high-frequency start/remote capability. That other model is a little more expensive but easily twice the size of this one - all I want is a basic machine that is light and small - and cheap. Dragging the extremely expensive 60lb Miller outside is not something I want to do - the thing is just too expensive to replace and it's internals would scare NASA. Now, this is a 120v/220v machine. Shown on the display is it's max capability on 120v power - it comes with an adapter cord to go from the standard 50P welder plug to the common 120v 15/20a wall plug. At 120amps , that's close to being able to run 7018 rods in 1/8" size - but, the limiting factor is always the wiring from the plug to the panel in any structure. These machines are known to easily run the 3/32" 7018 rods almost continuously without a problem - but the wiring to the panel/breaker must be up to snuff or you'll be tripping the breaker often. You should really have a good quality 25amp wall outlet and minimum of 12ga wiring back to the panel - as well as keep that wire run short as possible if you want to run it on 120v often. They will also draw a lot more inrush current on 120v as will any machine - my Dynasty will almost always pop a breaker within a short time in comparison to this little machine - the Miller just has a lot more electronics drawing on the circuit in comparison. Using multi-pass methods you can easily do some very thick materials using 3/32" 7018 rods - it's an industry practice that commonly used in the field for high stress work. Anyway - just thought I'd put out the info on it and testing will hopefully begin soon. I need to pick up a valve type torch or at least a handle to run the gas since this one is not equipped with an internal gas solenoid. No big deal - I can always use another torch - lol. I've been pretty sick the last few days and the weather lately has really kept me in the house - hoping to at least get it outside and run some rods to fully test it's power levels and ensure there are no problems. I can find only a very few complaints about these things on the net - just a few have arrived DOA for whatever reason and AHP promptly took care of it - this machine has a good 3yr warranty. Looking forward to having something much smaller/lighter that I can set up and go to work a lot quicker than dragging out the Miller. That expensive tool lives in the basement shop and is really a dedicated tig machine for nearly all metals with it's advanced tig functions. I do have an old Lincoln AC185 buzz box sitting outside under a garbage bag for years now that gets occasional cellulose rod duty - it burns 6011 quite well and despite living out there in the weather it has never missed a beat - pretty good investment for a $25 welder my brother in law found at an auction - no idea why no one wanted it but I'm glad I grabbed the opportunity. It's a highly capable machine, much more than just hobbyist or entry level and for the price point can do a lot of work. No ac side to it so any aluminum work is out, but the dc on these runs so smooth it's almost disgusting - Miller and Lincoln need to seriously up their game as more and more professional/industrial shops are buying these things at a fraction of the cost of the big name machines. I've got a buddy that bought out an old friend's shop nearby in my old hometown - can't wait to show him this thing since he owns and regularly uses a Miller Maxstar 150 that cost him $1,800 at the time it was new and he's had issues with it lately. I've always wanted a small Maxstar - but even used they are super expensive and are known to burn out if pushed too hard - for the price point of the AHP you can't go wrong and their performance record is stellar. For anyone wanting to get a good dc stick rig at a very reasonable cost or learn to tig weld steels - this is a great machine for the money. Sarge

Did a nite test tonite and were just as illuminating as the OEMs if not a tad more. The 3k color is much like the 4411's. Unfortunately the tall chute blocks quite a bit of the light and the fact that the bezels block abit of light as well, leds and originals alike. Like putting a round peg in a square hole! Going to swap them out to the short chute tractor for more tests. I don't need lighting on the main sno chucker (short chute till the deuce ship comes in) as the cab lights will land an airplane but for after dusk tub rides in the summer for the kids & love rides with the Missus might be just the ticket. I believe I have seen these offered up to 70 watt equivalent. Some more research is in order.

This is my main plow tractor. Honestly it's a beast in the snow and also a blast to play in the snow with.

My guess is he wants to keep it and his wife wants him to sell it and he is telling her how hard he is trying!

So the 418-c didn’t have a louvered hood? Interesting. I would figure any of the twins would have that. I wonder what the reason for leaving them off the C series and putting them on the A and -8 series was? If it were functional, I would think they all would have them. Must have just been for looks? My 417-a and 418-a both have louvered hoods. I know I hate when it rains as I get water on my air cleaners so I have to cover them. One day Ill have a magic shed. 👍

Happy Birthday Ed have a good one my friend . I’m sure this brings back some memories !

Happy Birthday Ed , hope you have many more. Your wisdom and experience is very valuable to Red Square and keeping the guys from going down the slippery slope on some threads is most helpful.

I found its easier to cut the shaft and collar and replace with a new collar and a length of 3/4 stock.

It didn't happen if ther are no pics! Other than th e one crack down the lenght of the spoke that wheel didn't look too bad either.

It's your day Ed, hope it's a great one.

If John hadn't made a motor cycle out of a snow plow frame you could have used his. There goes Van for a test drive!

I have a gravel driveway and we both have 4 wheel drive. If it isn't deep enough for the blower, it's up to nature...

A tractor for every implement....The only way to fly.

Use dielectric grease...

This is fascinating...! I’m up on the roof working away but in between waiting on my cut man to hand me sheets of plywood, I’ve been following this discussion! Keep it up, let’s see if we can get to the bottom of this. @CasualObserver can you weigh in on this? While we we are comparing the C to the A—I’ve read that the C has faster gearing. Is that true? I know that JackRabbit is definitely faster than my cousins 520H but...?

Hey, if it's free on pickup, I'll go in with somebody. Me likey freebies! Any takers?

, anything under 4" the snowthrower(single stage) is kind of a waste, but anything above yep it'll throw it out of your way for the next event, but since you have 2 tractors keep a plow on 1 and thrower/blower(2stage) for the other, then you're good from 1" to 2' of snow, Jeff.

Good information there! Thanks for posting!

Richie , I think your magic shed is missing the sides and roof, like the floor.

Happy Birthday Ed!

Not the best copy. Click on the picture first.

sure is. That's why I have cut the shafts on several of mine. Pretty easy to reconnect them with a sleeve coupling and two more roll pins

HAPPY BIRTHDAY, Ed You're a great role model for all of us 'old Horse collectors'. Stay forever young. Jim

@PeacemakerJack I may have a spare fan on my parts tractor.

Welcome to the forum. A bit of info. Click on the fuzzy pictures below and then download from there. Garry

We have and older gentleman Don who has come to plow with us on a 418A with a 12" brinly and pulls it with ease all day. I wouldn't be too worried about that hydro.

battleship gray

Routing the tube into the air cleaner is purely an emissions move. The thought is that it is better to burn any oil vapor than it is to just blow it into the air. It also keeps oil build up in the tube from dripping on to the ground. Another benefit of routing the tube into the air cleaner is that it keeps any oil vapor off of the outside of the engine, so things stay a little cleaner. It's good that you are finding and fixing all the little issues. Looks like a shoe man may have been there before you.

I was driving this tractor daily. The oil was contaminated pretty bad. I should be able to see the other fork but I can't? There is no way to look straight down into the transmission. I know it is frozen and will be thawing it out, doing a flush. Even if I do pull it, the flush won't hurt. I had this trouble with it getting caught between gears two or three times already, this time it is really stuck! Ha ha ha! I plan on tearing it apart and doing a refurb., maybe it is getting close to that time........ Oldman

There's some really neat old stuff here and it's fun to look at. Thanks for sharing. I just got rid of my "vintage" '97 F-250. It was a good truck. I missed it for a couple of days after I sold it, but that mourning period was a short one. I don't foresee keeping my current truck more than 5 years before trading it on something with a warranty, good brakes, and good tires. We had a chance at a couple of really nice 1948 IH farm trucks a couple years ago. One a 1.5 ton, the other a 2 ton. One had 22000 miles, the other 30k. Rust free beauties from Kansas. Problem was licensing for them was just too expensive to have desire to deal with. Sweet trucks though. I've kind of soured on old vehicles in general and would never again want one as a daily driver or something I need to depend on. My days of tinkering with old crap is largely over since I've lost the time and desire for my vehicles to get me dirty. But I am SOOOOOOOOO glad guys like you keep them on the road since they are a blast to look at and dream about! Unless an old, completely stock and original, first generation Bronco fell in my lap....that might flip me back. Steve

I see a couple of you are also squarebody chevy owners! Here's my setup, 89 414-8. Finally have the setup dialed in pretty well, it hasnt gotten stuck one time this year.

Pretty much, lol

The biggest trick on a D is that hydro coupling between the engine and the pump. Since it's off the flywheel side of the engine it puts a lot of limits on what can be used. I'd start hunting for a K482 or K532 twin engine from a D180/D200 with a pressurized oiling system - which is the downfall to the K341 single engine. Honestly, those bigger twin opposed iron series engines were about the best ones Kohler ever built - just ask any machine shop that works on Kohlers. The other main issue is the overall length of the crank - if you alter that length with a different engine it will screw up the whole PTO system off the other end of the crank and then you'd have to alter a lot of the tractor to make it work. They have been a few swaps done - everything from Predators to other brands.

@Alan R. Alan I do have a question what do you do for a living before becoming a gentleman of leisure ( retirement) ?

getting there Alan looking good, can help you with decals if you need them. I have both early and late D-series on file and can scale them and change the engine size if you want. mark

My Raider ten was a snow plow tractor in its previous life. The Woodruff Key slots in the axles wallowed out pretty badly. Bad enough that the tractor would lurch forward in a sort of free fall for about a foot until the key flopped over in the slot.. The little guy mowed a lot of grass until I discovered the exact cause, because i thought it was something in the transmission internals

My 1961 Tiger tractor uses a Wheel Horse transmission steering wheel and seat and seat spring.

It's truly impressive, how well a little round hood moves snow... with no more than just adding a front mounted weight.