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My wife bought this for me last Christmas. After finishing a C121 I thought this would be a fun project. Little did I know at the time it would take 11 sometimes extremely frustrating months. This one was truly an education but I had lots of help from the folks here at Red Square, Stevasaurus in particular. My neighbors father who is now 92 came to my rescue when I "couldn't see the forest for the trees" with the ignition. So...... Here she is!

Who ever imagined the role a Wheel Horse can have in shaping the next generation. The grandkids love these machines! So much healthier than their new technology toys.

Sorry Jim, Terry does awesome work but don't know if he works miracles.

Tried to spend most of the day yesterday finishing up the utility trailer and getting it ready for service on various tasks that need done , as in NOW as the weather here has changed drastically . Temps yesterday hit the mid-60s but it came with 40mph winds . Hard to even concentrate but I got the lift assist cables done and everything works as it should . Loaded up the little Deere lawn tractor I use at times to mow /backup as well as the engine hoist and the old push mower - those items need to go out to the storage unit asap and get out of the way and weather . Late afternoon I looked at the yard and realized that grass had gone crazy on a growth spurt the last few days of rain/warmer weather - decided to mow "real quick" . The Deere did a lousy job last time and left a lot of clumps as usual - it's discharge plugs up far too easily and it can't handle cutting any more than about 1-1/2" at a time . I wanted to knock it down to "one notch off dirt" and the 16 Auto has my "good" 48" deck that I run doubled blades on - standard hi-lift on the bottom and Gator blades above those , it mulches up the grass great and seems to discharge much better . I cut almost 4" off the top and left it pretty short for winter - same as always and the grass always comes back nicely in the spring . Went pretty well , the old Kohler rattling along and barely ever touched the governor - until I just barely caught the drainage inlet in the lower back yard - the ground has sunk this summer from some really heavy rains/flooding and the cover is sticking up more than usual . That was a bad hit and it caught both blades on the discharge side - cast iron versus hardened steel at high rpm is never a good thing .... Can't believe the blades actually cut a notch out of that 60lb cast iron cover - those things are very tough and designed to withstand heavy equipment running over them . What is even more surprising is it did not damage the spindle - it still runs dead true with zero wobble . The hit did bend the deck housing slightly just inboard of the spindle - a few choice whacks with a 4lb hand drill and a block of wood fixed that - it was trying to hit the blade tips to the center spindle . Deck still cuts nice and flat now , just as it always has - amazingly tough parts . Both blades suffered some pretty heavy damage but luckily didn't break or shatter as they sometimes do - I was glad of that . Caused a 20 minute delay swapping the blade set for some old used ones ( I always save a couple old sets) and fixing the bend in the deck shell . Finished the rest of it in the dark and it looks great - temperature dropped 38* last night and today the high is 43* with high winds , again . Glad I got it done , hauling out the load to the storage unit later today . Here's the crazy property I mow where we rent - lot of hills and holes and places where no Kohler K series should ever go except up/down , never side hill it when mowing . I'll have to grab a pic of the one blade that got the worst of it - held up amazing well against that cast iron . Sarge

Terry does great work . Wonder what he could do on Wife for sale sign ?

I asked Terry @Vinylguy if he could reproduce a dealer advertisment from one of my Dealer Binders into a decal, this is what i sent him And this is what he came up with ! Not only did he make the decals like i wanted he made them into his awesome aluminum signs too! Cant wait to hang it up! Again THANKS TERRY!

If you want to replace the lines with something better but don't want to fight the stainless steel - use Ni-Cop line . The nickel and copper blend bends easily and with a proper swaging tool they are as good as oem . Much easier to work with than the old coated steel which rusts here faster than you can replace it - I went to Ni-Cop shortly after it came out and have never looked back . Lines I did when they first released the stuff still looks new despite the owner's not treating the underside of the vehicle very well . The amount of broken/rusted brake parts laying along the roads I work on here in Illinois is amazing - even found a couple whole calipers with their mounting ears broken off from corrosion . It's the steering parts that are really scary - some of this stuff is kinda important...? Sarge

What ! ! and lose all that repair money??? no way

I have a friend down the road from me who has modified a 2 wheel hand cart. He just lays the hand cart on top of the deck, inserts a few pins in various locations and now he can tip it back up and the deck is mounted to the cart. He flips it over for blade sharpenings also uses it for winter storage.

One line rusted through is a precursor of others that will fail if not replaced. The snow melting chemicals that are used have been a problem for ever, you would think the auto industry would have gone to Stainless Steel lines years ago.

When it comes to electronic devices you need a kid around to show the way, but on mechanical devices we old codgers rule!

The verdict is in. It's been 8 days since I installed the check valve. Plenty of time to force me to crank it several seconds to get the fuel back to the pump. This time I don't think the engine made a complete revolution before it was running. Most of the fuel line is hidden so I picked a spot that was easy to get to. I don't really think it's critical where it goes, just between the tank and pump. Mine happens to be just in front of the steering tower where the line comes out from underneath.

I use a 5/8" rope block and tackle to lift horses and deere to 0.27 ton (540lbs).

After back surgery last November, I installed a 1000 lbs chain hoist to the rafters. I purchased a better brand from Grainger about $200. Now, I disconnect and raise the front of the tractor and roll out the deck. Lower the tractor, roll it back and raise the deck. Pricey, but I wish I have done this years ago.

I guess I'll throw my in here, I always buy high test 93 octane gas at Giant Grocery stores, so I'm sure it's not the highest quality gas out there, I add stay-bil before I fill my cans. My gas is usually at least 3 months old before I ever put it in a tractor. I just put gas in a tractor today that I bought 7/31/17. Then some of the tractors sit around for almost a year or more before it gets run out. I never fill the tanks on the show tractors that only get run a couple of times a year. But my point is I have not had any problems with this method. the 93 octane gas has more additives in then regular gas. Do I believe that ethanol free gas is better ? yes I do but we get $0.10 per gallon for every hundred $ we spend on groceries and can save discount up for 2 months. One time we actually got gas for free. so this is why my gas can be several months old before I ever use it. I try to keep 10 to 15 gallons of gas on hand at all times because I can go through 5 gallons in a little bit of no time with as many tractors as I have, and no don't ask how many I don't want to count or know for sure my self becuase I don't have a problem everybody else that don't collect tractors do have a problem I will repeat what rmanynard said if it works for you then go for it, my method works for me so I will keep using it eric j

With a welder and talent, anything's possible.

I had the same problem with the lower end of the hose on the rear where the steel lines connect to the block. One fitting came off good but the other one was rusted to the line and wouldn't turn without twisting the line so I soaked it with kroil and worked it back and forth until it broke free and I saved the line https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news/feds-end-gm-brake-line-rust-probe-advise-owners-to-wash-underneath-their-cars-and-trucks-040915.html Seems like a common problem with GM trucks I do need to check and replace all the corroded brake lines I would gladly pay a little extra for the truck if they manufactured it with stainless steel brake lines.

It's almost a bit funny - we don't work smarter until we get old enough to hurt ourselves . I'm pretty stubborn - it took 2 hernias and an old back injury as well as both knees that are destroyed from a construction accident to learn to work smarter . I finally bought a used engine hoist - surprising how handy it is . Next up - a lift table . Getting up/down off the ground is getting to be a no-no and now if I do certain things I really pay for it in days spent on a heating pad - that doesn't get much work done . One thing I always wanted to build for use on all this stuff I build/work on was an A-frame , just no place to put it here and what I have in mind isn't exactly small ... Sarge

Along these same lines, except I got one of HF's electric hoists to attach to the rafters -- I have gave myself several "attaboys" since!

Bringing them up right!

To change or sharpen blades I hook the engine hoist to the front of the and raise it up. I too had spinal surgery a couple years back and need to work smarter now.

Finally took some pics. It's getting there.

gm trucks blowing brake lines,????????? TO GAIN EMMISIONS CREDITS,,,gm LOWERED THE NICKLE CONTENT IN SOME BODY PARTS,,,,,,((BRAKE LINES)) WECOME RUST.......

Cleaned up the horse today. Really cleaned off the steering wheel. And worked on the wiring a little bit. Just waiting for parts right now.

Temporarily wired her up and gravity fed some fuel to it. I think the plug needs replaced but it ran and didn't sound to bad.

I am with Sarge here. My GMC Sonoma blew out the rear brake line a few years ago then the fuel line that ran next to it at a low spot in the frame (crappy design). Replaced both with Copper Nickel Ferrous Alloy tubing I bought a roll of 1/4" and one of 3/16". Have used it on my m37 and on several friends vehicles. Not cheap but super easy to use and never had a problem with it and corrosion. Bends easily but be careful repeated bending will "work" harden it and make it difficult to shape.

How I finished the season in my 2 classes.

I used threaded bolts from the reverse side and mounted the wheel weights. In essence I am able to mount the tractor tire as I would on a car or truck. It is a chore regardless of how you mount them. Then I located lug nuts that would fit. It is easier for me to handle mounting the tire this way.

The local auto repair shop told me that the "beet juice" used on the roads as a "pre-treatment" for snow is really hard on brake lines. The Chevrolet dealer has a complete brake line replacement kit for around $100....BUT the cab is supposed to come off to install the lines, so add $500-$600 to the cost. A fellow at work did tell me that he and a friend did manage to get all the new lines replaced without cab removal but it was tough!

Look at the bright side, if the truck wasn't safe to drive you could have towed it home with the horse!

I don’t know about that ! @Vinylguy Terry took my vision for my 520 and it was like he was reading my mind. Terry you’re the best .

I use Kroil as my solution for tough parts removal. Four assemblies fall into this "tough" category: Hubs, steering wheels, rear hitches and rock shafts. Spray the living snot out of the interface. Repeat for 4 days and then try tapping it apart. If this does not work, hit it with a torch, but not red hot and let the Kroil wick in as the materials expand. Be careful, Kroil is flammable. BTW, do not try the torch idea on a steering wheel Yes, Kroil is expensive, about 3x of PB Blaster but well worth it. Haven't trashed a steering wheel yet and I have taken 5 of them off without disassembling the tractor. Hard to find. Order from the factory, they run a special once a year, two 12 oz (I think) cans for $19.99

I'm not sure if this is the proper use of the height adjustment on the lift lever, but I have it adjusted so that it holds the dozer blade about an inch and a half above the stone driveway so that I'm not plowing stone.

Tight fitting sleeve over shaft once rusted they become inseparable. A lot of heating with a torch is the only answer. once it is red hot all the way it should come off the shaft. Be sure to put some Never-seize on it when assembling.

Not `100% decided yet, but probably D - 80 or D -100. Photo's and measurements of D -160's and D -200's were used in the build. Half size model, half the number.

Yup. you need the longer frame. Get a late 60's Raider or similar model convert the rear like a 1045 with the round fenders and add a mid & front tach o matic

Thanks, great to be here, owned quite a few Wheel Horse's over the years. I currently have a C141 (currently with a 5000 watt Wheel Horse generator mounted up), Electro 12 (sort-of), and a project tractor, a 417A currently getting repowered with a single cylinder Kohler 16 hp (work in process). My primary plow (snow) tractor has been a parts bin machine I picked up years ago, has an ID tag and hoodstand from a 1970 Electro 12, a rear end/hydro from a GT 14, a C series hood, and has been updated to take Attach-A-Matic implements... It's been an awesome machine, I've owned it for over ten years, and have stripped and repainted it a few times. I till with it, mow with it, and push snow with it. The last few times I've used it, I've had some issues, the hydro is getting sloppy, neutral position is pretty much non-existent, and the hydro seems to get weak the longer it's ran/used. I guess the point is, I have the old Cub, and it's a very well made machine, just no fun to change attachments... So... I'm thinking about fitting the WH plow up on my Cub for this winter...

https://www.inlinetube.com/ http://www.classictube.com/

For long frame tractors. You would not get a modern deck between the front and rear tires. Garry

Check with one our vendors here.

I have a 418 A (Hydro vs the 8 speed gear you are looking at. The 8 speed is about a bullet proof as you can get 1-1/8" axles 8 pinions. The engine is a Kohler Magnum 18. That is also an excellent motor full pressure oil system and reliable magneto ignition. if there is one thing WH didn't specify an oil filter, other users did and it should be possible to retro fit one. If there is a problem area it is the stupid idiot light panel. prone to failure but you can easily bypass it.

Welcome to the forum. Garry

Been there done that. Seems like the one that usually goes first is the one behind the gas tank...

Go talk to any motorsports dealer about engine warranties and fuel quality - you'll get an earful really quick . I know of 6 different manufacturers that will not warranty against ethanol damage to small engines - it happens more often than they care to admit . We need some real hard looks at how the lobby system works within our Government - they are doing some real damage . Sarge

and kids go together like peas and carrots!

That definitely looks like all lines should be replaced Chuck. Scary story, glad you avoided the crash.

Maybe the key is bent or even sheered. You would get "spark" but the timing would be off and it wouldn't "fire". I had that happen with a HH60 on a 654.

Here A Pic For It My RJ59

Muffler done, fits like a glove. Hope it sounds good.