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hi men, since the fender pan and belt guard were removed for the seat support repair, i also removed the hood. special thanks to my bud mark for the fresh automotive paint and clear. new decals from terry, super guy! custom stainless steel exhaust stack from john at blue ribbon welding in chester ma. the stack is something i bought at home depot. (actaully its a shower safety grab bar) my bud harry fabbed the rake mount so it works with a clevis hitch. and thanks to my friend phil for the pics. enjoy mike in mass.

The secret to putting them on straight is to mist a little water onto the decal and the tractor. Then you can move them around until they are straight. Squeegee the water out and let them dry.

More details.

Well, Road Runner has been at the spa for the last two days. I pressure washed his frame, stripped and etch primed the seat pan and hood, removed the brake drum and drive pulley, replaced the bent spindle, and did a few other things. I plan on welding up the broken seat mount holes (pretty common failure I think) and a few rust holes in the tower tomorrow. I removed the brake pedal and plan on making the clutch pedal operate the clutch and brake to make it easier for Emory to operate. Well, worn out, time for bed!

I removed the drive tires on Alex the Farmer's ( My Son ) 310-8 today at work to show you all how many ours is on it ! Look at the wheels ! Still brand New, he got this from a Man who's Mother was suppose to be using it never used it, its a Very low hour tractor, check these wheels out & how shinny the paint still is, Im figuring its a 1988 model by rims, whats your thought ? BRF

Well I finally got my plow skids on my C160 snow pusher. I'm trying to get ready for winter. I have a gravel drive way and ever spring I have to clean up all the gravel in the side yard before I can mow the grass. So I ordered some skids and welded on a plate to support them. I had a tough time with my old mig welder with all the splatter from it. It doesn't look all that good but it will hold for sure. I have the blade about 1/2" high and still have threads on the skid for more lift if need be.

I like to use bed rails for things like that. Thin, but very strong. The steel is bent really tight on the inside corners [unlike an a standard angle iron] ,and you might get by placing it over or under the existing frame with just bolts or a plug weld. I also have used circular saw blades cut up with a mini grinder to reinforce things. Bed rails are easy to find as they are often thrown away, especially in college towns I get all i need when tenants move out, so talk to a landlord if you know one.

to the Looks like a 1988,89 520H. It looks well maintained, but is difficult to tell w/o seeing it in person. Ask for maint. records. Check bearing condition in blower ad mowig deck. How any hours on the clock. Is engine smoking or surging. $1200 is on the high side, but may not be bad for your area. Make sure you get the mule drive and belt for the deck and the lift rod and flag for the blower. BTW, posting a CL ad is not permitted. The mods may remove it.

It's an 18, and I will replace the stacks with a stock two into one as soon as I can. I got it bought for $700. The white lettering has to go. It appears to be a 1982 according what the original owner told the guy who restored it. New starter, new solenoid, new belts, all new deck pulley's, and no smoke. Runs like a top and mows well. The hydraulics work and the grader box was just icing on the cake. I am sure I will be asking lots of questions shortly. Thank you all for your advice and input. It appears to be an 18hp Briggs. No sticker under the seat anymore. Saw picture before it was restored, it is a work horse. It was a rusty work horse 😂

Oldarmy's 1977 B80 8 speed

This is my new to me in March 2017 1977 B80 8sp.. Work on the restoration was done by PO. It sports a 36" side discharge deck and has had an engine rebuild of the original 8hp Kohler. This Horse is still a working horse even though she looks purdy.

hi all, the typical 3,4,500 series wh seat support cracked and broke on my 312. i welded in thicker metal and added gussets. love my hobart mig! mike in mass.

Last one I did I just matched it up to the old one and cut it off, ground it smooth just like original

It's really no big deal Jeff... just wanted to illustrate here, that taking your time... utilizing a common sense approach, one can retain the "weathered" factory appearing paint... without doing a complete strip, then repaint job.

I'd soak the crank pin in muriatic acid and see if the aluminum residue comes off.

It's been a long time since I've undertaken a tractor project. Recently got married, moved, got a new job that keeps me busy so I haven't really had time. Now that I got the garage at our place cleaned out and ran electricity through it I'm ready to take on a project again! First one that I'm gonna take on is this 1045 I purchased a while back. It isn't perfect, but it's mostly there. Engine doesn't have enough parts on it to make it run, but it has compression so that's a start. I've been accumulating parts for it thanks to the big show and some members her so now I have enough to get it going. I'm excited to rear into it and see exactly how bad it will be! First thing I'm concerned with is possibly the hood. The previous owner put this bracket on so he could mount the hood while using the makeshift snowblower that was on it. He must have cut the normal attaching rod off. Now it looks like if I weld on a new rod, the hood will hit my muffler. Anyone have a 1045 that can give me some measurements of the hood to make sure mine is correct? Looking forward to this project! Mike

Here is a mid '90s 520H near you for $600. No blower, but it has the forward swept axle and reduction steering.

I see uncovered all the time, rusting away, even other Makes & Models ? Let alone a Classic Car in a field, makes no Dang Sense Bob

I would guess that's what the guys do Mike as the length of the oil dipper is the only difference. I would like to know how did the crank break? I might have an extra crank Mike, will have to check if its inch or 1 1/8" tho.

Humm...seems that I never posted images of the results of my refurbished hood repaint. Intention was to not make this look like an obvious repaint, but to make it blend into whats left of the factory paint on the hood sides... ultimately knocked down the high gloss with a pad of #0000 steel wool...I'm pretty happy with the final outcome. Anyways...a lot better than it appeared before.

sounds like it has a 10 pinion limited slip, they can click as the steel ring slips over the teeth.

The 1st picture is circa 2007 - I'm the masked man in the back doing the dirty work while dad gets the fun job of hauling the brush away. The next two are the start of the restoration shots! It has sat for the last 8 years, and I had to limp it out of the garage and into my trailer. After redoing the battery and starter cables, letting it sit for 48 hours with oil in the cylinder and turning the engine over with a breaker bar, the 'ol Kohler fired up on the 2nd crank with a shot of ether (first crank I forgot to choke and throttle - I was too excited - doh!). The wagon is original, and it has a replacement mowing deck. The original snowblower was sent to scrap unfortunately, but I sourced a 48" long-frame plow this summer which will be better here in PA since it's mostly slush anyway. I am slowly repainting pieces as they come off (I'd removed most of the sheet metal for diagnosis runs around the yard in the 2nd pic). Once things are mostly sorted with the hydro/trans, I'm planning on fresh Firestone bar & tri-rib rubber. I have so many fond memories mowing with this as a kid, and I am probably almost as (maybe more?) excited to get it back to being a workhorse as an adult and hopefully run it another 46 years! (I have a feeling it will outlast me)

Awesome! That thing has the looks of the best of the uglies(c125 and d series). Not being sarcastic, I love the black hoods and big d's. They are just plain awesome looking. I hate to say it, but I think "Coyote" my c125 I got from @oldredrider is my favorite horse so far. Nice project! Now back to Emory's c series I'm building in the garage!

If the series II that is low hrs and should be no prob with excellent maint. If series I with splash lube, operating on flat ground and keeping oil at full mark at all times is critical. No hills or side mowing with it!

A short walk around video. https://youtu.be/u8HpLrkUEOU

Fuel pump mounted. Battery box repaired. Drove it to the backyard for a few photos.

I don't know what it would take to make it work on a 314. I think it will only fit a vertical shaft .but others might have a way to modify it. This is the manual. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/files/file/2921-snowthrower-36in-1989-06-36sl01-200-tipl-snpdf/

Just chiming in to follow Dells and say!

Yellow plug with the two black wires are from the stator. Red one I believe is from the solenoid on the carb. Yellow plug goes to rrectifier/regulator. Briggs regulator number 797375.

Garry

You can right click on the CL pic and save it. Then repost it here. We do like our as much as helping a guy get a horse!

I can't find the part number for that either, BUT I believe it is GT 14 specific, to power the tiller only. The drive type may have changed during the 5 year production run for GT 14s. It has screw mounting points for a fan blade to cool the hydro.

I filled the hydraulic system to test it. Everything works but it is a little slower than I would like. I used a larger pump pulley than I had before so I will change that first and see if it helps. Also wired and installed the high / low light switch. I must say i like the option. This will complete the modifications. Thanks for following along. Jay

The first snow fall if it's 6 plus inches or more is the hardest to keep the gravel from being pushed by the plow. I keep the blade up about 2 inches with the hydrolics just so I don't hit the gravel. But after I get a hard base of snow the skids just ride on top and all is well. It does take a little to get the knack. Almost all the plowing I do is at a left or right angle So the skids will help with the tip not digging in also. My first tractor was a craftsman 19 hp and I plowed with it for 14 years that plow had skids but you'll always hit some gravel.

Looks like new, good find.

In answer to your wire gauge question I would replace each wire with the same gauge you took off. If that is too difficult Google 12 volt wire size required. There are some good charts available.

i believe i hear the clunk as the conrod lets go round the 5/6 second mark?

It's a wonder it even moved at all! I got the valves removed for inspection last night. The check valves were in good condition so I cleaned them and put them back in. The acceleration valves however, are a different story. Since my problem was with reverse, I checked the reverse valve first. The most obvious problem was the small spring was broken. Inspecting closer, I could see the spring seat was slightly bent, and the cone had worn a lip into the seat and didn't want to come out. Feeling a sense of satisfaction in finding what I thought was the problem, I figured I should go ahead and check the forward valve while I was at it just in case. Oh my! The piston didn't want to come out by itself, but fortunately the sleeve did. Once I got the sleeve out, I could see the piston was hung up on a lip it had worn into the sleeve. The springs were both a jumbled mess, with parts of them and the spring seat packed into the valve seat. I ran out of time to do any further inspections, but it's already aparent that most of these parts are pretty bad. I'm concerned what collateral damage might have been done elsewhere in the system. Going forward, I have three options at my immediate disposal that I could consider. Option 1 is I have a complete pump/motor unit from a C-160 Auto. I bought it from a guy who said he was using it and he heard a pop and then it wouldn't move in either direction. He took it apart to try to fix it, and taking it apart was as far as he got. I'm not sure of compatibility, but it is available to steal parts from, or see if I can find the original problem and swap in the whole pump/motor unit. Option 2 is a complete pump/motor/trans out of a C-120 Auto. It came out of a tractor I parted out and I know it works other than the tow valve being stuck, but I kind of was keeping it intact as a back-up for my main mow & snow C-160. Option 3 is to go with the Richie plan and install a 520H pump/motor/trans I got out of a tractor with a blown motor. It seemed to work OK before I parted that tractor out. Of course Option 4 could be to punt and go hunting for parts and/or a whole different pump/motor/trans. I've been toying with the idea of ditching the 15" wheels and swapping in 5-bolt hubs to use 12" rims with some Interco Interforce 27x10-12 tires, so shorter axle length might not be a deal breaker for me. Suggestions and opinions are welcome... Dave

My genny base is home made. No lift tube and I use a bolt and welded nut from the bottom to tension the belt

Check the AC voltage on the two white wires going to the regulator. Should be over 30 volts running. Getting to teh regulator on a D series is real fun...They are the most difficult to work on of any horses.

Ill be interested to see what it looks like. Hope you don't have to cut it too bad to achieve your final goal. Looks like a good stock tractor. Then again, who am I to be talking about not cutting up a tractor?

@Dozerman to

Update: I found the second peg-style footrest. Now I have a pair. So, you are thinking of modifying to the later style of flat footrest? I have a restored pair for sale. Let me know. Here's a pic!

One of those horses is the wrong color.

Give A-Z Tractor a call, they can fix you up. http://a-ztractor.com/

There are usually some that come up on ebay, but none showing right now. They're cast iron, so you don't want to try to fabricate. If they don't come up on ebay, they are fairly common at the WH show in June. Good luck. Jim

Thanks so much everyone. No doubt this is the right place for me!

Nope... there's someone out there who could match the paint and airbrush it in (of course with some patina added) and you wouldn't even known that those spots were there. That could get a little costly though. She earned those battle scars sometime in her life, show them off proudly .

Current # is 32 squeezed into that 10'x14' magic shed.