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hi men, since the fender pan and belt guard were removed for the seat support repair, i also removed the hood. special thanks to my bud mark for the fresh automotive paint and clear. new decals from terry, super guy! custom stainless steel exhaust stack from john at blue ribbon welding in chester ma. the stack is something i bought at home depot. (actaully its a shower safety grab bar) my bud harry fabbed the rake mount so it works with a clevis hitch. and thanks to my friend phil for the pics. enjoy mike in mass.

The secret to putting them on straight is to mist a little water onto the decal and the tractor. Then you can move them around until they are straight. Squeegee the water out and let them dry.

More details.

Well, Road Runner has been at the spa for the last two days. I pressure washed his frame, stripped and etch primed the seat pan and hood, removed the brake drum and drive pulley, replaced the bent spindle, and did a few other things. I plan on welding up the broken seat mount holes (pretty common failure I think) and a few rust holes in the tower tomorrow. I removed the brake pedal and plan on making the clutch pedal operate the clutch and brake to make it easier for Emory to operate. Well, worn out, time for bed!

I removed the drive tires on Alex the Farmer's ( My Son ) 310-8 today at work to show you all how many ours is on it ! Look at the wheels ! Still brand New, he got this from a Man who's Mother was suppose to be using it never used it, its a Very low hour tractor, check these wheels out & how shinny the paint still is, Im figuring its a 1988 model by rims, whats your thought ? BRF

Well I finally got my plow skids on my C160 snow pusher. I'm trying to get ready for winter. I have a gravel drive way and ever spring I have to clean up all the gravel in the side yard before I can mow the grass. So I ordered some skids and welded on a plate to support them. I had a tough time with my old mig welder with all the splatter from it. It doesn't look all that good but it will hold for sure. I have the blade about 1/2" high and still have threads on the skid for more lift if need be.

I like to use bed rails for things like that. Thin, but very strong. The steel is bent really tight on the inside corners [unlike an a standard angle iron] ,and you might get by placing it over or under the existing frame with just bolts or a plug weld. I also have used circular saw blades cut up with a mini grinder to reinforce things. Bed rails are easy to find as they are often thrown away, especially in college towns I get all i need when tenants move out, so talk to a landlord if you know one.

to the Looks like a 1988,89 520H. It looks well maintained, but is difficult to tell w/o seeing it in person. Ask for maint. records. Check bearing condition in blower ad mowig deck. How any hours on the clock. Is engine smoking or surging. $1200 is on the high side, but may not be bad for your area. Make sure you get the mule drive and belt for the deck and the lift rod and flag for the blower. BTW, posting a CL ad is not permitted. The mods may remove it.

It's an 18, and I will replace the stacks with a stock two into one as soon as I can. I got it bought for $700. The white lettering has to go. It appears to be a 1982 according what the original owner told the guy who restored it. New starter, new solenoid, new belts, all new deck pulley's, and no smoke. Runs like a top and mows well. The hydraulics work and the grader box was just icing on the cake. I am sure I will be asking lots of questions shortly. Thank you all for your advice and input. It appears to be an 18hp Briggs. No sticker under the seat anymore. Saw picture before it was restored, it is a work horse. It was a rusty work horse 😂

Oldarmy's 1977 B80 8 speed

This is my new to me in March 2017 1977 B80 8sp.. Work on the restoration was done by PO. It sports a 36" side discharge deck and has had an engine rebuild of the original 8hp Kohler. This Horse is still a working horse even though she looks purdy.

hi all, the typical 3,4,500 series wh seat support cracked and broke on my 312. i welded in thicker metal and added gussets. love my hobart mig! mike in mass.

Last one I did I just matched it up to the old one and cut it off, ground it smooth just like original

It's really no big deal Jeff... just wanted to illustrate here, that taking your time... utilizing a common sense approach, one can retain the "weathered" factory appearing paint... without doing a complete strip, then repaint job.

I'd soak the crank pin in muriatic acid and see if the aluminum residue comes off.

It's been a long time since I've undertaken a tractor project. Recently got married, moved, got a new job that keeps me busy so I haven't really had time. Now that I got the garage at our place cleaned out and ran electricity through it I'm ready to take on a project again! First one that I'm gonna take on is this 1045 I purchased a while back. It isn't perfect, but it's mostly there. Engine doesn't have enough parts on it to make it run, but it has compression so that's a start. I've been accumulating parts for it thanks to the big show and some members her so now I have enough to get it going. I'm excited to rear into it and see exactly how bad it will be! First thing I'm concerned with is possibly the hood. The previous owner put this bracket on so he could mount the hood while using the makeshift snowblower that was on it. He must have cut the normal attaching rod off. Now it looks like if I weld on a new rod, the hood will hit my muffler. Anyone have a 1045 that can give me some measurements of the hood to make sure mine is correct? Looking forward to this project! Mike

Here is a mid '90s 520H near you for $600. No blower, but it has the forward swept axle and reduction steering.

I see uncovered all the time, rusting away, even other Makes & Models ? Let alone a Classic Car in a field, makes no Dang Sense Bob

I would guess that's what the guys do Mike as the length of the oil dipper is the only difference. I would like to know how did the crank break? I might have an extra crank Mike, will have to check if its inch or 1 1/8" tho.

Humm...seems that I never posted images of the results of my refurbished hood repaint. Intention was to not make this look like an obvious repaint, but to make it blend into whats left of the factory paint on the hood sides... ultimately knocked down the high gloss with a pad of #0000 steel wool...I'm pretty happy with the final outcome. Anyways...a lot better than it appeared before.

sounds like it has a 10 pinion limited slip, they can click as the steel ring slips over the teeth.

The 1st picture is circa 2007 - I'm the masked man in the back doing the dirty work while dad gets the fun job of hauling the brush away. The next two are the start of the restoration shots! It has sat for the last 8 years, and I had to limp it out of the garage and into my trailer. After redoing the battery and starter cables, letting it sit for 48 hours with oil in the cylinder and turning the engine over with a breaker bar, the 'ol Kohler fired up on the 2nd crank with a shot of ether (first crank I forgot to choke and throttle - I was too excited - doh!). The wagon is original, and it has a replacement mowing deck. The original snowblower was sent to scrap unfortunately, but I sourced a 48" long-frame plow this summer which will be better here in PA since it's mostly slush anyway. I am slowly repainting pieces as they come off (I'd removed most of the sheet metal for diagnosis runs around the yard in the 2nd pic). Once things are mostly sorted with the hydro/trans, I'm planning on fresh Firestone bar & tri-rib rubber. I have so many fond memories mowing with this as a kid, and I am probably almost as (maybe more?) excited to get it back to being a workhorse as an adult and hopefully run it another 46 years! (I have a feeling it will outlast me)

Awesome! That thing has the looks of the best of the uglies(c125 and d series). Not being sarcastic, I love the black hoods and big d's. They are just plain awesome looking. I hate to say it, but I think "Coyote" my c125 I got from @oldredrider is my favorite horse so far. Nice project! Now back to Emory's c series I'm building in the garage!

If the series II that is low hrs and should be no prob with excellent maint. If series I with splash lube, operating on flat ground and keeping oil at full mark at all times is critical. No hills or side mowing with it!

A short walk around video. https://youtu.be/u8HpLrkUEOU

Fuel pump mounted. Battery box repaired. Drove it to the backyard for a few photos.

Haven't started it yet, need to buy some carb stuff and possibly a headgasket. I did have it running on Sunday cutting grass and it was actually running pretty good.

I don't mean to give you a hard time, but I'd be afraid to get up under that tractor to get the blades off. One little slip and you'd have five to six hundred pounds of Wheel Horse crashing down on whatever body part happened to be in the way at the time. It would certainly be safer, and I think easier, to just remove the deck completely and work on it separately.

Because you have a later 520-H with a swept axle, the dozer blade that you have will not be able to sector to the side. Wheel Horse made a kit that would allow the frame of the attachment to be extended so that the blade could be angled.

Keep your eyes open for another 701 you can dedicate to trailer towing. Make up a SR-62 or SR-64 speed reducer to slow the ground speed down. Click on the picture. Garry

I would like to know what causes that knock...I had a 314-8 that started doing that ( very faintly, but certainly was there ) when it was about 9 years old... I kept it full of oil and continued to use it ...when it was about 16 years old, the knock quit....never was an issue other than the fear of throwing a rod... can't help you with your question tho...

And the tallest stack award goes to..... ... But she is a nice looking machine, beautiful paintjob! I like how the stack ties to the original muffler, must be nice and quiet.

Well crud... I didn't need another project this weekend, but looking at how hard it was to spin the two shafts in this video, compared to *relative* ease on mine, I agree it's worth digging into it. I see now that perhaps my assumption that minimal shavings on the screen meant minimal internal damage is flawed. It looks like something could have broken inside the differential with minimal metal escaping. Thanks so much for the video @stevasaurus; I will keep you posted once I get a moment to dig in.

...when you've stumbled upon another keeper. Earlier this week, I noticed a newly listed C/L ad for this "barn find" 1056... price was right, so I picked up the phone, contacted the seller who was still at work. Made arrangements to meet up with him around 5pm later that afternoon, a take a peek at what he dragged home. Story goes, he's a John Deere guy...who picked this up in a recent package deal, & just wanted to pass it on to the "right guy". Original owners son, run on some hard times...(aka, going to jail ) & was selling off some of his deceased fathers collection to pay off some bills. Seller was told, his Dad was meticulous with his maintenance, which seemed plausible, considering it was covered in grease, & inside of the fuel tank looked brand new. Said he always fogged the engine before being put up for storage, so...other than a front tire off the rim, and the JD seat...seemed like a pretty good deal for $100. That said, I took the chance, shook the man's hand...and loaded the ol' girl up. After getting it home & unloading...I was hoping the story wasn't BS. Had to admit here, the old girl was looking pretty rough. The following day, I did my usual routine though...took it to work and it an hours bath with our heated pressure washer...followed by a good dose of compressed air. Then left it sit for a couple days to dry out, while I tackled the usual fuel system refresh, new plug, new oil & air filter...then tubed the flat front tire. Today was the day to try putting some fire in the hole, though it did initially try to pop off...I discovered it had a really weak spark. Once I cleaned to points, she fired right off...smoked like a chimney at first. Then, cleared up, and is running like a champ now...no runs, drips, or errors. Was so stoked, that I took the rest of the afternoon, to do a little aesthetic detailing, changed the gawd awful seat for another I had here "in stock". Took a couple picts here to show the progress so far, plan to to the rims, and probably add new rubber in the future. I think it turned out pretty good so far...let me know what you think.

Yup It does Bob, actually the crank is not scored just embedded with AL. If this were a trailer queen or a parade tractor I would be tempted to polish the journal and run it but a plow tractor.... I dunno?? I also think I know a guy who can turn cranks. Despite the puff of smoke Jack good video and I was hoping you got action of us all lined up!

Here is the video. It isn't anything spectacular and it is taken from across the field by my 11 year old. However, if you watch close when Ryan pulls out of the furrow headed to the left you see a puff of smoke-that was the death of that piston. Ryan can describe the experience from the first person point of view here if he would like. Beware, this video is shaky but it shows us all turning some earth except Dan, who's Raider had a weak battery and it wouldn't keep the coil driven motor running. Good to see that the K301 is already being fixed, especially since Ryan is planning to use this tractor for snow removal duties this winter. That "old man" is coming all too soon now.

I am looking for a grill, and I might just leave it a rat look. Time may change my mind, what's left of it.

I'm still a little conflicted about modifying it the way I plan to. It's definitely a restorable tractor, but it's condition also is what makes it a good candidate for what I want to to. For the most extensive changes, I plan to remove the original parts and make new ones to bolt on, so if my plan doesn't pan out I can put it back to stock if I need to. I started the process of inspecting the valve last night. It's amazing how Wheel Horse could make the GT14 bigger, but yet there seems like there is less room to get to parts to work on them than the smaller models. It's definitely a different animal than the rest!

1960 Suburban Model 400... & 1961 Suburban Model 401.

to Those footrest "pegs" were used on many models of that time period (early 60's). By the late 60's-70's Wheel Horse started using the longer wider footrests. What kind of Wheel Horse do you have? Look for an ID tag that should be mounted on steering tower that tag will have model number. or post a pic and someone on here will help you ID the tractor that you have. I looked around my barn but unfortunately found only a single footrest peg. I do have a pair of the longer style.

Cleveland Clinic is the best. I pray for the wisdom of the surgeons, and for your fast recovery. We'll all be thinking of you. Jim

I'm sittin here with tears in my eyes being thankful for the wonderful people of this forum. I thank you all for your good wishes and especially the prayers. You have made me stronger just knowing you are with me in spirit. Thank you all, Jim D.

Although I don't know you personally, I do feel I know you through this form.We serve a great GOD and through Jesus we can ask for his help in times like these. 953 Nut said it very well, that all things are possible through our savior Jesus Christ.Those who wait on the Lord shall renew their strength; They shall mount up with wings like eagles, They shall run and not be weary,They shall walk and not faint, Isaiah 40:31. God speed and a quick recovery. Bob

Amen agreed in Jesus name

That's a Christmas gift he will never forget.

Shouldn't the title of this thread be "Check out these Squonkin' lights"? they do look nice though!

I WIN!!!!

Should be the same as the 1055 or any other square hood. I think the rod is bolted to the frame.