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hello men, i needed a new brake band for my son-in-laws C-160. toro wants almost $80. these days. i contacted bob maynard via this site and ordered a half dozen from him. his price for just the lining is $20. each plus a small amount to cover shipping. the old brake band looked like a petrified alligator. i cleaned the band with my wire wheel. i applied bobs recommended adhesive.(permatex silicone) the new lining fits perfectly. i used some zip ties to hold it together while the adhesive sets up. great product and quick shipping. kudos to bob. mike in mass.

First off, Mods I'm not sure if this belongs here or in restorations or where. Please move to the correct spot if necessary. Emory wanted a deck for his latest lawn ranger and I had an old one laying around. Greased her up and put it on and the shaft bearings are so warm that it deafens you to ride it! Mows great, but loud! Saw this short frame deck on Craigslist. Went to look at it and figured I can switch the carrier and main drive over from the lawn ranger deck. It's in great condition, with a later repaint. Same guy also had a set of used 42" blades in an original wheel horse box with it. $125 for the deck and blades (a little high, but wait there's more!). He had one 23x8.5-12 Carlisle tru power tire $40 and a 16hp Briggs twin van guard engine. Wasn't looking for an engine, but it's now going to be part of Emory's Christmas. He started it and it ran great - love the sound of these engines! Made me an offer I couldn't turn down - $175! Well let's say I couldn't load it up fast enough. I may be wrong, but I think I did pretty good! Below is a pic of the haul. Proof there are still great guys out there on Craigslist and only about an hour from home - where horses are scarce as hens teeth!

noticed this for sale 9/26/17 on Flint MI CL I was thinking of doing something like this myself

Done with the hydraulics for now thanks to Lowell Scholljegerdes for the hoses they fit great. And he was great to deal with. The speed control was set back to factory specs 8lbs of pull either direction. New bearings and bushings for the speed control lever now when pedal is depressed the lever actual moves. Now on to the wiring. New wires new connectors refurbished switches and a new ignition switch let the fun times roll.

Ed has it all wrong! Stay home, save your gas and time, email me the address and phone number and I will come up to look at it for you!

Get there as soon as possible. Let the owner know you are on the way. Don't stop for lunch....you can eat on the way home.

Must be from too much chain pile

My thoughts as well Cleat.. careful reassembly & inspection of other gears is in order and does not appear anything else is damaged. Luckily the tractor went immovable as soon as it happened. this is what the gear is supposed to look like. Photo courtesy of @Shynon who also has a replacement on its way. Tom.

Buy Stock in a battery company.

(Batteries not included)

And take a really long electric cord... Nice looking for $250!

Just curious Eric, How many tractors are required to qualify as an arsenal? You don't have to count em, just a ball park figure....20, 30, 40, 50......

Great find Loader looks good. One suggestion, the hydraulic reservoir for the loader is the left hand support column. if it sat out for several years there could be corrosion inside from condensation and rust chunks . There is a suction line screen in the bottom hose connection to reservoir. Clean it and I would add a spin on hydro filter between the valve bank and the top of the reservoir.

I recently put these on my plow tractor. They fit the hole, but were loose, so I shimmed with fuel line. I like these because the lens area is small, and it all shines thru the headlight bezel. My tractor now has brighter headlights than my car. bought on that auction site at a reasonable price. sorry don't have night photo

Great turn out this year! Excellent weather as well. Enjoy the pictures!

I refuse to answer that on the grounds that I might incriminate myself eric j

I bought a 89 520-HC this summer that came with a 42" RD recycler mower deck. I did like said above and windrowed the leaves into row and then got the tractor out that I currently have the recyler on. I was surprised at the great job it did making all the leaves disappear. I'm glad to add this deck to my arsenal of equipment to combat my yard duties. I will also use it when I trim my hedge row to grind up the branches and leaves from that job. I usually use either a 48" SD deck or a 60' deck to mow the yard every week. eric j

There are a lot of attachments for that problem...I have always just windrowed them and then keep running thru them until they disappear...I think that is good for the ground too...I use side discharge also.....lots easier than handling them more than once too...

Looking at a road trip to IN to pick this up for $250.00, anything I need to know before I buy? It will be my first electric horse.

Hello, As many of you know, Terry has been doing this craft part time for quite awhile. I just feel compelled to post something on his behalf. I have purchased many sets of decals from Terry at Redo Your Horse and let me tell you he is the absolute best at what he does! I can be a very annoying individual and when I have had to call him with an issue, he greets me with nothing but professionalism. I have many horses that look absolutely great thanks to him and his knowledge of Wheel Horse/Toro Tractors. So I give praises to Terry at Redo Your Horse!

Was pleasantly surprised to find that Agri-Fab implements are at least mostly made in the US. Was shopping tow-behind lawn sweepers and found theirs to be made in the US, save for the catcher fabric. I compared with one other, and when I found a link to the owners manual, there was no hint of where it was made, but the text in the tab at the top of the browser window was Chinese! Props to Agri-Fab for keeping stuff sold here made here.

I had a 520 do that and the fuel line was resting against the oil filter getting hot. Just re-routed it a bit and all was well. Just re watched your video and it looks like you may just be sucking in air somewhere. Double check all connections and check the fuel line for a crack.

That should work, or perhaps some expanded steel.

That would be an Armada, not an arsenal!

Do not cut the wire! Simply disconnect the wire from the "trigger" and tape it up. Someone in the future may want to go back to "original". BTW, a good used trigger sells for around $100. Just sayin'.

Fine job! Some more motivation for myself! 👍

We'll never know for certain Jim but I'm thinking it wasn't the bearing or anything you did wrong. It may have had a hairline crack and just decided to commit suicide. Glad to hear that Tom got you fixed up.

WHX12 i’m Going with turf tires. Just have to save for them they are a little salty I hope to have them by the end of the year. I would really love to put ags on but unfortunately nobody makes them in 27x9.5-15 anymore. And the ones that came on the tractor are not usable

Very nice resto!

No there's not ..... just pressed in Dan, I'm beginning to wonder if that bearing didn't slide over toward the big end leaving the small end unsupported??? That would certainly do it. Will check that tonite and see if Tom's replacement has a gap between bearings for that to happen. I'm willing to bet it does. IPL shows no sleeve to keep it from happening. Who would figure that the bearing would walk in there?

You should be able to get a roll of the heavier twist link chain locally - that is the material for the cross links . The side chains are simple 2/0 pass link chain - should be available at any hardware store locally as well . The U-shaped connector links on the side are available from several tire chain suppliers - as well as the correct chain tool to open/close the links . Once you have the materials - it's not too hard to build a set from scratch but the cost is pretty close to a factory made set of chains . I'm surprised they aren't more readily available in the UK with the farming/garden industries there but maybe it's a lack of snow/ice like we can get here in the northern half of the country..? As far as the rubber style of chains - those would be cheaper to build . Just start hunting around for rubber belting - rock quarries and and stone processing plants use miles of the stuff in varying thicknesses and that type of rubber belts for conveyors is extremely well made . Around here if you ask any of the construction companies or workers the stuff can be had for free most times - I have some partial rolls here from worn out belts from rock conveyors used in asphalt (bitumen) plants and I work as a Union Laborer around this stuff all the time . I run steel chains on my tractors year-round since they are used on hills and doing heavy ground work - I hate getting stuck and even run mine mowing with no damage to the turf .... Sarge

Thanks guys for all the kind words. Your feedback and support keep us going. You meet the finest people on a Wheel Horse!! Sorry I do not get on the forum nearly as much as I should during the summer but we will soon be home for the winter and will stay caught up and start working on things that have been on the back burner. .

There was a dampener assembly put on by WH for a couple years to reduce the shock loading from going from forward to reverse to quickly. If you use your machine heavily may be something to get.

Yes , check the operation and adjustment of that parking brake as it is very important - if it doesn't release it will damage the pawl and possibly destroy the hydro pump/motor system . Also , download the manual for your year and go through all the adjustments for the direction control - the D's have a pretty complicated setup but when it's set correctly they perform quite well . Make sure all the pivot points and rollers that can wear are in good condition , clean and lubricated internally so they work as they should . Mine was so sticky and causing problems from previous owners using chain lube or something similar I had to disassemble the entire thing and rebuild it - works like new now . Make sure to get the correct drawings/instructions for your specific model and year - there are several variations of the D series motion controls that WH used over the lifespan of the D's . The system just acts as a hydraulic brake/stop . When the direction control in the pump is moved to neutral it closes off the oil flow to the hydraulic motor - the internal sealing of the pistons in that motor will stop the weight of the tractor the same as using a friction brake . If it wants to continue to roll - that is a bad sign that the motor and possibly the pump are badly worn or the pump's valves are leaking internally - both requiring a rebuild . There is a place that has some of the Sundstrand parts available ($$$$) so a rebuild is possible with some skills and time . There is a full manual available here for a free download that covers every detail on how to do this - just have to pay attention closely , keep everything super clean and use the manual as well as threads on this forum - it can be done . Look for posts from @daveoman1966 as he has posted some excellent info and pics on the internals of these units if you need to repair it and has some parts as well . Just a note - due to the weight of that tractor - never stop it suddenly if you can avoid it and never ram it full forward/reverse - you will damage either the differential or the pump system and could also shock load the hydraulics enough to strip the pump coupling between the engine and that hydro pump - that is a part that is no longer available and a proven weak point in this model's design . Sarge

Surprisingly enough, BWL had them remove a very large sycamore tree from my corner that was originally causing the sidewalk problem. Now I have a huge ground level stump that most likely will be there forever. Someone from the city was out looking at it, and I asked him about all the money spent on replacing perfectly good sidewalks to made them ADA compliant. The answer was that's all federal money they have no control over. Anyway, I no longer have to deal with the huge sycamore leaves anymore, so that is good as far as the modified blade edge, so far it works as intended, and I like it

recently upgraded lights on plow tractor. Rear lights I got at work, are Maxxis brand. The side mounted flashing lights came from that auction site

Craig I guess they only like the good stuff. Picky little buggers.

Now thats thinking outside the box !!!!!!It would have sold as a factory item !!!!!

Some say its a sine that we are going tohave a hard winter. Wayne

Always have said.....a D-200 is my mini Chevelle LS6 find. Truth is I cant imagine the massive amount of work to rehab this....much less a Chevelle. Good luck Bro!

Started another Big Project this morning. D200 With a Ark 550 Loader, got the loader off, needs all new lines, strip the paint and Paint, then start on the tractor, the starter is not engaging, I think its the starter drive, It sat out side for over 7 years, the loader has a good bucker and a wt. box. Will add more pics as I progress. I also have a center grader blade for this beast. This could be a all winter project. I have to get the loader frame work off yet. If someone wants the Tractor, I would take 300.00 cash just the way it sits, no loader. just the tractor.

Got to agree on the mower drive, haven't had the best results with Kevlar there ( one year and need replacement), but for drive belts to the transmission I have been very pleased with Kevlar.

Nice looking tractor GT 14’s are awesome, good luck with the rest of your restoration.

Leaf season started here in upstate NY too.Picked them up twice over the weekend.I use a brand X tractor and a Cyclone Rake.Does a great job.Gotta figure out a way to keep the mice away from the folded up canvas on my Cyclone Rake over the Summer.Has one moe chew hole in it every year.

We put on a big October fest at my cousins every year. Lots of family and friends, and now lots of kids. Tons of food, bobbing for apples all that stuff. And a hay ride. Started small 5 years ago when I had a simplicity broadmoor lawn tractor pulling a little dump cart. Kids loved it. This year the party got bigger so I had to as well. Planned on pulling my utility trailer (4'x7') made a couple quick benches for it. I was concerned if all the kids were at rear of trailer it might lift the rear of tractor so I put the cast iron in the wheels (painted them red too). Then I thought the toungue load might lift the front! So I made a weight bar for the front. Bolted to the frame, held 2 44lb weights. Well it all worked great. Pulled the trailer with kids and adults like it wasn't there. Every one had fun and nothing broke! put a pic of my tow vehicle in too

Backing up the hole with copper and then MIG welding is the way to go, The weld will not adhere to the copper and you can make several side by side beads to fill large holes.

@Vinylguy Terry has always been a great supporter of our little part of the Garden Tractor hobby. In the early days so many decals that he has available came from requests that people were making here! Sometimes a crappy old decal picture and a few measurements was all he had to go on. Terry and Lola are a real asset to Wheel Horse collectors nationwide.