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I have a 42 SD Deck to repair. Two of the pulleys released one did not. The center two pulley drive spindle was cut off and removed with great force. Cutting the spindle as well. I never made a pulley before so it was a good project. The critical spacing for the pulley was the lower one ( smaller) with the deck belt so it would line up with the other two pulleys. The top side was less critical as it just just to the PTO side alone. Dimensions were copied from the existing spindles and the original mangled pulley. The double small same size pulley on right is for the bagger unit. Curious to see how the now heavier Steel pulley runs on the deck, Comments and Questions Always Welcome.

Don't do that! Unless you want to rebuild your transmission soon it is important to NOT shift while in motion. I suppose the added traction of duals would be able to contribute to this, but the best advice I can offer is to add more front weight.

I understand that Lowell, @wheelhorseman has lots of these and will be glad to keep you supplied! https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/transmissions.html#!/3523-3rd-gear/p/84932562/category=23548039

I recently picked up a 1970 Charger 12 to bring back to life. The engine sounded real good and didn't smoke. The hydro didn't have any problems but the mower deck looked like it took a direct hit from a RPG. I had restored a 42" deck for my Raider so the deck was not a real problem. I also had a 1968 Charger 12 that the guy said I had to take when I picked up a 74 C-120 (I wanted the engine for a spare) Now I had a "donor" for the 1970Charger In the process of taking the 70 Charger down to the frame I found that a mouse had made a nest on the box for the motion lever and associated parts. I found nuts, a fair amount of bedding material and what was left of the mouse. As I started to put everything back together I needed a part from the 68. When I took the cover off - this is what I found. This guy worked REALLY hard building a nice warm place to spend the winter My Charger project despite a setback or two is coming along.....one piece at a time

70 incher then Red and Kevlar. I'll have to verify the WH number on mine and cross it to a length to see what size I am running. I would guess your pulleys are well worn in and burnished?? Looks like a 70 fits the IPL ...#81 I was going to mention that Dick but I want to make sure @wheelhorseman continues to make an honest living!

Weird but i think the fluid drain back / burping may have been it. Driveway is at a slant and rear was lower.. I lifted seat to pull dipstick only to see fluid near top so It seems like it was spilling out from there. I started it, raised deck, drove it over to other driveway, parked sidways and re-checked dipstick.. Now the oil is not visible inside the tube. Thanks a lot brothers!

The transmission oil fill (dipstick) tube is loose, it is threaded into case. Remove rear fender pan and put thread tape on oil fill tube.

Here's my rules for using Loctite - If you can use heat to break the bond and remove the fastener - use red If you can only use light heat to break the bond and remove the fastener - use blue If you can use no heat - use anti-seize . Sarge

Is there a need to fabricate these mufflers , or at least some sort of a market ? I may be open to a winter project if I can get caught up... Sarge

IMG_7187_2.3gp

Not aimed at any particular member, just a general statement on the topic of shift on the fly. How you spend you next $ 100 bill is up to you.

Looks like 'Nut is "geared" up for a little at RedRanger.........

Here’s what I found in the manual for my 701. It just says to make sure to use the clutch while moving and shifting.

sounds like fun... Now I gotta go see if I can get my 702 to do wheelies! Trade ya belts?? ...not up a hill heavens no...lets get the right tombstone!

It pops the front a foot off the ground just doing that. Heaven help you if you're pointed up hill at the time! Got to be the belt. Time for a tombstone.

Be VERY careful WHO you ask to sit on the front of the tractor....

You would become very popular with RJ and Suburban owners as well as lots of other brands from the '50s.

My 702 is almost identical to yours Red with 6/12 duals and I don't have problems unless I try to get stupid with it. My belt seems to have a good deal of slip tho and I'm thinking the belt is wearing and/or the clutch idler spring is too weak or some linkage adjustment is required as once in awhile it will throw the belt off the idler. I might try a size smaller belt too. Which leads me to my next question what brand/size of belt are you running? I have noticed the blue Huskys from TSC seem to really be grabby and all the tractors I have them on seem to be a little light in the front on takeoff! The one on my 702 is a WH belt 9291 I think but not sure on that number! Like I said it will climb stall walls when I get stupid!

Hey! That's my hand!

I didn't really get a chance to run my 854 with duals. I put the duals on another tractor that was a long frame and a diesel so had weight to keep the front down. Might need to adjust belt tension, shouldn't do that

You could retire...selling these things. Especially, once you list them on Ebay.

Yes both red go together. They have joined them at the ignition switch for convenience. If you look at the wiring diagram they show them joined just before the switch and after the fuse. Same thing. When wires cross each other in the illustrations they pass each other. When you see a black dot it means they are joined. Garry

Thanks I am self taught machinist. Books , You Tube and the Web are my sources. Picked up my South Bend 10K Lathe off Craigslist maybe 6 years ago. $300 bucks from a local Retired Locksmith. Trust me , i had had quite a few of those **** moments while using it. The new pulley is made from C1018 5 inch round Steel.

The 312 414 diagram Bob posted shows battery ignition which will not be correct with the ground wires on the side of the switch indicating you have magneto ignition. This one may be a closer guess. The tractor identification decal was most often on the rear fender pan below the left side of the seat. Just click on the photos below to get to the index pages. You can download the files from there. The 78346 model number you posted is for the mower deck. Garry

Mine are all gone as well. I have 2 good used ones and a new one but none are installed. When I disengage the PTO when running a deck or snow blower, they stop very quickly anyways.

Start a thread in other brands Jeff and I'm sure the fellas will be along to help out. Be ready to have model nos & pics of what you might be working on. Good luck.

That's why I wasn't sure which way to go. I don't like anything seized. Change of plans. No Loctite...apply anti-seize. Get it adjusted and locked, then add grease or anti-seize to the exterior threads to protect. Check periodically to confirm everything is the way it should be. I'm a snowmobiler, and that's how I put my sled suspension together. No Loctite, ant seize and check after every ride. Hasn't failed me in 30 years.

I'm not sure that I would use LocTite for this procedure. Those set screws are hardened and are a bear to get out if they are stuck. They are also very hard to drill out. Usually, when they break, if something is sticking out, you can turn them with your fingers. That will not happen with Loctite, and you will have to drop your trans to take care of the issue.

And here it is, proven to work now. Wells #PS-122 http://www.wellsve.com/showall_ds_oil.php that NLA Toro oil pressure switch for the Onan engine? Or the Onan part that’s $159.00? Scratch that. This piece here ^^^ I bought at my local O’Riellys for $5.73. Yes, it’s a three terminal switch, not two like the factor, but... it works. Terminals 1 and 3 are tied together and work when oil pressure is applied. They disconnect when there is no pressure. Terminal 2 grounds when there is no pressure and disconnects when there is pressure. You have to wire a new ground wire from either terminal 1 or 3 and find a suitable ground for that, and then connect the black wire from the - of your hour meter to the either terminal 1 or 3, whichever you didn’t already use. Terminal 2 gets connected to your idiot light for the “no pressure” indicator. I can tell you that it all works as it should. Idiot light works and goes off when running and now my hour meter functions too. Very happy!

To my eye, the bearing on the left is much higher quality as there are twice the needle rollers. Assuming it's the original WH and has limited wear and as Jim stated it "feels right", I'd stick with it.

Thanks for the pictures. I think that I will go with the tri ribs. I will look at the deestones and compare the ratings and looks. Thanks. Also, I cant post pictures because I do not have a phone or camera.

Guilty as charged fellas ...been known to do it once or thrice myself......more so now that I know Lowell has replacements. I know it harms the the teeth on the gear and @Racinbob or @stevasaurushas chewed (or will chew) my butt out for saying this but a skilled, practiced and experienced operator can shift on the fly with minimal gear damage by "feeling" the tranny and doing it smartly, load, grade and RPM considered. I realize this goes against the design of the transmission with not having syncros. Syncros are cone shaped thingys (where's the smiley with the sign when you need him) placed in between gears to make them mesh while rotating like our old Fords & Chevs & three's on the tree for gear shifts at any speeds. Syncros were designed to wear out by default hence the saying "grind me a pound" when yer hot rod buddy had worn out ones or missed a gear! Shifting on the fly with our transmissions is a well hashed out topic on this forum but always enjoyable. Sorry for going off topic Red and rambling. I would try a different belt or weights as Howard just agreed to. Possible a different spring to ease clutch let out allowing more slip.

I agree that it would only be appropriate under a no-load situation.

I do it to mine and any other stick tractors I've had. Not pulling anything or climbing a hill but just driving across the yard or whatever. Like manual says push clutch almost all the way down, bang the next gear and go.

This diagram better matches your wire colors looking at the last photo. G terminal black is correct for the ground S terminal tan is correct for the starter circuit R terminal pink in 3rd photo is correct (this feeds the headlamps) Red wire is wrong. B terminal should be red from the battery M terminal should be dark blue to the engine magneto - To be safe leave this wire off the switch until you get it running. If everything is OK hook it up. With the wire off the engine should not shut off with the key. Ground the blue wire to the chassis to shut it off or choke the carb. Blue wire in 3rd photo looks correct. A terminal should be white to the voltage regulator Hard to tell the pink from the red and tan from the white. Garry

Yes, mixed metals can corrode much more that if by alone. Aluminum and steel together does cause galvanic corrosion (google it for much more info), much like steel and copper do (which is why you have to have a proper junction in plumbing). There is actually a mild current flow that causes this. This is worse, when the metals are wet, such as wet caked grass on the spindles and deck.

Thanks! It seems like a nice machine

I'd try this diagram rather than the one you are using. But you have to know whether or not you have a battery ignition or magneto. This is for Battery Ignition.

You've created a real jewel there. Thanks for letting us watch.

onan back head eric j

I don't know if soaking would help. I am amazed how these housings are eaten away. Sometimes I think there must be some kind of electro/chemical action involved.

Picked up a nice 520-8 tonight! Better pictures to follow. Is going to be my lawn mowing machine.

I have both on different tractors and love them. Both make the tractors steer very easily. Some have said the tri ribs are hard on their yard but I have never had an issue with them. The Vreds have a beefier look to them.

Wow great stories! My intro to big trucks was in the early 80s. My dad would take me to the shop on weekends. Get to go for a ride in the IH "straight jobs". I rember being 4 or 5 asking him what that red button was on the gear shift? 30 years later nothing has 2 speed rears anymore. I like the trucks and tractors as much as him I think. The older stuff is awesome. Overbuilt, easy to work on and a ton of character. New fiberglass, skirted cabs and auto trannies may get better mileage but as one who has operated those trucks that's alll they have on the older stuff (maybe more comfortable too). But the new diesels suck with choked up emissions, the trucks are ugly (imo) all look the same, good luck working on one, I doubt they will be on the road in 30 years and the auto trans make these trucks dogs. Hit a grade with any load and watch the speed drop

Didn't the original muffler have internal threads ? If you want internal threads use this. That's why I thought welding two together and cut to length if it was longer than one coupler . Use a pipe nipple to position it and hold into place for welding .

How about using one or two steel pipe couples welded together and cut to length . Weld a cap on end , drill a bunch of holes in pipe . Grind the threads back on the muffler until the couple slides in so that the couplers threads are just sticking out . Weld the coupler and muffler together . Grind down weld and make it look pretty . Hope this makes sense .

The deck is supposed to be lower in the front. Others can tell you how to accomplish this. Sharpen the blades is my advice. Also check their length to make sure the tips are not worn back. Sharp blades make a world of difference on mine.Yes, that is only ten horsepower with a 42" deck and the grass is higher than the hood It has been tough to mow this year as the grass has so much rain that it is very soft and wants to lay down in front of the blades. I do not know if you have ever changed a transmission belt on the craftsman yet, but I would suggest that you look at some "taryl fixes all" videos on YouTube. I own a 26 Horspower Huskee with a 54" deck. Great to have for the big farmstead yard, but no way would I keep it if that meant losing a Horse. Operating costs including fuel and very expensive transmission belts make it a loser except for the time it saves. Working on it is a pain, but it mows 30% faster for twice the fuel consumed. Probably from an engineering standpoint, there is less power loss from a vertical engine driving the blades and also the transmission on the same axis, but a true tractor transmission like the Horses have to push snow and plow is just apples and oranges to the Sears stuff I have 48" and 42" decks for my Horses, and i am so cheap that I cut the big blades down to fit the 42' saving a bit of cash Anyway, it is your mowers and your decision, so do what is best for you. no idea how the lines are crossing out the script, so please ignore

Well guys, I got the wheel off and knock out the bearings. The bearings on my rims are the larger outside diameter 107124. The only ones I have been able to find online are selling for $75 or 80 EACH!! New/old Toro stock. Does anyone have a source for these that is reasonable? Or should I try and find some rims that use the 3/4x1.3/8 110513 bearing? Any suggestions greatly appreciated!

You are talking to the wrong crowd; we only have experience buying and coming up with reasons (excuses) for never parting with them.

I would just make sure you can "end load" the PTO bearing on that Vtwin diesel. The Yanmar engines that the single cylinders are cloned from cannot handle the end load that is applied to the crankshaft when the Wheelhorse PTO clutch is disengaged. Of coarse, you can go over to a electric PTO clutch and solve that problem. I do not know anybody that has taken the chance on that V twin diesel yet. The singles are hit and miss. Carroll Stream Motors out of Michigan seems to have about the best reputation in the USA for quality on thier clones. They also have the "Chonda" clone gas engines(Honda clones). The biggest thing is to first drain any crankcase oil out that is in them, then only run them a few min at idle after filling with oil, and change it again and flush the oil pickup screen if so equipted(some have this feature). Getting any remaining debris out of the crankcase is key to giving them a fighting chance. I had two of the Carroll Stream 4.5hp diesels(no longer imported due to EPA regs) and both ran fine after dealing with a few minor fuel leaks/loose fittings. One is in a RS members round hood somewhere in northern Indiana. I chose to go with a genuine(which I have less $$ in than a clone) as my horse at that time was a worker and source of income. Potentially throwing away a bit over 500 bucks on a clone that might or might not live more than a few hours while cutting grass was not an option. Mike