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For the third year now, I am ready and looking forwards to Fall. Thanks to Oldredrider for the idea and inspiration. What was a nightmare job turned into something I actually look forwards to and enjoy. The ease and efficiency of this idea cuts job in a fraction of the time it used to take and makes for great seat time. Not only another example of what is possible with these old machines but also of the talent , vision, and willingness of forum members to share their knowledge and experience.

I used the newly acquired 417 Auto with the 48" deck for mowing duty yesterday. I like the big tractor feel and sound of the twin Kohler. And that 48" deck makes a nice cut. But, now I remember why I converted the 520 to a dedicated snow chucker. Those twins throw too much heat to use as a mower in this 85 degree heat. May be a dedicated plow tractor is coming.

Hello, I picked up this rear blade and it just seemed to fit the tractor excellent! So I began the process of cleaning and painting. Next it's the decals, maybe the older style implement decals? I like this blade as it not only does angles, it is reversible too.......

Jim what is wrong with moons? It is a cheap dress up. Just my

Check the "thermostat " Ed!

We can deck it out real well!

That twin might be warm but the hub caps make it cool.

Now Mike, don't start that up. Hey, they came with the deal Jim. Ya think I should add some spinners?

Normally I'm not one for vanity over function. But I have always liked the black or stainless heat shield on the Wheelhorse mufflers. One of the many details that make these tractors standout. I found one used off a 5/20, about an inch longer than my 12hp muffler but that didn't bother me. I marked the mounting location for 4 of the 6 holes. Then I found the spots and tacked on 4 8-32 bolts. Next I put the shield on and cut the excess stud off. I left enough to put nuts with lock washers and brass acorn nuts on. I think it looks pretty good. Now I just need a 520 swept axle and reduction steering👍

Did I miss the 4th of July?

No curbs where I live Craig, but they may save the rattlesnakes and rabbits from getting sliced and diced.

Don't forget your curb feelers.

Find you "D" series moldboard they're 56" wide, Duke has/had a NOS one for sale in the classifieds, and yes I widened a 42" to 50" for my 520H ain't pretty but got the job done, Jeff.

Now remind me how you report inappropriate posts to the mods???!!!

They can put it out as early as they want. I refuse to buy till the last minute.

520 axle is direct bolt on...

thanks for the warm welcomes, the wife hopped on it for half the yard and loves it. its kinda fun to pop a wheely out the gate in high 3rd...I may or may not have warned her about that just for fun.

Moon protectors!

Those spare parts can move before the storm hits so put them in a giant bag marked with fluorescent tape!

Well got it to the house and started tinkering with it. Carb is mess but I was able to get it to start so I at least know it has potential. From what I can see this is a 3hp motor?? I have more pics so maybe y'all can give me more info

Really Ed... baby moonz

You have what is commonly referred to as a single stage short chute. Check for play in the chain. With use, the links can stretch. Look for the connector link and make sure it looks OK. The chain itself can be tightened by adjusting the idler sprocket. Make sure the auger and all the bearings are free and have no radial play. Check and tighten the set screws in the drive pulley and sprocket on the jack shaft. Check the belt tensioning spring. It should tighten the belt so you only have about 1/2" deflection with slight pressure. Check the chute rotator cable and replace if it is worn or twisted badly. I have successfully used heavy string trimmer line to replace cables. If all is OK, I would keep a spare belt and a spare chain connector link where you can find them when the blizzard arrives.

If it ran good before then I would check everything you touched and make sure you did not mess anything up. For the trigger to fail at the exact time you de-carboned it seems like a real coincidence.

I have the single side pulleys. 3 3/8 OD and 4 3/4 OD. Can you post a picture of the shaft. I have never seen a cast iron pulley wear out a steel shaft. If you are interested in the pulley, send me a PM.

I have shafts and spindle housings. I also have bearings, what I don't have is a pulley. I have another deck, an 05-42 MS02 which has the shaft with the hex nut as part of it just above the blade. This takes blades with a round hole. I'm sure everyone here knows this. I'm the rookie here. I really would like to find a pulley because with 2 decks I have some flexibility. One is set up for the TracVac and the other could be used for actually mowing lawn! What a concept.

Tough crowd here... but, I've got you bro. http://www.schillmania.com/projects/snowstorm/lights/

I don't get it, there aren't even any lights to blow up!

Here are some pics. It looks pretty close to 3 3/8 dia. The hole is round and so is the shaft. Bob

Sorry to hear about your dream not going so well. So many times our dreams are dashed by unexpected events, health or otherwise. I'm sure there is someone here who has a similar dream, and can help you get rid of those C-195's.

The engine is a new old stock Briggs 8 hp that's never had gas in it

Can you post a picture with the OD dimension. I may have one.

The 42" deck Lt or RT spindle pulley is # 5877 or 106846. If the center hole is round, then it is completely slopped out. There should bo no thrust washer at all. There may be a spacer, but it too would be double d configuration. I do not have any 5877 pulleys and they are hard to find. Better that you replae the entire spindle to escape the DD configuration... Newer model spindles will bolt right in, but will need to have non-DD blades tool.

I think a volt meter is better, An amp meter can't tell you anything about the battery condition and won't show voltage drop while cranking. I feel that the volt meter should have a line of it's own going directly to the battery side of the solenoid. Also, it should be fused to protect the wiring from an accidental short to ground.

I was in HD yesterday and the snowblowers are already on display.

The engine installed, although I will have to separate them again to apply loctite RC-680 on the pump shaft spline & driven coupling! Good looking out Paul.......

Not a dang thing Wrencher... I should have said it's always nice when an unexpected score come with caps! That is one nice 1257 your sitting on there as well! Seat is perfect! Good one Richard!

Thanks, all the info helps! Prices are all over the place so it's good to hear from those that have experience with these. I'll go with Richard's suggestion.

Thanks! I read that section in the manual before, but must've stopped paying attention when it said in the first sentence "The Dial-A-Height control (Fig. 14) is used to limit the downward travel of attachments other than mowers." However, looking at it again, it says to turn it all the way to the plastic thread cap for mowing, should have read the whole paragraph before! I tried yesterday to turn it all the way, but I've still got at least 1.5" of thread left to go until the thread cap, and I can absolutely not get it any farther by hand. I'm going to assume that either something is binding up the threads, or there's something further down preventing movement. Looking at the parts diagrams, I believe I now understand how the dial control works with the lever. Hoping to get back home this weekend, should be able to pick up the choke linkage from the post office and hopefully get the thing running, and have a closer look at the lever issue. Also checked the shifter boot yesterday, and will need to change that out when I can get the part, as well. As far as I can figure, to remove the lever there's just a jam nut and set screw to remove the lever, swap the boot, and reinstall? On the note of the transmission, just shifting it around while sitting I can get it into High/Low/R-1-2, but the lever doesn't want to go into third. It doesn't seem that the big metal spring on the console faceplate is getting in the way, and I watched the video on how the trannys work last night. Is it possible that the 3rd gear/pinion is just a little stuck, and maybe a good cleaning/flushing/fluid change might get it moving/shiftable again? Or am I likely to have to open the dang thing up and do some real work? Thanks for all of the advice and words so far, glad I found an active forum with so much knowledge on these machines! Just tinkering around with this one (never had a riding mower/tractor before), I can tell why people like them so much, though the youtube videos I watched about removing the mower deck took some liberties to make it look much easier/quicker than it really is... all the ones I saw don't mention anything about removing the PTO belt. They all just said "push this button, remove this pin, and slide it out!" ....not quite that simple, but it's still not bad at all. -Dan

I can not count how many times I've been asked about will this engine fit, or will this oil pan fit?? most times the first question I ask is what style block do you have ?? large or small base ?? BUT there is one exception to that rule I will cover that later. I'm writing this post to help clear up that question, first this only applies to 10, 12, 14 and 16 HP Kohlers, they used two style blocks commonly referred to as large or small base blocks. We will start with the large base or eared block used on most WH tractors from 1967 to the last Magnum about 1987, these blocks use the bigger oil pan, and the pan bolts on from the top side through ears on the block, this style oil pan is the one that bolts directly to the frame, the two bolts on the right side that hold it to the frame go from under the frame into blind bolt holes in the bottom of the pan, the pan will hang over the frame some on that side, with the mounting ears on the pan NOT being used. This is a large base block and pan, note how long the pan is and where it bolts to the block Here you can see where the pan hangs over the frame, at this point under the frame is where the bolts go from the bottom in to the blind holes in the pan. The holes outlined in red are the blind holes used to bolt the pan to the frame from the bottom, the holes in green are the ones that hang over the frame. Here you can see the bolts that hold the pan on, going through the ears in the block. That pretty much covers the large base blocks. Next is the small base block used on the shaker plate engines, and some of the mid 60's 10hp engines in WH tractors, this style block is also common in Cub tractors, and others but we are talking WH here. The small base block the oil pan bolts on from the bottom of the engine, it does not have ears on the block, the pan is closer to a square in shape than the large base block, here is a pic of a small base block and oil pan. There are many many styles of oil pans to fit the small base block, other brands of tractors use pans in all shapes, and depths so when swapping this style pan you have to watch how long the oil dipper is on the bottom of the connecting rod, it can be cut to fit a shallower pan, WH used two basic pans on this engine a very shallow pan on the early 10 hp and a mid depth on the shaker plate engines. This pan is a shaker style pan used in the late 70's early 80's on the shaker engines This pan is the flat bottom style used on the 1045, 1055, 1075 and 1046 also used on many Cub engines and other brands, the dipper on the connecting rod is very short on the engines that use this pan. This is a deep pan on a Cub engine, I do beleive it uses the same dipper as the large base blocks with the big oil pan. Here is a shot of both styles together, to give you a idea of how the blocks look side by side, note on the large base block the cut outs at each end, I will be talking about them and the 4 holes you see where a small base oil pan could fit with a few mods. Here are the pan gaskets side by side and over top of each other. Ok now we will talk about how a small base oil pan can be used on a large base block, note the red circles they point out the cut outs in the block where the small oil pan will not seal, this area can be filled up with JB weld or other compound that will stick to metal and take the heat, then note the green circles they show the holes that will need to be tapped to bolt the pan to, so far all blocks I have seen have the holes but are not tapped, with these mods a small pan can be used on this block, also if needed you could cut most of the ears off the block. Now some blocks (very few) are set up from the factory to except both style oil pans, most common found on JD tractors as they use a shaker mount set up that uses the ears on the block to mount it but still uses a small oil pan, here is a duel pan style block note is does not have the cut outs in the block like a normal large base block does. Just remember to check the dipper on the rod, to long and it will hit the pan, to short and it may not splash lube properly. I hope this helps clear up a few questions about block styles and how they differ

My grandfathers dealership was Gartner's machine in Gaithersburg md closed in 80's. Was a new holland baler dealership that sold partner chainsaws, wheel horse and jacobsen

Condition is everything. It looks like it has been painted nicely and has the correct hub caps which is great. If the engine and transmission have been serviced properly it should give you lots of good service. Not too likely a person would do a nice job like that if the mechanical systems had a problem.

I've seen the Triplex gauges in some of the industrial equipment at work - seem well built and robust enough but don't remember if any had the fogging issue - which is really common . I prefer SW's quality , they are one of the true legacy manufacturers left in this country and refuse to go the cheap labor route and destroy their name . Equus has always been hit and miss - I've had some in the past that lasted a very long time despite their price . You can see now why old vintage original gauges are worth so much and I don't blame folks asking a premium for them in excellent condition - far better than most of what you can buy today . Perhaps we need to start looking more at the vintage boat parts market - maybe we'll have better luck overall . I'm going to do some more hunting/research... Sarge

Alright so I orderd the one 6bg6ga mentioned. Should be here sometime next week. I grabbed a handful of connectors from work and picked up some wire. I was going to start it this weekend but im not going to have the time. I will post a progress update next week. Thanks again for everyone's help.

It's not actually attached as didn't have the heart to drill holes in any of my tractor hoods.

Almost done new drive belt on the way

Take a look at this bulletin. Would it work? Marv Engine cooling screen.pdf