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I recently picked up a nice single stage tall chute blower for my 520 and decided to put an electric chute motor and an actuator on it. After researching different threads here on the forum I decided to use a 4" actuator (ebay) and an electric seat motor (Amazon). I cut the seat motor shaft then turned it down on the lathe to fit a coupler that i picked up from McMaster Carr, then ground a flat spot on the shaft for the set screw. I also made a new shaft for the worm gear so I could keep the original shaft in case I need to use the hand crank again and I added a shaft support to the mounting bracket. I made a bracket for the switch box and used a couple of momentary rocker switches to control the motors and used a couple of Weather Pac connectors in the wiring harness so I can unplug the wires under the hood when I take the blower off. Right now I'm not going to put any limit switches on the rotation motor, I'll add them later if I need them. I still have a few things to finish up, I'm going to cut a piece of inner tube and zip tie it over the chute motor to help weatherproof it and I need to insulate some wiring from the muffler heat etc but overall I'm happy with the way it turned out..... And my wife finally got tired of listening to me complain that I needed a welder and bought me one for my birthday.

551 has the two piece transmission, and @Racinbob types faster than me!

Not in my world.... the auctioneer works for the seller, the seller pays the fee. If an auctioneer is going to charge me to spend my money with him... he gets none of it.

I don't know where he gets it from. He has 2 suburbans that run, 2 lawn rangers that run, and another lawn ranger project waiting. This is a lot better addiction than a lot of the stuff our kids could get hook on. Heck, who knows, he may be the next AMC Rules. Wait, I've got to put a stop to this right now!

Little steps......Fabbed up a new transmission tunnel cover and dash plate. Can't let Aldon have all the fabrication fun.

Back in the late 60s and early 70s there were at least 300 some different brands of snowmobiles, most by their own manufacturers. Every major garden tractor brand of the time jumped in the market too, including our beloved Wheel Horse... who took the easy route and just bought out another company. (Sno-Flite). Truthfully there aren't too many conversations about the snowmobiles to have rated their own topic, but they're out there. If you search the word snowmobile you'll find some topics with pictures. Several members here have them. They're mostly just a novelty to most collectors. Not overly desired in the vintage sled world, and even less to most garden tractor collectors.

Well its not a Wheel Horse but in the ballpark as far as trucks go. Im down in Sevierville, TN on vacation and found this while doing my coffee and craigslist.

I know this is not Wheel Horse but could not pass it up. I scored a Sears made by Roper. As far as I can find out only made in 1981 or 1982. What makes this one special to me is it also has a Sears loader made by Kwik Way.

It definitely got me moving yesterday. In order to assure I did not miss out I drove almost 8 hours round trip last night and did pick up in dark of night in springfield MA. i have another patina 551 which I will make this one whole with. Pretty stoked about the condition of hood, steering wheel, the tires and the serial number as mentioned. Already started the process...

Oops, I was in the edit mode to add that about the 2 piece so technically you beat me.

With that hoodstand, the 2 piece transmission (401 still used the 3 piece) and the 5hp definitely a 551. The 401 has the same hoodstand as a 400. The 551 had the battery in front of the motor like that one.

It's a 1960 Suburban with a replacement engine. Pretty difficult to tell whether a 400 or 550 unless you can see the dash area... if it has no hole, or a hole with a knockout plug to the right of the steering column it was for sure a 400.... beyond that without the original engine pretty difficult to tell. And that bracket hanging on the front belongs to a snow/dozer blade... might ask if that's lying around. Should have a foot pedal for the right side and a lift link for the left.

The your grandfather gave you is a 1961 model 551. The 401 would have the model 5010 transmission (ALA a three piece) The transmission you have is a 5007 which was the first of the cast iron two piece transaxle cases. The original engine would have been a 5.5 HP Lauson model H55D. Unless you are obsessed with originality the Kohler K91 will be fine. Hope you will share the project with us. Thanks for all the

Gents, i picked this up yesterday. Serial 46574 ive searched and can't seem to find a chart or method for determining what this model is specifically by serial number. it looks identical to my 551's but seller listed as 401. Engine is a Tecumsah 5.5hp or at least it appears so to my uneducated eyes. can it be locked in by serial? Perhaps it is a repower or actually started life as a 501/551.

Almost done new drive belt on the way

Try Clints Restoration, He's in Floresville, south of San Antonio. Cliint Nohl Ph: 830-391-1678.

Q: What do ye call a pirate with two eyes and two legs?A: Rookie

What's a pirate take for indigestion?? Yo, Ho, Ho and a bottle of Tums.

If your budget is $ 500 you will probably be able to have the engine or transaxle done professionally, but not much more.

We will just call it a tie, the important thing is that @Aldon has come one step closer to Wheel Horse Nirvana.

Nice to see him making an honest living getting all these tractors not to mention a good source for parts for the likes of us!

Lincoln knows how to load a trailer, that's for sure!

Nice work Ritchie! i appreciate the company😀

We did good. A little tree damage and some water but I live on a sandy ridge so it was sucked up by the time the sun came up. Still picking up tree debris and burning it. No building damage.

Utility power restored by Duke Energy a couple of hours ago. Enjoying central air conditioning and water flowing out of taps once again. Nine days on the little Yamaha generator. After the last batch of hurricanes in 2004 with almost two weeks on an Onan twin, I heard the drone of that engine in my sleep for days afterward. The Yamaha is an inverter type that varies the engine RPM to the load. That made the generator easier to live with. It sipped fuel compared to a constant speed gen set. It used 5 gallons a day with a full size fridge and small window shaker AC unit 24/7. Only .6 quart of oil in the crankcase had me nervous enough to change the oil every 72 hours. 216 hours use this go around. I would estimate at least 700 more left in it. It's a keeper. Like 2004, broadband internet and cable TV worked fine if you thought of running an cord to the cable and WiFi box.

Just guessing but....Unless the 3 wheeler is something really special, even an RJ35 with or RJ25 clone is a probably good trade.

This diagram is for my c160 after I rewired it. The green wire is where the amp gage was. And the volt gage is tied into the light circuit just as rmaynard said.

All operating voltage normally passes through the ammeter, so if you are removing it, just connect both of those wires (the one from the solenoid/battery and the one from the ignition switch) together. They should be red and light green. Then, if it was mine, I'd take a wire from the accessory terminal on the ignition switch (the same one the lights are connected to) and connect it to the plus side of the volt meter, and connect the negative side to ground. That way, the volt meter will only be drawing voltage when the key is on, keeping the battery from draining when the tractor is off. Also, a good rule of thumb for the models like yours with a cradle-mounted engine is to check the ground wire that connects the cradle to the frame.

First most obvious thing to tell other than the engine is whether or not it has the hole in the hood for the gastank as it should not have a hole. Second it shouldn't have a kill switch on hood unless someone has added it....other than the engine, hole in hood, and kill switch they are practically the same tractor as a RJ35. The engine if it's original should be a Briggs Model 8 with a cast iron block, air vein governor not mechanical and should have a recoil starter instead of rope pull only. I own a original 1955 RJ25 so will help you all I can. Good luck!

Seem like that truckster comes up for sale every couple of years, nice for sure. here are a couple more.

Q: Why is pirating so addictive?A: They say once ye lose yer first hand, ye get hooked!

I have plans to bring 5 Horses. Gonna clean out the barn.😀 Jason even has a Horse to add to the line up.

I am going for sure!! I would really like to bring them all! I need to figure out trailer situations but ill be there with all my regardless! I should have 5 to show.

I'm planning on it Dan! I'm hoping to bring--GhostRider and Blackbeard. Dad will be home and he is planning to bring the 875 and Clyde. I think it would be great to have a strong showing of machines there. Anyone else ???

Ahoy! Jason. Havin' jus' returned from th' coast o' North Carolina via a wee planet called Tatooine, ye can call me Arr2-D2

That is how it used to be and why I won't play their new game.

The hydraulic system is probably capable of lifting enough weight to get you in trouble if that is your choice.

If your not worried about cosmetics and are unsure of your know how, then I would get an estimate for a mechanical resto. Then you will have number to decide if it is worth it to you. Most times even a free tractor can go over value during a resto.

Thanks gentlemen! It all fits my master plan to a tee then! Sweet!

I thought you were asking about a "C", not a "D". Everything on the "D" is heavier. I guess with a front end loader as counter weight you could lift more than 300 pounds at the rear of a "C". but sooner or later you would find the weakest link and have to repair it. I have a front end loader on my GT-14 and carry 200 pounds of rear weight in a metal box on the three point for added traction and easier steering. Also, the tires are loaded and I have 80 pounds of weights on each rear wheel.

copied Jeff's @fireman pics out of photobucket.

I've had the same issue with my hydro tractors on the steep ditches here when mowing - especially in the spring/fall when it's wet . The little Deere lawn tractor won't climb those hills at all when the ground is less than bone dry - it just spins the turf tires despite having a 50lb hunk of iron bolted to the rear frame . Never had an issue with the Horses that I run the loaded tires/weghts/ags/chains and they do not tear up the lawn like you'd expect . At 145lbs each in those rear Carlisle tires - it will also climb snow piles to the point of trying to flip over backwards . I still need to fix the rear frame plate (replace it) and rebuild it's engine as it's seriously tired but just refuses to die - the old girl deserves the upgrades with all the service it's put in over the 50 year lifespan so far . Should last another 30+yrs easily... Sarge

@rj35hunter has some great RJs and is the man when it comes to the identification.

The hydraulics will probably lift a bunch more than the rear end will handle. I'm with Steve on this, 300 pounds for short duration would sound like a safe limit, probably won't steer too well with the front tires off the ground otherwise.

By the looks of Lincoln's (A-Z) newly posted pic this morning, he hauled lot of iron and steel back to PA! WOW!

Looking good Richie. Nice work.

Never weighed them but cat. 0 is usually around 300 but may be more.

Man, that Emory... sure is amassing a nice collection.

patiently watching... great thread !!

10W30 motor oil and a NAPA 1410 filter will do the trick.