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My new find! 1974 Wheel Horse C100 with Original Paint bought from the Original Owner!

If your into family events alittle of everything for everyone from a large sand box for the kids to your misses candle burners to good food to music and a tractor parade. hope it grows bigger they had all kinda of different tractors. Got to spend some time hang out with @Achto always a good time, i am sure he has some pictures to show.

This was a fun little show, & it was great to hang out with @Rp.wh and his boys. Rare tractors can even be found at a small show like this. I know that a lot of us rib on John Deere's but I still appreciate rare ones. This is an experimental model M, most of the 23 built were destroyed after testing. This one is a restored survivor. Some day I would like to own one of these Roof Palomino's. While the DeVere Lock was built in Racine WI, they are not found too often in our area. A Bantam tractor is also on my wish list. I was able to take this model 8000 for a joy ride. Very cool little tractor. I have never seen or heard of the Pigeon scooter. An old water pump used by fire fighters at one time. A big high light of the show for me was spending some time on this Port Huron Steam engine. An operators view while running the thresher. Had a great time & enjoyed hanging out with some friends.

I've been mowing most of the season with this rig and it's been a great little tractor. New belts, spark plugs, oil/filter, air filter, led headlights and assorted deck parts were installed. I cleaned all the debris that was packed around the cylinder heads. About a month ago I found a 244-H parts rig and it had the right size deck to replace my ratty one. A little bit newer model deck, but it fits. Had to weld up a few cracks on it, a little fresh paint and transfer the new parts from the old deck to the new one. I just tested it out and it's perfect. Could not be happier. I'll be finishing out the season with it in its current shape. Next spring I'll be getting new tires and a new pto clutch for it

Some of you may remember me mentioning a very special WH not too long after I joined RedSquare that was purchased brand new by an elderly friend of mine who was the one who got me to looking for my first WH. Well after several months of waiting I was finally able to go pick it up today. Ray couldn't remember the model, only that it was a WH that he bought new sometime in the 70s with a tiller...turned out to be a C-141. She should start and run with a little patience and tinkering, but will be awhile before she's up and working again...needs 4 new tires, new gas tank, and I have a feeling the 8 speed is shot (no oil, rust flakes on the dipstick, & won't shift between lo/hi or into 2nd/3rd) still I'm very excited to finally have this one home to my stable. Now I will quit with the senseless rambling and get on to what y'all really want...

Uh...oh! Here we go!

Brand new here. Don't know if this is the correct place in this forum for this question. Recently bought a large piece of property out in the country. Found a refurbished WH on craigslist for a good price w/the attachments I was looking for. My first big problem is that I'm pretty sure the prior owner painted over the model & serial # sticker when he was refurbishing it. I tried a bit of paint thinner, but that ate away everything that was written on the sticker. This is the first lawn tractor/riding mower I've ever owned, so please forgive my ignorance. I don't know what info is needed to help me come close to what year it is. It has a 10hp Kohler engine. The gas tank is under the seat. A mule drive. I has a rear discharge deck, but I'm not sure this is original. When you're sitting on the tractor, the sticker I mentioned is on the left side of the frame under the flywheel to the motor. On the front of the left axle there's a very small metal plate (1/2" x 3/4") it's painted over, but I'm pretty sure it has "901v" stamped onto it. I will try to get it out of my dark basement & get some pix up when it stops raining.

I was a bit reluctant to go to the auction as I really don't NEED any more tractors and parts, but the wife insisted (gotta love her!). Only about 25 mins away so why not change it? As Jeff said, prices were all over the map, especially during the 1st half of the auction. Toward the end prices dropped dramatically and my buddy got a C-120 auto and a no name 12 auto for $150. Both had wheel weights and had not been molested at all. Pretty good deal I think. We'll see what he ends up with once we get them fired up. It was good to see some friends too like @dells68 and Emory who left very happy with there new aquistions. Oh yeah, I didn't get anything!

You can make your own with threaded rod and ends from McMaster Carr.

I was only an hour away and it got me out of the house and away from other stresses of this month.

BBBBWWWAAAHHHHAAAAHHHAAAA!!!!!!

http://machineryequipmentonline.com/hvac-machinery/hydraulic-turbinescavitation-in-hydraulic-turbines/ https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Pump+Cavitation&FORM=RESTAB Just a sample of what can happen when a pump or turbine is operated outside it's design flow and/or pressure range.

I agree with Jeff - prices were everywhere. Some really good deals and some really high prices. A-Z was there and picked up several to take back to PA. I scored a roached out blackhood that has a fixable deck, good seat and tires for $50. I got a nice 857 at a reasonable price and Emory got a lawn ranger that I paid way too much for, but he was using his money from selling some toys and I chipped in about the same amount. I couldn't go home with two and not get it for him. I was a little disappointed with the tractors because there was a lot of rust with some good tractors sprinkled in. We've stopped long enough to eat at Red Robin in Roanoke on our way home. Really enjoyed talking with @oldredrider and his friend Mike. Really great guys! Here are a few pics of the sale and our buys.

Showed up around 8:15...sad to see one upside down on the trash pile...more to come,Jeff.

Today to stay out of the house and get a little seat time, I hitched up dad's rear grader blade to work on the B.I.L.'s gravel/dirt driveway,(I did bid on a Brinley made rear grader at the auction in Troy yesterday and was out $), @AMC RULES I have built in a "tilt" function for pulling side ditches (I'm sure your work rig is more fun with multi-function hydraulic blade), anyways a few still shots of it in action, also had the front weights on to keep it from doing wheelies dragging it up hill, enjoy, Jeff.

This chain hook up is all wrong. It should link as in this schematic. Top of chain s/b on bellcrank (rock shaft).

Ethanol (made from corn) is highly corrosive - on carb equipped small engines it can literally eat the body and internal parts of the carb , rot the fuel lines , destroy the pump valves/body and leaves a nice white ash in the combustion chamber . No stock Kohler is over 9:1 that I know of , so literally 89 octane is overkill . I do run 91 non-ethanol Phillips 66 - never had an issue using that fuel and a little Sta-bil , have stored it over a year no problems . I've seen too many pistons with the tell tale signs of ingesting metal objects and it's common to see previous owners replace a cylinder head since it's so simple versus replacing the piston . Choke and throttle plate screws should always be staked properly - air cleaner screws should use proper lock washers or internal tooth locking washers so they can't rattle out . I've had it happen to 2 of my own engines from not replacing air cleaner screws when the locking washers are worn and flat - my own fault and I know better - lesson learned . Sea Foam and some other products like it can help , if used in proper mix levels - exceed it too much and you can buy a new piston and valves . Honestly , none of that stuff is really necessary if you use good fuel to start with - I refuse to use corn ethanol in anything - even my 2014 Hemi that is designed to run it . Running ethanol in any older small engine will shorten it's potential life span - ask any reputable engine builder as they see the damage it causes every day . The Gov't and the manufacturers don't care - they build the engines well enough to exceed the warranty , after then it's your problem and it applies to any engine . The reasons for adding the stuff to fuel for the mass market can be argued to death , but in my opinion there is no good argument for it and the damage it causes over time costs us money . Now there is talk of pushing it to 15% or higher , that's pretty ignorant to me and unless the Public holds them accountable for the damage we're in for an expensive ride . Ask anyone that has ran the E85 for any length of time and see if they will admit to how many hours the vehicle spent in the shop...lol . I have seen the piston damage mentioned earlier with no tell tale marks of a metal object being ingested into an engine . Two of my most trusted builders believe it is carbon deposits that have become hardened enough that , when they break loose from the valves/head they can cause that damage . I'm not totally sure , it could be the hotter side doing damage to the piston surface , carbon or some other unexplained issue but it does happen - odd as it is the only cure is to replace the piston . You'd have to know the full history first hand of the engine to have any sort of true idea of what caused it - such as how long was it ran before being de-carboned ...ect ?? Sarge

Hey gang. Got pwr and cable back THUR. Sorry, should have checked in sooner. We are very lucky here. The Beast lives in a garage at 11FT, my old trailer is at 25FT, but surrounded by 65FT tall FL Long Leaf Pines. NO DAMAGE, NO FLOODING!!! With packing up stuff and getting out, then getting back in, my ticker is workin pretty hard. Nitro patches on top of each other!! LOL Things starting to get back to normal here, I know we have some other guys further south, and a few in Houston as well. Hope they all were at least as fortunate as us!!

Don't think I'd fill it though. just a quart, or so...and leave it sit to cook in that hot Oklahoma sun for a few days. Lift the front up, drain it...then, do it again. Might try running it in the only gear you've got, before you try finding any more gears. Use a light touch, don't force the shifter, and trash your forks.

You might be surprised... flill & flush the trans with diesel. Just might cure what's ailing it.

Glad you and Emory had another father/son adventure, he got a great Ranger. I had done some on-line bidding but don't guess I was high bidder on any of them. C-195, RJ-35 and 1054; got any idea what they went for? If I had won one or more I wouldn't have minded the 14 hour round trip, but just couldn't bring myself to drive up and spend a couple of nights in a motel. Hope we hear from others too, thanks for your update.

Thank you guys I learned a lot on putting on my attachments on now

I LOVE these threads

I'm not saying it's not but it doesn't look like anything I've seen that was

Thing does nice work Jeff.

you'd be surprised what those 200 series tractors are capable of!

If that is a picture of your tractor , it is a 310-8 with I think a 42 inch rear discharge deck. Hydro means an automatic transmission. Look on the motor and see if there is a tag with a serial number . That may help with identifying the year . Hope this helps.

Lots of interesting stuff there, thanks for sharing.

Looks likes you've got an earlier tiller pre 300- 400 series, as Garry points out that's when the belt and the front idler spring position changed. First there are two mounting holes, front and back, on the bracket that the large pulley bolts to, there seems to be some question as to which hole to use with the 300-400 series. I have a 1998 416-8, and the 1998 36" tiller MN 79370 that came with it. The operator's manual that came with it states front hole for 400 & 500 series twin cylinder tractors and all single cylinder tractors. Rear hole for C & GT twin cylinder tractors. The belt should be the 110265 (1/2" x 141") the front hole is approximately 1 3/4" forward of the back hole, there's your 2" difference. Also the tension spring hooks to the hole in the frame on the 300 & 400 series in front of the idler bracket. Go to the manual section here and find an operator's manual for the 36" tiller made after 1985. It will show you how to install the front idler bracket on your 300 series. Chris

I also agree with filling up with diesel, it will soak into all the "stuck" internal parts. Then tip up and let drain for awhile out in the hot sun. Put oil back in it and if you have the engine running at that point, see if she will move in whatever gear you can put it in(engine in idle). Things might free up with some gentle working, but like said, do not "force" anything. Glad to she her home and cannot wait to see your progress bringing her back to life again. Mike the Aspie

Hopefully, you'll be ready to make a pull at Stevebo's... I'll document your progress there Kyle.

It's amazing how good those ugly old D's can look with a new coat of paint - but it's 3 times more work than any other models they made with maybe the exception of the 520s . Getting a good gauge without buying a really expensive Stewart Warner is tough - been there , done that . Sarge

I had a B100A once that had bolts in these holes that were "J" shaped. They hooked under the angle frame and ran up through the holes with self locking nuts.

Glad to hear it Bob. Take care of that ticker!

I used Lucas SIN 80/90 Draws less moisture. Plus we stock it at our dealership.

Really? Who knew?

I believe the Jim Dandy went for $500 non running, most of the others(bigger ones) went for more, the big Simplicity went for $750, like I said before all over map price wise.

First I'd like to thank everyone for being so helpful and offering expert advise to get this tractor on the track. Last week we pulled at the Hebron Fair. After a few tries and smoked a belt we ended up with a 90ish foot pull. This week is the Berlin Fair. My son is just loving this. I am going to have to find a tractor for myself...lol

That is the best looking wheel horse I've ever seen. But it has to have a horn Dad.

Sorry Searcher but Richard is correct. They even sold different sized thermostat replacment orifices to get the maximum power out of an engine without cooking it. And I have seen engines overheat because there was no stat or orifice in place

I know what a thermostat is for! People would remove the thermostat with the intention of gaining increased coolant flow and enhanced cooling. This was a fallacy because the flow rate would exceed laminar rates and become turbulent. What was needed to allow proper coolant flow was a restricting orifice in place of the thermostat.

The piston is the hammer, and the head is the anvil. Bang, bang!!!

So far prices all over the map $10 John Deeres to $2100 Panzer Meteor ,$1100 for the older Panzer, from $25-$750 not even half way done...newer 314-8 $700 and a misbadged (GT-14) with sickle $900... all all I can take for today...heading home, Jeff.

Found a set of carlise ags on craigslist and picked them up really cheap ($30). Put them on and gave the rear rims a quick coat of semi gloss black. Need to finish the wheel paint. Also added the wheelie bars out back and added a drawbar so I can pull a trailer. I hate to cut these machines but I did on the dash tower to fit the gas tank there. I will keep the section I cut so it can be added back with some welding. Coming along nice I think. I decided to soak the carb to be sure it is nice and clean.

This is my 8/32 That my uncle had for years. I took it over after his passing in 2011. I have to say with some hairy raised eye brows I am sure. But this is the best mower that I have ever used. It cuts very smooth And the dump box is so easy to use = one hand dump. It looks like a toy but it is all steel it is a 1994. Ohh over the years I had to put money into it but Look at what you get today. The only plastic it the steering wheel and the shoot and grass catcher. The engine has a cast Iron sleeve. I had to rebuild the deck and I went thru the rest of it. Ready for the leaves now. Enjoy........

ALL of my outdoor equipment get 110/130 octane av gas. Not one drop of that corn fuel. Just a couple of questions here. Were any of these engines running in an extended rich fuel air ratio? How old was the oil in each engine, and how clean was it? Were the engine cooling fins clear, or plugged? How is the engine timing? One thought Im having is detonation. Excessive dirty oil can cause heat build up, and carbon deposits. To rich of a mixture can cause both detonation and heat build up along with added carbon deposits from that unburned fuel. If the engine isn't getting the proper cooling that can also cause pre ignition with added heat. I'm just wondering if any of this may be a reason for the damage noted. I borescoped my 312 a couple of weeks ago after it had been operated with a mixture of Stodard Solovent & Gas. I wish I could have taken pictures to show everyone. But the valves, piston, head,& cylinder wall looked very clean for a 1300+hour engine. I also use Seafoam, but my Meathead Son in Law doesn't. Since I had loaned her to him to use. My Mistake.

My thoughts on this are carbon buildup coming loose before it exits. I have seen carbon buildup chew away the top of the piston. Also a butterfly screw imprint on the piston and head. 91 octane non ethanol

Waiting for the pic with the gate down Jay. Being one of the " tired old guys", I've been thinking of this mod for my trailer. Of course, since I'm also a cheap old scavenger, I will probably use some old garage door springs....now where did I put those......