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Picked up this little Commando 8 today. I looked at it more as buying a mid-mount grader blade, a Lawn Ranger dozer blade, and getting the tractor for free. The tired old girl may not be worth much more than that. In addition to being rusty and worn, all the tires are shot (I took 2 fronts with me just to make it easier to roll onto the trailer), the engine is locked up, and one front spindle is even seized in the axle and won't turn. There are a few good parts there, but probably a bunch of broken bolts and seized parts in the way of getting them off. While this tractor may be lacking in physical value, it certainly has an interesting story. The seller was actually quite fond of the tractor, and was embarrassed about letting it get to this condition. He was quite a talker, and we ended up chatting about the history of the tractor and how it intertwined with his own life story. After hearing it all, I feel a bit reluctant to part it out (it IS in pretty rough shape though) so in honor of the tough little guy, I thought I would tell it's story here. The tractor started life in 1968. It was sold by the dealer in Decatur, IL. The seller recounted that the dealer started by selling Wheel Horses as a travelling salesman, and that Wheel Horse convinced him to set up a store with a showroom, and would give him a credit back on his purchases to reinvest in the store. The Commando 8 was originally sold to an older gentleman, who unfortunately had a stroke not long after getting it. The stroke wasn't fatal, but he was no longer able to use the manual lift so he traded the Commando on one with hydraulic lift. Mark, the seller, served in the Army in Vietnam driving an M113 armored personnel carrier. He showed me pictures of his tank after it hit a land mine, which he referred to as "his last day in Vietnam". He later mentioned injuries he sustained in that attack to both knees and his foot. He was rightfully proud of his service and enjoys reconnecting with the men he served with. He showed me some pictures of incredible scale models he had built of the M113's, and planned to give one to each of the surviving guys he served with when he meets up with them again in a few weeks. Very cool. When he returned home from Vietnam in 1971, he decided that the old Montgomery Wards riding mower he had been using just wasn't up to the task of mowing the rough yard he had. He wanted a real garden tractor with a floating mower deck. He and the Wheel Horse dealer worked out a deal on a slightly used Commando 8. He didn't take it with him right away, and when he returned to get it, he was a little early and caught the dealer using it with the grader blade to level the gravel in his parking lot. The dealer was embarrassed to get caught using a sold tractor, so he threw in the grader blade as part of the deal. The dozer blade was a later purchase from a friend who also had a Wheel Horse. It sounded like the Commando had a fairly active life. It's primary job was mowing. Mark mentioned his wife used it to mow and one time she ran it out of oil and the engine locked up. He said he took it to a machine shop and after getting into it they found that other than a new piston and rings, all the block really needed was honing and it ran fine after that. Mark told stories about using the grader blade to level various projects, and how he used it to help dig a basement by hauling cart-fulls of dirt out of the hole. Mark was proud of his tractor and even though he wasn't a collector, he was a Wheel Horse fan and seemed to know quite a bit about Wheel Horse tractors and company history. He held on to it planning to restore the tractor "someday", but realized he wasn't ever going to get around to it, and even if he did it was going to take alot more work than he initially thought. (He also seemed excited about freeing up some garage space.) He enjoyed seeing a few pictures of my restored Wheel Horses. As I was tying down the tractor on the trailer, he went into the house and came back with a Wheel Horse hat he had purchased a few years back that he wanted me to have. I hadn't planned on spending 2 hours picking up the tractor, but fortunately it was a rare day where I had taken the day off and didn't have anywhere I really had to be. Sure, I had other things I could have done, but I could tell he was really enjoying having a captive audience, and to be honest, I found his stories interesting. This long, holiday weekend will be a good one to see if the tractor has any life left in it, and what scars it might have from it's life experiences.

I picked up my second 520 awhile back from @DeterminingFactor that had no spark. Changed out the 9 pin connector from @rmaynard as the red wire was already routed around the 9 pin. Found the coil was bad and replaced. Motor runs good and now on to the next step. PO said hydro was leaking I think I found the problem so tomorrow I will open up the hydro and replace all seals and gaskets. Plan on wet sanding all the tins and repaint, new decals will need to be ordered. Now if I could only convince @ACman to release the rights to the wheel a matic decals, other wise it may end up being the patriotic series decals. This one may take a while as still working 10hr days and Saturdays. I'll try to post as much as I can. Also picked up an Ark loader for it. Need to build subframe, new hoses and modify a few other things

Just got the loader mounted today. a few things to tightening yet, this was a one owner tractor, the loader was made for a early Allis or simplicity . The loader is a Johnson no.10 and in very nice condition. The tractor had not been used for over 20 years, and the loader was stored in a old barn in N. Iowa, the tractor came from S. Illinois. But I did put a Wheel Horse 520H seat on it.

A great turnout of made for a good showing at the Chambers tractor pulls today.

Could not spend much time on tractor stuff today as wife invited Grandkids over to do late B'day cake day...But I was able to remove the belts supports and modify the belt cover to fit. Now I have to rig the belt supports. Probably going to mount the belt support to the tractor side and only use the cover as a cover.

Well , now that you know the history of the tractor and have begun to bond with it the only logical thing to do is give it a good home and welcome it to your herd. Let the restoration begin! Perhaps an Army paint scheme would be appropriate.

Two more followed us home again. One is a 654 and the other appears to be a 551. The 654 runs cuts and drives, but needs throttle and choke cables, ignition switch, battery, and of course, axle seals. The 551 has the complete deck and even the belt guard, but was bundled with an H60 that was pulled off a snow blower, and is missing the carburetor. The pair set us back $175. I hope we didn't get taken...

The more I thought about it the more it bothered me. I bought this tractor because I love the look of the GT14 with the air cleaner out the side, fenders and overall design. I couldn't bring myself to cut it up to put that engine in it. Maybe if I had another to keep it company but down here these just don't exsist. So I decided to sell the v-twin and located a K341 that I bought to put in it. This motor powered a backup fire pump at an aircraft factory. It was fired up only for maintenance and was never actually used. The seller said it probably has less than 50 hours on it. Its clean and purrs like a tiger. Should make a nice replacement for the worn out 14. Also got my power steering lines welded up.

Don't , ding, ding we have a winner!!! I just got home. We're worn out, but had a great day! I picked up a 68 lawn ranger that will be put to work mowing our yard and a C125. I'm tickled with both and they run great!!! Below are a couple pics I made when we picked them up. Planning on visiting again in December to pick up a few more parts while we are in town for a dr appt. @oldredrider and I have nicknamed the black hood Coyote Ugly since it's so ugly that I just can't help think she looks pretty good!

'60 Model 400

HEY STEVE! I THINK YOU NEED TO LOWER THE DECK MORE IF YOU EXPECT TO CUT ANYTHING!

The view behind us. Any guesses?

Mowed with 1995 520H 60". 42 Degrees 7:00 AM 1 1/4 acres..2 gallons gas, no oil, no parts. Break time now. 67 degrees now 1:50 PM.

I did not man to imply that the rear dual pulley would be the drive for the hydraulic pump. That is not the case. The Hyraulic pump will be driven from a second pulley off the engine crank. The rear dual pulley would only drive the manual transmission and the tiller if and when in use. Tiller would only spin when clutch is engaged which may be problematic. So I'm reconsidering using standard rear pulley and running a belt from 3rd pulley off crank to run rear tiller. If I choose this route, I'd install a new old stock electric clutch I have on the shelf. As far as drive pulley diameter, it may allow me to use hi-lo feature. While I'm more of a hydro guy thus far in my tractor hobby, I have had a few 8 speeds, and I rarely if ever have had any need for low. It might make the tractor a bit more versatile. I will say I don't care to get these beasts to go too quick. It is hard enough on my back to get jostled around at routine common speeds. I imagine if I got it going faster and hit a bump it would just hurt a lot more.

Not true. Wheel Horse wants 3400 rpm on my 1996 312-8 with M12. All the engine RPM literature I have seen is for no load RPM. Kohler and Onan both clearly defer to the equipment manufactures for engine rpm in all the literature I have seen. The last 2 Wheel Horse tractors I got were set to high. You really do not know how many RPM's you are running now. You only know what a 20+ year old lawn tractor tach shows. You need to buy a tachometer. Do not trust that 20+ year old 520 tach. Find the correct manual and read what Wheel Horse wanted for RPM.

Seems it would make for the perfect candidate to do up a custom ARMY ...to honor, and then, share with your seller.

More goodies came in the mail today.

I took mine all apart and cleaned thoroughly. Then lightly scuffed the heavy rust off with a few different scotch brite pads. Only scrubbed enough to remove heavy rust and debris. Then freshened up and replaced what was needed. Ended with a couple coats of Eastwood patina preserver and one coat of gloss clear to give it a little more of a shine. Here's a before and after.

I was frustrated enough at constantly needing to remember to clean the blower screen on my 520H that I decided to fabricate a fix. It's not pretty, but so far it seems to work. I used 22g galvanized riveted together. I thought it was important to use the original screen and hardware to attach the shield as I didn't want to risk any hardware getting into the spinning blower. The hardest part was getting the side of the shield to clear the brake when depressed. The airflow seems good from the top and I haven't seen any overheating, but time and weather conditions might affect that. If I do have issues with air I can easily open up the top.

Take a look at this bulletin. Would it work? Marv Engine cooling screen.pdf

I don't think you need an engineering degree to solve the problem or measure the cfm volume of air flow with and without your invention. If it works for you, that's the important thing! It's your 520H and your creation. Who knows, bu next year the guys telling you the sky is falling and you're going to blow it up might be trying to order one from you for their horses............

Lawn Ranger ('67 or so) and a 321-8?

Any day you pick up a new addition for the herd and get to talk with a fellow member is a good day ...

Thanks for the help everyone!! With a little help from a digital tach the 520 is back up to 3550 rpm!! Shes got 1100 hours and is smooth. The Gov spring was on the first slot so i moved it to the 4th last hole and its great now. Believe it or not the 20+ year old tac on my 520 was pretty accurate lol.

I have "rebuilt" my Nikki emissions carb on my anniversary using the Onan service parts they can be obtained from "Onanparts.com" or any certified CumminsOnan dealer, I don't know the size of the main jets other than there's "low" and "high" elevation jet kits, and others have retrofitted the older carbs vs messing with these, @lynnmor I believe has done this and still has the emissions carb on a shelf, Jeff.

That's some fine and interesting history behind that tractor. You may find it's worth bringing back to life. Given the simplicity of the prior engine repair, it may be simple to get it running again. The spindle can probably be taken apart and cleaned up or replaced. Stuck fasteners happen even on newer Horses (Had my fair share on my 520H...) -- the great thing about Wheel Horse is that they generally are standard SAE fasteners that you can get replacements for at a hardware store that stocks a good selection of nuts, bolts, and other fasteners. Pretty much the same for bearings -- I've learned that either they're standard sizes that are easy enough to obtain, or you can get them from vendors here on Red Square. The biggest cost to restore it to working condition may be time, more so than money.

You need that for your yard!

Now...that's just crazy talk.

Finally I have a few pics from the 416-8 I picked up last weekend. Only the seat pan is pitted so I think the original had been damaged. I had written that the PO had thought the starter had issues but it does crank. Issue is electrical! Think I will need to rewire a lot if not all. Got it to crank a bit but it quit just when it was ready to come back to life! Hope to short the switch so I can get it running so I can start in on it when time allows. They were asking 750.00 but in the end I got it for 550.00 with a 42" deck, dozer blade and grader blade.

With the larger engine pulley coupled with the over sized rear tire you will be hard to keep up with. Don't know about using the rear pulley to drive the pump though, would only have a lift while the clutch is out.

Save this attachment to your computer, it has all the belt information you could ever want. Belts_Mower_spindle_and_drive_belt_charts.pdf

Okay, I have a model 400 and a model 401 that I am considering leaving in it's "work clothes". I have searched but have not found a definitive method to preserve the patina. So, to the experts, I ask, what is the best method to use? Both of these do have a small amount of dark red oxide primer on them that blends in. Should I just leave that as well or try and remove it? Knowing the person I bought these from, I suspect it is there because of possible metal repairs, so don't want to expose bare metal. Model 400 with white seat on the trailer, model 401 with red seat off the trailer. Also, what is your opinion regarding the rims, the 400 has refinished rims in white, but the rears on the 401 are somewhat rusty, leave as is, or clean them up and spray all of them in a linen beige? Please share your methods and tips.

Yup. The diameter of the GT14 Hydro double pulley was same as the 8 speed pulley so I figured I may as well use it since I plan on adding hydraulic pump for the 3 point and later a loader. I could then use it to drive the GT14 tiller. It will be a bit less effective as I'll only be able to till when clutch is engaged. So there is still a chance I'll swap the 8 speed pulley back.

You want it at 3600 with the deck running, + or - 50rpm. Running under this rpm risks overheating the engine. They are designed to be run this way, one to make rated torque and two, to move enough air to cool them. Basic small air cooled engine 101. You definatly do not want to overheat an Onan, that gets expensive quickly as bad things happen. When I set RPMs on a small engine, I shoot for about 3700ish no load. While this is a bit overspeed, its ok. I want to see it fall back and maintain at the 3600 range I typed above with the deck running in the shop. Then the Gov will maintain that, or should, when the deck is working in the grass. This will keep the engine, doesn't matter the brand or model of air cooled engine, in its power band and at proper cooling temps. Also, do not rely on that dash gauge, get a proper tach to set engine rpms. They sell them just for that, look like a pocket calculator or you have the Tiny Tach that B&S sells in ther parts selection. I would use that till I know that dash tach is correct when compared to a known accurate tach. Mike Should just be a throttle stop or cable adjustment on the Onan to get her back to full power. If you haven't done a cylinder head decarbon and valve lifter adjustment, you need to research that ASAP, very important to the life of the Onan twin. Mike 30+ years of small engine work

WFO

Well I took another crack at the clutch linkage and I'm glad I took the time to do so. I was able to make it work runningbit inside the tunnel so I won't have to cut access hole in the fender. Also got brake linkage all set. The belt guard is going to be a project in and of itself. I'll get started on that tomorrow. In the pic the parking brake is set which is why the pedal leans forward.

You run 3600 RPM for any mower.

I picked up this old 312- about two years ago for $50. Had three flat tires, missing pieces, messed up wiring, and lots of dirt. I had to drag it out of an old shed that was about to collapse onto it. Lots of cleaning, parts, paint, and work on it over the past two years, probably more than I realize if I add it up. It wasn't high priority, because I had other WH projects that I valued more. Figured I'd just fix it up to sell. But now that it's running, I hate to get rid of it. Funny how you become attached to it after putting a lot of work into it. It runs and looks great, so I might put a plow on it this winter.

Just choose your method of cleaning first... I like to start by pressure washing mine, then a light buff job using a red scotch brite pad... then seal it with the Johnson's paste wax. You can take all, or none of the rust off, it's up to you...I prefer mine smooth to the touch. It's also OK if you get down to bare metal in places...the Johnson's will protect it. My "custom" 551 has been bare metal for over two years now.

702 with PTO 66 hooked to elevator

Here are a few - Emory driving his new 63 Lawn Ranger and he and my wife out for a ride on his Lawn Ranger and my 73 GT14. I think I have a higher resolution one of him close up. Here's two more of our suburbans.

@stevebo I found this pic of Brennan and my little cuz Sam riding around the grounds on Saturday morning . Sam had a great time hanging out with your son . He said he's definitely coming back next year but we need to leave the girls at home !

Those are cool pictures!

calendar shot.

This page has the belt numbers and dimensions for a 36" rear discharge deck that will fit your tractor. Not necessarily the deck you have but the belts will be the same. Click on the fuzzy picture below Garry

Great work and engineering Aldon. Noticed the auxiliary pulley on the transmission shaft. Plan on running a tiller or.....what kind of surprise implement on your beast?

No type of silicate should ever be used for blasting . Now , that said I have used it in the past quite a lot and it does work well - we have 4 very large pits near this area so the stuff is pretty cheap . Using any type of silicate requires the use of a respirator and honestly you need organic rated cartridges to really be safe - the normal R100 series dust filters are not good enough . I've watched several of our Retirees die a slow death from silicosis - no human should ever die that way but years ago they didn't use any sort of protection from the stuff - just didn't know any better . Due to all the training we have to carry and certifications to work in my industry (Union Laborer) I have the equipment here to prevent problems - but that equipment is seriously expensive . Last set of cartridges I bought were nearly $100 alone - those are just for painting with enamel hardener and reducers . Having full HazMat , IMSHA , OSHA certifications keeps us up on industry changes and requirements for protection , not to mention being educated on what can slowly or quickly kill you . Now , as to what the average guy can use in a blast pot , safely - Be careful buying coal slag - it's cheap on average but will contain traces of silicates . Quality brands will be lower amounts but it's always there - so wear protection . Do not rely on cheap dust masks - they will not protect you from lead or organics in existing paints - remember the age of our tractors and some related equipment - even trailers . Older paints can contain lead and several other bad elements - so when you blast it the stuff becomes airborne in small enough particles to be ingested into your lungs/sinus systems . Same with zinc based galvanizing compounds which can be even worse . Wear a respirator and read up or get training on proper and correct mask fitting from a local Fire Dept - they can show you in short order the proper fitment of a half mask . There are times you can't wear a blast hood - when using a grinding shield or similar a lot more particles end up in your face , so proper fitment is very important or you're wasting your time . Ear plugs are also a must - the noise alone is bad enough but getting that fine dust in your ears is not fun , nor easy to flush out and can cause infections , been there - done that on a big pipeline project . As an example of grit size / dust content and results - Black Diamond from TSC in coarse grade , very little fines (dust) versus the Black Blast from Menards - around a buck a bag difference in price per 50lb bags . The excessive dust in the Black Blast from Menards means it will not cut nearly as efficient , especially on heavy mill scale and rust - nor cut through heavy paint runs as is the case with many trailers . Not to mention it takes forever to get any decent results . Keep in mind that the more coarse the media , the larger the nozzle size required to use it - the coarse Black Diamond at that heavy grit range takes a 5/32" tip size at minimum . Testing last night after waiting all day for UPS to show up (they are usually here by 10:30 , but didn't come until 16:10 !!) wasted a whole work day in perfect weather , but the new nozzles at that size work excellent and don't run the compressor out of the cfm needed to make the pot work correctly . The lighter media from Menards can use 1/8" or even smaller nozzles , but will not do the heavy work such as this extremely thick , rusty mill scale that they painted over - I'll try to get some pics later today to show the results of the heavier grit media from TSC - it works 3 times as fast and cuts right through that scale in a hurry , far better results and much less overall dust . It's nearly impossible to photograph the detail in the metal , but I do not recommend this heavier media for use on thinner sheet metal - you'll have to fill in the surface with a lot of builder/primer to get a decent finish job on your paint . On really thin metal it could actually cut through or even warp it from heat - yes metal can get hot from the abrasive action of the media . Here's the mods to the Clarke pot setup - first is the modified feed piping and the wye fitting to aid in better flow mixture of the media into the air stream - 3/8"x1/4"NPT "T" style high flow plug fitting to get better cfm through the pot system - The older style water separators flow better than the newer ones - you may need to upgrade the separator if you have a newer pot or one of the off branded ones . Most of the culprit is the moisture wicking coalescent element inside - they are too fine to allow enough cfm to flow through and plug up easily . High cfm rating separators can be had in 1/2-3/4NPT sizes pretty reasonable - just make sure parts can be had later . The business end of the blast hose setup - This is not a dead man valve setup - so be aware if you happen to lose control of this thing it can seriously hurt you - sandblasting streams will remove clothing and skin very quickly and the results are not fun to look at . This setup is just a simple hose adapter , 1/2"NPTx3/4"NPT adapter, 3/4" steel ball valve and the nozzle adapter sold by the auction site seller . The nozzle is the common C series 3-3/4"L X 1-1/8" base diameter and 5/8" tip diameter tapered cone nozzle style . These are high velocity venturi style nozzles , hence the tapered portion which will accelerate the air volume/pressure and concentrate the media into a blast stream . Far more efficient than the usual straight nose wide pattern or short nose style nozzles sold with many of these blast pots . The last 1/8" nozzle ran through 1,100lbs of finer media before any noticeable change in tip sizing - it's out to .138" compared to the starting point of .125" (1/8") . Very little wear versus how much work it's done already and lots of life left . The new nozzles I buy are now from McMaster and are ultra hardened ceramic USA made quality nozzles - around $11.42 each and will outlast any of the small nozzles 10:1 easily . McMaster does sell the real-deal dead man valve setup for use with these nozzles - it's right at $100 and probably worth the investment just for safety's sake . They also sell the rubber stop blocks for that valve setup at a minor cost for 3-packs . This stuff , while expensive will put a cheap blast pot nearly on par with commercial equipment , albeit a couple thousand dollars cheaper . The whole key to doing this stuff is having an air compressor that can handle the task and push enough cfm to do the job . It's also very important to note I'm running large diameter piping , hoses and fittings . At the smallest point I use 1/4" I/M plugs and couplers for most small air tools and such by running an adapter to go from the larger high-flow 3/8" "T" style plugs/couplers . The smallest hose I run on anything in the system is 3/8" . Piping system is 3/4" and the main hoses are 1/2" with 3/8"NPT ends , not the common 1/4" hose ends . This makes a huge difference in flow and heat back to the compressor source and keeps the cfm high enough to do this type of work . I'm also using a second 60 gallon reservoir tank outside to aid in storage to take some loading off the pump . Biggest trick is trying to keep the water out when it's humid and lately that's been a real issue . The pipe leg drops in the basement catch a lot of it and 3 different system filters along the way help as the air stream cools from the distance traveled to the blast area . A proper chiller and air/water separator would be the ultimate setup but even smaller systems cost several thousand dollars . If you're really serious about doing larger jobs it would be much better to rent a trailer mounted rotary pump setup at least 85cfm in size - then you'd have unlimited air flow for an even larger blast pot system . I missed out on a nice 85cfm trailer unit last year - it sold for only $800 due to the engine not running , which I can fix easily enough . I'd really rather not do large jobs anyway - so no big loss there . If I were younger I'd be very interested in buying into a full trailer mounted dustless blast system - but not at my age , lol . Red garnet cuts great , but in cabinets it's really tough to keep up with the dust and have a large enough dust collector that can handle enough air flow to keep the cabinet cleared . The Scat HEPA blast collector would work well , but they are around $400 for a decent sized one . Just a heads up too - shop vacs aren't a good idea for dust removal - their motors and filters are not rated to handle this type of dust and will basically spew a lot of the most harmful small particles into the air around that vac . Yes , using a respirator when even doing cabinet work is a good idea - no cabinet system is perfectly sealed unless it's a dedicated commercial cabinet with a matching dust collector and protection must still be used when servicing the system . An alternative to garnet , which is expensive for what it is would be to use angular shaped glass - it will remove the heaviest rust scale and paint and still leave an acceptable surface finish for painting . I generally run 40/80 glass beads in my big shop cabinet with good results and it's cost isn't bad . I'd never recommend using play sand - it contains a certain percentage of clay - that is what will bind it together and it also attracts moisture like a sponge . If you want to keep costs down , use a very fine coal slag and a small cone nozzle setup or Scat's trigger type blast gun for siphon systems and a large, clean tarp . The material can be re-used and screened to remove dirt and recycled . Be aware that this will create more potentially harmful dust since you're adding in paint dust , rust , galvanizing/zinc coatings and such, so again - respirator is a must . One other thing I have not touched upon but it's important in both cabinets as well as outdoor siphon/pot blasting - pressures . At most I run 100psi of air pressure , regulated at the compressor's outlet by a filter/regulator . Using excessive pressure over 90psi will quickly erode gun parts , blast hoses and in cabinet systems it will destroy the media much quicker . If you're not getting good results it's a lack of cfm and velocity in your system , not a lack of pressure . On large commercial pot systems we use at Work we only run 90psi on everything - it's the industry limit . Results come easier the more cfm used and the better the nozzle design - hence my upgrading the pot system as well as my cabinet to better nozzles . The Scat blast gun in the cabinet (more pics to come) uses a tungsten carbide nozzle that is designed to provide a much better wear rate and keep the stream shaped correctly . On that type of blast guns it's also important to have the correct air jet and they still wear and have to be changed . Cheap siphon guns sold for bucket use have their air jet built into the handle so once they wear much the gun is useless . Once the air jet is worn you'll also wear out tips faster - so keep that in mind too . One of these Scat 35 series guns , a suction hose and mixer and a bucket for media with a decent compressor could get you started and provide much better results than the crap Campbell setup at home and farm stores http://www.tptools.com/S-35-Series-Trigger-Operated-Power-Gun,8592.html?b=d*8026 http://www.tptools.com/Siphon-Hose-and-Pickup-Tubes.html Replacement nozzles and air jets are cheap and you can size them to fit your air system's cfm capability easily with some research . Anyway , hands are tired and I've got to get out there and get to work - more pics/info to come... Sarge

Farm King and other farm supply stores sell a black upholstered pan seat that looks real nice. I believe they sell for around $30.

Another day with the Allis. Got most of the tin work painted today.

@857 horse I thought you were talking about Jay hanging his butt out the window dropping road apples ! I really don't want pics of that .