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I picked up this old 312- about two years ago for $50. Had three flat tires, missing pieces, messed up wiring, and lots of dirt. I had to drag it out of an old shed that was about to collapse onto it. Lots of cleaning, parts, paint, and work on it over the past two years, probably more than I realize if I add it up. It wasn't high priority, because I had other WH projects that I valued more. Figured I'd just fix it up to sell. But now that it's running, I hate to get rid of it. Funny how you become attached to it after putting a lot of work into it. It runs and looks great, so I might put a plow on it this winter.

I have two means of cleaning paint/rust here and some thoughts that might help others about their use and mods to make them perform better . One is an old Snap On glass bead blast cabinet that lives in the basement shop , the other an older model Clarke sand blasting pot . The Snap On works ok , but it's gun was super expensive as well as replacement tips and especially the tempered glass window in the cabinet . Solved the gun issue with a TP Tools Scat gun with a carbide blast nozzle and their custom pickup tube design which helps to better mix air into the media stream since this cabinet is a suction type . The dumb glass window and it's associated gasket was replaced with some aluminum extrusions , gaskets and just common grade single strength glass from the Hardware store . Lasts just about as long as the tempered , much easier to change and I've only broken it once . I also opened up the cabinet's air intake with a larger hole and diversion baffle to help it flow air better . Still needs a proper dust extractor , will eventually get a Scat Hepa type as they have a nice design and far better pricing on filters and such . TP also has some pretty good rubber coated gloves at half the cost of Snap On - and they last longer . The Clarke blast pot has been a pain in the keister for a very long time . I hated the dead man valve setup it used , the tips weren't easy to get nor cheap for their short life span and they only sell the dumb things in 3-packs that are 3 different sizes , if you need only the 1 size you're screwed with quite a few useless spares . A trip to the large Auction site and solved that problem by switching to a ball valve setup that a guy builds that uses the more common and far more durable 3-3/4" long by 5/8" tip by 1-1/8" base tapered ceramic venturi nozzles . Now - for the warning : this is not a dead man setup , if you drop it or something happens to you that setup will not shut itself off since it's just a common ball valve , so be wary with it . However , those tapered cone style nozzles last 50 times longer than the little junk design short ones that come with these common Chinese built blast pots . There is another dead man gun out there that might work better if you want to go that route and it will use the cone style nozzles , but it's quite cumbersome and hard to use in tight areas . To stop blasting , this one works by just shutting the ball valve off , quickly . Be aware that his included valve won't last long since it's brass - the thing wasn't even machined straight and the Black diamond media found it's way around the ball in short order , so it started to leak/bypass air pressure a bit . Once that gets started , in a short time of about 100lbs of coal slag it blew a hole in the side of the valve . Found an old heavy USA made steel valve rated for high pressure steam systems - this one should hold up for a long time . First , let's start with a bit of lesson on media - it can be the biggest part of what you're trying to accomplish . Too heavy of a grit requires a much larger nozzle and far higher cfm compressor , which most people don't have . The profile left by that larger media or screen size can also damage lighter gauge sheet metal , aluminum and other soft metals - it will leave a very rough profile . Now , on heavier rusty , scaled steel such as 1/8" thickness - it's perfect but having enough cfm is the problem . Here's a chart to help understand the media sizing : http://www.blackdiamondabrasives.com/media/1060/usminerals-blackdiamond-nozzleconversionchart.pdf The numbering system is the screening sizing - 2040 means grit size between 20 and 40 grit , which is pretty aggressive and works only with larger cfm/hole size tips , otherwise it will clog easily . At 3/16" nozzle sizing , that would require either a very high volume reciprocating 2-stage compressor over 30cfm or a engine driven rotary . Running 30/60 grit and using the smaller 1/8" nozzle allows the use of a good quality 2-stage compressor in the 23-28cfm range . Common size machine for most shops and finding a good used one is generally pretty easy . It must be a continuous run capable unit - not the cheap modern versions sold in the stores today but a commercial grade type with a heavy cast iron pump and at least 5hp . Anything smaller/lighter won't last long and can't keep up with the demand of the cfm required - you'll just burn it up and probably ruin the pump/motor in short order from heat . I use an old early 80's Speed Air 27cfm 2-stage unit with 5hp heavy series motor - this thing is north of 500lbs total with the 80 gallon tank and was a freebie - but needed repairs such as new legs and some work on it's pressure switch . It's ran here for nearly 20yrs now with barely a glitch , oil changed when it turns dark and new air filters when needed - will probably outlive me . Nice part of this one is the common Champion rebuild/gasket/reed kits will fit it as the pumps were made by Champion in my hometown of Princeton , Illinois . If you can find an older R-30 series equipped pump/ 80 gallon compressor used - buy it as they run forever . Prior to 1985 is best , but even later models are far better than other brands . Now , to the pot - This old Clarke used a crappy cast tee and brass ball valve to regulate the media at the bottom of the tank . This results in a less than consistent media flow and the tee's won't last long due to the media having to make that 90* turn when it's mixing into the air stream . I found some mods others have done on the net and ordered a malleable iron wye fitting in 1/2"NPT . Not easy to find , but they are out there - https://www.amazon.com/FNPT-Malleable-Iron-Wye/dp/B0078S2P4Q/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504186031&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F2"+wye This fitting mod allows a much smoother transition and far better/more consistent mixing of the media and air as well as provides better overall air flow/volume . Much less clogging at the valve as well . It took some adapters and such to get it fitted but sure made a difference how well the unit works . I'll have to get some better pics but you can pick the wye out in this photo of yesterday - trying to clean out a batch of wet media from the pot (no , not fun) . Blasting this irritating 6.5'x12' US Cargo utility trailer and it's heavy mill scale/rust/paint . They evidently used imported steel and the mill scale layer is tough to get off - not to mention they painted right over the top of it , which allows it to rust from inside out easily . The heavy rust/mill scale where the decking was sitting had to first be removed with the needle scaler - otherwise you'll spend a lot of extra time blasting it off as the stuff creates a cushion to the media stream . Needle scaler is the Ingersoll Rand attachment version that fits the common air hammers threaded heads - scaler runs on a simple medium barrel one and works great for the $40 cost at TSC . This all started when the trailer was loaded , the big D180's hydro coupling failed and I had to put the trailer on the jack loaded . The original tongue was only built with 1/8" thick 2x3 angle iron - not a good idea in my opinion but I'm no engineer . Needless to say - the tongue failed when the trailer tried to roll against the wheel chocks when it was on the jack - just a slight depression in the driveway did the damage as the tongue just twisted into a pretzel as I was trying to hook it up to the truck . Watching it slowly go sideways to the ground in the truck's rear view camera is a sight no one wants to see , trust me . New tongue is 2x3x3/16" wall rectangular tubing , US Steel specifically . All welded with 7018 rod with beveled joints in 2 passes for proper strength . This will also help stiffen the nose of this thing - the angle iron allowed far too much flex in the front half of their design - it had cracked 4 welds in the main frame already - all of which have been properly repaired . Between the heavy mill scale and rust in the main frame areas I've had to switch from the lighter 80/100 grit from Menard's https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/concrete-cement-masonry/bagged-concrete-cement-mortar/black-blast-blasting-sand/p-1444445322601.htm to the more coarse 2040 Black Diamond from TSC . The only nozzle size I had here was the 1/8" tapered cones so I'm waiting on UPS this morning to bring the 5/32" size nozzles from McMaster in Chicago - I love how they can get me stuff overnight . I'll try to get some better pics today of the blast profiles , Clarke pot tank mods and the nozzle setups I'm using . Maybe it will help others determine what to get and how to use it when cleaning their tractors/equipment/trailers for restoration work or otherwise . So far this mill scale issue has cost me 14-50lb bags of coal slag . I should have used the heavier grit size to start with , but the finer grit should have done the job . I will say this - the Black Blast brand from Menard's might be cheaper at $6.99/bag , but the amount of dust and extra fine media isn't worth the savings unless you're doing very light work . The Black Diamond brand is far more consistent and nearly no dust or fines , but it also costs more at $7.99/bag . If the trailer hadn't been so bad to start with I'd have used a large tarp to catch the media and recycle it into the pot with a sifting screen to keep out the junk . It's more work , but does save money in the long term . Hope this all helps - figured I'd give back to the forum a bit while I'm waiting on the brown guy to show up with my nozzles ...lol . Sarge

Holy cow, this one stumped Jason AND Eric? Mark this in your family bibles, boys! I've never seen that one either. It doesn't look like Ireland Rd. quality to me though...looks more robust. Gary is probably on to something. I've never seen in person the Fairbury unit, but that sure seems to make sense. There was one on eBay many years ago in Illinois around Rantoul; not sure who bought it. I thought long and hard about it at the time to go with the other styles. Steve

Lowell @wheelhorseman has them coming out his ears. I like 80/90 lube.

Can't rebuild the Onan fuel pumps and the factory O.E. is near $100 but there is good news I get them off a 2 pack for $20 and so far so good, you can disassemble the old pump and check the flimsy diaphragm for holes (usually caused by ethanol/dirt in the fuel) and a weak plunger spring but again it's not rebuildable unless someone starts making kits, Jeff.

So, this is a little weird.. but bare with me. I need some help to prove it. This 1962 Wheel Horse 552 came home the other day: I got it from a friend of mine who said it sat in his field for the past 7 years since it was parked. He lives in Bethel. He said he got it from his parents who brought up years before that (how many is unknown..) to haul firewood from his large yard up to the house in a home made trailer. He said they got it from the Mary Travers estate sale, and when he got it, it had a hand made custom embroidered seat, which is unique. It's long gone now, unfortunately. Mary Travers was the Mary from "Peter, Paul and Mary" the band.. who I guess was sorta famous well before I was kicking around on this planet. He said he's heard that Mary used to drive it around her yard with a garden cart behind it in her gardens at her house, wherever that was.. a quick google search turns up nothing for me, so I can't verify it. Can anyone help? The machine itself is in really nice shape, all things considered. The gas tank is clean, and the bolt holes for the hood are all intact. It's got a Tecumseh engine, which I'm no big fan of, but it spins free by hand. The transmission is dry as a bone, but it shifts through its gears OK. I was originally taking it home as a parts tractor to complete my 753, but.. with this information, I think I'll hold off on that for a bit. Heck, it's arguably in nicer condition! haha! Curious... Mike

Caught this one on a break at a worksite this morning. Had to go around the block and take a picture.👍 Obviously it was supposed to say blackhood, not blackwood...autocorrect kills me

motor12,1958,RJ58 motor12,1964,854 motor12,RJ58 and 1964,854

I would replace it with an electric low pressure fuel pump.

A possibility? - hitch forms a tractor bumper Taken from this file A search found a front mount mower made by Fairbury for the Cub tractors that was painted red. No mention of the mower type. Garry

Story could very well be true, seems odd some one would make that story up but ya never know. I'd clean it up, get it running and paint the rims and throw a new seat cover on and enjoy it.

Heh! That's no rock crawler. That's just the hood of a 312 that someone gave me after they took the motor out of the poor thing to power up an Allis Chalmers. Eventually it's gonna be part of a mailbox post along with an old broke frame and a cut up fender pan I came across.. tribute to WH!

Back in 2012 I bought a Work Horse 700 from a friend. It was not running with a newer 8HP Techumseh retrofitted. I got it running and mowed with it a little bit before I ripped it apart and did a full restoration. The tractor turned out so beautiful I did not want to use it. So it sat in the garage for two years until I sold it and put the money towards a Harley. So I went the last two years without a tractor. I recently shopped around looking at John Deere X300-series tractors and really liked what I rode, but did not want to pay that much money. Last weekend my friend went to a show in Portland, Indiana and brought me a tractor. I am now the proud owner of a 857! I was intending on having a B or C series, but I could not resist another short frame. It runs and mows great. It appears to be very complete and originally, but could use some cleaning up. Somebody brushed paint all over and it is driving me crazy! It also came with a plow, rear lift, and the original cigar lighter. My plans are to remove the brushed-over paint to reveal the original patina, new tires and wheel paint, redo the dash, and some other new parts. The original deck works well, but is rotted in the from center - so I need to find a new deck. My friend picked up another deck, but it is not the same and does not look usable. What deck do I have mounted on the tractor, is it a 5-1362?

Always looking for good used tools. Found this set on cl a month ago. Was the guys grandfathers. Tools look new lightly if ever used. 1/2" drive sockets sae with ratchet set of comb wrenches proto 1/4" shallow and deep sockets 4 Pratt reed screw drivers kromedge dovetail saw And some other good stuff. All USA made

Found this on an old 8mm home movie, ME, showing my trim around a tree technique, all be it a bit rough, but not that bad for a 7 year old!! 1962!! wheelhorse.mp4

Closest connection I could find.

Alright, here's some more pictures. There is a single bolt thru the frame and there are tabs on both the top and bottom of the bracket to hold it horizontal and keep it from tipping on the frame. I think I'm going to throw this out on the junkies FB page and see if it draws any hits too. Thanks!

That is way too big a brush for that potty!

check the bolts on the bearing cover plate, lots of oil around that part of the motor. if the carb is leaking fuel through would be or should be blowing a lot of black smoke and the float should be heavy or the needle seat has dirt blocking it open but that should cause it to burn rich again blowing black smoke. make sure the block off plug is in place for the oil filter hole, it will help keep the motor cool. good luck eric j

Supporting our great vendors is a good thing. I'm with the 80w90 too. That's all I've used for years.

I just mask off the footboard area and add sand to black Rustoleum. You could also add black beauty blasting media for a more coarse grit. Then follow up with another coat of black paint. I like this system because it is so inexpensive and the rust does not start underneath the glued on floorboards. I used it on a motorcycle lift that gets walked on almost daily and it holds up fine.

http://www.classickitchensandmore.com/wheel-horse-tractors-parts-c-42/

or I'll second Dick's fuel pump suggestion. Don't forget a fresh fuel filter and lines as required. Give her a good bath and check/clean the breather per manual. Make sure those fins are clean. Looks like ya got a new air filter already. Check spark plugs for correctness. Do a compression check or better yet a leak down test for those valves/rings suspicions. A valve adjustment might be in order too. Might want to take a peek at the fuse block and 9 pin for issues.

Thanks for the lead @gwest_ca Garry... I think this line sums up what I see.... Will have to put out some feelers now. Quick investigation shows that there was at least one of these units floating around central IL around 68... found an auction bill with on listed on a 1075 tractor... along with a Bachtold Level LIft! If only I could find an auction like that today I'll get more pictures soon Jim... just working from what I had on the camera.

To post your tractor for sale just clock on the "Classified" and then on "For Sale" on the drop down box and click on "Add New Classified". There is a requirement that a price be listed, but it can be price Or Best Offer and include that in the write up.

There is a 15 amp fuse that feeds the PTO and the headlights and Volt/Hour meters. There should be a Pink wire from the fuse that goes to the headlight switch and then to the meters; and another that goes to the clutch. After giving every inch of both pink wires a careful examination if you haven't found the problem I would remove the pink wire from the clutch and see if the short clears. If it has not cleared then remove the pink wire to the light switch. hope this helps.

Got ya covered...fixed 👍 ! Mike.....

Here, I thought he was in the job johnny.

I'm missing something here, where's this beach ball and bikini you guys are talking about? And move over, I wanna see too! How many of you guys are Googling "Mary Travers Wheel Horse" right now?

Great stuff Sarge!! Am especially glad to see your stressing the need for CFM from your compressor. Sooo often you'll see "well my compressor puts out 125-135-150 etc PSI." and while you do need a good pressure, it wont do much good if it runs out!

models with that decal set were typically known as no name 12, despite being the same as the models above. I suspect the blue dymo label is the GD Mountfield serial number as my GT14 has the same label...

Interesting you say that Ed. That's exactly what the fella thought it was that I got it from. I put no stock in it at the time considering he muffed up a perfectly good plow by welding brackets on it because he couldn't figure out how to mount it. So, clean the carb and get a new pulse pump? Can I rebuild it?

Hi, Yep , as Richard says. However, it was a confusing year in the Belgium Assembly Plant with naming Tractors. I have the same Model number and it originally had some cheap old stickers quoting Raider 12 !. I chose to re decal mine to a C-120 to follow Toro's records. If you type 1-0353 into this Link, it will give you the Illustrated Parts List (IPL). So in 74, there are 12hp Tractors labelled as Raider12, 12HP 8 Speed and C-120 !. If you want to see what I had done with mine, here is a Link to the rebuild topic- Rebuild . Hope yours is in much better condition than mine was. If you need any help with it, just ask. Good luck with whatever you plan to do with it. .

Not sure, but can a leaking pulse fuel pump pull fuel into the crankcase ??

Just like Ed ....bikini and a beach ball and guess what he wants to look at! Seriously that tractor has got an awesome patina and all techys aside is a real keeper. Probably only God & Mary Travers know the truth about the story and only one is alive yet (Google says she died at the ripe old age of 72 in 2009) but still. I personally would oil that girl down and get her in good mechanical shape as best one could without messing with the patina and use it for continued garden work and of course tractor shows! Interesting weight on the front Mike we may well have to see somemore pics of that beach ba... err.... bikini!

I've been sporting the 520 badge for a lil bit now, so I thought I'd take a minute to introduce the latest member of my herd. With special thanks to a couple of members, I am now the proud owner of a 520H. It was picked up as a non-runner, but after some shop time it runs & drives good. Its first job at my place was to pull down a partially broken branch from my black walnut tree. Of course this beast had no problem handling it. She looks proud after conquering the first job at her new residents.

Like the yard art. Wish there was a way to prove the PP&M Mary Travers connection, she was a wonderful singer and old f@rts like me were fans of PP&M. I would keep it as is and make a placard with the history accompanied by an album cover with her picture on it as a show display. You can't provide absolute proof, but no can disprove it so the fable of the 552 will live on.

Nice 552 and with a cool story. What's the rock crawler in the background?

Fail for an air cleaner. Too tall. Should I tear it open and change the cam, better valve springs and steel push rods and also billet rods? If I get 500 likes I will do it.

Batten down the hatches.

Oh my Tuna ...you just get off the boat? Please tell us your yankin our It's a joke Tractor = bikini hood lawn ornament = beach ball

I say A custom plenum to the the hood louvers or a shaker hood setup along with your other upgrades ! This a cool build buy the way ! I'd give you 500 likes myself I could.

Sorry for the late reply but thanks for the help. I picked up all the peices I needed and put it together over the weekend. Including a bracket to help support the extra weight. I will soon be getting some header wrap for it. Here are some picks.

Click above the red bar Garry

You will have to make a puller using all 5 of the bolt holes in the hub, or you will break the hub. Go to browse forums, and do a search for "hub pullers". You will get several hundred ideas.

I like that thought and I am thinking an old fashioned fuse block or breaker. The standard fuse on the light circuit is there. Actually, now that you mention that, with a solid fuse in series the ammeter wouldn't fry anything! Except the fuse, ha ha ha!

I have honestly never seen that bracket before, but the quality and matching patina with the tractor is very interesting. Perhaps some allied attachment mounting bracket.

Just a couple pics to show progress continues albeit slowly as I wait for parts and trying to find the perfect belt length. I had hoped to run the clutch rod inside the tunnel but will have to make due with close proximity to the side of tunnel. I will run the brake rod inside but will need to do surgery on the side panel. It took two days to make the rod from brake band to lever as an example of how seemingly small projects can eat up inordinate amount of time.

IDK ...sorry I had too...