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At Le Seuer pioneer power --- Le Seuer Minnesota

Neighbor is redoing his driveway. They dumped a Triax load 20+tons of 2A modified. Didn't run it, dropped in two piles. The D200 with FEL and york rake got a work out spreading the stuff up and down the driveway. (I got a good work out also. Steering a D200 with a full bucket is not easy). Also with the York rake on the back (also serves a counter weight) this thing is long and hard to maneuver.). Hydro temp never got above 180 and she dug holes in the driveway pushing into the piles. (with beet juice in each wheel and 50lbs weights on each in addition to the york rake. Got out the C120 with Midmount blade and it did a great job leveling off the stuff and was much easier to use.

The best measuring tools in the world will not do you much good if you are not proficient in their use. A cylinder bore gauge needs to be held exactly perpendicular to the cylinder wall and the slightest variation will give you an erroneous reading. You can get a good idea of the condition of the cylinder by removing the piston and removing it's rings. Compress the top ring and insert it into the cylinder and use the piston to "square it up" at the top of the cylinder then measure the end gap of the ring. Use the piston to keep the ring square and move it about a quarter of the way down the cylinder and check the end gap at this point; also shine a light from below and look for the slightest light leakage past the rings (out of roundness check). Repeat this process at one half and three quarters and bottom of the cylinder bore. If there is any light leakage past the ring you have an out of round condition. If the measurement of the end gap changes at all this is an indication of cylinder bore wear. In either case a hone won't do the trick and you would be well advised to take it to a small engine machine shop for proper measurement.

If it is polished like glass that indicates there has probable been some metal wear i.e the original honing fine scratches have been worn off to leave a polished cylinder. The amount of wear on the cylinder needs to be measured. If you don't have the tools to measure the cylinder, take it to an engine machine shop or a friend that has the tools. see the spec's for a k181 in this link http://www.smallenginesuppliers.com/html/engine-specs/kohler/k91_K141_K161_K181_K241_K301_K321_k341.pdf

I had never seen the PTO under a before, very cool. The wagon lift is quite interesting too.

Give A-Z tractor a call, he probably has a couple pairs on hand that I bought the tires off from this summer. From the pictures the rear tires look good, are they torn or just dry cracked? The fronts are easy to come by, @dells68 picked up a pair for next to nothing that look good, think they came from Miller Tire as a clearance item. I have a paper element air filter on one of mine, (PITA to change) and probably less effective than the oil bath when it comes to keeping dust out of the engine. I see that the elbow for the air filter had a hole in it, but a little JB Weld will fix that. If you decide to go paper be sure to squirrel it away for the future if you later decide to sell it or bring it back to original. For a worker I would go electric with the fuel pump, grab power from the ignition coil "+" terminal and put a 10 Amp fuse in line to power it. The present fuel pump has a primer lever on it and is correct for the 1054; save it along with the air filter. Have fun and keep us posted.

Seems the Dino on a Stick made a trip over to Merry ol" England to attend a tractor show and participate in a "Special Event!" !

If you don't have a battery charge and volt meter any good auto parts store will charge and load test the battery. The best thing to do with any electrical problem is to clean and tighten all electrical connections including grounds.

Welcome to the forum. When disconnecting a battery remove the negative (-) battery cable first. When connecting a battery install the negative (-) battery cable last. If the top of the battery is not clean and dry remove it from the tractor. If it is wet it has battery acid on it that will eat clothing and metal so be careful. Spray down with a cleaner and flush with water. A mixture of baking soda and water will neutralize the acid. (Dampness on the top of the battery will cause it to discharge. It is a short between the battery posts) First off you need to determine if it will not hold a charge or if it is being charged at all. Charge the battery up if you can. It is impossible to diagnose an electrical system with a bad battery or one that is undercharged. Has to be a known good battery that is charged. If it is 5-7 years old just replace it because it has come to the end of it's life. That happens even sooner with many of today's batteries. Check the voltage across the battery posts. Should be slightly above 12 volts. Now start the engine and let it run. The voltage should slowly increase to about 14.4 volts as the charging system replaces the charge you just used to start the engine. Let us know what you find. Garry

Now, this is a work tractor, not a show tractor. But Wheelhorse aren't box store junk and never were. I take pride in my equipment and trucks, none of which were bought new but I've always bought for quality and good equipment holds up that's why I bought my 3/12. Was a little dirty and dusty so today I decided to give it a late summer cleanup. Wash, scrub, polishing compound and a coat of wax. I washed and dried it then rubbed some mothers step 1 on it then johnsons paste wax per suggestion on the site. That's a blast from the past, my nana used that on everything! Im happy with the results. Still has some scratches but I'm ok with them. I got this tractor a little over a year ago from the original owner's son. I still am impressed with not only the craftsmanship but the performance and the mowing quality is as good or better than any commercial walkbehind I've ever run.

Its such a Beautiful day, i went to my Son's Stable and Rustled the 1054 out to wash at Local car wash, Getting ready to rebuild carb, Get New tires, search for new wheels, just make it look good enuf, its going to be another worker, i'm debating on Oil Bath filter, i know that its a OEM part & its important, BUT its gonna be a working Tractor, so i'll make my mind up on that ? Finding Wheels may be hard i'm thinking, the right rear is rusted bad, i'm afraid when i sand blast it , it will blo right thru ?, i will rebuild the Hyd pump, well heck you guys want sum pics ? 953 probably shaking & waiting on sum LOL, Give me sum idea's, Fred I'm thinking it may be a good candidate for electric fuel pump 953 suggested ? What do you think

i always run hone thru cylinder to put crosshatch back in if it smooth the rings won't seat and will burn oil. least that is what i was told. last couple engines i done k181 and k301 i sent em to machine shop 40 bucks they checked em out bored them if needed and honed all i done was put them back together. always install new rings if you pull the piston out cylinder better insurance now then latter when it has blowby and burns oil

You need a cylinder bore gauge to check for out of roundness and taper. If the bore is out of wack to much, all the honing in the world won't fix it. Take it to a machine shop and have them check it.

The author and the book are fantastic, fast and excellent service, you'll enjoy and keep the book forever, like all of us do. Glen

when I put my shed in last year I had I believe 10 tons of stone delivered, My good friend brought his C141 FEL down to help level out. He crawled into the pile with the C141 but when he lifted the bucket the tractor couldn't get any traction in the loose stones. So I asked him to step aside and I used my 75 C120 with a 42" plow on and dove into the piles of stones. I had them leveled out in a little bit of no time. he then went in and removed the excess stones off the pad. I then used a mid mount grader blade to finish leveling out the pad. worked grate. eric j

The regulator/rectifiers on these Onans have a history of failing and they can be purchased on line for about $20. Not saying the R/R is the problem, but with their history of failure, I keep a new one on hand for insurance. There are many posts on here with information on the proper way to check the charging system . If you have a volt/ohm meter and a wiring diagram of your engine, we can lead you thru the process. There are many wiring connections that could cause a charging problem on these machines. Like stated above, first step is to ensure the battery is good and at full charge. Secondly, unplug and reconnect all electrical connectors, switches, R/R, and fuses . Many times these connections become corroded and don't make contact. The simple act of reconnecting cleans them enough to solve the problem. to the

Is he being "Knighted" or "Beheaded"?

I needed a way to store my mower decks and came up with this. I have a tractor with pallet forks to move it around. Wheels under it would work as well. I built the base out of 2x4's and 4x4's. Decks sit on 2x10's and I used 2x3's to locate the wheels. 2x4 uprights were put into notches cut into the 4x4's for added strength and held in with 3-1/2" lag bolts and construction adhesive. Decks are lowered into place then a ratchet strap holds it. I built mine to hold 2 48" decks and a 60" deck. 60" deck is in the middle due to it's extra weight. I will put the last 48" deck on in the late fall when I am done using it. The way the decks are held should not cause any paint damage. Cleat

"If you don't have the time to do it right, when will you find the time to do it over"? Good job going on there.

Probably the ground needs cleaned... light switch on, wiggle the hood around...see what happens.

The Front tires are gone, at least 1 of them, im thinking the ones you see on a regular tractor mite be fine, the 3 grooved ones ? Back tires dry rotted, but i forget what you told me to rub on them ? They may be filled the way the 1 wheel looks, a large area where the metal is lifting in layers, i'm worried, i wanna steam it, tried 5 bucks wasted at car wash today, it did ok, but hot water would have been better, the past owner really put the Lube to it, geeze its caked all over, the engine needs degreased bad too under carb, If i do remove oil bath, i will box it up & give all OEM parts to Alex my son, i will for sure be at Next Big Show & bring him along with me, I have all the parts for it, its like building the 6 million dollar man, We Have the Technology LOL ! But i have a Edge, I have Richard & all of Red Square to help me

That's the author's site you have there. It's a very good read. It covers the earliest history of Wheel Horse until the company was sold to American Motors in 1974. I'm also partial to it because I grew up near South Bend -- so it's a bit of the history of the area I grew up in, too.

I'm not sure if the rotating screen is the answer or not. The airflow through the screen tends to pull clippings onto it no matter what. I clearly recall the two Kohler-powered Wheel Horses that were used to mow the lawns and athletic fields at my school in the 1970s and 80s (Quite possibly where I got the beginnings of my affection...) and they always accumulated plenty of clippings on the screens -- in a nice spiral pattern. Oddly, of the tractors I've had them most experience over the years, the horizontal engines -- a John Deere 112 and my 520H, have had stationary grilles over the engine fan screen. (The JD's fixed mesh screen was kind of unique in its day.) The vertical engine ones -- an old Craftsman and a Bolens Suburban, both had rotating screens. They all accumulated clippings at about the same rate. At least with a fixed screen, you can stop and reach down to brush the screen off easily enough. The rotating screens are a bit less finger-friendly.

You need to measure at the very top, middle and bottom of the bore, NOT the bottom of where the rings ride, but the very bottom of the bore. This is done in an cross pattern, ie twice in each location to check for roundness or lack there of. A piston will "egg" shape the bore at the lowest point the piston rides over time. This causes piston slap and other issues you do not want. If the bore is out of spec anywhere, either in the roundness or bore diameter. The block will need to be bored oversize and the machine shop will tell you how much so you can order new piston head. They will then bore to match that piston head. This is the correct way of doing it. In order to bore, the block will need to be bare, ie no bearings or valves installed. So your are in for the full overhaul at this point. Inspecting and grinding valve seats, lapping them back in, new seals everywhere ect. Head inspection for flatness and if warped, it will need machined. Half assing an engine overhaul is ust a waste of money and will bite you in the backside pretty quickly. Since you do not completely understand what your doing, get the Kohler engine book for the K series, its not expensive and will walk you thru every step to properly overhaul one of these. From proper piston ring install(making sure the end gaps do not line up ect) to exactly how to measure that bore. even tells you to the tools to have on hand. P.S. I have 30 years experience in small engine work on both gas and small diesel. Mike Oh yeah, if done right, there is NEVER a need to do anything to the new piston rings. Rings are sized to common bore sizes, std(standard) and over size in several increments.

One of the few pieces of metal which was not found as scrap was the grill and headlamp surround. Nothing of suitable thickness to hand but the Showman came to the rescue and obtained some cut to width alloy from a contact of his. Thanks Chris. A jig was made up from a thick sheet of board and coach bolts. Allowance was made when fitting these bolts for the thickness of the metal, either side and top and bottom, so that the correct outside width and height was obtained. The alloy strip was clamped to the bolts and bent around in stages. Two of the lower bolts not yet fitted in the photo's. The front chassis cross member was made up from various metal and alloy pieces all bolted together and in turn to the chassis. As the front mounting bolts of the grill passed into a box section with no way of fitting nuts, a length of 1/4" stud was used instead which passed through the total width of the chassis leaving enough either side for nuts and washers. Cannot find photo's of this assembly at this stage.

I did but but that D200 with the FEL is big and has a turning radius similar to the Queen Mary. The C120 was faster and easier. Need to pick up a GT14 with a 3 point for the york rake .

For me it depends how hard the wind is blowing and the direction I'm mowing. Sometimes quite often and other times not at all. I am glad you are keeping an eye on it. Lots of guys don't and wonder why their Onans die a pre-mature death.

This is the author and a vender here at Red Square https://wheelhorsestory.com/home/8-straight-from-the-horse-s-mouth-the-wheel-horse-story.html Garry

Most of the high mileage motor oils have more ZDDP than their regular oils. That is a good thing because it is an anti-wear additive that the government wants out because it has a negative effect on catalytic converters. ZDDP has been used in motor oils for well over a half century. Using the "high mileage" designation lets the manufacturers get around the government edict........ for now.

@Rustyred I have to agree with @oliver2-44. He gave you very good, sound advice!

I have a 520 and I know what you are talking about with the clippings. I use my compressed air to blow the entire machine off after a mowing session.

to Yes, the "No Name" series came out in the early '70's and used numbers only to indicate the engine size. "Automatic" indicates the type of transmission. I may have the appropriate ignition switch for you. I will look in my barn later.

New guy here. 244 h. Yeah I know... verticle drive shaft.... Local Deere dealer sold me a 244 h for a couple hundred bucks. The transmission was jumpy. They didn't want to mess with it. i noticed the release used for pushing the tractor around was pretty stiff. Removed rear right wheel and found culprit. The release valve was was half way open. Simple turn with wrench fixed the problem. tractor can now sprint up my West Virginia yard.

The way he gets around he seems to be everywhere at the same time, wonder if he is related to Santa?

Thanks. It sure is. I measured for all the belts and hoses, that took a couple hours.

Here is the manual with wiring diagrams, happy hunting. With any electrical problem I have always found that cleaning and tightening all electrical connections will cure most of them.

Oil burning and loss of power is not a mater of averages, it is a mater of weakest link causes problems! @artfull dodger is right on. take some time and read and heed this thread. This manual should help too. Kohler_Guide_To_Engine_Rebuilding_19890900.pdf

After I modified the rear section belt guard I made a mounting tab that utilizes the existing hole on the transmission mounting plate brace. The hydraulic foot pedal linkage had to be reworked also to clear the front section belt guard. Not much progress to look at but a lot of work and better end results.

Cheater!!! You supposed to strap that motor to your back!

He needs to carefull. She's getting on a bit now and her hands are a little unsteady.

Jim I wouldn't waste the money. If you got over there, no one would be able to find you and your suspenders would clash with Alan's.

Show doesn't start until Wed. But I got up there to stake out my spot not knowing the rain situation tomorrow. Garden tractor feature this year!!!! Feature area starting to get some exibits: Steamers: Nice Allis IH Orchard 40 Flea Market starting to fill up

I use a ball hone to break the glaze and put a nice cross-hatch on the cylinder. A smoothe cylinder will burn oil.

I use the " High Mileage " Mobil 1 INSTEAD of the regular in all my hydros.

This PDF has all the numbers you will ever need. 1-6&8 speed UNI DRIVE TRANS.pdf

Have a local Napa store? They supply SKF seals which used to be Chicago Rawhide and use the same numbering system. Garry

I need to do a few odds and ends like brackets and belt guide tabs but the belt guard is almost ready for tear down and paint.

All set up. Waiting for the show to begin!