Leaderboard

I needed a way to store my mower decks and came up with this. I have a tractor with pallet forks to move it around. Wheels under it would work as well. I built the base out of 2x4's and 4x4's. Decks sit on 2x10's and I used 2x3's to locate the wheels. 2x4 uprights were put into notches cut into the 4x4's for added strength and held in with 3-1/2" lag bolts and construction adhesive. Decks are lowered into place then a ratchet strap holds it. I built mine to hold 2 48" decks and a 60" deck. 60" deck is in the middle due to it's extra weight. I will put the last 48" deck on in the late fall when I am done using it. The way the decks are held should not cause any paint damage. Cleat

Now, this is a work tractor, not a show tractor. But Wheelhorse aren't box store junk and never were. I take pride in my equipment and trucks, none of which were bought new but I've always bought for quality and good equipment holds up that's why I bought my 3/12. Was a little dirty and dusty so today I decided to give it a late summer cleanup. Wash, scrub, polishing compound and a coat of wax. I washed and dried it then rubbed some mothers step 1 on it then johnsons paste wax per suggestion on the site. That's a blast from the past, my nana used that on everything! Im happy with the results. Still has some scratches but I'm ok with them. I got this tractor a little over a year ago from the original owner's son. I still am impressed with not only the craftsmanship but the performance and the mowing quality is as good or better than any commercial walkbehind I've ever run.

Not sure if this is the right place for this topic, but got a vinyl cover today. Not a great fit for the C-105, but can't go wrong for $5.

I wouldn't be at all concerned about it. Any oil you buy today is equal to or superior to the oil it had in it when it left the factory.

Picked up my model 400 today from Larry down in Marengo Ohio. Spotted it a month ago when I got my model 401 from him. Wanted the 400 as it was built same year as I was born! So when somebody was buying this tractor, I had just come home from the hospital! He went though it and rebuilt the tranny, replaced fuel tank straps, reworked stering, refinished rims, and a new set of throttle controls that he manufactures. I am going to use the K91 that is coming off my 551 (wrong engine) as I have a Lauson/Tecumseh H55 to go on the 551.The 401 is going to stay in original work clothes, but this one will get a complete refinish. Also picked up my new WH hauler down in Athens Ohio, and the 400 had the pleasure of being the first WH transported on it. Trailer is a 2017 Diamond C, 7' × 14' tandem axle with a bifold gate. Of course it is bright red to match the tractors! Just have to paint the black rims almond to get the look just right.

Driving to Athens Ohio tomorrow (3.5hrs) to pick up my new trailer to haul the tractors around on. My little 5'×10' Carry On is just too small and flexes too much. Picking up a new Diamond C, 7'×14' tandem axle utility trailer. Painted a nice bright red! Has black rims, so guess I will have to paint them the same as the tractor rims. Little more than I wanted to spend, but the extra $500 gets me a much sturdier trailer than getting another Carry On brand tandem, plus I get a bunch of adds on including the bifold gate and a PPG automotive paint finish.

Only picture we took was of Ken's Gold Wing Honda and Trailer (which he hauled the 7 HP Kohler in). Plus in addition to Roger Parmley, Zach Edwardson and D.J. Harrison and Ken Smith visisting today, two more wheel horse guys Russell and Nick Toney from Avon came to the house. A real Wheel Horse meet and Greet Day!

My good friend @Lane Ranger had picked up an engine for me from @Lane Huls a week ago. I rode my motorcycle to Lanes today to pick up the engine and got to visit with a couple more fellow WH collectors, namely Roger Parmley, D.J Harrison, and Zach Edwardson. Very nice (250 mile) ride, nice visit with the guys, and a very nice lunch with Lane at WASSERS a micro-brewery in Greencastle.

Yes, I know, but this one is better!

Some Videos of the Above plow day with GhostRider.... This is my Cousin on his Ingy 3018. He took the above videos with me and is definitely a "plow dog" like I am!

I have felt that the Honda push mower muffler set up on my little 6.5hp Yanmar diesel was a bit restrictive. Most folks know that a diesel needs to "breath" to work at its best, both on intake and exhaust side of things. So, at the Portland, IN swap meet, I found this lagged muffler at a vintage Briggs & Stratton parts booth. Picked it up for $25. I shortened up the input pipe and welded up a flanged input set up(Yes I know my bead laying still isn't best, but it holds and seals!). I also made a support mount at the front of the muffler barrel to support the weight. The main barrel is lagged with an outer wrapper, so this helps with heat and the paint/decals above it. The output faces forward, out and down. So I do not get as much fumes as I was with the the original set up I made up. Also a bit quieter as with the original set up, I could tell by the sound of the exhaust, the engine was working against some backpressure due to the smal muffler. I also have a clear lense Tomar Microstrobe to replace the low intensity strobe on the fender now. Still have to mount it up. Mike the Aspie

Some folks go with 26x12-12 but those are a lot bigger and require a 10" wide rim and may require fender mods. Below is a pic of my C-161 with the 10.5" Carlyles. They are pretty big compared to the original 8.5's also shown. The 10.5's are on 8.5" wide rims. The 8.5" tires are on stock 7" wide rims.

Here are the diffrences from a 516-518.

Batten down the hatches.

Dad's making progress on Clyde's seat. It was functional but that was about it. Dad doesn't care to do anything halfway. Now, before you send me links to reproduction seats, dad said that he would rather make his own saddle... Here's what he started with! He picked up foam and a marine grade black vinyl material. Cut the furniture plywood to size and shape. Then covered it in that awesome heavy duty vinyl! I thought the thumb tacks were a functional and cool touch. Seat base coming up!

Menards sells spray cans of rustoleum and they have a good selection. It is on sale and you also get a 11% rebate that you can use on a future purchase. I like it because the 2x covers well and dries fast and hard. In other words, it would be almost impossible to get a run if you have any experience at all. You can spray it and sand it down for another coat in as few as 8 hours. Let's say that you want to get some paint and shine on some wheels quickly. You can put on the color coat and then put on the clear shine coat before the color coat fully cures. Again, try it on a small part to see how it goes for you. BTW, the 2x coating sticks to plastic and is UV stable. I actually spoke with some Rustoleum engineers and they stated that their clear is compatible with painting over color coat once it has flashed off. I really like the concept of clear coat, i would suggest that you try sanding down with 600 and the 1200 paper the underside of your seat pan or some out of the way place. Paint it with clear and watch the colors POP [I take it one step further with 2000, but that might not be for everyone] This picture shows a really rough seat pan that I tried just for fun. The picture does not begin to show the results and depth of shine With decent paint to start with, the results would be amazing. https://www.menards.com/main/search.html?search=rustoleum+2x+gloss+clear $2.63 for a can of this stuff [after rebate] is amazing

Happy Birthday Tom, we are all glad you were born!

Actually i used somthing else on the black parts. Long time ago got a tip on what to use to restore sun faded chainsaw plastics (engine top covers recoils). Simple and safe on all surfaces I've used it on. 50/50 mix boiled linseed oil and paint thinner. 10x better than any trim restore product I've ever used. And used on plasic, painted steel and aluminum.

Do you have this module? Click on the pictures. Have been many reports of this unit failing resulting in a constant on light. Yours is different. Maybe the wiring connects could use a cleanup and a coating of dielectric silicone grease to preserve them. Garry

Dad finished the "saddle" for Clyde today! I think it really turned out nice... Now he's gonna do a little body work on the metal under the seat base and paint it mainly for protection.

As Mr Sutton has not yet put the other video's on utube, ( he must be extra busy hiding his latest haul of firewood ) the next stage was to make up the side panels. First were the chassis extensions. These were made 5/8" deeper than the chassis box section, to give scale depth, with an extra 1/2" added top and bottom for folding over. The bottom fold was to give extra strength and also to help stop the skin of my hands from being attacked by what would have been a sharp edge while constantly reaching under during the build. This can be seen on the photo's. A right angle bend followed by tapping over then finished by flattening in the brake press. This brake press, with a capacity of about 24" was found by Chris during the clear out at friend John's place. He also finds things which are not RED. Old but effective especially with the 1mm approx alloy sheet used for the panels. These panels were, we think, either from old buses or maintenance vehicles. John had a friend who worked for a local bus company. These were large panels with the remains of paint and lettering, some with cut outs which could have been vents. Whatever they were they were recycled and put to good use. The chassis side extensions were followed by the wider upper panels, two long next with the shorter top two having a slightly angled rear edge. These top two, marked out and bent up as a pair, overlap the lower ones like the full size and are folded over at the rear. All shown just loosely fitted along with the upper rear panel.

I have a c-120 with a 42 RD deck, and it eats pretty much everything. In fact it is the only deck I can use when the grass is not absolutely dry. I love it, and it goes thru 3-4 inches of really thick and heavy grass like peace of cake. May I suggest switching decks around, then you know if it's the 14hp engine that has some issues. For reference, today i cut a walking path in a wheat field, next to some scrub and berry bushes, so the kids could go pick berries. That was with medium raised deck, full speed in 3 gear. Didn't bog down a bit. Is the deck clean on the inside. If it is stuffed up with wet clippings, it will get hard for it to work. And as the chef says. Keep your knife sharp! just my

Ok, all cleaned up and back together. Man that's a lot of tin and bolts around that Kohler. Now, on to the 48"deck. It needs a tensioner idler pulley and a clean up.

I sent my header out yesterday to be ceramic coated and my air intake adapter came in. Also I painted my steering wheel and battery hold downs. Should look like this.

I switched over to a rear discharge a couple of years ago and am very happy with it. In very tall grass I have to go to first gear and only do a half pass at a time, but that was true of the side discharge too.

They sit fine on top of the bars and bite like mad . In gravel , the harder the tractor pulls the harder they dig for traction and will leave some marks . Be very careful on seal coated asphalt - the chains will tear it up . Sarge

1 of my '95 520s it work, or my '97 (by serial number) Anniversary after a rub down, or blowing snow, Jeff.

Just a reminder. There is a hump in the bottom of the transmission case so raise the front of the tractor so the oil at the front can get to the drain at the rear. I also jack the left rear and then the right rear to allow oil to drain from the axle housings. May as well get it out also. The best place to add oil is the shifter hole before it is reinstalled. Garry

I like my deestones. 23"x10.50" on 8.5" wheels

Happy birthday!!!!

Shhhhhhhhhhhh, look at them worn out Cowboy boots, just like the owner, full of holes

I would check the clutch on the 414-8 for slippage I believe that is your problem not the deck.

Beautiful patina on the new there... I'm gonna really hate to see it go.

Just wondering, Some of you know i have a 516H, whats different about the 518 other then 2hp diff ? Is it the same Hydro unit ? Bigger tires, just curious, had a call today from a Man who wants to unload a 518H, was his Dad's but he passed away, i told him i have my money tied up in braces for 2 kids at moment, he said he would hold it LOL, if it wasnt for the braces id have 4 to 5 more by sunday afternoon in my son's stable, here is my Son's 516H again, i know 953 & others like Pics

Nice score on the 400. Breaking in the new trailer real easy I see...no stress test with that machine Mike....

Give these guys a call ... one stop shop.

Aldon, Very nice. Great innovation and superb execution. Even though you are parking a much large hp engine in the beast, since its an OHV it should be much more efficient fuel wise than a single cylinder flat head Kohler of less displacement and power. My 16 hp K341 on my GT 14 is a pretty thirsty critter. Burns 3-3 1/2 gallons for about 1 1/2 hours of mostly full throttle running when I'm mowing. If you end up needing more capacity down the road, I'm sure you can come up with an auxiliary tank setup to stick somewhere. Looks like you would still have some room behind the cast grill to add a couple more gallon tank.

That video is fine , but be cautious about using that much force on a lot of parts - many castings will snap a corner off easily . A simple ball peen with a small head and small diameter tapered ball end will do nearly any bolt hole more than enough to see the line by just rubbing the hammer across the edges . On bolt holes , I just push down on the tapered ball end and swing the handle back and forth to imprint the shape . A cheap set of hole punches works excellent for nice , crisp holes - it all depends on how much the openings have a radius cut in them . Same with outside/inside edges on larger shapes - you can rub the flatter end of the hammer across those edges and it will easily imprint the shape on the material without the risk of breaking a part . Sarge

Here's the original for your tractor. Here's the style of tiller you have. You can see that it's a straight forward conversion. The belt drive set-up on the newer style is much better than the old 2 belt set-up.

Might have better luck listing this in the classifieds. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/classifieds/trade/

Thank You. We're about 230 miles Nort of there. We expect rain but not the high total forecast for the coast.

You can use the same type regulator rectifier that is on a Magnum, the mounting will be different. You can find them on Ebay at a reasonable price. Before you buy one check your grounds. A bad ground can cause the voltage to be up. Partstree list the same type as yours but at $193 I don't think you will want one.

Well i took a couple of hours nap in preparation for going in to work at 10 tonight. We're staffing the dams I work at in case we get heavy rains from hurricane Harvey. I suspect we really won,t see much rain until tomorrow daytime. But that means the Saturday night shift could be busy. We're fare enough from the coast that we won't have the very high winds or heaviest rains, but even 5 inches of fast rain in our rocky Texas Hill country can be a flash flood. So I've got a few hours to work on this tranny.. With everything back apart I filed and polished the burs back off the ends of the axle tubes.with the heavy ridge I found on the bottom (left) axle tube and rubbing on the axle tube where it fits in the diff . I think the diff was binding on the axle tube. i suspect that why the diff gear teeth are showing the wear - the pinion is having to work to push the diff teeth. So, I reassembled the case, differential and side plates (no other gears). It all rotates freely with the bottom side plate tight, and the top side plate bolts barely snug. But, when I begin to tighten the top side plate bolts up more both axles tighten up. I can just barely turn then by hand with all the grip I've got. I'm going to make a 2nd gasket for the top side plate to see if that changes anything. If it doesn't I'll hone the axle bushings a little more. Before i put the top plate on I checked the clearance between the top side of the diff and the case height. its only about 0.007 ths. Thais tighter that I thought it would be,, but when you think about it, there's nothing but the axle side plates centering the diff in the case.

With the help of the folks on Red Square I got my 68 Raider 12 running again. But I never figured that the guys would send a QA Inspector to evaluate my work

Welcome to Red Square Check with one of the vendors here...Like A To Z Tractor for a good used shifter. The muddy fluid is most likely due to water getting in..or several years of condensation build up. Drain it..jack up the front of the tractor to fully drain it. Put a couple quarts of diesel or kerosene in run it around for 5-10 minutes drain again and refill with GO 90 (90 weight gear oil for the non military type)

Its been a long time since i posted any updates on the restoration and lots had happened since the last! The rust from the chassis has been completely removed Next i filled as many pits as I could, its not perfect but its better. Next to look at was the wheels, I knew they weren't in a great shape but they were worse than I expected. They were full of holes, replacing them isn't really an option as the narrow rims are rare in the UK, we opted to weld the holes and then I used lots of filler. They are a lot better than they were. The steering wheel was missing so I found one for a cub cadet on the auction site in the US, got it shipped here and now i've repaired it and modified it to fit. Another thing that was missing from the RJ was the brake band, We had a cast pulley lying around that was a near exact match to the original casting. It had the same bore and keyway as the original and so I turned it down to the correct dimensions. Before and after