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Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/24/2017 in all areas
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8 pointsheres my lazy solution - not broken a hub yet, but had to change bottle jack to a 6 ton one
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7 points
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5 pointsmy father in law past away 2 yrs ago was over there today and one of his old buddies stop by and we were trying to start the JD B but seems the mag no good and my mother in law told me that theses tractors are now mine .at the moment i have no where to store them so they will stay there for now the one is a 1937 JD B unstyled and the other is a 1938 JD L unstyled they both been sitting for about 20 yrs. the L will start and run but the B wont. my father in laws buddy wants me to get the B running for this fall a local club here has a plow day this fall and wants me to bring the B and plow. was looking on tractor data .com and this B is only rated at 12 horse at the draw bar hell that is what my wheel horse is but the B probably has a lot more torque to it. he says it will pull a 2 14" bottom plow the one picture is his old butt buggy he made to get around at the shows it is a choremaster i had to get it out and make a couple laps around the house he has a straight pipe no muffler and it is a little loud.
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5 pointsA few photo's from Rural Past Times. Home for the weekend. Not the luxury caravan. The little green tent. My Sears/Roper flexing it's muscles. Friday afternoon. Saturday. Fergie The Wonder Dog. Mini D and man with BRACES. Suspenders has a different meaning over here. Basil and Courtney on guard duty. Chris testing a towing attachment. Poor Bolens couldn't stand the pace. Various Bolens needed attention over the weekend. Sheepherds Hut with all mod cons. Sunday. Man Cave. Thresher. Fergie with reaper/binder. One way to pull a bird. Arena Parade. A very nice Ford. Finally My C-81 and finger bar got second in the horticultural class.
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5 pointsI think I can solve the problem Jay. 1. mow for 29 minutes 2. take a 30 minute break and have a cold beverage 3. repeat steps 1. & 2. till mowing is finished.
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5 points
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4 pointsI think I would start with the easy things first. Check the gas cap for vents pluged. After it stops running spray gas in carb to see if it runs if it does its gas related. I'm not much good on the M series yet. Sorry I couldn't be more help. The 30 min thing tell me pluged gas cap or fuel starvation.
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4 pointsI have a '88 416-8, which has the M16 Kohler. It has over 3600 hours on this machine, and it still runs good. The M16 Kohlers are great engines, and as mentioned, the 8 speed transmissions are bullet proof.
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4 pointsI have an 85 and an 88 416-8 and I love both of these machines. The 87 will have the Kohler Magnum engine...I believe the Onan was first installed in 89. I prefer the Kohlers as well. These are strong and reliable machines. I have had no major issues with either 416. I've only had to deal with some relatively simple electrical issues relating to loose wires and a bad safety switch. Otherwise just routine maintenance. I would buy it at that price with those attachments...doesn't hurt to haggle down the price though. I think the attachments are worth nearly what he is asking for.
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4 pointsYeah, not bad Eric. They sold it as a non runner and 5 minutes after I bought it, I had it running and drove it on the trailer. It smokes a little on start up but then runs smooth and clean. I'll chain it to a tree and check the Eaton tomorrow. I coulda filled the trailer with those little TROY -BILT ponies and broncos. They sold for $100 to $350. The big JD zero was $2800. The Craftsmans $300.
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4 pointsStarted repairs on my tranny tonight. One thing that I noticed was that my axle tubes were not square with the side plates. I'm guessing that the 23x10.50x12 tires may have contributed to this issue. The weld on the left tube was even cracked. After pulling the tubes back into place I welded in some gussets to keep this from happening again. I was able to get my new axles made also. Instead of cutting them for half moon keys, I cut straight key ways in them. The sprocket end is cut as a pocket, the hub end will take a 2" long key. Some parts showed up in the mail today too so I'm hoping to assemble real soon.
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3 pointsOK, the Eaton passed the pull test spinning both wheels while chained to the tree. She runs strong with no smoke. It's a KEEPER. So I stripped her down for a good washing. I was really surprised at how clean the smooth aluminum heads were compared to the rough cast iron block fins.
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3 pointsCould be a something broke loose in fuel pump to, found a piece of rubber on the 414-8, blocking the hole I have 2 old school Fuel pumps if you need any ? Free, i'm not looking for any thing, also have a Walbro Carb off a C120, asked ericj if he needed a carb, said not really, rebuilt too, Free
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3 pointsWill be 1985 tractor model 31-17K801 or 1986 model 31-17K802 Both used the 110995 model transmission. This file has a list of tractors that used the 110995 but there are other transmission models that used 8 pinion gears and 1-1/8" axles. Search the manuals using "6 forward speeds" in quotes for more. Looks like I can't make the link stick. Will try later. Garry
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3 pointsNot possible to rush a 'Work of Art' . Excellent project and Thread Rex. Lookin' the Dogz ***** (or is that CAT). You should be safe on here if it's not Green and Yeller
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3 pointsI guess that's what I get for making an assumption. I would have thought that the outer case acted as the ground and the hot wire went on the terminal. Hooked the wires to the CORRECT spot. No sparks and she turned over Put the gas tank back on and installed a new set of points. A couple of coughs and sputters and she took off running!!!! Guess I didn't "smoke check" the coil after all So a BIG THANK YOU to all of you for all the help. You guys are GREAT!!! Bob
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3 pointsLooking at the your picture of the switch, you have the ground for the cig lighter connected to what looks like a hot wire on your switch. That would SPARK! Dang Rich, My wife made me watch a video as I was typing and you beat me to it!
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3 pointsThe black wire going to the cigarette lighter is your problem! The wire would go to the center stud, you have it hooked to the ground.
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3 pointsI've done it many times - in fact I make most of my gaskets. One thing that helped me get doing this was when trying to find a gasket to look it up and read "NLA" (no longer available) Which is becoming more and more common seems for our horses...
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3 pointsI found a disc at a yard sale. looks good on back of my 701. but it is not a wheel horse disc. i have no idea what brand it is
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3 points
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3 points
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3 pointsEd You mean Crapmans. Not Craftsmans back in the 70/early 80s they did make an OK tractor. But today like every thing else Junk.
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3 points
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3 pointsYou might want to add the hitch pin that goes through the transmission rear-end housing!
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2 pointsI, too just jumped on the D-250 bandwagon lol. I say bandwagon but from the first time i laid eyes on one at the show in PA some years back, 12 year old me swore that i would own one before i die lol. So here i am with a $600 non running D-250 as well. No regrets either. If it takes work, time and money, then so be it. Plus it was right in my hometown here. No cross country venturing for this hoss
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2 pointsThe coil is known for that. I had a car that did that and the coil would get hot and cut out. Also the condenser does the same thing.
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2 pointsHow can You tell which mower decks fit the various WH tractors by the model numbers? Is there a list somewhere? I was reading something On Implements and attachments titled "which deck" in which Bertie seems to know. Still learning, Mal
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2 pointsStudy it for a while you will come up with something like this one for a 48" side discharge mower deck DNA 75-48MS01 replaces RL-486, 5-1481, 5-1482, 5-1483, 5-1200, 5-1201, 5-1202, 5-1210, 5-1211, 65-48MS01, 65-48MS02 75-48MS01 replaced by 75-48MS02, 85-48MS01, 95-48MS00, 95-48MS01, 05-48MS01, 05-48MS02, 05-48MS03, 05-48MS04, 05-48MS05, 05-48SC01, 15-48SC01, 15-48SC02, 15-48SC03, 78360, 78361 Garry
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2 pointsThanks Paul. That's me with the suspenders / braces. Never been called a gentleman before. Usually something less complimentary or unprintable.
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2 pointsOne picture with the gentleman wearing braces (suspenders) and a belt...Old saying over here...Never argue with a man who wears a belt and suspenders.
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2 pointsI am not aware of any inherent problems with the M engines although I prefer the Ks and the 8 speeds are nearly bullet proof. It is impossible to evaluate a unit w/o pictures, but if I could not see it run and drive, I would be very cautious. It does have some nice implements if they are in good condition. plow/ dozer sell for $120 $150 Grader $ 200 42" deck $250 Wheel horse cart $150 May be an OK deal, but I have a problem paying $750 for a non-runner.
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2 points1987 416-8 has a single cylinder M16 Kohler engine. Posting this because I can never remember when they used a twin cylinder Onan and sure others do the same. I would prefer to have the Kohler. Garry
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2 pointsThere are companies such as Echo in Chicago that handle LTL shipments inside the US on a bid bases. You would need the tractor palletized, strapped and wrapped to protect it and it could be handled in the freight terminals. Also, the weight and dimensions. You let them know where it's going and they send request out to truckers needed another pallet to that destination. They then would send you the quote. You would need to look up the freight class for the trucker and the harmonized code for exporting/importing. You should be able to look these up on line. I would make sure it was well secured before shipping it anywhere! A local company that ships LTL could help you with this for a reasonable fee and it would be all set for the container as well. Do not have a trucking company prepare the skid. You'll be disappointed!
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2 pointsVolt meter under load is better. If there is a problem in a switch it could check good with the light amperage of a meter but fail due to internal resistance when supplying a load.
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2 pointsThis is probably not the problem, but I am a guy who weird stuff happens to, so here goes.. I was having a wiring issue with a motorcycle and finally tested the ign. switch and it tested bad. I R&R'd it and then there were still problems. The brand new aftermarket switch was bad, and that is not something you would normally test for. I sure could have saved some time if i tested mine. In today's world with global sourcing, you get what you get. I got a C-141 not long ago with very similar starting problems to yours. It was stored inside and the switch appeared sound. !2 volts to the coil and all that. I did the lay the spark plug on the block and saw a spark or two.I then put it back in and hooked up a spark indicator and only got one flash at the start of cranking and one flash when I stopped cranking I clipped the volt meter to the coil, and with the key on it was 12 volts , but while cranking, it was zero volts. Replaced switch and got her to fire and run You might as well check your switch with a continuity tester to make sure With the switch at ign, you should have power at all but the start position. With the switch at start, you should have power at all the lugs. Some switches might shut down the lighting circuit,during starting, but that could vary
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2 pointsBird is slang for an attractive girl/woman. Pulling a bird means picking one up. The crawlers are Ransomes. Horticultural tractors. They can be fitted with all types of implements.
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2 pointsWell--I don't have a picture of this yet, but dad is already at work building a new seat base, cushion, and material for Clyde. He purchased a marine grade black product and new foam. I supplied him with furniture grade 3/4" plywood that I had left over from another project that he will use for the structure. We noticed that the seat pan sitting right on the fender pan is a combo that promotes rust. Dad is planning to put a couple of oak spacers attached to the bottom of the seat which will allow for airflow. He has already asked me about AG tires and so I'm guessing that he will pick up a set in his next trek through OH past Miller tire and save the shipping! If you look closely in he above pic you will see the back edge of a plow on Clyde. Dad purchased that from a forum member a couple of years ago. We are going to set it up for using with Clyde. I can't wait to get this thing plowing! I know it will take some tweaking to get all the kinks out and science out anything to make it a better plow tractor. My feeling is, if we manage to break stuff, we will build it stronger. If it is tough enough as is, we will keep it going! Eventually I'll put a wanted ad for a snow blade. Dad said he'd indeed like to have one for pushing the smaller/wet snows that don't feed well in his blower. I'll have pics soon!
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2 points
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2 pointsI tried lithium ion batteries and did not have good luck with them.This is the battery I'll likely go with which I have been satisfied with except color. I simply used black plasticote:
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2 pointsOh Boy!!! those da** hubs!! they and steering wheels are the bane of us horse lovers! I got disgusted and got on the mill and lathe and with a piece of 5/8" metal plate and a 3/4" bolt I made a puller to match the 5 holes --- even then with my big 3/4" impact driver with 130psi hammering it took some 10-12 min just creeping off. So, like the fellas said get a much better puller, that cast iron is somewhat brittle and it WILL break.
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2 pointsNope the other way around. It should be N/C (normally closed) when oil level is correct. You need 12 volts through the sensor to trip the switching relay.
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2 points
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2 pointsYou better stop now before you break a hub. You need equal pressure around the hub (all 5 lug bolt holes) like this:
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2 pointssounds like it was a typical mid week birthday as an adult! The excitement can sometimes get misplaced at about 25years old! However, another day breathing is one more on "the right side of the dirt!" Good luck on your classes!
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1 pointI think the writer of the service bulletin is wrong. When an electrical device is identified as Normally Open that switching device will be open when setting on the shelf with no external energy or pressure applied. As @Rob XC700 pointed out the oil switch must be closed to energize the start relay and it would be ridiculous to only be able to start the engine if the oil was drained. The switch is a float type switch and must be normally open (setting on the shelf with no pressure applied) so that it will close when oil is added allowing the start relay to be energized to start the engine.
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1 point
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1 pointI will look further into the manual, one place claimed theirs are true reproductions and the pages are clear and crisp. I also seen an original that looked a bit tattered.
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1 pointWix # 51374 or Napa 1374 ( which is made by Wix. or Baldwin BT223 Both are around 3 1/2" long.
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1 pointI've been hunting one of those service procedure manuals for quite awhile - found an old auction listing while doing a search for the exact same book . They just don't seem to come up often and we really need a digital scan of one here....lot of D's coming out of the woods lately . Sarge