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Enjoy the little things in life!

Dad was certainly surprised! He had no clue that we had gotten him the tractor. He really seems to like it--sorry to all those who called dibs. I showed him all your comments and he got a kick out of them. Happy 65th dad! Surrounded by the grandkids opening the typical gifts. Dad read the note before pulling off the tarp. Thanks to uncle Roger for bringing it up secretly into the garage while we were eating supper! Looking it over with great surprise! He likes it! Thanks to all who contributed to make this a reality. I'll be posting a video link here soon. I'll Also be sure to keep updating as we do odds and ends to it like AG'S, seat work, paint the rear rims,etc Then he took Zachary for a ride just like he did with me on the 875 over 35 years ago! I love the legacy...

I am in the process of replacing the plastic seat pan on my '82 C195 Wheel Horse. I am using the fiber glass replacement seat pan sold by Adams94. Its a really nice fit. I believe a small spacer will be needed under the seat pan to bolt the seat pan to the tractor. Yes I plan to paint wheel horse red. Edwroy

Hi everyone just bought myself an a-81, never had one before and want it to be my project. Want to like new. Seen one on YouTube with led lights on and a nice exhaust induction kit. The exhaust on it is knackered so defiantly needs a new one. It runs great and cuts well. Also is it an easy task to take the mower deck off bottom ? Also how can I tell what year it is? Many thanks Matt

Picked this up this morning...my 3rd C175. 01-17K803 1982. Should have had a KT17 Spec #24200 (series1) The motor on there is a Series 2 Spec 24336. The gray paint suggested this was a service engine, but that Spec number is assigned to WH per the Kohler web site. I looked through the all years WH listing and there is no 24336. I am wondering if there were so many KT17 failures that WH bought a batch of Series 2 for dealers to use as replacements????

Heard 10 different ways to keep the finish.....Pshaw......I gave her a good degreasing, blew it off with compressed air and greased all the zerts.....hit it with a good coat of Trim Shine and I'm done.

Mike is right Matt. You'll need more than a hammer to put your horse back to perfect condition. Basic tool kit = 1 hammer+1 screw driver+1 adjustable wrench+1 vice grip to serve as a throttle lock.

Some job training landed me in Baraboo Wisconsin for the week. Just so happens the Badger Steam and Gas show was on. What an awesome show. Very impressed and highly recommended. Low on Wheel Horse, but high on fun.

Made up this shop sign, gonna find a place to hang it up tommorrow.

Waiting on an engine mounting plate and a couple other odds and ends. But decided to trim some fenders and fit to see if I could get by with stock fender vs total customs to clear the rear tires. While it's close, I believe it will suffice for my needs.

I used to work with one of those too. Problem was it never went back together. If he couldn't fix it with a hammer, well it wasn't fixed!

Remove the set screws from the hub. If they are socket head set screws, be aware some mechanics stack the screws to act as a lock. Remove the hub with a puller. Most use another hub or a custom made puller using all 5 of the hub bolts. If you use a 2-3 jaw puller, you risk breaking the flange on the cast iron hub. Do not beat on it with a hammer.....there is a snap ring on the other end of the axle inside the transmission that you could damage. Deburr and file smooth any rough spots on the axle so the hub slides back on easily. This will ensure the new seal will also slide on w/o damage. Some also wrap the keyway with mylar or shipping tape to help guide the seal lip over the keyway. The old seal can be removed with a seal removal pick. Please check the axle bearings first. Most seal failures are caused by a bad axle bearing. Up to 1/8" Axial (in and out) movement of the shaft is OK. A 1/16 radial (up and down) movement indicates the bearing is worn and probably exceeding the seal limits causing it to leak.

1 week to go on the old job. This is for @WHX12 & @ACman ! 90 + degrees today with the dewpoint over 70! we had a big power outage in the morning and even the transfer switch breakers tripped so even some of the emergency power didn't happen. Took a few hours to get it all back up and running. Enjoy the short videos. Be sure to wear hearing protection! TecoChiller 150 ton natural gas chiller powered by a 454 Chevy marine engine: McQuay 350 centrifiugal chiller. Trane 350 ton absorption chiller with 2 Cleaver Brooks boilers feeding steam: Music to my ears! Trane 200 ton RTAA Roof chiller: Old Tank: Trane RAUD 100 ton chiller: @stevasaurus Here's a pic of the thermometer near the donut table in the boiler room!

I wanted to say hello, i just picked up my first WH, it's a charger 12, i don't know much about them, it looks like this will be the place to learn about them, lots of reading. The model number is 17231 can someone help me out putting a year to this number? what i would really like to do with this is to get a hold of everything you can put on it (all the toys). i know, tall order but you need goals.. Right? well off to do some reading, thanks to the admin for hosting a great site.

I've been watching these 2 horses on our local CL for a couple weeks.Fella had them listed in separate ads.I made a package deal price and got them last night.One is a C-195 that will run only on ether.Has a 48 in SD mower deck and a single stage snowblower with correct lift tube.Not sure if a C-195 ever had a single stage blower,but it was included.Other tractor is a C-105 8 speed that supposedly has a broken connecting rod.Has a poorly patched mower deck.I didn't need these tractors.......I wanted them.I'll check out the fuel delivery problem on the C-195 and probably consider some kind of interesting re-power on the C-105.Enjoy the pics.

HELLO everyone, I'm new to this site and have been an avid collector for the C series in particular. My grand father got me hooked as young boy. He had a miss labeled C120 I always thought it was a C121 automatic. Anyways I'm sure you've all heard of Lane Ranger. I want to thank him for selling me a C121 8speed. Fantastic piece of red beauty. And as a plus has an early 90's 36" tiller. I've been looking for about 6 years now for this tractor and couldn't thank him enough. Also I was curious if the Evansville show has come and gone? Or when the 2018 show might be. Thanks

Go to eBay and search for item 351766615184

I use import carbs that I purchase off eBay, but I am very careful to only use those which have the correct choke lever and use SAE hardware. A good eBay seller is "cfamily10". For OEM carbs, I would suggest any of the reputable online sellers such as Jack's Small Engine or OPE Engines.

Seems your secret is out Big Fred... well...umm...at least, this one is.

Heck there's nothing wrong with that ... use that Fred charm and talk him down . You know pull the grandkids card or a little persuasion if you know what I mean .

If you smear Vaseline on the lens, it makes the image all soft and fuzzy and romantic!

Saw this in my daily CL blast this AM and just thought it interesting & as the ad says check this out! The write up Electric riding mower, WheelHorse model A-60E rear engine rider. Collector item in working condition. Runs, drives, mows and has been used regularly. 36v system uses 3 standard marine batteries. Includes spare 36v motor. Whether you what to minimize your carbon footprint or just like cool stuff, check this out. The pics This would probably make a nice ride around for the Mrs. at tractor shows but the thought of 3 batts @ 100 apiece kinda scares me off. He was asking 200 but might be talked down.

My auto-darkening hood does not work. Tried it today. Looked at the sun and it did nothing.

Welcome to the forum Garry

Should be an ID plate on it with the long model number and serial number. This list includes all of them plus a few other 81 numbers. http://www.partstree.com/parts/search/models/?searchTerm=toro+a-81 If you can not find it post all the numbers off the engine plate and will try to identify that way. Garry

Looked the spec number up in the parts manual. That is the only Series 2 spec that has #97 for a crankcase variant...and 97 is the only one that uses a roller thrust bearing...Sounds like something Wheel Horse would have ordered.

Pure meaness there.

Since I want this thread to be a reference for GT14's in general I figured I'd post my days work in repairing a couple GT14 parking pawls that I'll store for potential needs later. I think pictures are self explanatory. Weld, clean up and paint.

I didn't care for the Blackhoods when I first saw them but my mind has certainly changed over time... great score

A 1045 Big Block short frame square hood with round fenders ? Here's a pic of @Amcwheel85's tractor. Yes that a great one too but they all have there special place .

I will fix that old horse

Hey, i still have a Tube of Brill Cream in my Medicine Cabinet , Roll my pant Legs up, id pass for Sha naw naw LOL, Greaser And i deserved that Ed hahaha, i owe you dinner at Texas Road house, heck ya all can come

@PeacemakerJack the tractor actually came from a trade from Lowell, I remember pulling the head, as I always do with a new to me tractor, and found a big ding inside the cylinder wall. I was going to rebuild until I found the same kind of a ding on the crankshaft journal. The current engine was and industrial 10hp Kohler I picked up from and ag service. Was a great runner. Trans was opened up to find some severely worn bevel gears, which I replaced cleaned out the trans and put back together. Ross gear was not in the best of shape, bought one off put in new balls and retaining rings. Engine pulley crankshaft hole was egg shaped with a piece of shim stock trying to fill the gap, found one on a parted out tractor in a little better shape. I had 6.70-15 goodyear ags on it with inside weights which I kept for my 1054. New lift cable. Have pulled a 10" plow to me seemed a little underpowered, also Terry pulled an 8" plow. It is a run tractor to cruise the shows with. Hope your dad enjoys it. Maybe someday we will meet up plowing.

I'd say stay local, NY is a terrible place to buy tractors. We have bad roads and big taxes. Down staters don't like horse rustlers. So you need to have to worry about that when you're in state and have out of state plates.

This is what a sealed beam headlight looks like. It is a one piece replaceable unit. You don't remove "the bulb", it is a sealed unit.

1988 518-H 1967 607

Heck, that thing will probably fit in the back seat of your new truck. No need to use up trailer space to haul it along to shows.

first horse guys... Got a black hood C165 8 speed with the 16hp Kohler. where can I find a oem carb I believe its the carter 30. if any knock off carbs get the green light from you guys I'll gladly take a look at them.

I like 'em!

I like that loader.

I'll always come out of the trees to acknowledge the saving of black hoods. Good on ya!

Congratulations Dad...

Sure, that hood will work, they're both short frame tractors... & that Kohler 8 will fit nicely up under there too.

I don't know how far it is for you to go get the tractor but you should buy it if you like it and want it. That's all there is to it. If it's worth $400 to you, that's all that matters IMO, not what other guys think. You can't go wrong with a whatever model it is! Those guys might be trying to talk you out of it so they can go rustle it for themselves! We're all in this thing for different reasons, but one thing we all share is a love for 'em!

I decided to try this and the results were amazing. Being cautious, I took an old seat pan from a 1075 roller. the seat sits directly on the pan and there are deep pits and heavy rust beneath along with paint scratched or worn down to the primer. So, in other words, the patina was from bad to just plain ugly. Here is what i tried, and I would not change a thing. On the deep pitting, I used a Harbor freight flap sanding disc that was very worn just enough to take off the rust that was sticking up above the surface. If i would have had some 100 grit emery cloth, that might have been better. i followed that up with some 220 grit wet sanding and just went for the correct feel as in not really taking too much off, but " i cannot stand to have high spots of rust sticking up through the paint" kind of feel. the rust pits and scratches will still be there, but where the paint is all there, it will be flat. i followed that with 600 grit and used a light touch and plenty of soap in the water to sort of polish the paint further. the paint starts to show its beauty, but that beauty will not show when it dries. To stabilize the rust, I used a rust oxidizer that contained oxalic acid and kept it wet for 5 minutes or so when you could see the bright areas of metal that all the paint was sanded off turn slightly blue. Then rinse the part and apply just a bit to those areas again. After that dried, I found a few black streaks from the oxidizer in the paint and polished them off with 600 sand paper. You will know when the look of the piece suits you. I applied Rustoleum 2X clear to the surface in almost a continuos fashion with a short 2 minute set time. this stuff sets up in a hurry. be careful in high humidity, as a white bloom can cloud the finish. I think that celebrating the battle scars is great on some of your herd. The 2X clear coat is UV stabilized so hopefully, it will last. You can sand the blems off the next day and buff [maybe a few days later] or leave it alone. you can actually handle the piece in an hour and it feels dry, but it is still gassing out a bunch of odor. i plan to take it a step farther. I did get a little white bloom on one spot, so I will sand it enough to flatten it a little and then hit it with a higher grade of clear so as to deepen the finish and clarity and then not go too far with the buffing. Then it should really look like an oiled finish The first two pictures are half the pan sanded and half original. the next pictire is rust converter. I then took a bit of black Rusteoleum and wiped it on the really rough stuff and wiped most of it off with thinner. The last two are with the clear on and not yet sanded. That is where I am right now, about 2-3 hours shop time.. Remember this is just an experiment and I would let a real project dry longer . This all got done in 8 hours total including dry times.Thanks to cshannuth for giving me the motivation to try this

Also check both wheel hubs to see if one of the axles is spinning inside the hub. There are keys in them as well as the input pulley. It only takes one of the three to fail and no drive. Garry

Mark, please don't take photo tips from Fred. He has the only auto antifocus camera available.

The glass lens IS the bulb... the element inside is not a serviceable part. Take it to the auto parts store and get the replacement... they're cheap.... well I see you're in CT... so perhaps not quite so cheap!

Yes, the bulb is bad.They are a sealed beam headlamp, take the old one to an auto parts store and they can fix you up.