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I've had this 701 for about a year. It ran nice but didn't look the greatest. This summer I decided it was going to get a make-over before our local tractor show. The following pictures show it before and after.

Just completed a lean to off my shop, 30' x 9'. Seems a 30' x 30' shop with 6 WH's, 2 project WH's, 1 Zero Turn and 1 ATV does not leave much room to work.. Will be adding some crushed limestone Friday, complete the side panels and calling it done. Material was extremely affordable, one of my boys is the Sales Manager at a steel building manufacture here in town, d and the labor was very reasonable. Win, Win. Is nice to be able to walk around without having to step over red stuff! Dennis

& to think... I've been doing sooo good. Then, #32 runs & jumps in the truck.

Last week my daughter said she wanted to do some mowing. I've had the generator on the 314-8 so I took that off and installed the deck. Today I came home from work late and "caught" her mowing the back yard. She was pretty proud of herself and was having a blast. I love when the kids run the Horses. Last night she took the 606 Rat for a ride around the neighborhood for about 20 minutes. She was gone so long I almost sent out a search party. The video is from today. Sorry if it's rotated...The pic is from last year in case the video doesn't open. IMG_4618.MOV

Thank you very much. This is my 77 B80 and my custom 633. The 633 is a tribute tractor for a close friend friend who lost his fight with cancer in February.

I got my 416-8 back from the shop this morning. I had planned to clean the carb myself, but the Onan sort of spooked me, so I took it in. Good thing I did, they really fixed it up. Cleaned the carb, changed the oil and filter, cleaned the fuse terminals, removed a "bubba'd" wire arrangement, replaced the fuel line, shutoff valve and tank grommet, and cleaned out the tank, all for about $280. Money well spend. As I got it off the trailer and started to drive it up the hill, I put it in 3rd instead of second and almost flipped it over backwards. I am not exaggerating when I say it I rode a wheelie for ten yards, white knuckled all the way! So, okay. The 416-8 has my respect. It runs so well, and sounds so cool, I can't wait to start using it for things around the yard. First thing is going to be pulling my sailboat off the trailer to careen it this weekend.

66 Allis Chalmers B10, 68 Allis Chalmers B112, 64 John Deere 110, 77 John Deere 210-Custom

Set the "new" motor in place, figured out my plate for the mounting. Crank is same height as original motor so I do not have to go up any. Air cleaner is the only thing that hits the hood. Plenty of room under it. I really do not want to cut the hood so I will be looking for an adapter. Also the fuel tank is not a problem as my son is going to weld me one up. Battery is fine although I do need to trim about 1/2" off the front edge.

32! A couple more and you may be labeled a collector. Lol

One C-note got me those grips for free.

Craig- First thing to do is remove that god ugly seat.

Think I heard... Nor'easter next week.

That truck ain't broke----It still rolls, don't it? http://www.nydailynews.com/news/overloaded-vehicles-world-gallery-1.2329935?pmSlide=1.2329922

Sure which I had @AMC RULES magic shed. I only have 4 and have trouble making room for them.

if you look at as strictly parts, the gear reduction steering is worth somewhere around $ 300.00 by itself. then you have the wide rear rims. You can jump power to the coil and to the blue wire on the starter and try and see if it would start or better yet do a compression test. If it has compression then it will run, someday lol. I have and would offer $ 300.00 all day for it the way you described it, maybe more once I see it in person. Lots of good parts there. Good luck and post some pictures if you get it or if you have some. eric j

I don't know if I would offer much. You can't hear it running , so it could have engine problems , transmission could have problems. Wiring is butchered , deck is full of holes, how does the rest of the tractor look ? Lot of rust ? need a pressure washer to get it clean ? tires ? seat ? has it set outside since 1997 ? Lot of unknown factors which could cost a mint.

PM Me your address I will mails you a set of O rings, backers and sealing washer for the hydro motor to manifold

B-5 doesn't ring any bells for me. Can you snap a picture and post it?

Give me a day or so and I will get it for you.

That's the riskier way. If you're straining with the wrench, you're pulling hard enough to round off a stuck nut or break something -- too much constant torque, until "somethin's gotta give..." often the wrong "somethin'." Or to put it another way, pull too hard like a maniac and you'll bust a nut. Maybe the one on the machinery, maybe some other kind... An old mechanic taught me the best way to do the "poor man's impact wrench" method -- pull on the wrench or breaker bar mostly with your fingers, not your whole hand at first. That limits the torque. Thump (solid hit, but not a pile-driver hit) the wrench or bar with a soft mallet (Rubber, or old-time wooden one) closer to the end where your hand is (Mind your fingers!) and let the mallet strikes do most of the work. That's the "impact wrench" effect. Lots of torque in short bursts. Your hand on the wrench is just guiding the impact. When the nut or bolt begins to budge, grip tighter - now you can pull, maybe with a couple more mallet taps, and you'll feel it start spinning off nice and easy. Don't use a metal hammer, for safety reasons. Especially when big wrenches and bars are in play. Persuasion works wonders -- more than brute strength! Mower blades and spindle shafts spend all their time in dirt and moisture, and the spinning action of the blades makes the buts tighten down more. It's mostly the muck and dirt that gets them stuck, and PB Blaster will dissolve that easy. You just have to overcome how much they're torqued down by the mower action. That's why a little clever use of impact works almost every time, but just pulling with all your might more often results in rounded-off blade nuts, skinned knuckles, and sore muscles!

That's quite a trip for breakfast but thanks for the offer!

Is there a hold my beer and watch me unload video. Built Ford tough.

We may be looking at this all wrong, maybe his wife wouldn't let him get a new truck untill the old one was wore out! Guess he showed her!!

I wouldn't let that Series 1 issue bother you. As long as you aren't mowing on slopes or hill sides for an extended period of time it will probably last forever.

I have just recently finished a 48" deck complete restoration and a 60" deck restoration. Every bushing, bearing and wear spot has been repaired on both. Neither deck required any welding, just cleanup and repaint. Now I don't want to use them and get them dirty. Thanks to Terry for the excellent decals. That 60" deck is a beast. You can easily see the size difference in the pic. What you can't see is the weight difference. I can lift the 48" around by myself where the 60" is difficult with 2 people. Cleat

A GT2500 followed us home today. The metal has some rust, but it is straight. It runs nice and strong to. Came with what appears to be a late 60's snow plow and wheel weights.

New here but love me some Wheel Horse. I'm trying to determine the type of Wheel Horse my grandpa had. I could ask my dad, but wanting to find one and surprise him. I have this picture of it from 76 or 77. Looking at pics i thought it might be a Raider 12, but could use some help. Thanks!!

There were only a couple thousand people there, is your name Rip?

LOL, there goes the Neighborhood @ericj Throw in a 68 Dart 440 & its a deal

Newbie here, I have a C-165 and am looking for information on exactly what I have as well as any other information available. There is an "ID Number" located on tag under the dash. It reads 1116K801 with a space and then Z8603. The engine is Kohler model K341, Spec 71179, serial 2229505963. Have no history as it came with a place I purchased. Mower deck is pretty rotted out & will need to be replaced at some point. It runs well & my thoughts are to just use it but part of me wants to fix it up and then use it some more.

Here you go.

Many pump engines have a tapered crank shaft on the output side. You will need to make a mounting plate or (presuming it is the big block) find an oil sump with mounting holes on the bottom like this one.

5955 Sundstrand hydro pump gasket nla - 102759 gasket should work Garry

those gaskets are only available from TORO...if they are still available. Your dealer just may have one on the shelf. If not, I use Kero-Pak 1/32' x 1' x 3' for about $6 and cut my own. this is available from Autozone, NAPA, etc. You tube has videos on how to cut your own gaskets.

There is going to be an auction Sept 16 2017, It is located in Troy Va Ill try to attach a link to the Auctioneer but if it doesn't work look on Auctionzip.com under Raines Auctions Rainesauctions.net Pass the word Thanks John

To me that's a little steep for just a tractor. Maybe a 520 would be worth it. But the 518s aren't as sturdy as the 520, or even 300 series. I'd be weary of plowing with it. Maybe talk him down, meanwhile look for an 1100 tranny to swap. I'm in the middle of doing that to mine.

Jeff... that is the 10 cu ft low profile cart. It is probably an Ohio Steel branded cart of about the same age as the 67-10DC01 that @stevasaurus referenced above... I don't know if Wheel Horse had this model cart labeled with their name or logo in the 70s. Later in the mid 80s, the cart was available as 10 cubic foot cart Model WH10LP. Here's a clip from an 87 or 88 brochure showing the different carts....

You need to hook up with @formariz I have 2 but dont have ability to get the photos you have asked for expeditiously. Maybe in a week or two. But Formariz likely has already posted what you need in one of the threads of his 551.

Just thought I would mention a few things............ First, use a SIX point socket. a twelve point could easily round over or slip off. Second, notice that those blade nuts are somewhat rounded over and thinner than regular nuts . Pay attention to the fact that the leade or inside chamfer of your sockets [especially the cheaper ones] add to the problem of getting a deep enough grip on the blade nut and you have two factors making it easy to slip off the nut. I have cut a quarter inch off the end of a few sockets for this kind of work and it works well for me. I have two or three such sockets for oil pan screws, some motorcycle bolts, and mower blades and do not care that they might rust due to cutting off the end. In a perfect world we would all have Snap On, but we do not live in a perfect world. Use a nice long handled ratchet to make it easy on yourself. Cheater bars make for skinned knuckles I use a Harbor Freight torque wrench on sale and put red tape on the handle so i am not tempted to use it for torque applications. Ten bucks on sale and it is easier to use than a breaker bar for when the air impact will not fit. Breaker bars are still better, but once in a while, it is impossible to get the angle you want with a six point socket. Finally, use an impact socket with an impact gun.. I really do not expect you to, but somebody is gonna say it, so I thought i would be the first

Not that it matters but the Z8603 tractor serial number will be 28603. The 71179 spec number is not original to the tractor but is a service replacement engine Kohler made in 1992. Should give you many many years of service. Garry

Better check with the cemetary of your choice before ordering. I don't think they will be able to engrave much info on it after the're done cuutin in "Here lies HHHOOOOWWWWAAAARRRRDDDDD!"

Who needs a FEL when you have talent like this?

@Wheel horse lover 312-8 to I am not familiar with the particular one you are referring to, but contact https://www.wheelhorsepartsandmore.com/ on Red Square Lowell Scholljegerdes will help you out.

Hey Howard....I do my best to get a response from you. Where Ya been hidin brother?

The Eaton 1100 hydro unit in the tractor doesn't have a tow valve, but it unloads at low speed -- pushing it or towing it out on a come-along or winch is no problem. If you pull it with a vehicle, just keep to a walking pace.

Come along will work or for $10 get a boat cable winch and bolt it to the trailer. Use mine all the time - works like a charm...

Just needed a bigger truck.

I love how the hub cap falls off with the delayed reaction!

I bet that big honkin deck acted like a boat anchor!