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On vacation last week with the "Family". The crabs were cooperating. The kids got in a lot of paddle and pool time. Great Food.

The easiest and quickest way to bolt up a four bolt Wheel Horse transmission to the frame of your tractor is to make yourself two 3/8 studs to set in the top two holes of the transmission (side that bolts into frame) . The studs protrude enough to align the frame on the transmission. Bolt up your bottom bolts then remove the studs one at a time , replacing with the other two 3/8 transmission bolts and lock washers.

Well I did something I have never done with the KT powered 417 this year. I always buy 100 octane aviation fuel to put in my seldom used small engines. Things like my generators, chainsaw mixes, snowblower, etc. I dumped 2+ gallons of the expensive stuff in the 417 and mowed yesterday with it. What an incredible difference. It was like it had new points, plugs and a perfect timing adjustment done to it. No hiccups, steady power in high grass and no excessive heat. Oh and it has a racing fuel smell to it that I always loved! I actually had a smile on my face while mowing. Just had to share it!

Yesterday I was overseeing a whole house generator installation for a friend. This lady, along with her late husband, made it possible for my ‘B’-160 that I bought new to come back to me. Most of you know the scoop on that. I was over there the better part of the day and swapped out a couple light fixtures as the generator installation progressed. Early in the afternoon she said “I’ve got something else you’re going to want”. We walked out to the garage and she moved a few things to uncover this: I’ve been looking for a trailer like this but really didn’t think I’d find one especially in this shape. Zero rust and pitting and just a little bit of a repair on the rear lip. I offered to pay for it but she just said I could have it. It’s not the original paint so I’ll give it a fresh coat and correct the wheel color. I’m also thinking truck bed coating would be nice in the bed. The grandkids will love riding around in this.

If you only use it for mowing, I would stay with the 312 that you have. The 12 will turn a 42" deck without breathing hard. The Onans throw so much heat, I only use mine for blowing snow. Good used DD deck pulleys very hard to find and expensive.... I have a few. You should be able to find many working decks in your area for $200-$300. Just check the spindles for noise and side to side "slop", and remove the belt cover and check that the deck idler tensioning system is free and working. The are usually not working, but are fairly easy to clean up and fix and it will provide a price bargaining chip for you.

I'm glad you all think it sounds nice, i have to say, i am very pleased too! the engine is in fact a briggs twin V, 13hp. I drove it though the village to get to the village funday, lots of people liked it haha (more pictured to follow) all the best, Callum

Damn fine looking family from Pennsylvania. Grandma holding the Stars and Strips, the original was sewn in Pennsylvania. Guy on the bottom step holding the oldest, and still the best brewed beer in America, also brewed in Pennsylvania. This old southern boy has gotta give props to the Keystone State.

516H wiring problems - not so much - only has ammeter and fuel tank gauges...but the tranny is a weak hydro ( eaton 700)...and the engine is expensive to work on.. as far as being a good machine - it is a 500 series and built tough...in the long run if you only need it for mowing, you are probably best off getting a decent deck for your 312...

just in case something goes wrong I am ready.

I'm like Jeff. I'd stick with the 12hp Kohler. You can't beat a kohler and Onan's are more expensive to maintain with parts being hard to come by sometimes. Depending on the structure of the deck itself - rotted out or not - I'd consider fixing it or look for another complete deck. But, that's just me!

When ever ya ask a Cajun what's ya cooking? Ya always get the same response. Why is it trying to crawl out of the pot?

Just my ... If the 516H has wiring gremlins (as do the 520H's) and is burning oil I'd stay away . Onans are expensive to rebuild and the 16hp doesn't share some of the same parts as the 18/20hp engines . Just keep looking for a deck or a hydro tractor with deck.

I apologize for allready having starting a topic without providing an introduction, and also for the grammar mistakes....hihi Im Henry from the northern part of the Netherlands, last april i had an operation on my knee and decided it was time to update the old MTD (12pk briggs stratton). That thing runs like new again, and had a fantastic time working on it... With that said...it had some room for improvement (being kind here) it seems a bit tiny ..and it is just.... well...not quite it... So the search went how to improve, do thing "better"...At that time i saw for the first time a wheel horse, never seen one before...fell in love at first sight. After spending a lot of time on the forum (GREAT SOURCE !!! THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH) And with a bit of luck, I came across an 316-8 in to what i believe very good shape for its age. It seems a bit hard to get hold on Wheel Horse here... First ill just spend some time "looking" then the "first" maintenance and "verifications" ....and have a bit of fun.... After that it will probably end up at the working place and give it some detailed attention Thanks all ! Kind regards from our place ! Henry

I have a pair of 3/8-16 X 2" set screws that I use. They align the transaxle and I run nuts up on them to snug it into place and then insert the lower bolts. Once the lower bolts are tight I replace them with regular bolts.Couple of bucks, but saves a lot of time.

Similar studs are directed in the Sundstrand manual (to align the hidden O-rings )for the separated system as in the D series as I have made several of them. Once the hex head is off, use hack saw to cut a slot for a flat screwdriver to remove the stud. Works great...

I have had stuff like that before when a wire had a loose connection and the wire would heat up and thus thermally expand and disconnect itself A few places it has happened on a Wheel horse is the ammeter, seat switch, a connection inside the switch itself, Even the one where you depress the clutch to start. You already have shown that you know how to evaluate problems and keep things running. You could just run a wire from the light switch leg off the ignition switch until you get your multi meter back. I recently purchased a c-141 that had an electric fuel pump wired in this fashion

It sounds good whatever it is . The anticipation is killing me ... come on what is it already !!!

That works for me, the ones on it now are tucked in under fenders, plus they are rusted bad, i will call RS Member Ericj, he has 30 some 520's LOL

A 60 amp feeder to a 100 amp rated panel really isn't a problem. Vice-versa would be. There's a lot more to it but if your wire size is correct you are fine............at least with that situation.

Always happy to see a family be able to get together. So many times people are going in all kinds of directions and getting together is difficult. Really glad to see that wasn't a problem for your group.

They are just spares. Kinda like all the knobs on Radio's in the 30's!

That's a good 'un!

Maybe a Wheel Horse in the show room of a John Deere dealer ?

@Racinbob very nice find. Great condition. The reason @ACman has 2 panel is he needs one dedicated panel so when he attaches the positive and negative wires to the bolts in @ACcuz 's neck he does not blow the whole system.

Nice score on the wagon bob ! Way nicer than my $30 cart . My house was was built by a man who owned a electrical business (I have two 200amp boxes)....I might need you to come to my house. I still have switches that I don't know what they do ... !

WOW! Great stuff Aldon. As usual superb photo documentation and commentary. I guess that proves never assume too much until you have the whole assembly torn down. That deteriorating needle cage would have destroyed all your prior hard work, not to mention possibly the entire tranny itself. Great job!

Instead of questioning every post made on your thread why don't you simply take the advice as given. Its doubtful that you have a cable that is burned thru. It is highly possibly you have a cable that looks good but has a poor connection. My advice as simply as I can put it is to take the advice as given by people with a lot more experience than you seem to have. Its been handed out to you in a simple systematic form that can be easily followed by anyone. Since we can't be there to hold your hand we can only offer advice based on your comments on how it is acting what it is or isn't doing. My advice is to re-read the posts and do what has been suggested and you will arive at a conclusion and solve the problem. If your unable to follow the simple advice I would suggest that you contact the nearest small engine repair facility and have them fix it. Your problem is a simple one that anyone with any mechanical and or electrical experience can solve in less than 5 minutes.

Rodney Burger and I will have a 1962 702 Wheel Horse (with Hydro Unit), 1958 RJ and a 1964 854 Wheel Horse at the Plymouth Show on Saturday!

Hi Everyone, It's been a while since I've been able to play with the Wheelhorses, been working on my house so much and we bought a new place with plenty of barn space. All my tools are moved to clean the garage out for the realtor/showing and now that I'm away from my tools (I have a flat head, phillips, my screw gun, some channel locks and a few sockets handy) (oh yeah this started the day after I moved my tools) I've got a wiring problem. From the start, I'm mowing along and the tractor starts to die.. almost gets to stalling out then picks up again. I limp it back to the driveway then after letting it sit it won't start at all. I first checked my points and I had no spark. So I had some sand paper and just cleaned the points a bit and had spark again. Great, right? Tractor fired up and ran great for about 10 seconds, then died again. Lost spark, I had the points cover off while I ran it for a bit in the garage. I figured I'd see if the coil or condenser are giving fits not helping to produce spark but don't know if I have power to the coil or not. I had a loose wire dangling from my truck (license plate light I think) so I cut it off to try making a jumper wire. Pinched it into the battery terminal and held it on the coil and the problem went away! I pull my jumper off and it dies after a few seconds. I ended up jamming the jumper into the eyelet of the coil wire and zip tying it in place to finish mowing. Obviously I have a wiring gremlin. The seat safety is bypassed, has been since I got the tractor. The PTO safety is in place, but this is acting the same whether mowing or not. I don't get though, how the problem can come and go when the machine is even sitting, not driving over bumps or terrain. Any ideas how to troubleshoot, with very limited tools at this house? I almost think I might grab a toggle switch from Walmart and manually kill the coil until the move is complete... then I'll have my toolboxes, meters, etc. Can't wait to get my 502 out of storage and play around with that soon too!

All this high tech pulley math has my noggin spinning. Tractors are made for working. If you want to go fast, build one of these.

Best way to check a rod and crank assembly clearance is to use Plastigauge. It will check the two components as an assembly, not just one piece.

Took it to a show and swap meet a couple of weeks ago and had a great time, funny thing was is John Deere was the featured tractor this year and as you can see in the pics they were out numbered. It was only the second year for this show. It is held in Osceola, Iowa, and a couple of fellow Wheel Horse enthusiast got it started last year. We had about 25 more machines this year, so it's growing. Okay, picture size limits are fighting me so will add another post. Okay, apparently I can't post ANY more pictures at all! Whats with that?!

Here is another Way. Marv

WOW that is a nice looking trailer!

Add in a HF lift table. Have the frame on stands. Put the tranny on the table. Lift the tranny with the table and roll the tranny in place.

Thanks for making me hungry! Looks like a great patriotic family, have fun.

I have some of those I made for splitting our ford tractors we had here. Big dowel pins pretty much. Great idea Lane

Perhaps they could be called "tranny stud hangers"?

Sure can! Rotor is a 166-0767 and the module is a 166-0785. Have you done the module test in the manual? Ignitiontest.pdf

If the ign. switch has the 'lighting' lug present, it will have a fuse right behind the dash..........

That would have been a catastrophic failure in short time. Good thing you caught it.

Sounds like the 20 hp Honda twin we swapped in our EZGO.

Yep I have them available still...just haven't posted on ebay in a little while. The kit is $180 plus shipping costs and includes all new seals, gaskets, bushings, bearings, and the shifter boot. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions or are interested.

I'd have to go with a diesel of some sort.

That sounds sweet. Is that cherry bomb for a muffler?

Triumph twin?

Yes, if you have 12 volts at the solenoid from the battery, which you should have confirmed, you can jump that to the purple wire and see if the starter turns. If not, see if you have power at the solenoid on the connection going to the starter as well when you jump it. If you do the solenoid is fine and it could be the battery. Takes longer to try and explain correctly, then it does to do the procedure. I just want to reach through the computer and show you. LOL. Did you also try what 953 nut suggested? If you do that and tell us the results, one of us can give you direction from there as well. He's pretty much saying the same thing in a different way. I'm giving lots of info, and he's keeping it in simple bites. He knows what he's talking about.

Carlos: 702 Manual is right here on Red Square: I am in the process of rebuilding a 702 right now !

Honda ?

418a is not a rare tractor. My rare tractor list is a s follows: 1) RJ25 2) RS83 Senior 3) Lever steer 4) RJ59 5) 420LSE 6) 1046 7) C195