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that at the tender young age of 65 I would be singing in a rock and roll band? I will eventually be playing guitar also Lord willing and the creek don't rise. This band is comprised of seven members of my graduating class in 1970. They have been playing together for a couple years now and recently asked me to join in as a backup singer because our lead singer said he needed some help. This was very nice of all them but especially Curt, the lead singer. I know their real reason was to get me out of the house and using my voice to hopefully strengthen my breathing. So I am now getting out three times a week, once for our Wednesday breakfast and twice for band practice. I know this had nothing to do with my singing ability as I couldn't carry a tune in a dump truck. I suck and they don't care. It is a true testament to a great class, ( the largest in our school history with 93 students) and the best friends a guy could ever ask for. I am blessed. I just wanted to share this with all my great friends here. We don't play any gigs but will have a little show at the band leader's home with a picnic and his local family reunion on August 5th. I hope I have the nerve to do this.

Well I knocked out some of the main projects on my agenda so I decided to get started on the new 9×24 garden shed addition. Much room for the old man and his attachments Much more ahead on this project this is just a sneak peek!

I've been working on my SK-486 and 1067 for the past three years. Slowly bringing everything up to spec and as close to "new" condition as possible. Everything works like it was originally delivered. Both machines have about 1,300 hours on their original engines, frames, transmissions (eight speed), and tires. The 1067 is 50 years old and the SK-486 is 35. I put about 15 hours on each of them a year, mowing and pulling. My plan is to have them 10 more years and then to pass them down to my two sons. I'd like my sons to get another 20 years of tinkering and light use out of them. So, what I'm wondering, does this sound reasonable and what more should I consider doing to these machines so they run for the next 30 years?

The Kohler twins are nice.

@JERSEYHAWG / Glenn We are all glad your were born!

For the price it has quite a bit going for it. He dropped the asking price after he realized there was an issue with 3rd gear. It is clean overall, so very easy to get it into a pristine look. Has new tires all around with refinished rims. Would be easy to make it into a pseudo 401 clone (uni-drive tranny) by adding the two engine and exhaust heat shields, belt cover, repairing the hood, adding choke and throttle cables. Since the show in June, seems that available round hoods are far less, and asking prices have jumped considerably. I am probably going to go the 401 clone route and then look for the 551 bits over time. I would like to find a complete hood rather than doing a repair. I have wound up with several extra frames and transaxles, and eventually want to piece together something like this, and the cut hood would be the perfect starting point!

I'm thinkin seat time the snot out of it and enjoy Tg.....

Keep taking care of them like you have and teach the boys how to as well. That should do it! Nice rides!

Our member, specialwheelhorse Jimmy has been in the hospital since March 21st (just found out) and is not goin' to be with us much longer. I asked for permission from his Mrs. to relate this information and it was ok'd. She is asking for help to liquidate Jimmy's stable of fabulous WH's, all with mowers and his spare engines and parts. I really don't know where to turn, but here. He has moved from Texas to Tennessee, but last I saw of stable was excellent appearance and condition. His Pond signed WH was unique to me but prob customary to all that are able to go to Mentone. Anyway if anyone cares to help on this matter (I believe we are only to sell what's in our hands on classified) His wife Dee would greatly appreciate it and I would as far as where and how to go forward with this. Again I just can't say enough good about Jimmy as many of you too found when and if ya met him, please say a prayer for him, wife Dee and family and I will try and find more on location and liquidation. All I ask is fairness and respect for the man, his work, and family too.

As with your group, we are doing this primarily for our own entertainment and enjoyment. I'm having a great time just as you did. Gloria, Hang on Sloopy, Who'll stop the rain., Wild Thing, Mr. Tambourine Man, Not your Stepping Stone, Take it easy, Lodi, Turn the page, Have you ever seen the rain, House of the rising sun, Love is all around, Beg Borrow and Steal, Hanky Panky, Proud Mary, Just like Me, and a few songs written by The lead singer, set to music by the rest of the band.

First off, ! 1000 hours with proper preventive maintenance isn't anything to be alarmed by. Ask if your seller has any maintenance records, or can at least describe the care it's had. Even if there aren't extensive maintenance records, a seller who has most if not all of the the manuals tends to be the more meticulous sort. Find out when it last had both the engine oil and transmission oil changed. Pro tip -- Ask what fluid was put in the transaxle. The correct answer is 10W-30 motor oil! Hydraulic oil or automatic transmission fluid are incorrect. (On the other hand, if it does have the wrong fluid in the transaxle, don't panic unless other things are wrong. Just change the fluid to 10W-30 after you get it home, mow with it once or otherwise work it for a day, and then change it one more time. The Eaton 1100 hydro pump and Wheel Horse Uni-Drive axle are pretty bulletproof.) Look it over and check for obvious signs of abuse or poor care. Remember, if it's been working hard to earn its keep, there may be dirt and cosmetic and some mechanical wear, but abuse usually has a way of showing itself. For instance, the fuel gauge failing or reading wrong is a pretty common age-related problem. Not uncommon to see lots of oil and dirt on top of the axle. It's hard to fill the transaxle without spilling some if the person doing it was in a hurry, so spilled oil tends to attract a buildup of crud. On the other hand, the hydraulic lift running poorly, or the hydrostatic drive slipping under load are signs that some repairs might be needed. Look at the plastic fan on the hydro pump, under the right-hand rear fender in front. The fan shouldn't be chewed up or missing blades. It's vital to keep the hydro pump cool. The engine might puff a little smoke when it starts, but shouldn't smoke once it's running and under load. (Although blue smoke under load may not be a major engine problem -- it's often fixed just by cleaning a neglected crankcase breather filter.) Look closely in and around the shroud on the fan side of the engine and in the fins on the PTO side as well. Make sure it's not plugged up with grass clippings and crud. Running it with junk in the cooling fins is a cause of problems with the Onan engines. They need good air flow to stay cool. It may or may not have the plastic shroud to cover the PTO and mower belts. Personally, I'm not a fan of the plastic shroud -- it's ugly and bulky-looking to me, and it tends to get in the way of airflow leaving the engine. But if it was kept, (even if it wasn't used much) then it's probably a good sign of an owner who keeps everything in order. The drive motion lever (right-hand lever) sometimes won't stay in place while driving the tractor, or it might creep a little when it's supposed to be in neutral. Those aren't deal-breakers -- they're simple adjustments to make on a big cam you can see when you tilt the seat forward. But they can be signs that whoever did the maintenance was in a hurry and missed them, which means you should check the tractor over and just give it some TLC to catch any minor things before they turn into problems. There's nothing especially valuable about the "Anniversary" 1996 tractors. They did get nifty decals with gold instead of silver, and a gold-colored plastic emblem on the hood instead of silver. There were plastic hubcaps with the center horse head logo in gold; they're OK but most folks usually prefer the classic chrome hubcabs, really. Prices vary depending on what part of the country the tractor is in. They tend to be a little higher out East, but then, a lot of things tend to cost a little more out East... 520's in decent condition seem go anywhere from around $500 and up in my area, sometimes less if you're lucky. Attachments will add to the price, so a solid 520 with a good mower deck included will probably go for more than that. More attachments will just add more to the price on a package deal. A 520 with several good attachments, especially a two-stage snowthrower included, can get up in price. Still, you're getting a lot more machinery for your money than you will with box-store stuff. It's all relative. Good luck!

.... but I definitely wasn't going to be the first to respond about the title either .

Ha ha! Your post title is funny! Not even gonna go there. You will need a rod that fits your crank. If you have the crankshaft turned/reground undersized then you need the appropriate size rod, e.g. .010 under. The length will be the same.

It really ends up being a matter of preference. I've been in the GT hobby long enough to know that if you want an original "rare" tractor, it is best to buy one that has all or most of the rare parts on it to start with. They often can be found over time with a lot of patience, a little luck, and a thick pocketbook. Sometimes, by the time you get all the pieces together, you would've been cheaper to buy one that had what you needed. However, for some it is the thrill of the hunt! Looking at your tractor, it is cool as is, with the help of some hood work. I agree with @Retierd Wrencher make it your own and have a one of a kind fun little horse!

Hard enough to keep the front tires on the ground with a K-91 between your knees, with a K-161 it would be a hand full.

The original ignition switch is near rare as frogs hair too. even if you find the H55, getting the correct air cleaner etc adds more cost and challenge The stuff that's missing seems to be all the stuff that made that model unique. you may likely have more into buying and gathering the missing pieces ala carte than it will be valued. I saw one sit on EBay this spring for a few weeks with no one ponying up the $550 buy it now price. Reatoring would be cool but I think it would make a nice cruiser too.

Saturday I am picking up what originally was a model 551. It is far from being original at this point. It has a K91 installed, missing several covers, and someone cut the rear half of the hood off. So, which way would you go, try to scrounge parts for a 551 restore (H55 engine extremely rare), keep the K91, or some other engine? I will be repairing or replacing the hood, and finding the missing covers.

Nice looking 1054 there...i let one slip through my hands a while back...and still regret it to this day. The 953/1054 have always appealed to me too. Maybe Richard @953 nut will be along shortly with some pointers on these machines.

I am probably just going to fix the hood and add the covers and run it as is. If over time I can find the 551 specific parts, then it would go back as original, someday. Fun little tractor regardless!

Ride 'em cowboy.

I'd try to find a hood to keep the heat off Big Jim and the Twins and a belt cover and drive it!

Very nice machines but I have found that garage kept tractors will fare the best. I think if you take care of them as you would a nice car they will last for another 50 years. I can see 2 tractors for sale and always tell you which one was appreciated and taken care of. And with anything mechanical some things will ware out. I think you already gave them a new life.

Looking at a 1054 right now and so far, I like what I see. I've heard that these tractors are great until you have to work on them. I've heard that from a number of people. So my question is, what is so difficult? Are these good machines? They seem to be the oddball of the bunch which I guess is why they appeal to me. What horse power are they (I assume 10). Would I be correct in assuming the regular Wheelhorse attachments would not work with this model?

Well imagine checking the "new content" posts and seeing these two come up in this order

I was looking at that one on myself, priced right but too far away to be enticing. The wheel weights are not , but worth half the asking price. Go get it. Beats me, I guess the later models with a flip up hood are a bit easier to get to, but my 953 are so reliable that it is a non-issue! If you bolt on an mid-mount you can use anything that will fit other .

Dude.

I thought it was a good buy and glad to see it will have a good home. I sold a roller along time ago with a cut hood but don't know whatever came of it. It was a 400 though. That looks cool and dangerous at the same time.

A BIG HAPPY BIRTHDAY to you Glenn....hope you have a great day.

Hope it's a good one!!

Whatever you do, use DeOxit on the new or cleaned connections then fill any spaces with dielectric grease then put your connections together.

I don't own the model you have so can't help with photos. I would suggest you abandon all of the present wiring and replace it all one at a time following the diagram.

Best way to keep them in good shape is , buy another one and use that for working and then keep those to for best . beautiful looking tractors , almost a shame to work them .

They sure look nice , well taken care of. AT least 30 more years.

Static Timing I have used this method on K91's through K341's. It has never failed me when done correctly.

Look up the static timing method - just use an ohm meter and set the point gap where it just breaks the points open at the S mark on the flywheel as it comes around - this is the best overall setting you'll find . Everything wears in over time and even on rebuilt engines you're better off setting them this way . Using this method sets the timing advance where it should be , hence the S mark on the flywheel .... Sarge

Just got this so looking forward to a good read. As I'm new to wheel horse it's signed by and includes an audi CD by Mr Cecil Pond. I as yet dont know who Mr Pond is but i will do some resurch and find out 🖒

I've been looking for a replacement deck for my tractor for a few months now to replace the 42" rear discharge that came with it... I finally located one. A 42" side discharge, that's a much newer design. The RD is a 70's or 80's model and the newer SD I just got is a 1993 model. Overall, this SD is just massive in its construction when compared to the RD. I know it's not apples to apples, but the metal is thicker in several places. It just weighs more. Theres a really nice 1/2" bent metal reinforcement rod all around the leading edge that was just a great idea. There's rigid baffles underneat to strengthen things up.. it just seems funny to me that things got more robust as time went on in his instance when you're usually used to things getting crappier and more "throw away" as the years go by. Just an observation...

All of the previous post by EricF are spot on.I have a 416-8 that was used commercially and it seemed to be maintained at the one more job out of it level.If it was used in a commercial setting then check out the front end well.High mowing speeds and a 48" or worse a 60" deck can beat the frame mounting points for the front axle egg shaped.This leads to a wobbly front end.Dont be surprised to find liquid sealer in the tires either.They help keep the tires inflated for cheap but can be a mess to deal with if you need new rubber.A 520 with a 1000 hours on the clock is worth looking at but if used by Billy Bob to get into the lawn care business I would look at everything with a suspicious eye.Luck,JAinVA

Man, i just bought 953nut endorsed wire strippers, cant swing this week

Sounds like that should all be up to the machine shop.....thanks for clearing up my doubts and worries.....i dont want to end uo with a rod thats to short.. Thanks again

Have a great birthday Glenn ...

LEDs are standardized electronic parts. The ones in the light module are probably common 5mm panel-mount LEDs. I haven't needed to take my panel apart, so I don't know the details of how it goes together. Typically, panel-mount LEDs have a "shoulder" molded on the back side which keeps the LED from poking too far out of the hole it's inserted in. Once in a while, you'll see a plastic or rubber grommet with a groove on both the inside and outside edges used to hold the LED in position in a panel hole, but usually the LED is just soldered to a board which is mounted behind the panel. The LED is inserted into the board to a specific depth on the leads and soldered on, and the excess length of the leads is cut off -- so it's held in place and positioned by how it's soldered in. It's easy to do, especially with the others present as a guide. The only trick is to watch the orientation of the leads -- you have to orient them correctly for + / - in the circuit or the LED won't light up. Look at the other LEDs to tell. One edge of the back of the LED is flat, and the lead that's next to it is the "-" lead. Circuit boards should also be marked for polarity of LEDs, and sometimes have the outline of the base of the LED, including the flat edge, printed on to help you orient it. I'll guess and suggest that the LED to use is probably a 5mm panel-mount, diffused type. "Diffused" means the translucent plastic has a slightly frosted appearance to make the whole LED glow nicely, not just show a tiny pinpoint light. You'll also have a choice of normal or "super-bright" LEDs. The super-bright ones are more visible in daylight, but depending on how the light panel was designed, WH might have used slightly less-expensive standard LEDs. If you want to be sure you can spot the oil pressure light, you could try a super-bright one, although it might be really bright if you look at it in the garage! Either way, LED's are cheap so try whatever you think is best.

Side saddle? No wheelie bar? If the price is right ($$, I have no idea!) I'd buy it, use it, watch for parts and be happy if I found some. If they didn't materialize I'd mod or sell it. Currently guess is tastefully mod it to as close to original as possible.

I saw that on CL and was wondering who would buy it. Put a Vanguard in it!

I have to replace 3rd gear first! With the hood cut, I have a nice K161T engine!

To me it looks like a three decade old honest worker.

Guess I better get to work on one of mine!

With any electrical problem the first step in correcting it is to clean and tighten all electrical connections. This will cure the majority of electrical problems, especially intermittent ones.