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I am building up a 520 for pulling. It will be a modified puller. 1 1/8" 8 speed rearend. Straight front axle with drop spindles. 26x12x12 rear tires. Skinny fronts and a V twin. Scouting all the pieces now. Got a 8 speed parts tractor last night.

Thanks gents. All made possible by the many posts by @daveoman1966 and some support from @fast88pu. Took me a good while before I had the confidence to dive in on these. Dave's informational posts are phenomenal when you gather them all. I just want this GT14 thread to sort of be a catch all.

I agree with ztnoo. Aldon This needs to be in the instructional thread. If I ever own a hydro I know where to get it rebuilt. Jay

It doesn't look bad. But was rode hard and put away wet many times. Many welds and all safetys removed. The gas tank and seat also caught fire.

it will pull a lot more than it is capable of stopping, be careful!

Here are some pictures of two parts for a Wheel Horse you do not see very often ! These were on a pre- 1965 Wheel Horse. I will post the pictures and let members review and see if they know what these were used by Wheel Horse for on one of their tractors.

Hello all red square people. I have just purchased my first wheel horse. It is a 520xi year 1999. It is a very clean unit with good paint and functions fine. I bought it from a gentleman who no longer needed it. The hour meter works and reads 12xx hours. I got a 59 inch mower deck, snow/dozer blade and a mid mount grader blade with it. The original owner had all the manuals and service tickets with it. I paid 2200 dollars for it. I bought it for a house and 7 acres my wife and I recently purchased. The house is over a 100 years old and stood in the middle of pastures but has since been over taken by blackberry bushes. My huskvarna was getting it's butt kicked everytime I tried to knock those blackberries down. I am hoping I can mow quicker, clear those blackberries and smooth out that old rough pasture. I will be looking for a tiller as I like to garden and have lots of room to plant in. I will post pics tomorrow for all to see.

I am watching with eyes wide open!

So I've torn down 4 pumps previously and I may not do it same as others but it seems to work for me. The pictures tell most of the story. I cleaned the dirt and grease as best I could and I start by removing the cam assembly first: From the side, you can see the pin that needs to be driven out. once you drive the pin out, the cast piece slides off and you then get to the three retaining screws/bolts. Once you remove cam housing, there are some oings and a triangular washer. These prints are almost impossible to find from TORO/Wheelhorse. A few have managed to get replacements from hydraulic shops and Napa. There is a steel spacer that has to come off. This pump had some minor shaft corrosion. Once I cleaned it off, I tilted unit and it slid to where I could pull it free. Then flip it over and start removing the side cover. This will allow you to drive the shafts out once you remove the squash plate pins. Next remove qty 4, 9/16" bolts that hold pump housing to the main assembly. It may require some gentle tapping to break free the gasket but it will now come free. Next drive the shaft pins down enough that the shafts slide in and out. Then remove the shafts and squash plate assembly. Note that the pins remain in place. Later to reassemble I pull them the rest of the way and start them before sliding the shafts back in place to make it easier to finish driving them in. You can now see the retaining ring that holds the main pump shaft and bearing in place. Remove the ring. Once removed, I push the shaft and bearing back through. Then I push the seal through. Much easier than trying to pull seal from outside. all the parts arranged to make reassembly easier. Then I polish the brass. I do each one, then re-insert to keep the order correct. I start with 220 and work my way to 1500 grit. Before: After: Assembly for another day:-)

@AMC RULES You'll have to pry this one outta this little ones hands ! She isn't so innocent ! Don't let that cute little face fool you . She tried running off with my 1057 when nobody was looking The stink eye ...

Your posts are a real asset to our site. Now get back to work so we can learn even more!

Great photo documentation and commentary!!!

Believed to be a 67 LawnRanger . This is part of the treo of tractors the cuz and I purchased on the phone unseen while we were on our way to the Big Show . It sat in a garage for at least 20yrs before it was pulled out . Just the way we like them . Cuz did really good on this one . One repaint , no rips or tears in seat , though there's a ring in the seat . Other than the paint it looks to be a all original tractor . It started on the first pull when the cuz got it out for pics ... !!!

Parts tractor????? That looks like something I'ld be using!

Just as an example - pulled the contents of my small shed on my 6.5'x12' utility trailer , or about 5,000lbs of stuff including the sand blaster and all it's blasting media (450lbs of it) . D-180 pulled it fine at first , until the front half was in the street to make the lap to position the trailer to re-load the stuff in the shed - and promptly broke the engine coupler/pump shaft on the Sundstrand pump . Now , I've got a crippled tractor with a stuck tow valve , and a heavy trailer sitting on the 3pt hitch , raised up nice and high . So, get the High Lift jack out of the other shed , lift up the trailer and get it off the tractor - check . Drove a 1/4" hitch pin through the hole that was drilled in the coupler/shaft last winter the last time it broke/stripped to replace the grade 8 bolt so I could limp it out back , vibrating like mad the whole time at idle....check. Jump in the Dodge pickup , go around out front and back up to the trailer - check . Trailer too high and Hi-Lift is in the way , lower trailer jack and remove Hi-lift - check . Start backing up truck watching the hitch in the rear camera , almost got under the ball but the ball seems to be moving away to one side ....wtf ? Check Mate....duh . The front frame and tongue of the trailer couldn't take the weight sitting off on one member where the jack was holding it up (2x2 angle iron , really ??) - so the whole thing slowly twisted until the trailer jack was laying on it's side , on the ground . Stand there for a minute and assess the situation , utter several choice words and drive chocks under front/rear of the trailer tires . Go back to shed , get the stupid Hi-Lift and pick up the nose of the now mangled trailer - check . Take 3 attempts to hook up the truck , got it the 3rd time and set it on the ball hitch , latched it down and removed the Hi-Lift - then tossed the jack on the trailer and leave rubber halfway around the block with the Hemi - check . Back what's left of the trailer , and the slew of stuff strewn around it up to the shed - time for a beer or three and reflect on my own stupidity . Unload the trailer into the shed , reminding myself the whole time just how much this stuff weighs and swearing heavily the whole time - wife asks at dinner what all the commotion was about - "don't ask , you don't want to know" .... Waiting for the local steel supply to get my 2x3x1/4 rectangular tubing to build a new tongue along with a new coupler - and a much heavier jack . Pretty sure when I'm done that will never bend again....lesson learned . Still working on the D and it's pump problem , that turned out to be a whole other can of worms...ugh . Btw- shed has a very nice , stout new floor under it , which is what started all this in the first place . Sarge

Just paying it forward, my friend! I have received boat loads of help here.

Stopping is always the issue when pulling a load . Lot of folks ask me what truck can pull what and such - that's not the question to ask , it's whether or not the truck can safely stop that load . Pulling something much larger than the tractor also becomes a real issue if the load pushes it sideways - you can end up under the trailer pretty easily and it's has happened in the past . Common sense isn't so common these days - so just be careful and consider the consequences if it all goes wrong. Sarge

Like Richard said, stopping is an issue. Also keeping the front end down. I used to move a 30' travel trailer with my 76 and I would put the snowblower on it as well as keeping the tongue jack wheel just a couple inches off the ground. Thinking back I'm surprised I didn't break anything. I often pulled a 225 gallon sprayer tank full of water to give seedlings a drink. It was balanced such that keeping the front down wasn't a problem but going down couple of hills got a bit iffy when it wanted to push the tractor. I'd suggest to just use common sense (that I was likely lacking back then) and think about what could happen. If something does happen the results might not be pretty.

Eric, thanks for reviving this thread and giving us your thoughts. This is an excellent topic, with several different points of view. I just read the whole thing again, which reinforced everything I learned from reading it all last fall. Thanks to everyone who's contributed, and especially to those who answered some of my questions.

Not quite like one I've ever seen before, but... my best guess is gonna be the bracket that mounts the switch... for the Suburban's accessory, HL-5 light kit.

Nice score!! Looks really good. Craig, when are you going up? Maybe I can distract the kids while you sneak off with this one and another for me.

Like this one http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wheel-Horse-Tractor-Mower-B-80-PTO-Pivot-Base-Plate-Bracket-/201958502901?hash=item2f05aa31f5:g:FqUAAOSwx2dYJh8L You can sort of make it out in this pic. This is on my C-121 after removing the pan and mount. Bolts on top of attach-a-matic bracket

My C-121 was mounted with that same anti-vibration mount. Replaced the engine with the regular big block pan and discarded the anti-vibration mount. The smaller pan is required for the anti-vibration mount. Also had to find the plate that bolts to the frame to hold the bottom of the hoop. It bolts to the same spot as the attach-a-matic (the two bolts into the frame below the hoop in your pic). Someone took the oil pan off the bad engine and put it on the new engine so it would fit in that mount. The pan in the pic didn't come on that engine. I believe the green is a replacement engine (I have a green 16hp, purchased from a neighbor who had that new replacement engine since the early 80's and put it on my 312-8). Hope that helps.

Here it is, I think....

That seat alone is worth the price of admission - been on a hunt for years to find the correct stamped vinyl to match the lines in the white portion , evidently the stuff was made just for WH . Sarge

Maybe some sort of Mount for a cigarette lighter?

What izz thaaat !!?? Ok really though..... All good advice and very true. And appreciated. Keeping the front down won't be to much of an issue with 20x8x8 fluid filled tires out there..... it weighs 170lbs more than stock. I'm Definitely concerned about the Whoa more than the Go.

Yes they will!

Your near Lake Anna,,,,,,,,,,,,,if you fish AND have a Wheel Horse,,,,,you are certainly home,,,,,,,, Welcome to the club !!!!!!! well its not really a club,,,, lol Howard 857 Horse in VA

No mention of how hard it is to get all the gears into that case! Or how many times we had to take it apart because if felt too tight!!!

So the guy selling the 656 is gone for the next few weeks, so I won't be able to get that anytime soon. I guess I'll give the Ranger seller a call. Who knows, maybe I will end up with both!

I use after market I see no difference except cost, but it's your money. The Machine pulling a plow for 3 consecutive years and no issues built with aftermarket piston and rings.

You guessed it!! I'm thinking that you should put his tractor on the trailer, then pick out your plow tractor and add it to the load. Say back to what this post was all about.... Did you pick out which tractor your going to buy? Ranger? 656? Both?!?!?

The internal parts didn't change over the years, a K301 is a K301. I would suggest that you have the block and crank measured by a machine shop before buying parts. There is no prize given for the greatest number of posts per day on this site. You have done three posts today asking the same thing.

I recently added a 520H steering to my '82 C195. I used the C195 axle with 520H spindles, tie rods (had to be shortened [shortened out of the middle because of left and right thread]). Steering shaft from 520H (had to be shortened to fit) and the vertical shaft from the 520H. The gear box will bolt to the frame(will need to drill two holes) if you get the horizontal shaft the correct length. Measure 2x cut once. Good luck Edwroy

Don't know about your WH, but my 314-8 pulled a two wheel farm type trailer loaded with 3000 pounds of wood may times out of the woods behind my place..up hill and down made no difference - I don't know, but suspect that it would pull several tons on wheels....if it ever spun the wheels I imagine it would be time to stop...

Jeff nice score , why didn't Cuz cut the field while he had it out for pictures? You know good help is hard to find.

Nice! Need to put the belt on that mower, the poor little guy is getting lost in the tall weeds.

Wondering... when can I come get it Jeff?

Thanks Glenn, good to know you'll post my bail if I ever get caught stealin horses.

This section of the huge Demystification Guide explains how the illustrations work starting on page 2-5. Two circles joined by a line (o---o) indicate a switch or relay is closed meaning power can flow through it from contact to contact. If two circles are not joined (o-/ o) the switch or relay is open so power can not flow from contact to contact. There are two pto switches. One controls the ignition and the other controls the starter. You need to use the wire colors to identify which switch does what. For the starter The ignition switch needs to power the S terminal of the ignition switch which powers the pto switch which powers the neutral switch which powers the relay coil that produces a magnet that draws the contacts in the relay closed which powers the starter. For the ignition The ignition switch needs to power the I (eye) terminal of the ignition switch which powers the pto switch which powers the seat switch which powers the ignition coil. A common problem is the 8 or 9 pin connector that joins the tractor wiring harness to the engine wiring harness. The plastic connector is white so if one of the wire connectors has overheated it leaves discoloration at that point indicating a poor electrical connection. From your description of the problem I can't tell if the starter circuit or the ignition circuit is your problem. Also make sure the ignition switch is getting battery power on the B terminal. A simple 12 volt test light is all you need. Garry

I don't have it here. It may be a while. Its just the regular pan that hangs off one side. Bolts up from underneath. Be aware that not all Kohler oil pan's are drilled for the mounting from underneath. It is put back together like any horse without the anti-vibration contraption. You can see the holes in the block hanging over the right edge of the frame. That's the side that is bolted up through the frame into the bottom of the pan.

Pull the cap off the end of the spindle , start digging in all of that grease - should be a pin , bolt or whatever was used on these later models to hold the wheel and bearings onto the spindle , simple . Keep the dirt out while repairing the tire and replace it as you found it if the bearings are in good order - otherwise get replacements and reassemble . Sarge

Ahhh man! You're wife is right!

Welcome to Red Square. Glad to have another member from Virginia. Have fun with the bushes. Take pictures we love pictures since us ole guy have forgotten all our learning and can't read anymore.

tallen4392 Are those weights on the frt of your blade if so how do u raise it up? Answer, nope if you look carefully these weights are independent of the blade and are on a weight carrier, held on by the front 'Tach a matic' point. Here's picture of the carrier - Thanks for asking C-85

Ed, the Weigh Safe is primarily intended to check for the proper 10-15% tongue weight. That helps with distributing the load properly. It is far easier than putting a scale under the jack to weigh the tongue after the trailer is loaded. It is designed to be adjustable because of the different heights of vehicles and trailers. How many times has anyone seen a trailer tongue up in the air because the ball mount doesn't have enough drop.

Here is info on ST tires. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=219

A "fish-tailing" trailer is often caused by the tongue weight being too low. Move the weight to the front. Demo I pull a travel trailer and look at how others are set up, needless to say, I keep as much distance as possible from any towed vehicle.