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Overwhelm him with your enthusiasm... & the seller should give you that tractor.

The down side to what you propose is that the normal bearings on the 3/4 axles are ball bearings and not tapered roller bearings.A ball bearing of that type is designed to take a large radial load( up and down)but is limited in axial capability(in and out).If you try to eliminate axial play with a castle nut you could overload the axial capacity of the bearing.I would recommend shims or ignoring small amounts of play as this will keep you from possibly destroying a bearing.These machines have been operated with this setup for many millions of hours and only had the tapered roller bearing upgrade to handle the greater weight of a 60" deck or loader.

Hi all, greetings from Devon (England)! I am new to this forum and I thought I'd post the restoration of my 1975 Wheelhorse C-100. I have begun some restoration work on my 1975 Wheelhorse C-100. This was my first ever mower and I have owned this tractor since I was 15 (I am now 26). It was for sale with a local garden machinery place, we have a garden/woodland on a hill and my parents had said I was allowed to buy a lawnmower on the condition it had proper/good brakes, I think they were worried because my grandfather's Lawnflite had a fairly weak brake that failed once on the hill, though luckily no damage was done. I saved up and eventually we went to a garden machinery shop and I remember seeing a red Wheelhorse outside the shop, and finding it a really nice looking machine, (and it had proper brakes!). After speaking to the owner of the place he said he had one identical but a little rough "upstairs". They kept their mowers stored in this sort of old wooden barn attic with a hydraulic lift to access, so we went up and amongst all these modern plasticy lawn-tractors was this really cool looking Wheelhorse, paint all peeling and dented, but to me it was amazing. Here's a picture of when I got it home: I repainted it in 2010 and did some repairs, and although the finish was OK, it's picked up some scratches, wear and corrosion from years of use and storage. I have decided to repaint it now, as I would like to put decals on it and really finish off the restoration. It won't be as perfect as some examples I have seen, but it should be a really good looking Wheelhorse. I also wanted to take the opportunity to remove some dents in the bonnet, it is hard to see from the picture above but someone might have crashed it or crashed something into it at one point because the grill was dented in a few places. I mostly fixed this in 2010 but I wanted to get the last little dents along the side of the grille sorted this time. Anyway, that's the story so far and I will post more photos of the restoration as it progresses Jon

$20 a pr from AutoZone. I had regular LED's in my 1267 but they really didn't cast out as much light as I needed for plowing at night. I was going to install Silverstar 1156's but then I saw these. Guy said if I didn't like them bring them back. Doesn't get real dark until late so here's an early morning shot in my back shed. I don't even have the engine running.

Searching around the site and noticed my dad's birthday still pops up. Even though he's been gone almost 5 years, still seems like yesterday. So HAPPY 74th BIRTHDAY DAD! and all of you who share the same day. May you all have a wonderful day.

Run Forest, run!!! - I just bought a 701 at the Big Show for $250 and was thrilled, even though it has a 702 hood and single pulleys (k161 engine though!). Don't worry about what it looks like now, you'll knock any ugly right off!

For $ 150 you best get over there in a hurry! Who cares if it is a 702 or 753, it is a great buy!

Skittles got some new shoes

Yes you do, here are some pictures to help you.

TJ, we need to do a little evaluation on the trans before you go ahead and open it. The difference between your trans and other 3 speed trannys is yours is called a "heavy duty" tranny. Yours uses a bevel gear differential instead of the spider gears. This will make it harder to find parts, especially if those bevel gears are bad. With your horse rear end on blocks...horse not running and transmission in neutral. Turn one of the tires in one direction 1st and then in the other direction...the other tire should be turning in the opposite direction. Repeat this process with the other tire...same thing should happen. Now have someone hold one of the tires and try to turn the other one...you should be able to turn the tire. Repeat this on the other side. If all this works and it was smooth with no jerkiness or weird noises...your differential is OK. That is good. Now, remove the belt guard and drive belt...choose a gear. Turn the input shaft (by hand) counter-clockwise. Both tires should be turning in the same direction. Try this in all gears...obviously when in reverse, the tires should spin backwards. Let us know what you find out. We have a few guys that have tranny parts for sale...not sure if they would have parts for the #5045 trans you have. @racinfool40 @A-Z Tractor Richard @953 nut Would a #5025 spider gear differential transmission bolt right into a 953?? Are the mounting bolt holes the same?? I do not know the answer to that. I do know that the #5025 is 1" axles and the #5045 has 1 1/8" axles.

Yep, $20 to $40. But, is the steering linkage locked up? Do the tires hold air? Is any of it rusted through the sheet metal. If you figure the cost to get it running, you might be better off paying a little more, and finding one in better condition. The short frames are nice, but there is always another WH around the corner. I've had to convince myself that it's better to just walk away from some projects. Good luck, and let us know the outcome. Jim

Yea $20-$40 if you really want it

$30-$50

I work in a body shop and have been a glass man and sometimes bodyman for about 30 years. What we do is tear down the vehicle and do a full estimate after the insurance company gives a half assed one. The reason they write a cheap one to start with is lots of people take the money and run. We right a supplement on top of their estimate. You really need to have a body shop or a tractor restoration shop look at the tractors. There will be more damage than just what you see. They will want to see the replacement hoods too. I am guessing they will only give the value of a restored tractor for them, not what it will cost to repair yours by a professional. Randy

Are they for the the outside upper edges? Also wanna say that I've looked at your pics a few times and I think the one hood is fixable, not for a show tractor but worth saving for a worker

Not waiting totally on the estimate. I have a hood on the way so I stopped by to see an old friend at a sheet metal shop and left with these for the hoods.

16 hours driving?? Did you switch off with buddy ? I have pictures of your secret weapon!

Jay, knowing how mush blood, sweat and tears went into making that hood a show stopper I can only imagine how sick that made you feel!

A couple of years back, I acquired a 1962 Sickle Bar. Serial number A-40719. No mule drive with it and in my wisdom I thought I'll make one and fit it to my 1979 C-81. I refurbished the Sickle bar some time ago. Unfortunately, due to my computer giving up the ghost, I can't access any photo's and Photobucket won't let me access what I have in there. I had to change my e-mail address due to Freeserve/Orange discontinuing things. There is an topic on our sister forum www. My Old Machine of the earlier work done. Last week I decided it was about time I dug things out and got stuck in. So here we go. First thing I did was make a couple of pins to mount the frame at the rear. Save messing about with nuts and boltsI know only one is shown, but I did make two. Here they are fitted. Next on the list was the mule drive. I got some plate, 22m bar, bearings and pulleys with taperlock bushes. Then measure up and fabricate the plates. Then build up the whole assembly. Below all bolted on. The sickle bar was then fitted and a way of holding it vertical solved by a ratch through my bits and bobs. One problem here was the lift lever under the tractor. Where it curved down it fouled the belt guard and top pulley. Sorted this by disconnecting it and fastening it up out of the way. A shackle and two links of chain took care of the rest. On to a clutch to mule drive belt tensioner. My first attempt was unsuccessful. I had an Idea it would be. The belt kept running of the bearing shown. That was all I could find at the time. Eventually I remembered a box of Husqvarna bits tucked away and found a suitable pulley for the idler. Here it is set up and all runs well. The next thing to do is give it a proper trial and all being well, strip down and paint. I still need to make a handle to lift up the cutter bar when down. The original fouls the footplate as it was meant for a machine that didn't have footplates.

Hello everone from central Oklahoma. Just bought a 1976 d 160 that has been stored for 20 some odd years . Going to be asking a lot of questions. Rick

Happy Birthday @meadowfield

I picked up a set of turf tires at the big show this past weekend so I was able to swap out the 23x10.50-12 super lug ags off the 1057 and onto the 854. I really like the look of the wide ags on the 854. This one will be in a 4th of July parade this weekend in upstate NY at the in laws place.

No, same oil...I used 10W30 in mine...some use synthetic 10W30...matter of preference I guess...synthetic will find leaks easier if there are any...

Thank you and to yours too. It's Something I don't think I could forget nor want to.

My dad passed away over 32 years ago, remember his birthday every year though. Happy birthday to your dad.

The front axle, fuel tank and lift assembly says it's a 63 or 64 to me. So I would say definitely not a 702. But as stated already for 150$ I'd go get it for sure.

I'm sure! It isn't worth your time, too many unknowns and probably all of them will cost additional money. I know that are not plentiful in the Chattanooga area, but I suggest you keep looking.

ok got it LOL

I ran it for 10 min tonight. The whole area gets pretty hot from the exhaust itself. I turned the lights off and kept it running for a few min more and didn't feel that the lens area cooled at all so I would say the bulbs don't get hot. I will do more testing in the next few days.

That really sucks your pride and joy took the hardest hit. I know from talking to you, that you are proud of that beautiful machine and all the hard work it took to get it like that. Unfortunately the insurance company probably treats something like this the same as the courts do when it comes to pets. Someone can kill your beloved family member and friend of 10 years and the only thing you're entitled to is what it cost as the puppy. Here's to hoping they are fair with you.

Stripped it down this morning and did a bit of painting. Put it all back together tonight and found the blade was sticking. Paint had found its way on to the slide. Removed the blade, cleaned it up, replaced and left it running for 15 minutes with a light application of thin oil. Maybe try it on some grass tomorrow all being well. It cuts paper.

I put a 10 pinion in an eight speed no problem except you g=have to have th two piece 11-48 gear. The splines have to go all the way to the big gear. The older 1 piece the splines stopped short and it will not work with the 10 pinion

We never did get to that point on the one Dells was working on, but as I recall it we figured out that any differential/bull gear set up with 1 1/8" axles would accept the 953 axles and fit. Not having actually done this I can't say for sure, but I will attempt it and document it when I get to the transmission of the early model 953 that Ed sold me. That should take place this winter.

I'm thinking your talking about this valve which is different than the standard valves laying around like here at our shop....these are for the calcium filled style tubes for RJ and Suburban etc....

I hope everything turns out well for you.

If you want spot on estimates and someone to do the work , start asking the car show folks around the area - someone will know of a body shop or guy that does this type of work on a regular basis and they are generally pretty discreet since they won't deal with modern cars and such . We have a local guy here that will remove a whole damaged rear section , repair it to new and repaint a car and you'd never know it was done , he's that good. Sarge

They are. I am going to try to save the one. It is ripped at the seam pretty bad.

Just picked this up this afternoon. Its the real deal allied attachment. A Bark Buster.

why would it be any different than any other tire valve core?

Be careful what info is posted on this thread. Insurance companies are known to look at places like this to get an idea of what to value something that is not in their "books". If you have someone who says they estimate the repairs to be $2000 dollars, and another who says $200, which one do you think they will favor? Just sayin' be aware.

The longer they play the more they may have to pay because the more people I talk to the more educated I get.

I would love to see an adaptation of the hood side decal from your Patriotic set to wrap the seat pan!

I can honestly say that spending time out in the shop has really not happened in the past 9 months. Now that I have some time off I have had a chance to pull some maintenance and go through some of the machines. First up is a 312-H that will no longer be on snow duty. This is a new full time mowing machine for my son. His first time was a huge success. He is going to finish with a nice cut after some more practice. Next up is a 518XI that has just over 500 hours that came back home to be a mowing machine for my wife. She loves having the opportunity to turn on the IPod and have some time to relax. During this time dad did a quick clean up with powder coating of the tins and a fancy new set of decals from our very own Terry Dennis aka @Vinylguy for his 522xi. Also had to make some tough choices to let go of some stuff. One of my first GT's is about to leave. Have spent a lot of time on this 312-8 but no longer have a need for it. Hopefully it will find a new home where it will be enjoyed again. Finally had a chance to grab one of my favorite machines. Here is one of my 701's that I took for a cruise and snapped some photos of. This one is such an enjoyable machine to play with. Hopefully I will be able to find some more time to dabble out in the barn. Hopefully these photos will tide you over!

Bueno hemos seguido con la restauracion despacito pero bien,esta vez a tocado preparar algo de chapa.

That hurts to look at. Glad everyone is ok and I hope you come out good on the other side. I worry about having a trailer mishap on the way. I have had some bad experiences towing trailers. Lost a boat and trailer on the interstate years ago. Weird feeling looking in the mirror and what you were towing is gone. Then to have it pass you is even worse. I can laugh about it now. All was good though in the end. Still have my job.

I found one hood. Or I should say a member with a hood found me. Just waiting for the ins companies to finish arguing about who is gonna pay me. Then the adjuster and.I may have to get in the ring. Time will tell. In the meantime all I can do is wait first them to give me the go to see the damage under the hoods. What kind can see for sure is one gas tank, 1 carb, one filter backplate and cover, one hood beyond repair and 1 hood that may be repairable. The damage to the trailer is repairable so if it gets totaled the owner is going to let me have it for the salvage price.

Sunday morning in Roanoke, Va. More pictures of 854s damage.