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We'll, I finally got around to tackling my 953 project. If you remember a member of my local tractor club approached me about some Wheel Horse tractors he needed to sell. I went to look at them and one was a CG8 and the other was a 953 that had a busted transmission and was in parts. I ended up with both for $175! Well, with the help of Buckrancher's machining skills (thanks a lot Brian!) I now have the trans back together. I worked on the original Kohler for a while and now it is running great. The wiring is trashed and I had to jump from the battery to the coil, but she is going good, drives, and works great in all gears. Next comes rewiring and getting the deck mounted. She ain't pretty, but she's mine! I'll probably break her back down and do a full repainted, but she's all original in her work clothes for now.

Dear Lord, Jay Paxton has an exploratory procedure scheduled tomorrow that needs your divine intercession. Please guide the surgeon's hands to be steady and effective to do the task at hand, and not create any further damage We pray against any infection or complications. Calm the heart of his family. Give Jay your peace so his body can heal under the best conditions. In the name of Jesus, bless him to be healthier after this procedure than before. Lord allow this temporary trial to bring this family closer to you and each other. When Jay is coming out of surgery, let the side effects be minimal. Work a miracle in this whole situation and bless it from beginning to end. Thank you Lord for your blessing on this family. We praise you as we know we are in good hands- the very hands of God. In Jesus name, we thank you for each day. Amen.

I'm bringing a good selection of items that are on my store including the new removable receiver hitches and headlight bezels and some stuff that is not listed yet like ------- Reproduction dual wheel spacers for 6 x 12 rims with new bolts Drag links and tie rod for 953/1054 Sickle mower parts -lift link,travel hook and bracket and skid shoe.

Thanks again evryone. Just left the hospital. All is good. No further surgery required.

Seat is on finally!

For anyone wondering what the inside of the original backrests looks like.... I've made a new plywood insert, transferred the T nuts, reapplied the factory foam and put it back together. My cover split on the backside under the metal bracket so I think we can sew the bottom back together and with some staples and duct tape, I can make it work. 99% of the cover damage will be hidden behind the back brace.

hi guys and gals im new to this forum and a new owner to a used 1970 wheelhorse electro 12 model # 1-7255 i paid 20$ for it off some guy knew nothing about it nor did i try and see if it ran. what caught my attention was the hydraulic deck lift and i wanted it!!! so i brought it home cleaned everything up to find out mickey mouse had a nest behind the gas tank and a few wires were chewed. i also noticed a few switches and a flasher relay in there. I think someone hacked it all up. and i dont think this tractor had any of them but i want to get rid of the useless garbage and re wire this whole thing the way its suppose to be. ive searched everywhere and cant find a wiring diagram anywhere!!! also maybe someone can tell me what these controls do? i know the big white switch is head lights and obviously the key is ignition and start and the big knob to the left is the choke but thats all i know. the little metal switch is an on/off switch to what i dont know and the one next to it is a 3 position switch in to i dont know. and the white in the top right has a flasher relay connected to it. If someone can tel me what belongs there and what doesnt i think it will make more sence. Like if there doesnt need to be a fuse in the circuit like the 69 charger diagram ive been seeing then ill re wire it accordingly. But then i see brake lights in a diagram its all a mess! I dont know what belongs and what doesnt im also missing misc. parts like the mule drive which i know, boogey wheels and im missing a cover that goes ontop of where the shifter would go if it was a 3-4 speed. can anyone tell me what the plate is called so i can try and find it on ebay? thanks for your help i will answer any questions oupload any pictures you want to help better your response by the way!!!! this has a foot throttle conversion before anyone says anything about the trottle missing. it does have the electric pto. and i know the fuse holder is broken.

Sunday i leave my home with my trailer in tow to buy a non running C series tractor, 42 inch deck & Plow for 700 dollars,its a 18 horse twin Kohler. i'm a NEWBIE on here but not to Garden tractors, i have a chance now to buy a 516H, which way should a 57 year old Horse nut go, i can only get 1 this week, be easy on ole Fred

I have one to add here . I picked up this # # four today on CL for a little more than scrap. It has a surprisingly good set of Town&Countrys and the front wheels which look to be the longer hubs for my Suburban. The former owner found a carpenters solution to mounting a different engine.

Would Andy Granatelli steer you wrong?

Since you are not using hardener in your paint you need to give it a few days to cure, put them on too soon and the paint may loose adhesion. Those days of delay are working in your favor!

If you have a cap on the outside you may not see it come out but in any case it's going to take the path of least resistance once the cavity is full. I've had it come out the inside, the outside and both and it's never been consistent. As long as you grease them regularly you'll be fine. I'm sorta in the middle of a test right now. On a non-worker I've always used sealed bearings so I didn't mess things up with grease. Last summer I got a great price on quality sealed bearings in bulk. My main mowing tractor needed them so I cleaned the cavity out and used them it that one. I'll see how long they last. I just got my 1976 "B-160" I purchased new back and I'm going to put them in that too. I only had a half acre in Florida but now I mow something over 2 acres so it will really be a test.

God is the best surgeon there is. Prayers sent, get well.

Hey Richard! Yup, Emory says she is his favorite horse so far. I'm sure that will change once I get one of his lawn rangers going though!

I'm uncomfortable pushing the absolute maximum with a vehicle nearing 150k miles even though I try to keep up with maintenance. For instance I proactively changed out all front brake lines but have not yet done that on rear. They may be fine but I don't want to break pushing maximums. From several sources the amounts for my vehicle runs from 7,700-8,700 So I feel this one allows me to haul several round hoods or what have you comfortably.

Here's the rest of the pics from the ad for WH2 BTW:

He will Ole Red..if he gets rid of that crusty tractor someone wants him to haul out out ther for him! Have fun fellas

Well, I bit the bullet and bought a dedicated horse hauler. I have not seen it mentioned in this thread so I'll tag my experience in on this for others to compare. I am planning on using U-POL Raptor. I'll post up pics of before and after but for now, just the trailer as noted in the WIMM "what's in my mirror" thread.

You kind of gave us half the information on both of them. Is the non running "C" an eight speed or hydro? Is the Kohler just not running or has it thrown a rod. I would bring some jumper cables and some starter fluid and expect to have good compression on both cylinders and perhaps an attempt to fire. Is the 516 H running? A non running Onan can be a money pit and if it won"t run you can't test the transmission. I would be hard pressed to pay more than $ 300 for a non running Hydro because you have no idea what the condition of the transmission is.

almost to stopping point lol

The best way to check out the transmission is to drive it around until warmed up then chain it to a tree and see if it will dig in in both directions. The fact that it has been setting for a while shouldn't have hurt it, looks like it was well cared for and stored inside. The fact that it hasn't had a loader on it is a plus in my book, lots of loader tractors are worked hard and will require more parts replacement.

Thank you for the prayer Richard. Jay

Unless you ABSOLUTELY have to have the FEL right now I would jump on #2 in a hurry! The Kohler engine is worth the $ 1500, you get the rest for free! You should be able to pick up a loader for around $ 1500 later on.

This is my first time plowing and tilling. 1991 520h has almost 2400hr on it. Garden is 30ft x 44ft. I know it's late but we plan on getting good sized plants to start off. I hit some gravel, layer of plastic and even some paver stone of some sort so I'm guessing this section that I hit them (toward the fence on the left at the end of the rows) was used for something in the past. I had top go back to the starting point of plowing and plow that up as I didn't drop the plow in the same spot the first few rows... Plow... Tiller...

See you at the Big Show!

I have a 2000 1500 Silverado with a little over 264,000 that I pull an 18' flatbed and a 30' RV.

Prayers sent, In Jesus name. Amen

Prayers just sent your way.

Glad to hear you got the transmission mess worked out. Never know what the heck was in the mind of some previous owners. As you know I have a fondness for 953s, I see Emory seems to like it too!

Don't mean to be harsh, but all of that wiring needs to go in the dumpster! Take a look at this 1985 wiring diagram and you will have the basics worked out. If you eliminate the seat and pedal interlock switches and hour meter/volt meter which your unit never had and add a 20 amp fuse off the accessory terminal of the key switch followed by a switch to the PTO it should get you in business.

Welcome to the forum. The 1970 Electro 12 originally had breakerless magneto ignition and it appears your engine has been replaced with one using battery ignition so we need to do some searching for an appropriate wiring diagram. See if you can find the identification letters on the back of the ignition switch for each terminal. The Kohler spec number on the engine would also help to determine what charging system you have.

It's a Ez Hauler. Aluma or Alco in Maine makes them for 3-4 trailer companies who brand them but all made at same locale. EDIT (Actually it is manufactured by "ALCOM ") 17 seems to be popular these days. At least out this way. With the blunted vnose it adds another foot or so. So you could get away with saying it's 18 but it's a stretch. All metal, aluminum, chrome and most stainless is attacked by the chemicals they use these days. i plan to undercoat the underside but also plan to use a protectant wax on the exposed aluminum. See pic. It gets pretty good reviews. If the dealer had had spares of those upgraded wheels like yours I'd likely have bought that upgrade. Mine are powder coated steel with bearing buddies. So they should be ok in the salt/snow at least for a while. It is not a case for aluminum vs steel in my case. Ultimately it might be but in my case with a 1500 my truck hits its recommend limit well before either designed trailer's max. As such, a 1000 pounds lighter trailer means 1000 pounds of more tractor and parts I can haul. Also. Axles as spring 3500's And I would note that it is what I deem my 2006 tired 1500's limit is. Ordinarily new fresh 1500 may haul it at max load....

Thanks everyone! So I figure I will bring a tow strap to check the tranny (hopefully they have trees). Is it worth doing a compression check on it? From what I can find from a few mins of googling I'm looking for ~110-120psi on a cylinder. Hopefully not a weird thread or plug size. @ Caddy... let me check out your wares

Right now, it's looking like we'll get to come!!!! Didn't think we would since my Dad is going to have to have prostate surgery, but that has been scheduled for July 6th. He had a knee replacement last July 5th - he can't seem to catch a break. Emory is dying to come and I am too, even the wife enjoyed it last year! Keep your fingers and toes crossed!!!!

which is the clutch pulley? AND...

I know these pictures are horrible, because I'm upside down underneath the tractor trying to take them, but I see the guides that I think you are talking about, but all they do is keep the belt from falling off, there is nothing to pull the belt away from the engine?

You are right cast iron can be welded, but welding cast iron is not for the novice or inexperienced welder. Time adds its own value to the task involved and the time involved in welding cast iron by old time methods certainly increases the cost of that process.

I can hardly wait for the winter episode where he gangs a bunch of walk behind snow blowers and pulls them down the road.

Wondering what a C 120 Auto would be worth? It is my second WH but I don't want to keep this one. I bought it in a package deal with a nice Tiller, blade and 36" SD deck. It has the Tecumseh HH120 12hp motor and it has a terrible knock and smokes pretty good. Going to pull the head off and see if I can figure out what it is for sure. The hydro seems okay on it. The right axle seal is leaking. I have a 36" SD deck or a 36" RD deck I could include with it. Both in very good condition. The seat that is in the pic does not go with it. I am switching it out with the one off my C 101 I originally was going to part it out but some of you talked me out of it. I would rather sell it whole and see someone get her going good.

I painted the timing marks while i had the head off and the T mark coincided with TDC. I used the ohm meter approach to determine the point at which the points opened. With a .020 setting they opened after TDC. I had to keep opening them to over.030 to get it to open at the S mark. I have ordered the 47 411 04 plunger, will be interesting to see if it is a different length than the one in the tractor. The points on the points on the tractor were opening after TDC that is why i put on new ones. Still had to open them way up. My supposition is that at some point a PO replaced the points with the newer ones but not the plunger.. if you look the original points 47 150 01 show as NLA and replaced by 47 150 03. There is no mention there about the need to replace the plunger on older engines (pre 1983). (Only the little note I found in the K241 parts manual.) When the new plunger arrives I will measure the two and report back... I wonder if the same issue impacts 12-16 hp singles???l

Here she is waiting for the new tires. I got the bagger working last week and rigged up a new cable to hold the chute to the mower deck. I could use another one of these plastic hub caps. Dealer said it's part number 109154 and is discontinued. Anyone know where I can buy one?

The method I have used is not dependent on the .020" at all, The collapsing field in the coil is initiated the moment the points open, the point gap is only a starting point, not a destination. Here is the text of the method I use (after the meter is connected and initial setting of .020"). Now, rotate the engine SLOWLY by hand in the direction of normal rotation. When the points just begin to break, the meter will fluctuate from zero resistance to infinite resistance. When this fluctuation occurs, stop rotating the engine, and look in the sight hole to see where the "S" mark is. If you did it right, the "S" mark should be centered in the sight hole at this time. If it isn't, vary the point gap ever so slightly to either side and repeat until the "S" mark is centered in the sight hole when the points just begin to break. When this is accomplished, tighten the adjustment screw on the points, bracing the adjustable contact with a flat screwdriver to avoid changing the timing when tightening the screw. (Yes, I know you can't see the timing mark in the hole on my picture...it's hard enough to shine a light and see it, let alone have it show up on a camera. I tried.) Ironically, this engine was timed perfectly with the points gapped at 0.020", but I want to emphasize that this is HIGHLY UNUSUAL. Most engines will not run right with the points gapped at 0.020".

Interesting Paul. I can't help with the plunger length, but it looks like you found the problem. If all else fails, shorten the plunger rod 0.010".

im getting a shed hopefully this week. Considered building one but this time of year extra time is scarce and we are still unpacking from the move 3 weeks ago. Anyway I had to get 2 1/2 yards (just under 5k lbs) of 3/4 stone. I'd heard these tractors move material very well, I knew it pushed snow great. So I dumped half the load out and graded it out with my 3/12. Made short work of it pushed the heavy pile with ease, impressive.

Used the C-141 for grading my carport project this spring. 's move dirt well.

I would still fill it with diesel fuel as 953 nut said and let it sit for a week or more, drain and refill with fresh diesel fuel and let sit for a couple more weeks. You will be amazed at what soaking things in diesel fuel will accomplish in a few weeks.

primer laid down. the dash tower has a cotton weed blow on it. one reason why i hate painting outside. but ill get it off tomorrow before shooting red. on the dash tower hanging on clothes line i put jb weld in has a filler due to major pitting, and i hate bondo so i heard of people using it so figured give it a shot and i didnt sand the jb weld down but looks good.the tower holding the tank is the 702 parts machine tower and its in need of alot of welding lol

got the rims sanded and primered and one side painted. rustoliums gloss white this is a quick repaint. just to freshen it up. dads wearing a mask and helping out with a drill and the black wheel. hes on blood thinner (due to blood clot) so i wont let him near wire wheel

@wheelhorseman