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Dear Lord, Jay Paxton has an exploratory procedure scheduled tomorrow that needs your divine intercession. Please guide the surgeon's hands to be steady and effective to do the task at hand, and not create any further damage We pray against any infection or complications. Calm the heart of his family. Give Jay your peace so his body can heal under the best conditions. In the name of Jesus, bless him to be healthier after this procedure than before. Lord allow this temporary trial to bring this family closer to you and each other. When Jay is coming out of surgery, let the side effects be minimal. Work a miracle in this whole situation and bless it from beginning to end. Thank you Lord for your blessing on this family. We praise you as we know we are in good hands- the very hands of God. In Jesus name, we thank you for each day. Amen.

Working on building the 953 Diesel into a beastly plow tractor. I just made a few brackets for some weights in the front and rear. I also picked up a Wheel Horse 12" plow. It was in excellent condition and I thought a great price for a 12". Now I'm looking into converting to a 5/8" belt because pulling a 10" with no weight it was eating up the stock 1/2" belt. Anybody that wants to give me any tips on the belt conversion or anything I should add let me know.

I was waiting for him to back it into the shed when he finished mowing.

Why would anyone who owns a want to reduce their seat time?

I've mowed with, or been around a lot of machines over the years. I never payed much attention to the speed the decks run at -- only cared about the quality of the cut they turned out and the reliability. To my way of thinking, slower blade speeds probably result in less pulley and spindle bearing heat and wear over time. Possibly less wear and tear on belts, too. If the cutting performance of the deck is efficient and smooth at a lower blade speed, then that's fine with me. What matters is how the grass looks when you're done. I kind of suspect that was what the Wheel Horse engineers had in mind as they designed their decks. I grew up near South Bend... there were lots of engineers and machinists employed in the area at one time. Even though Studebaker had closed down, other industries locally and further away relied on the area's machine shops and smaller industrial contractors. I learned quite a bit from the "old heads" -- while modern engineering focuses on designing things to meet a set of qualifications -- and not one bit more -- the older guys followed the principle that things had to not only do the work, but last reasonably while doing it. Downtime and repairs cost money. So things were designed not to risk needlessly tearing themselves apart over time in the first place, and be straightforward to maintain and repair when they did need work. Why design a mower deck that will mow like crazy but spin itself to death, when you can design it to run slower and smoother to last longer and still leave a golf-course-quality cut? A different way to look at efficiency. New ways aren't always all they're cracked up to be... OK, old-guy rant over...

My plan to downsize is not working out too well.

Thank you everyone. All is in God's hands now. (With a little help from the surgeon.)

Well, I bit the bullet and bought a dedicated horse hauler. I have not seen it mentioned in this thread so I'll tag my experience in on this for others to compare. I am planning on using U-POL Raptor. I'll post up pics of before and after but for now, just the trailer as noted in the WIMM "what's in my mirror" thread.

You kind of gave us half the information on both of them. Is the non running "C" an eight speed or hydro? Is the Kohler just not running or has it thrown a rod. I would bring some jumper cables and some starter fluid and expect to have good compression on both cylinders and perhaps an attempt to fire. Is the 516 H running? A non running Onan can be a money pit and if it won"t run you can't test the transmission. I would be hard pressed to pay more than $ 300 for a non running Hydro because you have no idea what the condition of the transmission is.

I just looked at the muffler I got from @jimkemp and I think it will work great. Jim for the excellent product. I really like how the holes are drilled all around the end where the chrome piece goes to allow for adjustment

Most of those land in my back yard:-)

Higher blade tip speeds can help with modern mulching deck and blade combinations. The speed improves the ability for the clippings to be held under the deck and re-cut several times while they're suspended in the vacuum effect. But neither the decks nor blades from the last century were designed to work that way. The older decks were meant to snip off the clippings and throw them out of the way as quickly as possible. In fact, from reading Red Square, I've come across several reports that modern "gator" mulching blades don't work all that well on the old-school Wheel Horse deck design -- they work best with the OEM blade profile which is a "high-lift" design -- it creates a wind tunnel effect to stand the grass up straight so it can be snipped off in one swipe by the blade and then ejected. Trouble is, it's a little counter-intuitive but blade speed seems to reach a point of diminishing returns with the older high-lift design. You'd think that more speed = more lift because it will move the air faster. But grass blades will only stand up so quickly, particularly on a thick lawn. Not to mention that as the mower moves forward, there's a boundary effect as the moving wall of air hits the grass just ahead of the blade, which can flatten it down momentarily -- exactly what you don't want to happen. It'll just cause as many "misses" as it will "hits" between blade and grass at the front, and the back of the blade sweep (which is supposed to be set about 1/8" higher than the front of the sweep) will wind up doing more of the cutting. Since the back is 1/8" higher, the cut height will be off. In practical terms, some of your grass will get cut 1/8" higher than the rest, leading to an overall more uneven cut. The thicker the grass, the more noticeable it will be. If any of your blades are out of balance, higher speeds will increase vibration and shorten the life of spindles and bearings. That's not a big deal on modern "throwaway" equipment. But eating Wheel Horse spindles could get costly. You might get better results by leaving blade speed alone and stacking a second blade at a 90-degree angle on each spindle. Some folks have tried this and reported good results. The second blade does cut a bit taller than the one at the bottom of the stack, but it helps ensure that stubborn grass gets cut one way or another. The lower blade edge should have less work to do and just provides the "finished" cut height. Stacked blades do put more rotating weight on the spindles and bearings -- be sure to keep them greased. The starting load on the engine will be greater, but once the extra mass is rotating, it should have enough inertia that it ought to help keep the engine from bogging down on thick grass as long as you keep travel speed under control. It also goes without saying that keeping the blades properly balanced is critical, since a stacked configuration adds more potential balance problems. The short of it is, other folks have experimented along these lines and it keeps coming back that Wheel Horse's engineers did an outstanding job -- there's not a lot of room for any noticeable improvement if a deck is properly leveled and the blades are sharpened and balanced. There's a limit to how fine a non-mulching deck will leave clippings. Grass that likes to bend down when mowed or has too many stalks for seed heads doesn't cut well with either a mulching or non-mulching deck in a single pass -- problem lawns have to be mowed with only 2/3 to 1/2 of the deck over the uncut grass, and leave more of the blade sweep to clean up the edge of the cut swath. And you'll probably have to adjust travel speed. The real time-saver is a wider deck in those cases. Just my , but you'll probably have better luck working with the existing design rather than against it.

Maybe this was just debris that blew in from the 2016 WHCC Show.

I guess I live in the south pole

You are killing me! I drove 125 miles (one way) to pick up a last week and considered it close by. Guess I live in a desert and you live in a rain-forest!

Another one mile road trip today.

We'll, I finally got around to tackling my 953 project. If you remember a member of my local tractor club approached me about some Wheel Horse tractors he needed to sell. I went to look at them and one was a CG8 and the other was a 953 that had a busted transmission and was in parts. I ended up with both for $175! Well, with the help of Buckrancher's machining skills (thanks a lot Brian!) I now have the trans back together. I worked on the original Kohler for a while and now it is running great. The wiring is trashed and I had to jump from the battery to the coil, but she is going good, drives, and works great in all gears. Next comes rewiring and getting the deck mounted. She ain't pretty, but she's mine! I'll probably break her back down and do a full repainted, but she's all original in her work clothes for now.

Nice trailer @Aldon !! Here's mine, I highly recommend a checkered floor, it really makes the inside pop!

Amen ... thoughts and prayers sent

Prayers Hank

7x17 EZ Hauler, All Aluminum No bunk beds.....yet:-) Trailer won't likely make it to show. Between monsoon season and much greater business travel than ideal the last 6 weeks, I really don't have much to bring to show this year. I'll spend next couple weeks setting the trailer up for the long term. Bedliner and EZ track etc. Once it's set up I'll be in fat city though for meet and greets and shows.

...and no deck on the ??? WTF...kind of contraption is that?

Like? The twisters must be pretty strong up your way. All my crap is still in my yard lol

You guys and that fella has all got wayyyyy too much time on your hands!

He put some thought in how he connected those. The crazy thing tracks nice. Sorta like the trams at Disney.

Whats the fun in downsizing???

These wheels were used on the commercial duty 48 inch mowers such as model 05-48SC01 often paired with a 418-C or 520-HC tractor. The part number for the wheel is 111173.

Selling my original 550 suburban, @wheelhorseman1000 has agreed to transport it to the show. $800 includes the ride. PM me if you have questions.

Hey All,First post! I have been casually looking for a tractor to help me move dirt and prep part of the yard for a new lawn. Ideally I'd have both a FLE and a plow but since I am looking at rear tine tillers as well, a PTO/tiller would also be a nice to have.I am checking out three local offerings: {link removed}This D200 has an FLE and a bunch of interesting stuff, and seems reasonable in price (comparatively){link removed}This D200 looks a little rougher but has a lot of useful stuff, plow/PTO/tiller but no FLE{link removed}This D180 looks nice, has an FLE but not much else, and is much higher in price (and a smaller bucket than option 1)I have seen plows and some other stuff for individual sale but no FLE's yet, so it comes down to which one seems like the best value, and how hard it is to find an FLE if I go for option 2. I'm literally just starting learning about the line now (was looking at Economys and Fords before), so hopefully you guys more in the know about the WH line can offer some guidance and advice.Thanks for any help!

Sent here as well

Agreed in Jesus Name

Prayers on the way!

The C series sounds high to me. Do you know the model and if it is a hydro or 8 speed?

And X-2

Being optimistic I made reservations today for Thursday and Friday should be at the show early Thursday.

Much nicer looking than mine! Here is a snapshot of the brace on my stack. A bar runs from the frame up to the cross-member going to the grill, The electric fuel pump is on it and a brace for the stack.

Thanks... that was quick! Ok in absence of links I can post some descriptions (hopefully the names to pics come through) WH1 D200 FEL - asking 3200 for all - "Runs and drives great, tires hold air and have good tread. comes with wheel weights, 3 pt hitch, rear pto, and a mowing deck if i get asking price, deck has a few holes but cuts and works. Has rare turning brakes. Loader is strong, quick, and doesn't need anything. If you don't know what this machine is and want to low ball pass on, no need to get rid of it. I will separate the loader from the tractor and sell tractor separately. Give me 2800 and you get the tractor with no deck, no turning brakes and no rear pto. Again, runs and drives great, starts immeaditly, new carb kit, coil, switch, points, and condensor. Turn Key! everything works. Let me know. I will sell tractor with or without loader, but WILL NOT SELL LOADER WITHOUT TRACTOR. " My note - the only thing I don't like about this one is ags vs turf tires - trying to keep what's good on my lawn in tact lol WH2 D200 - asking 1500 for all - "My Aunt has finally decided to part with my Uncle's 1976 Wheel Horse D-200 Automatic Lawn & Garden Tractor. He purchased it new and it has not been used in many years. It does start, seems to run well and moves back and forth... Kohler 20hp engine. Comes with Owner's manual. Has Rear PTO, 3-point hitch and comes with the 48" mower deck, Transmission cooling fan, 56" Snow/Dozer Blade, and Tiller attachment. Pictures give you a good idea of what is there. Can be seen at my workplace in Berlin CT during business hours. $1500.00" WH3 D180 FEL (the one w/ the cab) - asking 4700 obo - Wheelhorse D180 garden tractor with cab. Heavy duty, beautiful, classic machine, very well cared for and always garaged. Also includes doors for cab that aren't shown. Great show piece or ready to work. Bucket loader, rear PTO, 3 pt hitch, new tires this year, with chains. Thanks again!!!

Looks good, hope you put a brace on that tall stack! The cast alum block isnt gonna like all that weight hung off of the exhaust manifold area! Cant wait to see video of it rolling coal pulling that plow. Mike

I can hardly wait for the winter episode where he gangs a bunch of walk behind snow blowers and pulls them down the road.

With a deck on the Horse it would have taken less time than it took to hook all that up.

An ole F_ _ _ with too much time on his hands. What happens when one dies in the middle ? I thought I had seen every thing ! He needs a couple of rear few mirrors .

A few more items I could bring.... 414-8 roller $150 Sold 1-48" SD side drive deck project shell has been patched, spindles feel OK. $40 2- 42" SD side drive decks only rust thru is at the right rear wheel mount. $60 each The one on the right has been sold 1- 42" RD deck parts $20 2-36" RD decks for parts $20 pair 1 hood $10 1 seat / fender pan $40 3- spindles with wheels and tires $20 each 1- Sundstrand hydro with lift cyl and valve $100 SOLD SOLD Gas tanks metal $30 ea plastic under the seat tanks $15 ea air cleaner cover, base plate and filter $20 The air cleaner is sold left pedal $10 PTO lever $5 mid attach-a-matic $15 sleeve hitch w pin $40 amp meters $20 each dash plates w/ cables and switches $20 ea lift parts rock shaft $15 adj-a-matic $10 cable, sheath, clevis $10 Double "D" deck parts double pulley $30 single pulley $20 spindles $20 ea deck parts $10 choice

It does track nice, but I think I would've set them up in a V formation. More like a gang set up for reel mowers.

I painted the timing marks while i had the head off and the T mark coincided with TDC. I used the ohm meter approach to determine the point at which the points opened. With a .020 setting they opened after TDC. I had to keep opening them to over.030 to get it to open at the S mark. I have ordered the 47 411 04 plunger, will be interesting to see if it is a different length than the one in the tractor. The points on the points on the tractor were opening after TDC that is why i put on new ones. Still had to open them way up. My supposition is that at some point a PO replaced the points with the newer ones but not the plunger.. if you look the original points 47 150 01 show as NLA and replaced by 47 150 03. There is no mention there about the need to replace the plunger on older engines (pre 1983). (Only the little note I found in the K241 parts manual.) When the new plunger arrives I will measure the two and report back... I wonder if the same issue impacts 12-16 hp singles???l

Finally! The answer to where all those greenhouse gases have been coming from...

Are you talking about the spot where the rod goes thru the spindle? If so it sounds like the hole is slightly enlarged. If you were to go around the surface of the tie rod where it's supposed to mate to the spindle with a prick punch it will expand the surface and help it grab the spindle. Also pushing down on the rod,squeezing the boot and using an impact gun helps too.

Here she is waiting for the new tires. I got the bagger working last week and rigged up a new cable to hold the chute to the mower deck. I could use another one of these plastic hub caps. Dealer said it's part number 109154 and is discontinued. Anyone know where I can buy one?

Me and my dad will be there early friday looking forward to buying some stuff for my 401 i restored after getting the bug for a round hood after my dad made me take him for fathers day lol. Was my first time and it was great! it was like his 5th time haha