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Well.... the sickle bar is on the 701. Still have some minor issues. Right side foot rest is siezed in place and currently hitting the sickle bar which is preventing it from being lifted. Ordered the new belts but drive belt for motor is way to long. Missing the bar and bracket that holds the sickle in upright position. Will need those dimensions if anyone has them. The skid plate won't go on as I think someone has replaced the drive pulley which is slightly larger. But, overall it looks very cool. Doubt I'll ever use it though..... Was able to get the new seat and back rest on as well that came from David Rice . The seat patina doesn't quite match but the back rest frame and pad match almost perfectly.

...seen this one before, just noticed, it's for sale again. Search Boston's C/L, "Wheelhorse" one word.

I thought I would post some pics of a welding table I fabricated a couple years ago. I built it with 4, locking casters, so I could roll it around (outside) if I wanted to and still have air and electrical outlets to run my grinders and die grinders anywhere in the shop or outside if I want. I mounted me chop saw so that it sits flush with the table so I can feed stock into it. I also mounted a vise to it that's pinched on the table and it can be moved around the table. I mounted a pipe vise at one end also that can be moved if desired. The top is 1/2" thick and I left gaps to accommodate moving things around and clamping material down during set up. I have all my clamps and grinders hung on a rail on one end and I have my plasma cutter sitting in the center with a catch pan above that slides out for cleaning off slag, but also serves as a protector above my plasma cutter. I plan on building in a drawer only tool box on the other end to store my die grinders and accessories, along with some common tooling needed when welding and fabricating. Below you can see my pvc 36" tig rod storage containers that fit nicely on the bottom rack. They are all marked for size and filler rod type. Note. I have my HF Minnie tire changer temporarily mounted to the top because I have been mounting and un mounting tires during the RJ restoration project I have been working on. It is mounted using pinch type hold downs between the table top slots.

Changed out the exhaust on my C-125 a while back. Not only was the muffler the previous owner installed ugly, it also had a nasty habit of blowing exhaust fumes directly in the operator's face. Looks, sounds, and functions much better now

A starting circuit draws more than 25 amps so the fuse that's blowing is un-realted to the starter itself. You have a short. Could be in the solenoid if it only happens when the key is turned to start. Most likely the wire from the key switch that runs thru the safety switches to the solenoid is chafed somewhere. A bad ground will not blow a fuse unless what's badly grounded ends up grounding thru something else that's connected to the fuse. The diagram Gary provided shows a 15 amp fuse in the circuit. If the diagram is correct someone put a bigger fuse in trying to solve a problem. The starter current is all handled by the battery cables. They are capable of handling 200 amps so I think you have a starter motor problem (noise) and a starter control (small wire from switch blowing the fuse) problem.

I guess I now "officially" own a 1968 Raider 9/10 (some had "9" and some had "10" decals?), while digging through the boxes of piece parts, I found the ID tag for it. Since I have the tag, it moved from parts donor to future restore. It will take some work, the head stand has major stress cracks, and is missing the lower mounting plate on the left side (broken off). The original engine is in a box of parts, and the solid state ignition is shot. No steering wheel, no seat, none of the dash components. Broken hub welded to the left rear axle 😡. Does have fully functioning 6 speed transaxle, decent fender pan with the correct tail light, original dash panel plate, best fitting hood I have seen yet, 0 play front axle and steering gear, and what appears to be the complete speed attachment plates and bell crank assembly for a 1968 42"SD deck (no deck). So, Model # 1-6931, Serial # 466813 (decal marked as a Raider 10) is back from the dead. As a side note, I bought this whole collection of parts (mix of Raider 10 and Commando 8 stuff and three engines, for $150 primarily for the set of vintage General Tire AG tires in the picture for my 854 restore.

My wife couldn't believe I actually bought a that had paint on it and didn't need to be rebuilt! It came with a 42" RD deck and will become my go-to mower.

Garry, that diagram doesn't have a 25 amp fuse in it Mike, The bendix drive on your starter could be in need of cleaning and a bit of graphite lubrication (don't use oil)! When looking for for a short I use a 12 volt test light in place of the fuse. As long as the short is present the light will continue to be illuminated, when you clear it the light will go out. There was a 314-8 in 1993, here is the manual

Made the three hour trip to Knoxville TN to pick up a beautiful 310-8 from @Ken_in_TN, nice and a great guy too.

The B-100 is probably the most simple wiring of all the battery ignition tractors out there. First, as has already been said, check your wires connected to the battery, the regulator/rectifier, ammeter, and ignition switch. Start with the ground wire and make sure that it's clean and tight to the (-) lug of the battery, and to the connection at the engine bolt/frame. Then check the positive cable. Clean and tight at the battery, then check where it hooks to the starter solenoid. At this junction, you will also find a smaller red wire going to one side of the ammeter. From the other side of the ammeter, a green wire goes to the B (battery) terminal of the ignition switch. Now, find the regulator/rectifier. That's the ribbed aluminum device sticking partially out of the hood stand as you are sitting on the seat. On the back of that is a connector with three wires, one orange (if original) and two white, which are coming from under the flywheel of the engine. The orange wire is where the 13.5 to 14.5 VDC comes from to charge the battery. The two white wires (marked AC on the R/R) are from the stator (alternator) under the flywheel. They should read approximately 38 to 48 VAC when the engine is running a half to full throttle. But you only need to check that if you don't have the correct DC voltage needed to charge the battery coming from the orange wire. AFTERTHOUGHT... needless to say, if the battery has a bad cell, you can charge it until next week and it still won't hold a charge.

Hi all! First I want to say thanks for letting me join this forum, it's helped me many times before. I've had a long love for wheelhorses, ever since riding on my uncles 71 commando 800 as a kid. Now I own that tractor, and a 75 B-100, which I use regularly. I look forward to learning a lot more from you guys!

I finally got one. 😀It looks to be a 1997 520H with 630 hrs on it. Back fins were clean and free of any gunk no leaking from underneath, haydro oil was full and clean. Also came with a 44 in two stage blower. just two spots with surface rust on the tractor. Pictures below I am excited to get my kwik way on it but first I want to do a full comprehensive maintenance on it and mow a few times just to make sure all is well. I am excited to join the group now what to get next 🤔 It also came with most of the manuals, front plastics not chrome hub caps as well below are a few more pictures

I just picked up an '86, 417-8 that was having the same problem. the PO had put in a new solenoid, and key switch and gave up trying to fix it. I looked and found the solenoid was just sitting there kind of loose on one bolt and the battery cables were not all that tight either. snugged everything down and problem solved! I would check all the grounds

@onanparts.com I for one like the Onan, if the only damage is the piston and rod, I would fix the engine.

Sometimes, one really wonders "why" would someone do that? Here are some recent examples, let's see yours! 1 & 2, let's add plates inside the head stand gas tank mount, for no apprent reason! 3, let's drill holes in the frame for a motormount, don't use them, and weld it down instead! 4, not quite sure where the motor mount holes should be, so let's just cut slots in the frame! 5 & 6, dang it, I hate throwing away that broken wheel hub, let's just weld it to the end of the axle (who cares if it is straight)!

Definitely a bad cable! This is the (new toro replacement) of the #108144 cable - WOW -- they looked cheaply made online and now this confirms it and notice the unprotected ball end - the cable will eventually start to fray/break by the clevis from wear/ vibration - for comparison here is a picture of the one I make (just like wheel horse did)!!!!!

That is a very good looking tractor, congrats!

Uh oh..

this may help.

Does your B-100 have an ammeter...some do. If so what does it show while running? If no meter then follow Ed's advice on clean connections and making sure the regulator is grounded. Still no go... follow the wiring harness from the rectifier towards the engine. There will be a connector, open it find the two white wires from the engine. Use your multimeter on AC and check voltage on those wires while engine is running should have at least 30 volts. If not come back for more tests

Check and clean all the connections on the ignition switch, the reg/ rectifier, fuse blocks, battery cables, and grounds. Make sure the R/R has a good ground where bolted to the tractor. Oh, to the

Certainly check all the wiring and grounds as stated above. If you have suspicions there is something catching and rubbing the flywheel and / or starter, I would pull the starter and tin off to check this out before attempting to start it.

Gee, nobody recommends a cheap steering wheel puller. Pulls the bearing plate off in a few seconds without screwing up anything. Also, if you can scrape off a piece of the old gasket, measure its thickness, you will know what the thickness of the new gasket/shim package will most likely be. You still need to check, but usually it is the same.

I responded to a CL ad for WH parts over near Pittsburgh PA. This is what he had - "Wheel Horse Raider10 10 hp Tecumseh engine torn down cleaned and ready to rebuild. Also another 10hp Techumseh torn down for parts, and an 8 hp Tecumseh that runs. Also a whole other tractor I believe to be a Commander 8. The only thing missing is the rear end". Besides the two tractors and engines, he is including everything in the pictures. Besides the Raider 10 with the high/low tranny, the number of tires and rims included caught my eye. Plus, the Raider 10 is sitting on a nice looking set of AG tires and rims. Got the whole lot for $150, supposed to drive over and pick everything up this Saturday. The Commando 8 does have the rear end, he said someone tried to open up the case, but I am going to pick it up as well just to see if any usable parts left in it. It also looks like someone cut slots in the Commando 8 frame for some reason. If I decide to salvage the frame, I will weld in a backer piece and fill the slots and redrill the mounting holes. Thought it was a pretty good deal for the money.

if you have any starter drag at all it takes that much more juice to move it creating heat and friction and resistance and resulting overloading the circuit and blowing fuses in a lot of cases......but anyways check all your wiring back to the starter and solenoid and battery check all connections thoroughly start at the ignition and check for anything bare or chaffed showing through then if you can't find anything from there take the starter right out and bench test take apart clean it up if you can take some emery cloth clean up the armature or the area where the brushes rub make it shine also check the bearing too make sure its not binding

While I was digging through the boxes of piece parts last night, this is what I came across. The ID plate for a Model 1-6931, Serial #466813, which is a 1968 Raider 9 (odd because they had a 10hp Tecumseh and some they had either Raider 9 or Raider 10 decals). So, I guess this means that I am obligated to do a restore for this one since it made it into my possesion. So, once I finish the repair on the other frame to use for it, it will stand in the corner until my 854 is finished this fall. Now I guess I am going to have to rebuild that Tecumseh! I also did find what appears to be the complete speed attachment plates AND the complete bell crank assembly used for the belt drive to the 42"SD deck for that year.

Thank you all for the warm welcome and for pointing out some things to fix. I am going to replace that pin asap and will need to look at that plug at the rear cylinder to keep it cool. I am glad I took some close ups since it's my first Horse I was hoping if anything was amiss someone would notice. I know I will have questions in the near future but I know I am in good hands on this site. Rod

Hmmm, Mrs K uses a "New Math" equation. + + +gun + boat = cruise/year I think I'll take her to an Island this year.....I hear TMI has a nice tour, and it's only a 30 mile drive and not too expensive.

Whenever I say I like Onan's I'm accused of being biased! That's OK, cuz I am!

That is a very nice first Horse...while they are fun to collect, your first one will always have that special place. fofor all the

Not true, mine keeps count, something to do with the Kohls card!

to I met a very nice couple in battle creek last june when I was there for my daughters wedding, they own a small engine/lawn tractor repair shop but I forget the name of it. I just looked it up they are called urbandale repair and are very nice people.

@Shynon that worked out great! I used a dental pick I have in my toolbox yesterday and was able to remove the black connector and feed the wires through! I reinstalled the flywheel and shroud then ran out of time. All I need to do now is put the coil and ignition switch on and finish the wiring and the electrical part is done. Then on to the fuel system and put a battery in it then I can start it.

I will probably never do another one again. I haven't touched a sewing machine in about 10 years and even then I wasn't very good at it. This took way longer than I expected. (About 12 hours) but it also came out better than expected. It's even comfy with new foam. (About an inch more than originally)

I have to admit I really like the smoothness and power of an Onan.If you only need a piston and rod it will be worth repairing.With that many hours why the rod failure?I would examine all the internal parts carefully.You will need to flush the fuel tank and replace all the lines and filters.There are a lot of electrical connections that will need to be checked if it has been sitting for that many years.I ran into the same issues with my last 416h and to check out the transaxle,lift system and general shape of the machine I put a cheap Honda clone on in place of the Onan.While I'm checking the Onan out I can use the machine and the price was reasonable.You have many options.Once you get the machine up and running you will really like it.

Couple of weeks ago, I picked up a bunch of stuff. One of them was a 310-8 and a 36" SD deck. The deck had no belts, blades, nuts for the blades, or idler pulley. The deck is solid, spindles seemed pretty good so I bought blades, belts and nuts. I just finished putting it together now and took it for a little mow. I am quite impressed with this little deck, it's super quiet (the spindles are perfect) cuts pretty nicely too, and it can get into places which my larger decks just can't. I need to do some serious tuning on the 310 though to run such a big deck!

I hate when people buy these old tractors just for the money to make on them. It's like basicly selling to a scrap yard because they tear them down and part Them out and in my opinion that's not being in the hobby or a collector. What really kills me is when a guy also has a bunch of cool old tractors and just buys them and packs them away in a trailer or barn and does absolutely not one thing with them. No shows, no restores, nothing. Let's them sit and rust away more. Shame but oh well in the end not my business what someone else does with their stuff.

We're glad you switched to I guess we just have to find you a 1267 now then!

@pfrederi in another post suggested this business. Let us know how you do. You might try calling LJ Fluid Power. They have some stuff for the Sundstrands. (269) 623-4150 · 10118 S M 43 Hwy Delton, MI 49046

Check with Boomer on here he may have what you need to fix it.

Keep doing standard maintenance on that old Kohler. Change the oil every 25 hours and top it off as necessary before each use. Kohler's that use a little oil will run for decades as long as you do your due diligence and keep them lubricated. And don't forget the air filter!

The 520 is the feature tractor at the "Big Show" load her up and come join the fun! http://new.wheelhorsecc.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=2

I guess because it's mine and I really like it. Plus I like working on stuff. I do have a 1276, but that is not going to be a work tractor. I am pretty sure I can set up a right side pedal.

The guy I bought the stuff from had started on both tractors, but work and family got in the way, so he sold everything. That said, I have four other tractors, two 857's, a 1276, and an 854. One of the 857's is my yard tractor, and I am currently working on the 1276 for the June show. The others will get worked on this fall. The two tractors I got in the parts deal, was a Raider 10 with a tore down Tecumseh 10hp, and a Commando 8 with no engine, and no tranny. Both are incomplete, and have other issues. The frame from the Raider is going into my 1276 as it's frame had been broken numerous times, and is going to need a lot of metal work to save it. I am contemplating swapping the 6 speed tranny into one of my 857's, and then I may repair the Commando frame (the pic with the slots cut in it) and use the extra 3 speed to make a rat rod along with some of the other parts. I know I am going to have left over stuff, eventually I will pass it on to someone who can use it, hopefully here on the forum.

I contacted a guy a little over a week ago on CL about an add for a bunch of parts and a roller. Didn't take paypal, told him it was a 3+ hour drive, and it wouldn't be till weekend before I could come. Told him that I would mail him a $50 money order if he would pull the ad. Got the money order, sent him a pic of it, and he immediately pulled the ad. Showed up 5 days later, and stuff was better than I expected. (I had several conversations and checked out his FB page before I ever offered the MO). So you do have some people good to their word. On the flip side, when I sold my Ranch King a couple weeks ago (was a great deal), my phone blew up with people trying to one up the other. Right before the first person I promised it to showed up, someone called and offered about 25% over the price trying to buy it out from under the guy who was on his way. Told them, that would not be right, and being a Christian, doing so would compromise my beliefs, and my word. Guy showed up on time, and when I told him about what happened, he was amazed that I didn't take the other offer and give him the shaft. Needless to say he was very happy, the less than scrupulous person, not so much!

This was his uncles tractor (only other owner) and he wouldn't budge much on price. All original paint but I do have a couple concerns. Rear wheel hubs are pushed in on both wheels and the front grill has a dent (but I know really good old timer body guy) , runs on full choke . I think she'll polish up real nice though...she deserves it after 50yrs of faithful service . You can definitely tell the previous owner took very good care of her . So what you guys think ? @elcamino/wheelhorse here some pics of my sons beater . Plan on brushing on a used oil finish , Removable bedsides and tailgate .

Also, if you choose a bit size just under the diameter of the pin you will often find that as you approach drilling through the pin the pin might begin spinning and come out on the end of the bit due to a combination of the heat generated drilling, and the loss of material in the pin due to being drilled. Either way, I always drill a pin just undersized of the hole then take a pin punch to drive out what remains of the pin because what remains almost always comes out easily once the center of the pin has been drilled out.

Extra Teccy motors are a plus. I use them for door stops in my garage!

My experience with buying anything from anyone is you win some and you lose some. Some folks word is their bond and some folks word bends as soon as the green comes out. It is unfortunate but real. I figure I have learned from being burned (on a few items I wanted to buy) and I always try to sell as stated to the person that first made the offer to puchase.. These old tractors, parts and implments are increasingly popular whether the seller knows it or not. About every Craigslist tractor, newspaper ad, swap meet item or Ebay item is more and ore expensive regardless of conditon. Most of the time you deal with good people and it makes a good experience that you want to have. That's win you win bigtime! I also figure I have