Leaderboard

I have been slowly trying to clean up the yard in the back. There is an area in which I cannot get grass to grow no matter what so I ended up putting in landscape ties and close to 50 ton of gravel to create a road down to the barn. I also brought in topsoil and some sod (only thing to get grass to take on hill). Lots to go but looking much better. The loader got a workout and the Polaris EV handled without an issue.

Finally mounted my ag's this weekend in between rain storms. Carlisle tru power 23-10.50-12 on what I believe to be 8" wide rim. I never measured the width but assume they're 8" for that's what came on the tractor when I purchased it. Had wheels blasted and powder coated for $50. i really like the way they look and I'm sure will function just as well

You may want to consider a hand clutch.

As I had mentioned in an earlier post, I got a couple of roughed up K91T's along with my barn find of the 401 and 551. So I decided to take them apart and see if I could get them running. The first one is a spec number 31107A. This engine, according to the seller, was the original engine on the 401. He threw a rod, and busted a hole in the block. So he had the block welded, got and .010 under rod, and had the crank turned. Soon after doing all that, the engine started making a clanging noise and stopped running. He replaced it with a newer K91T and never touched the first K91 again. So that is where my adventure began. I took it all apart, and found that the noise was coming from a broken camshaft. I replaced it, check the crank and rod to find virtually no wear, mic'd the cylinder (okay), and resurfaced the valves. I ball-honed the cylinder, and installed a new set of rings. Put it all back to together did a little painting, and started it today for the first time in approximately 40 years. Here is the results: Now its on to the next K91T k91t_run_video.mp4

Got the front mower hooked up to the c121 today. Worked great. Just have to get it a little more level but I don't use it to mow the yard so it doesn't matter

I would do what ever it takes to keep using your horse

Sometimes, one really wonders "why" would someone do that? Here are some recent examples, let's see yours! 1 & 2, let's add plates inside the head stand gas tank mount, for no apprent reason! 3, let's drill holes in the frame for a motormount, don't use them, and weld it down instead! 4, not quite sure where the motor mount holes should be, so let's just cut slots in the frame! 5 & 6, dang it, I hate throwing away that broken wheel hub, let's just weld it to the end of the axle (who cares if it is straight)!

Sometimes you just can't resist and get drawn to yet another one. I hauled this one home this morning! It's a model 1067 Six Speed. Before I get too attached, if anyone out there "needs" it more than me, let me know and I'll bring it to PA next month. I hope every body has a great Memorial Day! Regards, Bruce

I don't think there one think sacrilegious about modifying a tractor to suit your needs, or for that matter, if you just want to do it. I like Richies idea and was thinking if a right side pedal could be tied across to the left side so you'd end up with a pedal on both sides. The biggest obstacle would be the pto pedal on the right. Maybe fabricate a lever to operate the current pedal? I don't see where changing it to an 877 would be a difficult project at all. One of the cool things about these tractors is that so many parts are common to many models. Once you had the hydro in hand you would be able to start taking parts off of the 857 until you reach a point that it's identical to an 877. Then just start putting it back together with the hydro in place of the manual. Tag it an 877?? By all means, if you want to. But it also might be fun to see how often Wheel Horse gurus catch it if you left it tagged an 855

would you be able to somehow put a pedal on the right side and run a spring loaded cable to the idler pulley lever? just thinking out loud.

Thanks to all that remember us.

I really like Terry's patriotic series. I get the feeling that you want to go for full blown parade colors though which is great. I'm with slim on the pictures.

No, this was a custom clutch build for my Low Rider. Hold on a minute! Couldn't it be both? I've read a bunch of your posts Ed Sorry, Just couldn't resist even though I promised another member I'd try to refrain from any more jokes.

Okay, I think I got this. So I am sitting here in my chair pulling apart the Raider 10 that came in my parts lot the other day. So I have it down to the frame, and I am sitting there staring at the pedal and the brake/clutch linkage and the brain goes into analysis mode. One thing God blessed me with, is the ability to see mechanical objects in X, Y, and Z planes in my head. So this is what I came up with, using probably 85% or more WH parts. Using the left side pedal, flip it around and shorten the tube so it fits between the stirrup and the PTO pedal on the right side. Cut off the lever, and rotate it to the bottom and re-attach it. I may have to modify the angle of the pedal some to clear the PTO pedal. Then, either open up the frame hole which is just behind the fan gear location, or weld in a new tube across the frame just below. Use a drive belt tension pulley lever/rod cut down to the correct lever length pointing down on the right side, inserting the rod through the new tube. Take a long brake/clutch accuating rod and cut it down to fit between the pedal lever and the new transfer lever/rod. Then using another short cast lever that the brake lining accuating rod attaches to, attach it pointing up on the left side. Then using the remainder of the actuating rod previously shortened, attach a rod between the new left side transfer lever and the existing brake/clutch lever. So, when you would depress the right pedal, the lever being under the pedal, it would transfer the motion rearward. This would rotate the new traverse rod and corresponding rotation to the left side. With the lever on top of the transfer rod on the left side, the rotation is forward so it pulls on the left side brake/clutch rod and functions as originally designed! I will draw up a sketch when I get time, but this should do the trick and look all original to boot!

No, this was a custom clutch build for my Low Rider. The pedal is normally used to engage and disengage the clutch, but the hand lever can be pulled if additional pressure is required to tighten the drive belt when drag racing or pulling. I just threw the idea out there to give you some other options other than converting your gear drive to an auto. I do think the hand lever could be added to your existing clutch pedal with the addition of a support pin for the lever and a connecting rod to your existing clutch pedal.

That video reminds me of an episode in high school. We we're building karts and a friend of mine had a military surplus 11 HP Wisconsin. Hadn't run in like forever. We threw some gas and oil in it as it sat on the bench. Wound an clothesline around it and gave it a tug. It took off first try. Only problem was there was nothing holding the engine down.

These two little girls were able to drive their even though their legs are too short to reach the clutch. The implement lift lever had been converted to a dead-man clutch / brake for safety of the girls. Spring loaded to the rear de-clutches and applies a bit of breaking pressure, push forward and the clutch engages. In your case the lift lever would stay and a second lever could be connected to the clutch pedal like Ed has.

Trimmed the hood today and put it together. Mock up pretty much done except 2 belt guards and foot control pedal.

I SERVED 1951 TO 1953

Thank you to all who have served,fought and died for the greatest country in the world. I wouldnt want to live anywhere else.

-- A big THANKS to all who have served. MEMORIAL DAY Keep it moving, please, even if you've seen it before. It is the VETERAN, not the preacher, who has given us freedom of religion. It is the VETERAN, not the reporter, who has given us freedom of the press. It is the VETERAN, not the poet, who has given us freedom of speech. It is the VETERAN, not the campus organizer, who has given us freedom to assemble. It is the VETERAN, not the lawyer, who has given us the right to a fair trial. It is the VETERAN, not the politician, Who has given us the right to vote. It is the VETERAN who salutes the Flag, It is the VETERAN who serves under the Flag, ETERNAL REST GRANT THEM O LORD, AND LET PERPETUAL LIGHT SHINE UPON THEM.

The problem with pulling D series hubs (and GT14s) is the body of the hub is long and the flange is not much thicker than a regular hub. if they are really stuck you have to pull them from the back of the hub not on the flange or you may break the flange. this setup worked on my D and she fought all the way off. It bent the heavy wall square tubing I used a part of the puller but the hubs came off in one piece... finally.

I keep a sleeve hitch on my C-161 all the time for my larger implements but frequently need to move trailers and carts with it. I've always wanted an easy way to do that and thought Lowell's (Wheelhorseman1000) adapter would work well. Then I thought two of them welded back to back would be slick, very strong, and flexible. I ordered two of them and he welded them before he shipped the order. When I received it I drilled out one of the center holes to 3/4" to receive a trailer ball, did a little prep work, and then painted it. To pull a cart I just turn it over. It could have been done less expensively but I thought this was clean and strong. I think Lowell and my wife think I'm crazy but I took care of my own Father's Day present so my wife was ok with it.

OK, I'll mark that one up for you John. I admit, I have lost a few gray matter cells inhaling CO , but I never forget to pay my dues....and I owe you one.

Take a bow Bob. She sounds happy to be alive again.

Had a great work day on the 1267. Got the battery box made and the rough idle fixed. Also got the hood painted and installed. Its not perfect but then again i didnt build it to look pretty, i built it to work. All i have left is the headlights and decals for the hood then its on to the mower deck

I'll second that ! ................ I know in some circles, making such a change would be sacrilegious.............. Stay out of those circles and be welcome in Redsquare.

It should work with spring that's how they were setup before they went to the shock

A little puff of smoke is no big deal to me and as Jerry said, stay away from anyone that thinks a Kohler can't be rebuilt; they are idiots! Not being from your area I don't know anything about the shops in your neck of the woods. I would go to equipment rental stores and ask them who they use for engine service. They want the job done right but are thrifty so would think they know who to use, and who to avoid.

This bis how Case did it in 1976.

Ok, for those who didn't catch it in one of my other posts, I have MS. This really effects my left side and left foot. You know, the foot use use on the clutch/brake. The WH I use to mow with is an original 857 in pretty nice shape. It is really inconvenient trying to keep my foot from slipping off the stirrup and pedal, and it puts it in an uncomfortable position. So here is the question, I am thinking about converting the 857 into an 877 so I could eliminate the left foot issue (have drop foot, can't lift it, but can push down). Any thoughts about making the swap, would it be wrong to mark it as an 877 when I give it a refresh this fall? I know in some circles, making such a change would be sacrilegious. Would I need anything other than the tranny, seat box, control lever, idler pulley setup, etc.? Thanks for your thoughts.

Yesterday was a very tough day. Had to put our Springer Spaniel down... Mokee was loyal, faithful, ALWAYS there for everyone, to the end... I am sure he has already stolen the keys to the pearly gates and is running in crazy circles while St. Peter tries to get them back, dug a few holes in God's lawn, and is barking up a storm at everything... Rest in Peace Little Friend...

I had to read it twice but get what you're saying now. Basically transferring motion from a new right side modified pedal ( changing pull of a rod to a push on the rod) to a new lever system in order to cross sides of the frame, which then connects to the arm in which the original pedal connects to now. That should work! I'll be keeping an eye out at the show ED, when I least expect it, expect it! I guess you do owe me one for that.

Need to have a new tag line, "the brake lining and K91 rebuilding guy"!

Im in same boat with nub GT22-8 build. Just too much left to do. It will have to wait until next year. @19richie66 is also planning to bring his Project next year. Sounds like 2018 will be a fine vintage! Lol Guess we can all claim we are holding out for @stevasaurus

May be better to make a new brake / clutch peddle, but the concept you have come up with would work well. Please don't!......., The levity on this site is at least half the value of coming here.

AND install it at the show. Bring it along even though it won't be painted! You can always do the pretty stuff later on. LoL

Look for many many years WH manual trannies worked with out shocks. I think WH found people did n't know how to use a clutch and put in the unnecessary modification. Get a OEM belt a spring and she will be fine.

May want to establish an asking price and put it on this thread.

I won't be able to help you much, but that statement is ridiculous - stay away from them... good help will be along afterwhile..

Jay, I can't tell exactly how long you need it but both of mine measure 20 1/2" from the edge of the steering block to the end of the shaft. They came off of a c-120 & 160

I could bring my recently acquired GT 1800, but only if there is serious interest. Trailer space is getting scarce. This has the 18HP Twin B&S w/ the Eaton 1100 auto w/ hyd lift. The tires hold air, the tin is good except for a bump in the grill below the headlights, the seat needs replaced. Per the PO, this tractor was parked two years ago due to losing power. He assumed the engine needed rebuilt and didn't have the bucks to invest. In the meantime he bought a Green Lawn Mower. What I have done to this point follows. It has new tie rods, new battery, new drive belt, Fuel tank flushed, motion control cam was loose causing minimal forward motion. The transmission exterior and control linkage was cleaned under the seat pan and the console. The engine starts easily and runs with no smoke. The transmission and lift now work as they should and it has been tested against a tree and will spin the tires. After running for a few minutes, the engine needs choke to keep running, after choking for a minute, it runs again as it should. I believe it is running out of fuel and needs the carb and/or fuel pump replaced or rebuilt. Right now I have a concentration of Sea Foam in the fuel and am running it daily to see if the fuel problem is resolved. I probably will not have time to rebuild the carb or pump before the Show. $500 as is Also have a 48" SD deck The spindles bearings feel and sound good. There was some repair where the height adjustment wheels are attached. No visible rust thru. The blades are near new. It has excellent twin rollers all around. The height adjustment plate needs straightened. Mule drive and belt included. $300 Also 48" snow plow. Needs a new scraper bar. $120 Axle bracket. $40 Everything....tractor, deck, mule drive and belt, snow plow and axle bracket. $800 Update..... I did some checking on the engine. Both cyls have a good spark, but the front one has no compression, but it does run and sounds OK on one cyl. I have repaired the height adjustment bracket and cleaned and lubed the belt tensioner on the 48" SD deck and installed it on my 312 for testing and it mows and sounds good. The tractor price has been reduced to $250 SOLD SOLD The 48" SD deck, mule drive, and belt remain at $300 The plow and frame $120 Axle bracket $40 SOLD SOLD

Anything is possible, but already have the PTO lever on the right.

I'm very sorry for your loss, and I definitely know your pain. I still can't bring myself to get another dog after the loss of my best friend /Springer Spaniel Wallace a year and a half ago. I was very fortunate to be able to bring him to work with me where part of my job was putting on real English style driven pheasant shoots. He simply couldn't get enough flushing and retrieving, his tail would go NON STOP! Wallace and I were inseparable, he spent many hours on a bulldozer, backhoe, farm tractor etc. with me, both of us smiling knowing how lucky we were. Thank you Pfrederi for posting that poem,as I feel like he took part of my soul with him when he passed. I cried more when I had to put him down then when some humans close to me passed. So here's a few photos I'd like to share because looking at them helps me ease the pain. Heck I can't forget my wifes springer Jake who also passed, he's the one with the hat on at the beach!!

Yes a big THANK YOU for all those who have served, past, present and future. SALUTE

I would put my money on the idler pulley as it quiets down with the clutch depressed.

Frame is a little more work then I assumed to get cleaned correctly. May go past the dead line but oh well.

I think this attachment will give you all the info you need. WH Interchange 1955-2000.pdf