Leaderboard

Get an old hub and some nuts and bolts and make your own. Here is the one I made:

I keep a sleeve hitch on my C-161 all the time for my larger implements but frequently need to move trailers and carts with it. I've always wanted an easy way to do that and thought Lowell's (Wheelhorseman1000) adapter would work well. Then I thought two of them welded back to back would be slick, very strong, and flexible. I ordered two of them and he welded them before he shipped the order. When I received it I drilled out one of the center holes to 3/4" to receive a trailer ball, did a little prep work, and then painted it. To pull a cart I just turn it over. It could have been done less expensively but I thought this was clean and strong. I think Lowell and my wife think I'm crazy but I took care of my own Father's Day present so my wife was ok with it.

And for the really belligerent hub, I add a helper bar.

It was a joke! Hence the "pulling your chain" smilie!---->after the comment. Do you not get that? Sorry! maybe it doesn't show up on a phone or something???? At least you didn't write "blew a tranny on my tractor" or this could've went off the rails real quick. I'll try and refrain from any more jokes in the future! Thanks Steve!

Just confirmed reservations and am preparing for the show. B.S. sessions on the front bench won't be the same without the stevasarus though.

I would put my money on the idler pulley as it quiets down with the clutch depressed.

I feel the same way about political BS, but if you ever get to meet @wallfish (John)...you will know he just means to have some fun.

I went into the "Manuals" section...clicked the era where 1986 would be and typed 417-8. Here is the TIPL and it shows the transmission #11095 8 speed transmission. As far as your noise, it sounds like an axle bearing. I would check the input shaft pulley, the idler pulley and wood ruff keys first...before I dropped the trans and opened it up. If those things are OK...you will need to drop and open the transmission. Here is the manual link to the process...you will want "Section V". 492-4004.pdf If you go to the "Reference Section" (Transmissions) on the main page...my #5060 thread will be helpful with your transmission. The differentials are different, but the main part of the trans is the same as yours. What were you trying to search that you had bad results?? Pull off the wheels or hubs and check the up & down and side to side play of the axles. almost any play at all is the sign of a bad outer axle bearing.

It was gear drive and made in Germany You can avoid your boredom by trying to find parts.

It was an option so the dealers probably just swapped them as needed.

I recently finished restoring my Speedex S-14 and took it to the mini WheelHorse show in Danbury, CT last week. I learned that several of the Speedex engineers came from Wheel Horse. I made a video which can be seen at https://youtu.be/d6qdxDnTCr0 . I did not get the original engine with mine and would very much like to know the Model, Type and Code numbers off your engine. I also notice that our seats are different. I have a hood retainer on top the engine that I do not see on yours and do not have a lever sticking out the top of the hood which turns and latches the hood.

If you do a lot of this stuff - consider getting an electric impact , they are far stronger than you'd expect and will rip those nuts off easily . Best solution for those without a decent compressor and you can find them at times on CL or one of the auction sites . Some of the newer cordless impact tools are also quite capable - my little 1/4" hex drive Bosch will knock 120ft/lbs of force onto a nut - have removed the lug nuts off the old Cruiser with it several times and use a torque wrench to put them back on properly . I have a full compressor setup here as well as a 650ft/lb 1/2" drive impact here - stuff will come loose or break one way or another . Sarge

We my dad wanted a pulling tractor so I gave him a C-85 I had with a bad rod. He rebuilt the engine with all nos kohler parts. It got completely stripped down and gone through all sanded and completely panted. All new tires and another pulling hitch from tom. Here are some pics of before and what it's up to now. Still not completed yet.

The problem with pulling D series hubs (and GT14s) is the body of the hub is long and the flange is not much thicker than a regular hub. if they are really stuck you have to pull them from the back of the hub not on the flange or you may break the flange. this setup worked on my D and she fought all the way off. It bent the heavy wall square tubing I used a part of the puller but the hubs came off in one piece... finally.

Hose raceways welded in the tool box. Made the patch for the fender and got it tacked in place. Still more metal pecking to do.

I'd have to say the idler pulley would be my first thought too. Hopefully that will be your problem but if it's not it should still be an easy fix. There's another list in the manuals section that goes into 2000 but that's really not critical here. The Unidrive transmission differences were insignificant through those years. Keep in mind that Steve isn't referring to in and out play. Side to side has been confused in the past. A little in/out play, 1/8" or so max, isn't an issue.

After my SECOND hub breaking with a giant 3 jaw -- I figured that more than 3 points of pull was needed so I built a 5 and a 6 pull point. I havent broke another hub and have successfully pulled several ... but I had a big D-180 make me holler UNCLE! on both hubs no matter how I went at them --- manohman, hubs and steering wheels! whew!!

The 3 jaw puller is a 10 ton set up from amazon. ~ $100

I been wondering. i see alot of old round hoods with ags. but some with turfs. was it customer preference or did Wheel horse just throw turfs on so many and ags on rest.

Presuming the axles are the original type they will have a roll pin driven through them rather than a "C" Clip. I have had good results using "Form-A-Gasket".

Found them. Glad you brought it up or it could've been forgotten I think you should send us one of you to use! Wanna start now?

Their maybe a adjustment that i'm not thinking of but the first thing i would try is getting a good set of deck wheels sense this is what the deck rides on if their not right the cut will be off.

My spray rig

ohhh i'm sorry the political world gets me frustrated sometimes so not sure how to take it sometimes

This brochure shows them as an option

Here's a pic of Dubay's sign and a couple shots of their bone yard

Going to miss you this year @stevasaurus ... I've been having some bad juju following me around lately too . Hope your recovery goes well . I could just make a permanent seat at the bus stop ! We're staying at the Holiday Inn express in Shippensburg so I can be what ever I want when wake in the morning . Ship me some wine Steve and I can try to fill your shoes (without socks of course) and play the part of the old Dino .

"ok more tranny questions" In these days of political correctness, you might want to be careful how you word things.

I gotta find'em first, it's been a while. Without a doubt, that had to be a tough decision, it's obvious how much you enjoy being there. Your first year was mine too so I don't know what it's like without you being there. The huge smile on your face when you won the tractor raffle is still one of my favorite memories of all the shows.

I made a hub puller and it is my intention to produce a number of them to sell. I wish that I could say when they will be produced, but too many other things keep getting in the way. I wanted to have them ready for the show, but that may not happen. Now back to installing the mower deck I welded yesterday (see what I mean?).

I spent most of the day doing yard work but still had time to figure out the hose routing through the shifter tunnel. The connections are not the correct ports just worst case.

@857 horse I don't know what a portable mono pole would cost, but I'm guessing that the club doesn't have money in the budget for something like that. @SPINJIM I am setting up in a building this year to sell a bunch of stuff, and I'm on my own with no help. So the ability to leave a cell phone number is almost essential if I want to do anything other than be with my stuff all the time.

Garry

This looks so stock,,,,I missed what I was looking at,,,, This is a pure case of common scence taking over or reemerging,,,,,"sorry digital age" Sometimes the best shows up when we put our head to the grind stone,,,But not to close !!!!!!!!

Early in the week something went POP !! in my knee, so I've been hobbling around like an" Old Man"... by the way I am one. That 312 Hydro really made it easy on me mowing the lawn this week.

If you have that trans on the bench like that...why take a chance. Open it up clean it out, check your bearings and replace the seals and gasket. The hard part is already done, and if you are not lucky, you will be right back to where you are.

Awesome way to get time in with the kids! Love that rj too!

Kind of corny , but it does work !

I wish that stinkin' list had a different name. :angry-tappingfoot:

I had some stubborn hubs on my B-100. Here is a hub puller that I made. It is made from a 1" hub, a 1" bolt and nut, five 3/8-16 all-thread bolts, 10 nuts, 5 lock washers, and 10 flat washers. It took over one hour of 1/4 turn on each nut, over and over again. Lots of PB Blaster, a Mapp gas torch, and a big hammer to hit the 1" bolt every now and again. Bob

I picked this up a few weeks ago. I got the owners manuals and a copy of the sales add from when the last PO bought it. $1000 and it had 923hrs on it when bought and has 925hrs on it when i bought it so not much use by the PO it had sum issues. The front anti scalp wheels were not right and the front of the deck was out of adjustment so it would just dig into the ground when turning or on unlevel ground. Its a 2000 model no power steering unlike the 522xi but i kinda like it better i feel what the front end is doing and still is easy to turn. I have a hard time keeping a straight line with 522xi its so easy to turn and not much feed back through the steering wheel. The 60'' deck takes sum getting use too. Missing the front grill and has a busted head light lens but i do like it.

Hi tractor friends. Hope everyone had a good Christmas and are doing well. Ken and I have decided to have the Mentone Garden Tractor Show & Swap meet on a new date this year. As most of you know we've had nothing but bad luck with trying to figure out Mother Nature and have been rained out the last four or more times. This year we're going to have it in collaboration with Mentone Egg Festival. The tractor show and swap meet will be on Friday June 2nd and Saturday June 3rd. Anyone wanting to set up and sell can come set up on Thursday June 1st If desired. As usual there will be a $5 per day selling fee to help cover the costs. Also we would love if we could get people to bring their garden tractors to show. We're hoping to set up an area just for them to be shown off! If anyone has any questions Ken can be reached at 574-607-7694 and I can be reached at 513-319-3640. The Show and Swap Meet will be just north of Mentone Indiana on highway 19 Thanks and hope to see everyone there! note: I apologize the attachment was last year's Egg Festival Because they have not posted this year's yet. Egg Festival - Mentone Chamber of Commerce The Mentone Egg Festival for 2016 will be held June 2nd, 3rd, and 4th... Mark it down on your calendars! The three-day event features entertainment, games, food, a parade in the downtown area, a play area for kids, and a huge car, truck, motorcycle &… MENTONEEGGCITY.COM

For info , try these - http://www.vintagemachinery.org/home.aspx http://owwm.org/index.php?sid=292bba1ec74b043af5b29ad38ad01c0a The Old Woodworking Machines site is a bit misleading , but they have a whole metal machines section and drill presses can land in either the wood or metal categories as they apply to both .My 1810 Atlas/Clausing is pretty rare and were a limited production machine with all odd parts - but there are 3 on that forum with 2 already restored and in service . Your old Rockwell is basically the same as a Powermatic and several other brands , all Swiss built if I remember correctly . The biggest issue with the vari-drive is not to ever turn the speed crank unless the machine is running . Moving that speed dial will break that bearing and possibly crack/bend that linkage arm as well and can also damage the drive pulley assembly . Later models had a warning label to prevent people from doing just that , but folks tend to read the label after doing the damage anyway . It's a very solid and well built machine , should serve you very well for at least another 30yrs if taken care of ... Sarge

RIP Mr Gregg Allman...you will be missed.

I'll add onto what has been said above. First a different condenser is always better than unhooking the original. Running the ignition without points even for a short time contributes to pitting of the points. I know its anal for me to say that but in the past I spent too many hours with dual point racing type ignition systems on engines like the Ford 406cu in 405 HP engine. Habit still tells me its a no no to run without a condenser. Secondly when done with the 600 grit paper run a clean piece of newspaper thru the points to clean them. Run a strip of paper thru them until the paper comes out clean. For the record, "condenser" is an age old term, and "capacitor" is a newer term for the same device. Ignition capacitors are still commonly called condensers. Many people will replace a condenser with regular periodic maintenance, just because they have no way to tell how much longer it might last. But some new condensers might be bad right out of the box, or might fail very shortly after installation. My approach is to carry a known good condenser in the tool kit, and don't replace the old one until it fails. How to test. 1.) Remove the condenser from the engine (or at least disconnect the lead wire). Note the small metal connector located on the end of the condenser. This connector is the "hot" or power connection. The metal case of the condenser is the grounding point. Discharge the condenser by shorting the lead wire to the case. 2.) Switch the meter to the ohms position. Place the red lead into the "ohm" connector on the meter. Insert the black lead into the "com" or common connector on the meter. Set the resistance range to the highest available setting (if it is selectable). Connect the test leads together and zero the meter. If the meter won't zero replace the battery. (Yes, an ohm meter has a battery). 3.) Touch the red lead to the hot connector on the condenser. Place the black lead to the metal case on the condenser. The meter's needle should jump slightly to the right (toward 0-ohms), then should drop back to the left towards infinite resistance). Hold the leads in place for 15 to 20 seconds. This action places charge in the condenser. If the test shows any reading other than infinity, the condenser is leaking and needs to be replaced. 4.) Remove the leads and reverse the placement to the condenser. Move the red lead from the hot connector to the metal case, and move the black lead from the metal case to the hot connector. At the moment where both leads are touching the correct points, the meter should jump towards the right. The second time the needle may move twice as far, as this action discharges the condenser. Holding the leads in contact should again result in movement of the needle back toward infinite resistance. 5.) Movement of the meter's needle indicates the condenser is good. If no movement was indicated on the meter in any circumstance, the condenser is bad and must be replaced. Retest the condenser several times for a consistent reading. In operation the condenser will "ring" at up to 300 volts, so the condenser needs to be rated much higher, no less than 600 volts DC. The ignition will likely work with any capacitance value between 0.05 and 0.6 microfarad. Too high or too low value may eventually transfer metal from one side of the contact points to the other side leaving a pit and a point. Capacity of capacitors ranges from 0.1 microfarad to 0.33 microfarad. A capacitor may absorb moisture over a long period of time, and moisture can cause failure of the condenser. So it is possible that a condenser stored for 10 years or so might be bad or might fail prematurely in service. It is a good idea to check your spare condenser occasionally. If you have a newer meter with a cap test feature simply move your selector to the cap test function and test. If it tests open or short simply throw it away. If it tests a different value than its supposed to be it will make a good test cap.

the HC was the first to have the forward swept axle to make the tractor accept the 60" deck, It also had a taller air cleaner and a non-louvered hood, As stated above it had a faster ground speed and no chrome. I picked up my first 520-HC this week, still going over it and checking it out,but I like it so far eric j

Going to miss you @stevasaurus!

Steve I gave you a like but I don't like it. Sure going to miss you. The tractors are great but it's the good times with the guys that makes it special!

I've had several 702's and never had the adjustable lift. Had one that some one made from steel and notched it but that's it. I no they get replaced with newer style prettyoften. Cause the tab breaks off like the one in photo. Second photo is what it should be.