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This past saterday i brought home a 702 parts machine. well it had some problems so i am in process of taking it apart. so today i got a little bored. i pulled 502 out and the 753. I pulled tank off 502 and it ended up on the 753 since the 753 tank leaks and i dont want to go through hassel of fixing the gasket. Now on the 502 I replaced the tower support arms and the steering support thing the one dad bought from toro was too thick and put the 702 gas tank steering wheel on it. sooo now its got everything where its supposed to be. but one question how many 1962 tractors here on redsquare have the adjuster for lift arm. something tells me it was put on by someone.

For the thin wrench old blades are very tough steel they, will not bend . A hacksaw a file and some patience ...

Hello, I'm new to the forum. I have a 1977 C - 120 Wheel Horse 12 HP electric start with a trailer. It's been in my family for almost 25 years. Then it sat for a while and needed a lot of attention. I've replaced the battery, plug, tires front and back, changed the dif and crank case oil. Muffler rusted and fell apart. I replaced it with a modern stack type muffler. Also rebuilt the carburetor. Sharpened blades and has new belts. It has a real transmission and high/low gear ranges. My question is..........What is this thing worth? I really don't want to sell it but I just don't have the time to keep working on it. Oh and I have the steering wheel but it was cracked so I'm using vise grips for now.

I went ahead and bought a quality wrench and had the open end milled down. The box end is a Reese from our RV days. No more skinned knuckles for me. For the smaller nuts like on the double D blades a chunk of 4x4 holds the blade well.

I doubt you'd be able to get good enough access on them to follow the original grind with a file or handheld grinder with them still on the deck. It's worth determining the size of the nut and getting a proper socket or wrench. The nuts on my 48" deck are 1 7/8" 1 1/8" -- the same size as the nut commonly used on a lot of trailer hitch balls. If you have a trailer hitch and ever put the ball on the receiver adapter yourself, check your toolbox -- you might have the correct size wrench laying around already! The blade rotation causes the nuts to tighten up by themselves as they run. They'll be torqued down very tight, and if they haven't been removed in a while, they won't want to budge without some gentle "persuasion". My method is to take the deck off and flip it over, then spray some PB Blaster or other good penetrant + corrosion buster on and around the nuts and let it work for a few minutes. Put a block of wood between the end of the blade you're working on and some part of the deck so that the blade end jams against the wood when you try to loosen the nut. Try loosening the nut -- and tap the wrench with a hammer a few times while you put tension on it. Not like hammering a nail, just tap it a few times. The percussion drives the penetrant deeper and also breaks up some of the inevitable rust "lock". Then, try wrenching a little harder, but not too hard. If it doesn't budge yet, get a rubber mallet and give the wrench some moderate "thwacks" with the rubber mallet as you pull on the wrench -- it will start to move. "Nudge" the wrench along with the rubber mallet and the nut will let go in a few more nice-and-easy thwacks with the rubber mallet. When you put the blades back on, use a little anti-seize on the spindle threads. Use the wood block again to stop the blade rotating when you tighten the nut. Get the nuts nice and tight, but don't worry too much about torque specs. They'll tighten down more when you run the mower, guaranteed. Edit: Dangit, that is 1 1/8"... typing is a pain sometimes!

I picked this up a few weeks ago. I got the owners manuals and a copy of the sales add from when the last PO bought it. $1000 and it had 923hrs on it when bought and has 925hrs on it when i bought it so not much use by the PO it had sum issues. The front anti scalp wheels were not right and the front of the deck was out of adjustment so it would just dig into the ground when turning or on unlevel ground. Its a 2000 model no power steering unlike the 522xi but i kinda like it better i feel what the front end is doing and still is easy to turn. I have a hard time keeping a straight line with 522xi its so easy to turn and not much feed back through the steering wheel. The 60'' deck takes sum getting use too. Missing the front grill and has a busted head light lens but i do like it.

Spending this stormy and rainy night in the shop getting a couple of tractors ready for two parades on Monday. My eight-year-old son will be commanding the 420 LSE and I will take a spin on the RJ 58. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

Have always wanted one of these & one came home with me today, @jay bee finally decided to let her go, she will take over the snow blowing duties from the C-141 who will be assigned the snow plow.

854 for sure! You could restore one and keep one in it's work clothes.

That's awesome of you Jeff. Orrrr, is this a way to have more tractors. By storing them at the neighbors that is. Seriously, Hats off to you.

Heat is a good rust buster, but working with cast iron I think I would let it cool and apply some PB Blaster or whatever you prefer while it is hot and then after it cools down try removing it. You should put a quart or two of diesel fuel in it and (since you already have it off)use an electric motor or drill to operate it in all gears for several minutes then drain. This will get most of the water out of the bearings.

Don't think the 62's had the adjuster as Bob said. Mine doesn't. I even bought an adjustable lift mechanism to swap mine out and the mount holes didn't match up. So I left the original non-adjustable on. Based on the square bolts on yours, I'd say someone swapped them out. Doesn't look factory to me.

I believe 63 was the first year for that. I've always maintained that after 50+ years and so much part swapping it's nearly impossible to know for sure what was factory original. Wheel Horse created enough oddities themselves but I'm betting the early years owners also created many and Wheel Horse was 'blamed' for it. You just put a 62 tank on a 63. Nothing wrong with that and I like it but somewhere down the road It could be said that Wheel horse was using up the 62 parts on 63's. I think the best way to say something is original is by looking at the original parts list. If something is different then Wheel Horse may have been up to their tricks or one of the owners over the years........

The most likely cause is the seat switch does not recognize the presence of the operator. When the pto (power take off) is OFF 1/2 of the pto switch powers the engine ignition. The other 1/2 controls the starter circuit. When the pto is ON or engaged the seat switch powers the ignition. Operator falls out of seat and the engine quits. Have the long tractor model number and serial number? Should be able to find a good wiring diagram of this circuit. Garry

I look at the pictures,,,,,and wunder,,,,,Wow......its only a month,,,,,,,, WX11 and Lane Ralph will be MIA,,,,,Lifee has many pathes,,,,, Kate from the L.G. Tractor Magazine will be on hand,,,,,,,,,, Craig Rulz is being quiet,,,,makes me wunder,,,, and it will STILL be a full house......Squonk has talked me into the Wednesday night gather,,,,,THATS what worries me,,, loloolo with GPS and an address he supplied,,,,im set,,,, ok........its late on my clock,,,,,,,,

This is how I clean my mower decks. I just let them sit for a few minutes after lowering them before I start them. I haven't had any issues.

Should be just fine

I've had several 702's and never had the adjustable lift. Had one that some one made from steel and notched it but that's it. I no they get replaced with newer style prettyoften. Cause the tab breaks off like the one in photo. Second photo is what it should be.

i'm just a shade tree mechanic, but I would probably put my brazing tip on my torch and heat it to cherry red to loosen the rust and back it out of there... I imagine you will get a lot of good ideas here...

I just bought some parts in the hope that I can piece together a tractor. I will need other parts as well, some guards and a starter /alternator. There is no model number anywhere I can find. serial numbers are present on label under the steering shaft. Does anyone have a way to ID these? The 2 kohler motors are both 8HP.

Here are the parts involved. Only thing that would allow that is a weld has let go at one of the ends of item 17. The round disc only holds the left side in position but being a welded assembly the right should stay in position with the left. Garry Got the picture from this IPL

I didn't word that very well did I? Barring some anomaly or owner swap the 63's had flat steering wheels and the later axles.The 603 was the exception. It carried over the older axles and had an odd steering wheel.

Most likely an 854... but depending on what that serial number actually is, it could be a 754. Are you sure both motors are K181, or just assumed from the size? Apart from the serial number and an original K161 engine there would be no way to tell. There was a small run of 422 that received 7HP engines instead of 8HP. Serial numbers 47916-48337 are the 754 models.

...and just another little clue, 855's and later (with the exception of Lawn Rangers) were square hoods. And to the best of my knowledge, if those K181 engines there are original to those tractors, there were no 8hp models in 1963 and prior. So that just leaves model year 1964, a hence the 854. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Separate 2 piece gas tank not under the hood. 855 and later had one piece tank under the hood

You might try calling LJ Fluid Power. They have some stuff for the Sundstrands. (269) 623-4150 · 10118 S M 43 Hwy Delton, MI 49046

I think you meant to type 1-1/8"

I put a screw driver through a drilled hole in the deck. Place the blade against the screwdriver and then wrench away. The screwdriver holds the blade from spinning...Works like a charm...

Aw come on now......are we going to let this 'what model/year is it' get by without other opinions? Ummmmm, yup.....an 854.

If McMaster-Carr aint got it no one's got it! (although MSC Direct rivals MMC and then some! We had a guy at work who had more "Yogi-isms" than Yogi Berra. McMaster-Carr was always "Master-McCarr" My favorites: Instead of "opening Pandora's Box" it was "opening a pan of boxes" and the other was "smokes like a fish"! Aldon, I see you keep your compressor on the pallet like I do. Going on 20 yrs.

Is there an empty house near you?

When I was still working, I had this clamp set for holding turbine blades on a 5 axis mill and coordinate measuring machine. A little pricy, but they really work well for various height work.

Tee nuts and studs of different lengths. Check McMasters Carr. Just measure your slot and order the one that fits. https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-table-t-slot-nuts/=17s9wyb And the clamps .https://www.mcmaster.com/#table-clamps/=17s9yjy

I have been so busy, but looking forward to get this running. Thanks for everyone's help! Truly best people on the web are right here. I belong to quite a few forums and this is the nicest and most helpful of them all! Randyu

No problem Randy....I'm always looking for another reason to walk out to he barn and check on the horses.

Glad you got it fixed - I'd recommend running it awhile and dump that oil/filter again just to be sure to remove any contaminants that work loose over time . I change all of mine yearly in the fall and again in the summer if they are ran hard with a lot of hours working - much cheaper than rebuilding the pump/motor section or sourcing a good used unit . Sarge

The Acceleration valve springs are likely to be the culprit. They modulate the flow of fluid to produce a smooth acceleration and when the springs go bad the valve won't open properly. The acceleration valve at the rear of the unit is for forward, the one at the front is the reverse valve. Each has two springs on it and you may as well change all four. Member @refracman hooked me up with a person who had a bunch of these made up a few years back. The hardest part of the job was removing the left tire, fender and other stuff; then putting it all back. Take a look at the Sundstrand Manual and you will see the steps involved.

I thought so too. I wasn't expecting it to start that easily. I think keeping it in the garage all those years really made a difference. I was very surprised by how clean the oil was. Comparing the the old spark plug to the new one, the old plug was in poor condition.

Gents, i need to order the pices that hold hold material onto the drill press table. Any info that points me in right direction is appreciated. i always called the part that slides into the slot a T Nut. Are they called something else? Not sure what size to get. Anyone have a press this size that can make an educated guess or point out how I would determine that? I assume wherever I'd find those, I'd find source for the clamps etc... I can always use misc washers and bolts/nuts etc but I would prefer the right equipment.

About 20 years ago, a friend I grew up with & I stopped by my Uncle's house & this tractor ended up going home with him. He used it for his garden a couple of times but mainly his kids grew up enjoying riding it around the yard. By chance, my wife spotted him at a gas station about a month ago & he asked her what I had been up to, she mentioned the Wheel Horses & of my Uncle's passing shortly after Memorial Day last year. She said his stunned response was, "I have something that needs to go home to him". He called me the next day & we set a date for my Uncle's tractor to come home. I haven't looked her numbers up yet, but I'm pretty sure she is mid - to early sixties S14 Speedex, made by Elmer Pond's brother Harold. I'm happy to report that she has now joined her half sisters in the stable & they seem to be getting along nicely. The first pic is how she looked just after we pulled her out of the weeds.

Snagged this tired ole C-195 today. She is pretty beat up but definitely worth fixing. Someone has hacked up the wiring. Wrong seat obviously. Voltage regulator is missing. Pretty sure the condensor is on wrong post. Can't find where it says the right diagram for the condensor. Not sure how, but the hydro fan blades are all busted off. Paint is not so great. Front right tire won't hold air. Guy said it ran a year ago..... This is the biggest Wheel Horse I've owned. Came with the Flexible Flyer 60" deck. Even with all the flaws, I hope it will run again. Will get more pics hopefully tomorrow

Beautiful tractor CurtS. I want one. But I need a small guy for my gate, and tight trees. Will you please measure the deck at it's widest point for me?

dads 502 was really only 62 we have had except the 702 parts machine i brought home

All great information. Prior to 64 the steering wheels were flat (except the 953). Tankmans tractor in post #3 is prior to 64. The 603 had the earlier front axle. The other models had a newer axle. Tankmans tractor has the older style so it's likely a 62. Compare it to yours.

This is some of the tractors and items that just came in in the last weeks that can be picked up at the show if paid by June 22nd. Also if you need any mower decks, snow blowers, snow blades, or tractors if they are paid for by June 22nd I can bring them to the show and they can be picked up there. I will have a large selection of attachments at the show and parts. The rototiller comes with all parts to attach to tractor $800 SOLD The charger 10 with the 42" RD deck is $800 The PTO set up on the D series tractor is $150 The D180 and 18 Automatic are for parts if you need anything email me or the complete tractor is for sale. The 523DXI tractor has motor problems and is for parts if you need any XI parts I have that one and have parted a 520XI The 1988 520-H pictured with the bagger on the back is a clean good running tractor hour meter shows just over 2000 hrs asking $1000 (tractor only) The Peco bagging system on the 520-H tractor has a later model replacement engine and is priced at $350 The 3pt hitch on the D series is $400 and I have 2 of them. The 1267 is restored and in good condition $800 The rear rims and tires on the D tractor ag tread are holding air but do have dried cracks in the rubber $50 each rim and tire. 1964 704 Wheel Horse came from a one owner, has original paint (has been touched up), good running condition, the motor was replaced at one time it is a K181 not the original K161 asking $600. The 753 is the tractor with the dual wheels. This has the silvertown ag tires and the wheel horse dual wheel spacer kit. The tractor doesn't have any spark but good compression. The fuel tank mounting holes are broken and some one installed a body nut to fix it. Asking $800 with the duals and $500 with just a set of single turf tires. The GT1100 runs and drives but the front tires are flat has a good seat selling for $250 The 657 runs and drive has the 520-H wide rims and 23x10.50-12 turf tires on them. With the wide rims I am asking $700 and $600 with regular rims and tires.

That is awesome of you, Are they aware of the addictive nature of these little wonders? Never mind, being your neighbor of course they are!

Decided to add a traditional tractor exhaust/muffler tonight. I think it turned out pretty good. Used a Ford Muffler and reduced it to a 1" pipe, welded the 1" pipe to a new exhaust port flange. Amazingly, it is a lot quieter now. Did not expect that. Next, I might add some little headlights on each side of the hood. Probably need a little coil to run them. Well see what I can find on eBay.

Two soggy eagles this morning. If they catch and eat one more of these flying Carp. they should be ready to fledge.

I believe these shown below are the same weights in red. I like them in red but kind of miss seeing the deep dish white wheels.