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Snagged this tired ole C-195 today. She is pretty beat up but definitely worth fixing. Someone has hacked up the wiring. Wrong seat obviously. Voltage regulator is missing. Pretty sure the condensor is on wrong post. Can't find where it says the right diagram for the condensor. Not sure how, but the hydro fan blades are all busted off. Paint is not so great. Front right tire won't hold air. Guy said it ran a year ago..... This is the biggest Wheel Horse I've owned. Came with the Flexible Flyer 60" deck. Even with all the flaws, I hope it will run again. Will get more pics hopefully tomorrow

It's a 87 212-6 .... I always tease my neighbor when he comes over on his Saber . His boy 4'th birthday is coming up and twins on the way . Found this pretty cheap , needs a fan gear or something down in the steering . Going to have it fixed and give it to them to run around .

Just found this in my mail...better late than never ! My 1057 . Look how nice she looks in the sun . Now I've got dibs on a two owner (second owner acquired in 1970 and has some paper work) 1077 or 1277 .

My new young neighbor just bought home a 1075. He works two jobs so I am going over it for him. Nice kid (kids are 30 when you are my age) 6 years in the Army as a Ranger. Hydro didn't work well at all. No big problem tow valve as not tight. Side note how many different locations did WH use for sundstrand (aka Wheelamatic) hydros??? Finally found it closed it and she works strong. This is the second tractor I have worked on recently that had a red WH filter on the hydro. How long ago do you think they stopped making those?? Fluid is draining out right now looks clean and clear. Engine runs well but carb an throttle cable needs some tweaking. Only significant issue so far battery not charging. It is the regulator as grounding the field terminal slows down the engine and voltage goes up to 15.. The kid an his wife just bought the house so i am going to try filing the contacts, try to save him some $$$. Came with a snow blade but no deck. I have a 36" Rm-366 which I should be able to put on. The idler pulley/PTO set up on this 1075 looks much different form the 855/56 /that I have worked on. Is there something different here?? He has 2.5 acres of grass and a bigger deck would be nice. I have a 42" off an Electro but as i long frame I guess it will not ft. Looking here it appears the only 42" deck that will fit is the RM-425, but the belt system on that looks like something Rube Goldberg designed while he had a hangover.

Todays rainy day one mile road trip.

Looks like a Work Horse Ed You must have a thing for those rare left PTO's Jeff ...what's this the second one in a week??

That is awesome of you, Are they aware of the addictive nature of these little wonders? Never mind, being your neighbor of course they are!

I have that tractor....what area do you need?

Left PTO...you had me looking Jim. Work Horse GT 1800 auto w / Eaton 1100 and hyd lift. I feel another foot control coming. W/48" dozer and 48" SD deck.

I do a big old happy dance if I can find a one STATE away, one mile; too much!

@stevebo I wet sanded some spots down with 400 grit, and there is original paint under the primer!

Roll pins are hardened steel and will eat up a regular drill bit, a carbide tipped bit will do the job. I have found that heating the roll pin with a small torch (the flame will go right down the center) followed by PB Blaster will get them moving. If they don't move you can follow up with a regular bit because the heat will take the temper out of it.

Many of the old Simplicity, Bolens, Allis Chalmers, etc. used Briggs engines and a good number of them are still running. Those were the ones with cast iron blocks with ball bearing cranks. They are still great engines but parts availability is getting more difficult by the year. Just for grins I took a couple of pics for a visual size comparison between the Yard Man and my C-101

I finally got a dry sunny day so I got some pictures of the 13 horse mount details.The mounting plate photo shows frame holes denoted by the zinc bolts and the engine holes are the 4 cad colored smaller pattern.Think of the plate as a blank canvas.The centerline of crank needs to be in line with the pto hoop hole.The Onan and pulley was left on its plate so I could tell that the outer face of the pulley was centered on the hoop hole left to right. The hole pattern for engine mounting in the frame are not centered with each other left to right as can be seen in the 2nd picture.This is not important if the standoffs are individual but the tube had to be offset drilled.This is another good reason to use a spare Onan plate as it is already drilled to fit the frame.I swithed to custom made single standoffs for the front to make oil changes easier.If you don't want to use a Predator but rather a single cylinder Honda, Briggs ohv or other brand of single this approach will work for all with some minor variations.Hope this helps

Have always wanted one of these & one came home with me today, @jay bee finally decided to let her go, she will take over the snow blowing duties from the C-141 who will be assigned the snow plow.

Is there an empty house near you?

Thanks guys! I have downloaded every diagram and manual I could find on this tractor. The wiring isnt really too awful bad, just some loose wires hanging and would like pics so I can fix it and make it look as much as original as possible. Here is a pic of the tractor I am working on.

HH 120 would be a Techy with Solid State (probably) would have to be wired like a Mag system. This is for a HH10 in a Charger. i would think it similar except teh C120 probably uses a solenoid instead of a heavy igntion switch

Amen to that. Redsquare is the place where kids can still be kids.

Yeah, you'll find very few grownups around here. I haven't met any yet, thank goodness!

If the condenser is on the + post the engine will run like a 3 yr. old on a sugar high! (don't ask how I know this!)

The SK-486 and SB-421 were a one year only tractor, and they were both made up of "left over" parts. Not to say they weren't as good of a tractor or anything, because that is not true, they are both amazing tractors, the SK-486 meant "Special Kohler, 48" deck, 16hp" and the SB-421 meant "Special Briggs-42" deck, 11hp" I'd say you have the better of the two tractors as well! that single cylinder Kohler 16hp is well sought after. I noticed that the original owners manual isn't available here, it has not been uploaded. I would say that your tractor is most similar to the late C-160 8 speed, which would be literally almost the same exact tractor, 16hp kohler, 8 speed tranny, here is a link to that tractors owners manual, and that should help you out.

I picked this up a few weeks ago. I got the owners manuals and a copy of the sales add from when the last PO bought it. $1000 and it had 923hrs on it when bought and has 925hrs on it when i bought it so not much use by the PO it had sum issues. The front anti scalp wheels were not right and the front of the deck was out of adjustment so it would just dig into the ground when turning or on unlevel ground. Its a 2000 model no power steering unlike the 522xi but i kinda like it better i feel what the front end is doing and still is easy to turn. I have a hard time keeping a straight line with 522xi its so easy to turn and not much feed back through the steering wheel. The 60'' deck takes sum getting use too. Missing the front grill and has a busted head light lens but i do like it.

Tee nuts and studs of different lengths. Check McMasters Carr. Just measure your slot and order the one that fits. https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-table-t-slot-nuts/=17s9wyb And the clamps .https://www.mcmaster.com/#table-clamps/=17s9yjy

Wheel Horse had a habit of beefing up their roll pin connections by driving a second pin inside the first one. Impossible to drive out the two together. If you can drive the center one out the outside one will usually go easily. Garry

No adults, no - no - no. That is the sixth commandment.

Also, if you choose a bit size just under the diameter of the pin you will often find that as you approach drilling through the pin the pin might begin spinning and come out on the end of the bit due to a combination of the heat generated drilling, and the loss of material in the pin due to being drilled. Either way, I always drill a pin just undersized of the hole then take a pin punch to drive out what remains of the pin because what remains almost always comes out easily once the center of the pin has been drilled out.

Decided to add a traditional tractor exhaust/muffler tonight. I think it turned out pretty good. Used a Ford Muffler and reduced it to a 1" pipe, welded the 1" pipe to a new exhaust port flange. Amazingly, it is a lot quieter now. Did not expect that. Next, I might add some little headlights on each side of the hood. Probably need a little coil to run them. Well see what I can find on eBay.

Thank him for his service from all of us here.

Real men don't need safety shields The fan blades are pretty beat and have been straightened...Probably tried to eat the shield

Have not sources the bits or tooling yet. i do have this 20 inch drill press which I recently repaired and have operational.

Okay guys, in an attempt to go "green" in my restoration process, I have decided to to disturb as little moss possible & it shall remain in it's natural "habitat". This should help you guys sleep better tonight also...

Oh man, that was always one of my favorite MB when I was a kid, do you have the matching covered trailer(s) for it, if I remember correctly, you could hook multiples together behind it.

You may find these shots of the parts lists interesting Garry

Looks right at home there... in front of the Mrs dryer.

They all say that! Start with a clean fuel tank, new fuel line and filter, clean up the carburetor, lightly sand the points ( #60 paper) and new spark plugs and an oil change; it will probably be fine. The condenser and points should be attached to the "-" terminal of the coil and the ignition switch should go to the "+" post. For testing purposes you can run the engine without a condenser, it is there to protect the points. ,

That chunk missing out of the right rear fender... Wheel Horse used fiberglass or rotocast fenders on some models? It looks like there is enough original contour available for a straight forward dam and layup from the inside of the fender repair method there...

Thanks for the info. Those are some great looking upholstery jobs. I know it's a completely different assembly process, but if you don't mind @Lane Ranger, I'll add some pictures of the seats I have rebuilt. The seat back on my C-101 was broken off and not with the tractor, so I made a pattern from another seat and fabbed a new back. Mrs K does the sewing. The Commando 8 seat back was broken off, so I just had to weld it back to the bottom and make new cushions. I have found the back cushion with the WH Logo is usually OK, so I just add new cording and side panels.

About 20 years ago, a friend I grew up with & I stopped by my Uncle's house & this tractor ended up going home with him. He used it for his garden a couple of times but mainly his kids grew up enjoying riding it around the yard. By chance, my wife spotted him at a gas station about a month ago & he asked her what I had been up to, she mentioned the Wheel Horses & of my Uncle's passing shortly after Memorial Day last year. She said his stunned response was, "I have something that needs to go home to him". He called me the next day & we set a date for my Uncle's tractor to come home. I haven't looked her numbers up yet, but I'm pretty sure she is mid - to early sixties S14 Speedex, made by Elmer Pond's brother Harold. I'm happy to report that she has now joined her half sisters in the stable & they seem to be getting along nicely. The first pic is how she looked just after we pulled her out of the weeds.

I just bought some parts in the hope that I can piece together a tractor. I will need other parts as well, some guards and a starter /alternator. There is no model number anywhere I can find. serial numbers are present on label under the steering shaft. Does anyone have a way to ID these? The 2 kohler motors are both 8HP.

When I was still working, I had this clamp set for holding turbine blades on a 5 axis mill and coordinate measuring machine. A little pricy, but they really work well for various height work.

Save the pictures to your computer, open a new responce to your post, lower left corner you will see choose files... that will open your picture file, select the photo and double click on it and it will load below the text box, click on the "+" and it will be added to the post. http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/forum/56-finding-your-way-around-in-redsquare/

Yes - I, um, "discovered" that the pins are hardened steel Great advice - thanks everyone!

Looks good. I think you may want to consider adding a brace that would go down to the frame from just below the muffler, lot of vibrating weight on those two studs coming out of the aluminum casting.

Yeahhh After all this is the only time we allow green on our tractors!

I use 2 concrete blocks on the Agri-Fab disk I have , but at that weight level it really pushes the rear hitch cables to the limit when lifting the dumb thing - it just sticks out too far . Sarge

If you put a short slot in the blade end of the lift link , say 1" long - that will give it a certain amount of float and still allow down pressure when needed . If I can get time , I have a 5' long section of a small road grader blade here that's nearly 1.25" thick and may build a center grader out of that for the big D - but I want an acme rod adjuster for pitch or perhaps run a second hydraulic valve for that as well . It's a challenge to use a center blade and cut vee ditches and such , but it can be done albeit it takes more time . The biggest thing the original blade lacks is the ability to roll the blade angle for cutting action or leveling action IMHO . I've spent a lot of years with the Operators doing grade work and watching a good blade man do his craft is an awesome thing - but without a functional machine it's tough to duplicate on a smaller scale . I've used the old 1277 quite a lot for leveling baseball infields including building the pitcher's mound . The lime cuts easily enough but the blade roll angle is mostly designed for very light cutting and mostly just packing in the material with no real cutting edge on it . If I build one , it will use the same cutting edge I put on the D's 54" front blade - tipped back that thing will cut packed rock and hard clay quite well albeit a bit tough to control depth of cut . Need to add some real suitcase weights or something for better traction as well - it will dig some serious holes in a hurry if pushed hard . Sarge

The tank was originally on the engine, but we discovered it would fit behind the dash, so we changed it ! Much better looking !

Ed: A very good addition to this post. That two piece seat looks great. My sister is doing a project like that right now. We are trying to save a WH horsehead logo on the back of the two piece black seat and redo the vinyl on the sides.

So cutting metal without a torch or plasma cutter is a royal pita. Had some major home maintenance tasks the past couple days but I did squeeze in getting the braces fine fitted. Gonna tack weld them together and drill the pivot hole.