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Dicks Wheel horse in Towanda ,Pa had a closing auction today I managed to get some nos parts and two lighted signs Brian

Got the last 416 cleaned up but the Onan will take some time to go through. The acorn warehouse will get the full service treatment but for now I wanted to check out the hydro on it and the 520 as well. I know that the one 520 has no wiring harness and I will need to go through the 416 as well. What I needed was a self contained engine package that did not connect to the tractors fuel supply or electricals. I took a chance on a 13 horse Predator and so far I am happy with it. First pull and it fired right up. That is only the second time that happened and the last time was a Predator as well. I used a extra Onan mounting plate to attach the engine to and spaced the plate up 1 1/4" to give the same height as the Onan. It was 7" from the top of the frame rail to the crank centerline and the Pred was only 5 1/2". If you don't get the crank in the right postion the drive belt will run against it self at the tension pulley and fail. I had assumed that the Kohler on the the big ugly 520 was close to the same height and it was a full inch lower and the belt only lasted about 30 hours. I will need to diassemble the mounting sytem for paint and will try to get some pictures of the individual parts if anyone is interested.

Recently brought home a 64 lawn ranger, had a honda knock off engine on it but the hood wouldn't fit. I put a old small oil pan points style HH100 under the hood and mowed on the 2nd time out with it. IMG_0991.MOV

Nice day in Terryville Ct. To work the horses

Putting stripes on the ground so I can drive up on to the side lot . I have to move some stone also to make a pad for the RV. They earn there keep.

My WH had been sitting outside for 3-4 years with prev owner and who knows how long before that, so I started soaking the hubs and looked around for ideas on breaking them off the transaxle. I borrowed this idea from the Blizzard Tools wheel puller and decided to give it a shot. I had the angle iron, borrowed some pieces from my gear puller, and it worked like a charm! Very glad to have that problem solved without destroying the wheels.

I have only been on here a few weeks, but I can't begin to say thanks to all who have already helped me get aquainted with these tractors. So why are these tractors my therapy? Back in 2001, I was officially diagnosed with MS. It actually started long before that, but really started getting worse in 2000 when I had a rather vicious attack that did the majority of the damage that I deal with today. Lost about 20% of strength on the right side, and about 60% on the left side. Fortunately due to the meds I have been on, been pretty stable since then, and I still walk, go to work everyday, and get around pretty good all things considered. But, a lot of things I can't do, such as walk long distances, ride a bike, strenuous labor, and heat kills me. Don't get me wrong, I am not complaining, many have far worse issues to deal with than me. I accept it as part of life, and thank God I am the way that I am. I have always been a motorhead, bikes, classics and customs, restoration of antique Chris~Craft boats, 4x4's, you name it. Even ran a company for awhile designing and building turbo systems for modern Hemi's. But, that is all in the past. One of the things that I can still do, and refuse to let anyone else do, is mow the yard! (on a rider) Both here at home, and at our Church, nobody touches the mower without checking with me first. I had been looking for a 60's Sears Suburban tractor half heartedly for a while. This spring I got serious about finding one, until I ran across a Wheel Horse and was bitten by the red bug. In a month, I went from none to four! Here was something that I could work on, are classics in their own right, fills the motor head craving, and they are readily affordable. Plus, I can mow with them! So, my tractors are not only cool and collectable, but they help fill that void that my disease left me with. So not only are they my lawn tractors, but they are an awesome therapy to boot! I just finished a 2 year undergraduate course in Theology (4.2 grpt av⛪thank the Lord), so Church, building and painting guns, reloading, and my WH's keep me pretty well occupied! I am pretty anal about what I do, so I am looking forward to turning out some nice looking tractors in the future. Attached are some pics of stuff I have done in the past, and what I have to work with now. Working on a refresh of my 1276 (incorrectly marked as a C120) for the Big Show, but my basket case 854 is the one that will really get attention this fall. (Yes, I used to race offshore powerboats). Now you know a little bit about me and why I love my WH's!

Picked up quite a load from Steve @wh500special today.

Today is was a great day wheel horse wise. 1) Got to go to Danbury meet and greet and hang out with great people, talk tractors and share knowledge and ride tractors. That in itself would be a good day. 2) I had already planned on adopting one of @fireman 's resto tractors and it was one of the reasons I headed there today but a couple days ago he called and asked if I would be interested in another he was deciding to pass along. I jumped at the chance. So I snagged two very nice tractors to add to my growing addiction:-) 3) My good pal @fast88pu surprised me this morning. He did me a favor as he has a bigger welder and had agreed to weld the centers into my GT22-8 project rims as I had recently determined backspace. However he has been very busy of late and I had not expected he would prioritize the favor. I met him around 8 this morning thinking we would caravan to show and he hands me my rims! Much appreciated! As it allows me to step up the pace quite a bit now on my project. All in all it was close to a perfect day! The RJ58 is well documented by Jeff in the thread: http://www.wheelhorseforum.com/topic/7124-the-rj58-resto-has-begun/ Here the 24x12 is next to the 29x15 TRU powers that will shoe the GT22-8 for comparison

Not bad for $100. Don't know anything about it

Since I was using wheel pullers I remembered that I had broken one last fall and might as well do a weld job to repair it. I just used a couple thick washers and welded them on to the flat plat that broke allowing me to bolt the plate back on that's holds the pulling arm to the main body of the puller. Made a little DC tig weld with the Everlast AC/DC tig welder. Not the prettiest weld but it will work. I used the pulse feature at about 33% running at 90 amps. The nice thing about this unit is that I can light up an arc as low as 5 amps so if I have some hood patch work it can be done without blowing holes through the sheet metal.

I was tiling a bathroom on a hotel recently and i had a few old broken tiles left over, so i thought rather than just throw them away i would put them to good use . Here are a few pics of what i managed to conjour up , The mosaic even has some chrome wheel nuts which i took off some plumbing fittings I thought i would use the display when showing my tractors at the shows

Any fellas with comments on this model ? Might offer him $ 750.00 and see what the reaction is .....

My brother David and I were able to get to A.J.'s Garden Tractor Jamboree this year held in Oregon, Illinois. We had a great time and were able to connect with fellow Red Square Members : Stevasaurus, Terry M., Shynon (Tom Prondzinski ), and Prondszy (Mike Prondzinski ) ! It was a very wet day and yet a warm day too with all the garden tractors, attachments, old farm tools and quipment and collectors and owners from Illiinois, Kansas, Indiana, Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa and maybe a few more places.

Things change, so you never know until the last minute what's coming and what's not. Having said that, I anticipate bringing the following items for sale: 607, 401, 551, WorkHorse 700 roller, RJ hood/tank/steering, 32" snowblower, RJ rear fenders/toolbox, early metal seat (no holes), several bathtub carts, 42" snow plow for mid frame, several early mower decks, miscellaneous parts, and if I get them finished in time, 2 fully refreshed/refurbished Kohler K91T Wheel Horse engines. Added a few more items to the list. A couple of bathtub carts, a 48" deck, and another 42" snow plow. The mid-mount grader blade is not for sale.

Jim Even with my glasses I can't read the hat.Darn good eyes buddy.I have been wrenching some more on this thing trying to beat the rain.I have some more pictures of the install but not the closeups of the mounting setup yet.I got the hood mounted but what had to be done to the hood is not for the faint of heart.The headlight mount had to be removed as did part of the brace on the flywheel side.What came next will give some you pause but the side of the lower hood had to be bulged out to accommodate the air cleaner.Before any of you go Ethel, look what some idiot did to a perfectly good WH hood the bottom is really rusted badly. The engine is drilled and tapped to bolt on the pto engagement bits so that is a plus.I will get more pictures if you folks want to see them.

Anyone who is not interested in posts like this is not interested in learning! Keep the posts coming.

I have a 314-8 and it had the belt slop from the piston being to weak so I ordered the spring and got the toro belt. It was rubbing on the belt gard untill I added the spring. So what the guys are saying is the exact thing I did.

Try the clutch with the engine not running...Ignition switch in the run position. There is not much movement The disk highlighted in yellow should move towards the coil assembly (direction of arrow) only moves about an 1/8 of an inch. The gap between the yellow disk and the coil assembly when the PTO is off is called air gap. Wheel Horse doesn't much mention it in its manuals. When JD uses electric PTOs they make a big deal about adjusting the air gap....go figure.

Another five headed down the road today. And a John Deere 110 took their place. Terry's got some work ahead of him, but I think he was pleased. Thanks T-MO! steve (yes, that is an orange tractor in the background.)

Oh the vicious cycle

What are you getting? A noise you suspect is the belt rattling on the belt guard? The gas cylinder damper might have failed. They where added to prevent the belt from engaging too fast causing a wheelie. You could try adding a 108035 spring to the left side that was used before they went to the gas shock. Garry

I corrected my error on the hood length and got it welded together. Steering wheel and some other parts off. New panels made. I have my work cut out for me to use this set of fenders. But I think it is better than throwing them away. Found out why all the washers at the steering console.

I have been considering trading for a 1949 Farmall Cub. The guy wants a John Deere lawn tractor, and I have one that I might be willing to trade. I'm just ain't sure. The Cub looks like it has maybe a non-Cub front blade (though it says International on it), but no other attachments. I would like to have a fast-hitch, but prices on those seem high, as well as finding other implements might be a bit pricey also. Not having the standard category one 3 point will mean probably Cub specific implements, etc. I have other tractors to mow with, including a John Deere commercial zero turn, plus I have a front blade for a Wheel Horse with a couple of prospects to put that one on. But, my GX345 was my plow tractor, so I would have to get one of the Wheel Horses set up for that.

Today was a "What's In My Trunk" day

I didnt take any pics either. But we were interviewed for the local paper at AJ's http://www.saukvalley.com/2017/05/20/a-jamboree-of-pint-sized-power-in-oregon/aeabhyj/

Very nice working Stallion! My no name 12 hp Kohler does any task well!

Since it's a 520H, does the hydraulic lift work? (Check hydro oil to be sure its full) If not check that the pulley is turning the shaft. If it is, then there is likely internal damage and you'll have to disassemble it. If the input shaft doesn't turn, then the woodruff key on the input pulley sheered (not likely though) If the hydraulic lift works, then: With the tractor on the ground, chock the front wheels, engine running, have someone move the motion control lever forward, observe the axles (not the wheels or hubs) do they turn? If the axles turn, replace the woodruff keys, if they do not then you'll likely have to disassemble to see what is wrong

Thanks for sharing the great pics. Lane was great to meet you and your brother although cold and wet. Hoping we cross paths again someday, I am looking forward to making the trip again next year as this is a great little show it was a lot of fun. Next up see what the reporter we talked to has to say about it. Sorry I have no pics to share, didn't even think of it till we were on the road. Hope you made it out OK there were a lot being pulled out of the mud when we left.

All went well, a sneak peek at her... I'll start a different thread about her & her history & how she returned home...

If it is the seat in this photo of @Zeek's the seat was only used for two years, but there were a ton of them made and most could use a new cover. A member here had some made up a few years ago and sold out of them. I don't remember how much they went for but there would be a market for them for sure.

I ran across an old lawn mower repair shop that was selling out a few years ago and purchased a Neway valve and valve seat grinder from him. Just got done cutting new seats and valves on a K-91 I'm going through from a RJ 59 I'm restoring. Very simple and easy operation with the Neway valve seat grinder and Neway Gizmo valve face cutter. I was going to take pics to post but forgot to before I came in for the night, I'll take pics and post in the morning. I was just wondering if anyone else uses one and absolutely loves it. I thought I might post a few pics of some handy tool items I have as I use them in the restoration project just for fun. The belt disc sander is what I use to grind the end of the valves off after cutting process to adjust valve clearances and tolerances.

I had some alumiweld I had bought to try. I was able to repair the dash console. The tool box was not as bad as I first thought. It is real rough but was able to modify it with a couple lengths of square tubing for the hydraulic hoses to pass through.

Finally had a little bit of a break at work so I had time to weld together the "faux" grader blade for my Simplicity/ Allis Chalmers tractors that I started last fall. Guess you could say I did some "Reverse Engineering" using some line drawings and photos of a blade and calculation of dimensions.

TORO should have the gasket...about $5. If not, you can make one easily. Autozone and others carry gasket material. I use Kero-Pak...it is about 1' x 3' and is 1/32 thick. About $6. The gasket part # 3912 from TORO.

I use Gates green belts for deck, snow blowers etc...even hydros...but for Manual Trannies I stick with OEM..

Yes , 10/1276/1277 ect models used a hood riser . Sarge

Well I certainly don't need any more but the cuz and I couldn't pass on this mostly original 1276 . I believe the seat and three spoke steering wheel aren't correct . It did come with a snowblade , chains , and a homemade plough . The handle on the hood was free ... the owner was 98 years old and needed it to get on . Kinda feel bad for what We paid though he'd would having taken less . ! He also had manuals and a couple brochures to go along with it !!! More pics to come...she went right to the stables new mechanic for a full service . and as a bonus...

Well in early Spring I fell off the wagon and bought an RJ35. It started the terrible cycle of addiction in earnest. Once I succumbed and accepted it, I decided to go the route of "if your gonna be a bear, be a grizzly" or as my pappy used to say, if your gonna do it, do it right. With that said, within the past 2-3 months I now have 6 of the little round hoods. 2 RJ35, 2 551, an RJ58 and an RJ58 all in varying degrees of project from complete resto/rebuild to done. But I am starting to get to maximum capacity again:-)

Contact me anytime Glenn Direct email rmaynard@qis.net or call or text me 443-398-6544

Looking to buy: 520H belt guard Comfort feel 520H steering wheel (if one exists) 520 H cup holder (I'm getting old!) Either a electric start round hood or short frame square hood in either nice original or restored condition. I do not want something that needs to be torn down and repainted. Or no basket cases. Electricial issues are ok!

I had to cut the steering shaft to remove the steering wheel, now i need to source a better dash console, build a new tool box that will be modified to house the cylinder hydraulic lines, and repair the fenders. My little homemade brake is not long enough to make the belt guard so I'll have to go visit my friend at the sheet metal shop.

Sell them to me Mike and I'll paint them whatever color you like!

Two sweet machines, Aldon, electric start RJ and a C160 that starts and runs a good as it looks.... Congrats.... hope you got home safe and sound... thanks for making the trip... next time I will bring my GT14 and you bring one of yours or the GT16 we will hook them together and try to give Kyle's monster puller a run for the money...... after all back tire size to stock tires should almost equal the AGs he has currently is running! Cheers

Thanks for the ideas. I'll pull the carb tomorrow and update with any findings.

Garry

With the tank under the seat and a new empty gas line the fuel pump isn't pulling a prime. Fill the tank, remove the fuel line from the pump until gas starts to flow and put it back on.

Didn't even hesitate to climb up and over. Back side was way more steep.

Adding to this thread as I tore into the K91 I found that the flywheel had no place to pull from to utilize a wheel / pulley puller to grip to. I did not want to ply on it due to the fact that I did not want to break the aluminum housing behind it. So I had to drill into the cast iron flywheel in order to run threads into it allowing me to use a flywheel puller. So here is how I went about it utilizing the tools I have on hand with pics. Powermatic variable speed drill press Next I had to use my drill, whole, tap size chart to determine what size drill bit to use for a 1/4-20 thread Found I needed a #7 tap drill bit After setting my depth and drilling the flywheel I needed a 1/4"-20 tap Here is a pic of the flywheel after drilling and taping to 1/4-20