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I knocked down some weeds this past weekend and Pop had to have some seat time, he had a great time and I got a break to stretch

Just picked up my new deck: Complete with Mule drive and belt! Now to pretty up the 416 so I can put 'er on!

Those box store machines must be a lot better that we have been giving them credit. Today, I saw 5 store employees and the purchaser (6 total people) pushing one up a ramp into a pick-up truck! Maybe I am just stronger than they are! Heck...If I bought a new machine, I would expect it to run and drive it up the ramps!

First I would like to thank all who have been following and commenting on this post. I hope I kept it interesting for you. Four months worth of weekends in the garage have finally produced a finished tractor. I've often wondered during this project if I was restoring or building from scratch. I did manage to retain some key original parts so I guess it would still be considered a restore. In my research I have only found 6 of these tractors, including mine. I'm sure that there are more out there, I just haven't located them. Some pics of my fully restored McLean 4 wheel tractor. Earlier in this post some one requested a video of it running & driving. Well..... I'm no film artist but I gave it a shot. Thank you again for following along.

here's what my road trip brought me back today a pretty good conditioned 953 has brand new rear tires tin is in pretty good shape...........will have to go over it so far the steering is loose and noticed bolts that need to be retightened gas line will need to be changed new battery installed also do to my size of me will really have to modify the seat way back in tool spot area some how LOL but all in all i'm a 953 clubber now also got these attachments

Chances are none of them knew enough to take it out of gear! In a few years when it quits it will take six sanitation workers to haul it off.

You've probably read about the nasty ransom virus spreading around the world. This is a reminder to be sure you keep current with your updates and backup your files. Nothing worse then losing a bunch of pictures, data etc when it can be avoided.

While taking the family out for Mother's Day lunch I spied this ,sitting in front of a L&G small engines shop (of course I got the you're crazy and I need help bit, because it was close to a 100 yards across the road at 35+ MPH that I spotted it amongst all the other lawn equipment) D series with an Ark 550 loader, maybe later this week after I get off work I'll go back a get a little bit more info on this WH, Jeff.

I think it's used to hold an older sink to the wall.

Looking at your tank i am reminded some people (most actually) should not be allowed to use Permatex. They are of the More is better school.

4hrs down, 4hrs back, makes for a long day. But was well worth it. Was driving to SE Ohio today (can't get there from here) to pick up an 857 from the fellow I bought my 1276 from 2 weeks ago. Low and behold, last night [a currently unidentified early 60's model, possibly a 754 best guess right now] tractor popped up on CL, exactly 30 mins from where I was going! Made quick arrangements to meet the owner at his job (he had to work today so he took it with him), to look it over. Needless to say it went right on the trailer! Looks to be pretty much all there, metal is in nice shape and steering is tight. Tranny shifts and the brake works. No deck. Has a 1961 hood installed, and a blown 7hp Tecumseh in it, but it came with a running K161T which I figure I can probably convert over if I can find the parts. This one will be long term project after I finish my 1276 that is in pieces right now! The 857 is a good running tractor, pretty much all intact except for steering wheel. Have the original cushion which a friend of mine who does marine upholstery can use to duplicate it. Runs good, cuts good, looks good, but deck is a little noisey, have to look into that. It also came with a snow plow and rear brackets. Paid $450 for the 857 with deck and plow. Paid $280 for the 754 (?) All in all, a good day!

Hello, all. Well, I've been on and off here for the last few years. I'd sold off most of my tractors, yes, all 23 of them. Well, for various reasons I replaced most of my tractor fleet with antique snowmobiles, and now most of those except for a few are gone. Well, the only true antique tractor I still had was a very abused Sears Custom XL-10, and my '68 Electro that will never leave my house. Well, neither of those do much work anymore as the Sears needs a ton of work, and the Electro has no hitch, deck, or basically an engine as it's so clapped out. (1qt oil per 30 minutes, I haven't put gas in it for 3 years because all it does is idle around the yard for pictures.) So, after a neighbors 80's TroyBilt finally quit, I decided perhaps it would be fun to have another old tractor working. (All my work is now done on a 1984 JD-116 with a boxer twin) So I set out looking for some parts for the Electro on CL. I stumbled upon a '67 1077, listed as a 1953 model, with the ad reading "Make an offer, doesn't run, no compression, parts only." I just wrote a reply saying, not to put word in his mouth, but it was a '67, and I asked what was wrong. Guy came back thanking me, and said he had someone coming last friday for it for 'way less then he thought it was worth'. I replied saying the body and deck looked decent, I'd say 2-300 all day with todays pricing around here. He told me it was mine for 100. So, I went down on Friday and got her. He was the second owner, he had all the paperwork for it, and it's in surprisingly good shape. He again said it was blown up and no good. Got it home and couldn't remember where the release for the hydro was. I figured I'd just throw a battery in it, and toll it on the starter backwards. Iw as just parts, after all? Well while I was there for laughs, I'd put some gas in it.. who would have thought it would fire right up and run perfectly? So, well, here she is! The tranny is having some issues I'll digress into later, but the deck is perfect, just faded. Everything, even the generator and lighter work! Tires are original and hold air. I can't believe it! So, I guess I'm back into the hobby!

Nice pictures and nice videos. You have some awesome skills that most of us wished we had, plus you have some dedication and commitment that most of should have. Great job, just an amazing restoration.

I want/need to change the front tires on my D-160, they were cobbled up from wheels/tires off an old Sears lawn tractor and are very dry rotted, and too small also. Since I am going to replace them I would like to go up to 10" tires. Seems as tho some one here on the forum did this but of course I cant find it with search! What I would like to find would be a tire and rim together, this way seems to lower the cost somewhat but limits selection. This D has 3/4" spindles and I can make hubs easily in my shop either in 4 or 5 bolt pattern. In prowling the web I found this set-up in trailer tires/rims but the tire is in "auto" appearance and I would prefer turf tread type tread, or the 4 wheeler cart type tread. So .... any body recall seeing a 10" tire/rim combo like this? I realize I may have to get tire and rim separately ----- This old guy is my go to for the dirty work around here, despite its appearance its in very good condition -- that thing is like a Timex watch - "takes a liking and keeps on ticking"

Check this out...AJ's Garden Tractor Jamboree from 2016.

I just bought this a 90 special. It needs front tires but I cannot find the original ones like are on it anywhere. Anyone know where I can find some? Thanks in advance!

Plus corporate policy for sure!

My guess would be no oil , no gas , stuck in gear, Larry Moe and Curly enterprises.

Looks like good seat time for Pop. Has he done this before?

JB weld it

The hood mounted to the bumper / tank.

Racinbob, looks like it is a two piece tank, bolts on bottom and sealer around edges.

The id on my K91 was spot on for a 1/2: NPT. It actually taps very easily. I ran a taper tap in as far as I could then followed up with a bottom tap to remove some of the taper allowing the the threads to run in deeper. I immediately went to 3/4". As Achto said, the little bit of restriction won't hurt a thing. BTW, make sure you stuff a oily rag in the port first. It will help keep the chips out and drag some with it when you pull it out. Make sure every chip is cleaned out.

Some have tapped the hole to 1/2"npt then used a bell adapter to go to 3/4"npt. The restriction of the 1/2"npt threads will not hamper the performance of the engine.

I thought they were CSX rails Glenn

Today i picked up the 69 charger 12. had to use truck to pull it out of ruts. then winch it up onto the trailer. free rolling valve is froze so no free roll. got it home. carefully unloaded it and thought well crap. so i decided to get it running in the front yard. 30 minutes later after i replaced fuel line cleaned carb it fired right up. no smoke. but umm i hope to free up the throttle. ran it at just above idle to get it to shed. i pulled ags off and put turfs on it.

Looks & sounds perfect to me. Really is very nicely done.

why buy anything OTHER than an OEM filter.... here it is. available on ebay lots of places... 79-5270 is the toro filter....for hydros.

Shouldn`t tip with Norfolk & Western in the ballast box...

Just wanted to give a public thank you to Lincoln at A-Z Tractors for sending me some quality used parts for my 1994 314h and 1991 520h! Parts list... 520h- Paring brake lever, hood latch, air cleaner sensor and rear 1-1/8" hub 314h- Fuel tank, 2x headlights, steering collar and steering wheel All parts arrived with quick shipping as well as packed very well and all were quality products! Thanks a bunch sir! Will be coming to you for future purchases as well. God Bless you and yours!

hi, I must have the wheel horse bug now, but see a wheel horse 67 not sure what it is. Need output bearing the external one anyway. Are the parts for the older models still available? The asking is 225 for it. It did run when parked 5 years ago. extra parts for other WH As a side note the one I just bought got home, so far so good. Wife was away seeing family she didn't know I bought it. Anyway she came and I showed her how to run it and she was out there just going to town cutting the grass with a big smile. Also the 314 h people here use the ethanol gas at all? Just use the premium without ethanol? the 67 model would a person have to use lead added supplement to the gas for the engine or does the engine have hardened valve seats. Thanks Tim O

How you doing Bert, haven't heard much from you lately?

They could be Atlantic Coast Line ( I think that the correct name). which makes them older than me .

Could be Chessie , they looked older than the ......, Jeff.

You could use a steel electrical conduit lock nut to tighten the elbow in place. Buy it at an electrical supply house, not the bog box junk. https://www.mscdirect.com/browse/tnpla/54061304?cid=ppc-google-New+-+Lighting+%26+Electrical+-+PLA_sk69grBlc___164124449207_c_S&mkwid=sk69grBlc|dc&pcrid=1641244

Yup, you're absolutely right. Now I'm thinking it was a leftover decal Many years ago I had an 854. What a great tractor. I had seepage issues with the tank and considered replacing it with an older one piece. But I ended up replacing the gasket and using a liquid tank sealant I found at a motorcycle shop that you put in the tank and spread it around.. Of course I only had to slosh it around the bottom edge. That worked perfectly for many, many years.

Driving with the tow valve partly opened didn't hurt anything. Most likely reason dirt and/or metal chips from improper use of the parking brake has damaged the slippers, valve, plates etc. A piston to piston Sundstrand unit from some C series would fit. I have 4 Charger/Electros all hydro gears. Haven't had any issues with any of them. My D200 with a piston to piston lots of issues. Used units i purchased (all from "Good Working Tractors") all had issues some worse than the unit I was trying to replace. I overhauled it my self. There are several threads here about overhauling Sundstrand units. You should down load the Sundstrand hydro manual from the manual section here to see what is involved. One final note. the gear motor in the hydro gear unit was not considered to be rebuildable. it was repair by replacement. You could over haul the pump part but if it was significantly damaged the gear part maybe also.

A warm fluid/filter change can't hurt. Have you done a neutral adjustment?? covered in the operators manula shown at Fig 2. I am afraid however your issues may be more serious. Hydros do not do well with sludge. it may have damaged the slippers and valve plates as well a possibly the hydro motor gears. One other less negative thought. The sludge may have stopped up the suction screen (#38 in the tranny parts page) thus starving the pump for fluid. You have to pull the hydro unit to get to it.

You could go the flange route or tap it with a 1/2" N.P.T . If if your not comfortable with this a good machine shop could do this and even open it up to 3/4" like the original blocks had . Use the search box ... try pipe tap exhaust port . Good luck !

I make my own chili with beans and a lot of heat.

See.. nobody listens to me anymore.

We use more than one kind of bean in our "whatever this is chili" Homemade.

When it comes to filters there are a lot of threads here about them (and strong opinions). i am only passing on what seems to be a majority view. Anti drain back and bypass are 2 different things.

Father's Day is coming up. Nice Horse, Dad.

Not saying this is a better solution to the pullers mentioned but I don't currently have one of those so it's the backyard mechanic way for me. I've had pretty good luck (After thoroughly soaking of coarse) by using a piece of pipe to knock the pulley towards the block (Assuming it's not already on as far as it will go). Usually a couple quick shocks with a hammer but nothing drastic enough to break something. This may seem counter productive since you're trying to get it off but once that bond is broken, they do come off easier. Some have to be knocked on then pulled a little, then back on, then pulled and so on until it comes off. Spray oil on there each time it moves and wipe the shaft clean of the rust. It's also good idea to completely remove all the set screws and spay whatever you're using in those holes too. That way it gets right to the shaft deeper in there. That might be when you find the second set screw under the first one once in a while!

Bearing /Flange Puller??? Heat the pulley if you go that way. Try standing engine so pulley faces up. Hit it with Kroil and wait a day....

Well look what hopped on my trailer yesterday! I went to an estate sale of a gentleman who recently passed away and I knew he collected old garden tractors. His son in law texted me some pictures of what was there and I picked this out right away so I went to the sale and got a great deal on it! It is a bit of a project, the carb, fuel pump, and coil are all missing, but the engine is free so it will run. It's hard to kill a kohler! Probably gonna take the snow blower off and sell it since I don't really need it. I am really excited to add a 1045 to the collection!

Picked this up yesterday after a long days ride. I'm going to need to see Terry for the correct stickers though. Left the house at 6:00am and returned at 11:45pm, almost an 18 hour ride. I think it was worth it though. Looks to be all original except the stickers and the front tires. You don't find these to often and almost never with an unbroken dash plate that's original. She runs great, but I'm finding it hard to get my motor running this morning after that trip.

A-Z will also be delivering to the Big Show next month, though I don't know if he has any more room on the truck after filling my order!